I decided to see how my air filter is doing. I live in a mildly dusty area, and the car has 13k miles....yes I know BMW does this as part of their maintenance plan.
Just wanted to see how the filter looked. With the correct tools it's pretty easy.

Well done!

Great job on the video.

Awesome video. Should also make one for the cabin air filter as theres no videos out on that yet.

Here it is on one page >

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/g01-x3-m40i-sav/repair-manuals/13-fuel-preparation-control/13-72-air-filter/1VnbzXy892

dkreidel wrote

Here it is on one page >

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/g01-x3-m40i-sav/repair-manuals/13-fuel-preparation-control/13-72-air-filter/1VnbzXy892

Excellent additional info! Thanks for adding.

Nice video..

..but making it harder than it is. No need to remove airbox, just the Torx Screws - though you need a lengthy Torx to hit a couple of them. Take me just a couple minutes.

Notes: You do loosen and swing cross-member out of the way (10mm). No need to remove anything else. Lid of airbox comes off fairly easily when torx screws removed.

sinbad4 wrote

Nice video..

..but making it harder than it is. No need to remove airbox, just the Torx Screws - though you need a lengthy Torx to hit a couple of them. Take me just a couple minutes.

Notes: You do loosen and swing cross-member out of the way (10mm). No need to remove anything else. Lid of airbox comes off fairly easily when torx screws removed.

That's what I was thinking, Its a nice video but I changed my air filter without removing the brace bar and just undoing the lid. You can spin the lid around under the brace bar then lift the lid out.

Hellish amount of work! Thanks for that. Oil filter cartridge not the easiest either...

Dandle wrote

That's what I was thinking, Its a nice video but I changed my air filter without removing the brace bar and just undoing the lid. You can spin the lid around under the brace bar then lift the lid out.

I'm a little OCD. After the video I actually cleaned the area under the airbox...lol! Taking the six T25 torx out, then sliding the the top out is probably easier.
I was in such a habit of doing it this way. On my previous M5 one of the torx was hidden which made it easier to pull the complete boxes out.
Thanks for the feedback...I'll have to make sure I'm using the easiest method next time:thumbsup:

Dandle wrote

That's what I was thinking, Its a nice video but I changed my air filter without removing the brace bar and just undoing the lid. You can spin the lid around under the brace bar then lift the lid out.

I am attempting to change the air filter without removing the brace bar as well but can't seem to figure out how to remove the lid. I had the airflow sensor unplugged and the torx screws loosened but the lid just didn't seem to budge. Are the screws supposed to be completely removed?

sinbad4 wrote

Nice video..

..but making it harder than it is. No need to remove airbox, just the Torx Screws - though you need a lengthy Torx to hit a couple of them. Take me just a couple minutes.

Notes: You do loosen and swing cross-member out of the way (10mm). No need to remove anything else. Lid of airbox comes off fairly easily when torx screws removed.

Exactly how I did it.

backstabber wrote

I am attempting to change the air filter without removing the brace bar as well but can't seem to figure out how to remove the lid. I had the airflow sensor unplugged and the torx screws loosened but the lid just didn't seem to budge. Are the screws supposed to be completely removed?

I can’t remember now. I know I didn’t even have to loosen the cross bar though once the lid was free it could be spun out of the way, inder the crossbar.

i took off the cross bars

backstabber wrote

I am attempting to change the air filter without removing the brace bar as well but can't seem to figure out how to remove the lid. I had the airflow sensor unplugged and the torx screws loosened but the lid just didn't seem to budge. Are the screws supposed to be completely removed?

(Answering two years later for possible future viewers):
Make sure you also loosened the big hose clamp securing the round output at the end of the lid; I believe this step is not shown in the video, although it was clearly done so the filter box could be taken out.

Just got done doing this without removing or loosening the brace. Reasons why: didn't want to reuse the bolts, didn't really want to buy new ones either, didn't want to procure a new socket to deal with the E14 one, didn't want to rent a torque wrench, etc.

For reference, the part number for the E14 bolt is 51716966566 and it's only a few bucks. I was not able to get a part number for the other bolt and neither was the guy at the parts counter. He said he would email it to me.

Well here is my advice if you choose to do it this way.

1. Disconnect the MAF sensor.
   
2. *Fully* remove all the T25 screws. The top of the airbox is made in such a way that they won't pop out even when fully loosened from the bottom of the airbox. However, they will greatly impede maneuverability of the top of the airbox and you're definitely going to need it. After it's fully loose from the bottom part, you have to keep unscrewing them so they unthread from the top of the cover.
   
3. Fully loosen the hose clamp mentioned in the comment above.
   
   
   
4. Remove the T20 screw (approximately orange arrow) that attaches the airbox to the part with the purple arrow. This part readily moves about so having it detached from the airbox will give you more precious wiggle room.
   
5. At this point unless I forgot something, the top of the airbox should be completely free. That doesn't mean you'll be able to move it around, as there's hardly any clearance. First you should get it free from the big hose (clamp you loosened).
   
6. Imagine you're doing a 300 point turn like Austin Powers with the top of the airbox. Wiggle it clockwise until it's in a position as below. You're going to want to be careful about or cover up some wires that are to the left under the white rag in the image, as the airbox lid can chew them up if you rub it there forcefully.
   
   
   
7. Once it's rotated to that position, there is once specific way in which you can pull it out of the car. Just try and try different ways until you get it. The most I had to do was gently push down by the wiper fluid cap so one of the T25 screw hole protrusions could slide out.
   

Good luck!

Taking out the entire airbox just to change the filter is very unnecessary. All I did was move the strut brace out of the way, remove the torx screws, then lift up the lid just enough to extract the air filter and then slide a new one in. Took <10 min.

I think this was the video I referenced:
As for the strut brace bolts, I'm not sure if those are even TTY. If not, it's completely fine to reuse them. And even if they are, this strut brace is not what I consider a critical safety component so the unlikely event of failure there would have minimal consequence.

Holy PITA! How can removing a engine filter and cabin filter be such a pain. Literally all my previous vehicles have full access to both, and takes me less than 10 minutes to change both.

2024BMWm40i wrote

Holy PITA! How can removing a engine filter and cabin filter be such a pain. Literally all my previous vehicles have full access to both, and takes me less than 10 minutes to change both.

don't question the GeRmAn EnG1nE3R1nG

bayarea3 wrote

Just got done doing this without removing or loosening the brace. Reasons why: didn't want to reuse the bolts, didn't really want to buy new ones either, didn't want to procure a new socket to deal with the E14 one, didn't want to rent a torque wrench, etc.

For reference, the part number for the E14 bolt is 51716966566 and it's only a few bucks. I was not able to get a part number for the other bolt and neither was the guy at the parts counter. He said he would email it to me.

Well here is my advice if you choose to do it this way.

1. Disconnect the MAF sensor.
   
2. *Fully* remove all the T25 screws. The top of the airbox is made in such a way that they won't pop out even when fully loosened from the bottom of the airbox. However, they will greatly impede maneuverability of the top of the airbox and you're definitely going to need it. After it's fully loose from the bottom part, you have to keep unscrewing them so they unthread from the top of the cover.
   
3. Fully loosen the hose clamp mentioned in the comment above.
   
   
   
4. Remove the T20 screw (approximately orange arrow) that attaches the airbox to the part with the purple arrow. This part readily moves about so having it detached from the airbox will give you more precious wiggle room.
   
5. At this point unless I forgot something, the top of the airbox should be completely free. That doesn't mean you'll be able to move it around, as there's hardly any clearance. First you should get it free from the big hose (clamp you loosened).
   
6. Imagine you're doing a 300 point turn like Austin Powers with the top of the airbox. Wiggle it clockwise until it's in a position as below. You're going to want to be careful about or cover up some wires that are to the left under the white rag in the image, as the airbox lid can chew them up if you rub it there forcefully.
   
   
   
7. Once it's rotated to that position, there is once specific way in which you can pull it out of the car. Just try and try different ways until you get it. The most I had to do was gently push down by the wiper fluid cap so one of the T25 screw hole protrusions could slide out.
   

Good luck!

Why does the E14 bolt need to be replaced and cannot be re-used? Is there an official documentation of replacing the bolt and cannot be re-used? Seems fine if the bolt is re-torqued.

Umm just remove the brace it’s two bolts and they are very easy to get off, I’ve reused the bolts 40+ times now and not a single issue I’ve also never torqued them down I just hit it with the impact and when I hear the click it’s good. As far as the box yeah that thing is a pain but just take the brace off and save your self the trouble. You don’t even need a torque wrench just tighten as much as you can. And if you own a bmw you should have a E torx bit set here is the one I recommend.

EMENTOL 25PCS Torx Bit Socket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KG1TLFQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

bbb83 wrote

don't question the GeRmAn EnG1nE3R1nG

Excellent advice, otherwise you will deal with Sgt. Schultz: