enyap wrote

For those having errors in your idrive, have you simply tried switching off voltage monitoring?

If you have BimmerCode, it’s a simple process.

Hi,

where can I find the settings? In expert mode?

Greets

Detailers Domain wrote

Got the Bay Optics ones from LightWerkz

No codes, 2-3 hour installation, the long part is getting the lights out.

Yellow DRL's at LightWerkz

Would you be able to do these for others?

Seeking some help as I know many here have removed the bumper themselves.

I hired a shop to do mine a couple months ago and unfortunately only now notice some panel gap that may not normal between the bumper and fender.

Pics below are from perspective of standing right infront of the mirror and looking down towards the front. I was wondering if you guys are seeing similar panel gaps for the front bumper?

And for those who took it off and put it back on, any idea on what could be causing this gap if it is not normal? When I press against the panel it feels like it has absolutely no room to reduce the gap.

For my 24 X3 m40i, would I be able to do this without removing bumper/light if I have low profile torx by removing the fender liner?

So first issue, originally installed 5/11/23. Got light on the dash today and in idrive, unlocking the DRLs light up but quickly fade, blinkers work, headlights work. Odd thing is DRLs in right side do not stay on by themselves like normal operation. Regardless of auto is selected or parking lights are selected. But when headlights are turned to the ON position all lights work, DRLs, low beam, high beam and blinkers. Very odd, I contacted ice driver and they said they would warranty it so I’ll report back once I receive.

Rhdlife wrote

So first issue, originally installed 5/11/23. Got light on the dash today and in idrive, unlocking the DRLs light up but quickly fade, blinkers work, headlights work. Odd thing is DRLs in right side do not stay on by themselves like normal operation. Regardless of auto is selected or parking lights are selected. But when headlights are turned to the ON position all lights work, DRLs, low beam, high beam and blinkers. Very odd, I contacted ice driver and they said they would warranty it so I’ll report back once I receive.

Update… pulled the upper module, turns out one of the LEDs for the DRL fell off of the board and has been burned into the tube. I removed what I could and replaced board and everything works like it should with no errors and I don’t notice any light output difference. Definitely concerned about the longevity of the tube though. I did use the thermal paste glue blue I don’t think it was as good as factory.

Warning for LCI people: This is not an Easy DIY to do it correctly if you did not purchase bulb with the heatsink already on it. There are too many risks involved, this makes it not a basic mod but quickly can turn into a nightmare situation if you mess up.

1. Your bulbs are friction rivet mounted to the heatsink, you will need to drill out the rivets or pry out the oem bulbs which risks the board bending and breaking. Please purchase bulbs with heatsinks already. If you are prying, note the rivet areas will stretch and crack the board. Make sure to drill out if you are planning to reuse the heatsink and OEM bulb in the future.

If you want to pry the board off, use two old credit cards and wedge between the heatsink and board and shove a screw driver in between. Please note: This will break and crack the board off, not recommended.

2. You absolutely cannot do this with the bumper on the car, you must remove the headlights to do them correctly and access two of the boards. Can't believe people are using the Dremel to avoid this; just buy some extra bumper plastic rivets and take it off and do it right...

3. Do not use thermal tape. Please use industrial high strength thermal epoxy glue such as 8329TFF adhesive and let the adhesive cure and set for few hours. If you tug it after few hours you will notice it's not going to come off unless you pry it off.

Heat is what kills the LED, ones from Bayoptik, IND and/or EAS looks exactly like the one we received from a Chinese supplier at half the cost. Mine look to be metal plated like the newer revisions most vendors are selling.

This quickly became a more hands-on project due to modifications needed, would not recommend to be honest but it is a pretty good mod. Just please buy the ones with heatsink already on them and you can avoid all the drilling out and adhesive part.

Rhdlife wrote

Update… pulled the upper module, turns out one of the LEDs for the DRL fell off of the board and has been burned into the tube. I removed what I could and replaced board and everything works like it should with no errors and I don’t notice any light output difference. Definitely concerned about the longevity of the tube though. I did use the thermal paste glue blue I don’t think it was as good as factory.

Thats wild, it got so hot it melted all the solder holding some of the other SMD's on the board too.

eg80sc wrote

Can't believe people are using the Dremel to avoid this

Well believe it cuz it happens . Way faster and easier than the 1000 step process you and others are going through . I actually can't believe anyone would rather disassemble the whole front of the vehicle to change some light colors

If I didn't come up with the Dremel method myself , I would never have installed the DRLs .

bad430benz wrote

If I didn't come up with the Dremel method myself ,

What exactly in this "Dremel method"?

dinan5m3 wrote

What exactly in this "Dremel method"?

Using a Dremel on the plastic light housings to make enough room to get the DRLs out without removing bumpers or lights .

bad430benz wrote

Well believe it cuz it happens . Way faster and easier than the 1000 step process you and others are going through . I actually can't believe anyone would rather disassemble the whole front of the vehicle to change some light colors

If I didn't come up with the Dremel method myself , I would never have installed the DRLs .

I can respect your decision, I just don't have the heart to dremel a brand new car

Has anyone here purchased the chips already attached to new heatsinks? If so, where can this setup be purchased?

Silence about the chips attached to the heatsinks?? I saw ali express has the chips for pre-LCI X3M's for $50 per set. Seems pretty cheap. Anybody try these things? The yellow DRL's seem pretty popular with the Florida BMW crowd.

NevadaK wrote

Silence about the chips attached to the heatsinks?? I saw ali express has the chips for pre-LCI X3M's for $50 per set. Seems pretty cheap. Anybody try these things? The yellow DRL's seem pretty popular with the Florida BMW crowd.

These are on eBay. No idea about the quality.

///M-Life wrote

So the inner DRL can be accessed just by lifting the hood and removing some plastic covers (10 min job). However The outer DRL you need to lift the car, remove wheel, wheel liner, partially remove the bumper and move the headlight in order to get to the other module.

Just to clarify, for pre-lci OR lci x3m, there are 2 drls modules per side?
When I open the hood, i can see 1 heatsink/module. Is the other one hidden under removal panel trims?

I have one driver side inner drl light out. If I replace this module, to a yellow for example, it will only show 1 ring yellow not 2 correct?

Is this job really 10 minutes? I'm also reading, that you would need to dremel both sides part of the headlight to get more space if you dont want to remove the bumper a bit so the headlight can move a bit.

135i08yes wrote

Just to clarify, for pre-lci OR lci x3m, there are 2 drls modules per side?
When I open the hood, i can see 1 heatsink/module. Is the other one hidden under removal panel trims?

I have one driver side inner drl light out. If I replace this module, to a yellow for example, it will only show 1 ring yellow not 2 correct?

Is this job really 10 minutes? I'm also reading, that you would need to dremel both sides part of the headlight to get more space if you dont want to remove the bumper a bit so the headlight can move a bit.

I just did mine. The LCI has two modules per side. You can't see the outer ones very easily, but the inners are a piece of cake.

On the LCI, you don't need to dremel anything. Take your time and remove the bumper and headlight

Dixie21 wrote

I just did mine. The LCI has two modules per side. You can't see the outer ones very easily, but the inners are a piece of cake.

On the LCI, you don't need to dremel anything. Take your time and remove the bumper and headlight

I don't think you read it correctly . You don't need to dremel anything if you want to disassemble the whole front end to change some colored lights ( this goes for pre-LCI or LCI ) . I chose to dremel off some unusable plastic to change the same modules you did . The difference is it took me a few minutes to get the same result you did . I'm not knocking anyone for doing it the long way . I am just merely stating that if I wanted to spend hours or days doing a job , it wouldn't have been for changing light color .

No issue or errors with my yellow DRL’s from MAD-US.

Pre-LCI, and I did not remove the bumper for install. Loosen both of the bottom headlight bolts, and remove the top side’s bolts and the whole headlight can be (carefully) pulled forward

The bracing between the core support and the fender is held on with four 10mm bolts that needs to be removed. Its just enough space to complete the install

FlowState wrote

No issue or errors with my yellow DRL’s from MAD-US.

Pre-LCI, and I did not remove the bumper for install. Loosen both of the bottom headlight bolts, and remove the top side’s bolts and the whole headlight can be (carefully) pulled forward

The bracing between the core support and the fender is held on with four 10mm bolts that needs to be removed. Its just enough space to complete the install

The MADs are arriving Friday. After removimg the wheel, can you remove the bottom headlight bolts with extensions and swivel adapters through the fender well panel door above the cooler or do you have to remove the entire liner?

akakrill wrote

The MADs are arriving Friday. After removimg the wheel, can you remove the bottom headlight bolts with extensions and swivel adapters through the fender well panel door above the cooler or do you have to remove the entire liner?

You can use just an extension through the fender well door to get to both of the lower headlight bolts. They don’t need to be fully removed. Just loosened and backed out a bit.

If you haven’t already, plan on getting the shorty 1/4” ratchet to get the screws for the modules out.

https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-compact-socket-and-bit-set-52-piece-70695.html

FlowState wrote

You can use just an extension through the fender well door to get to both of the lower headlight bolts. They don’t need to be fully removed. Just loosened and backed out a bit.

If you haven’t already, plan on getting the shorty 1/4” ratchet to get the screws for the modules out.

https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-compact-socket-and-bit-set-52-piece-70695.html

or this.........

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-right-angle-screwdriver-92630.html?hftm_sc=417&hftm_source=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21901739207&campaignid=21901739207&utm_content=171677808942&adsetid=171677808942&product=92630&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21901739207&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4drUT55cV27th0_MX_El9BsE&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmunNBhDbARIsAOndKpm1V1tH4wa_44XkGj7szlBDOqnZfq2aL34S9t2maLtg7bBBFzyJETsaAojeEALw_wcB