Before installation, one would need a 8mm and 10mm spanner or wrench to take down the RAM amp. I don’t want to accidently drop the RAM amp and the back panel while working on the back panel. Disconnecting the cables are not to difficult, just take a closer look at the cables you will find the locking tab that need to be pressed before unplugging. The main cable is not hard to take apart if you find the leveler on the connector and move it towards the unit, that will release the connector and the RAM unit.
The installation is the part require a bit of DIY skill. Originally I thought I could find holes on the back panel that fits the Up 8DSP unit, but I can’t seem to find more than 2 holes that will fit nicely. So I end up marking the hole on the back panel and drill it though, and yes… at one point I drilled the wrong hole, so I had to drill another correct hole. Lucky that the back panel is made of aluminum which makes the drilling an easy job. I only did 4 holes instead of 6, and hope it holds the unit. I’ll check back later and add the other two screws if it ever gets loose.
After securing the unit on to the back panel, I fit it back to the car and start connecting the cable. I first connect the cable to the Up 8DSP unit then connect the RAM unit and the original cable. Then I connect the other cables back to the RAM amp. The last step is to connect the +12V wire to the battery and the power adaptor. If one purchase the same power cable set as mine, do check the fuse that’s already installed on the line. The one on mine was a 20A fuse, which is too small for the Up 8DSP unit. On the manual, it required a 40A fuse on the line, so I removed the original fuse and swap with another 40A that come with the kit. Finally connect the -ve wire to the chassis and the power adaptor, then plug it in to get everything started.
