Double check that they have an EQ "tune" for the G01 cabin. Last I checked, they did not, but that was a couple months ago and it's new.

https://www.bavsound.com/pages/revenant-pro-amplifier
or
https://www.bavsound.com/pages/bmw-amplifier-upgrade

Alias1431 wrote

Double check that they have an EQ "tune" for the G01 cabin. Last I checked, they did not, but that was a couple months ago and it's new.

Alas I decided to stick with what's been available and known to work... But I changed it up on the sub just to try something new. So I ordered these:

MATCH UP 7BMW
Rockford Fosgate Punch P300X1
Kicker 48TCWRT102

Obviously the Kicker will be an experiment, based on my measurements it *should* fit. Not sure I'll like the quality of it vs JL. But it should allow ported box sound in theory while being tiny. I can always swap the box out.

Can't wait to play...

Let us know!

Alias1431 wrote

Let us know!

Argh, the depth is just about 1/8” too much I think. And it rests right on the sub surround. (I was hoping it would rest on the edge of the box, I could live with that.) It’ll close, but I’m gonna guess that will rattle like nothing else. Going to have to return and instead I'll try the Kicker 48CVTDF122. Which honestly might be nicer and takes up the entire cut out space...

And now I’ve got the replacement 48CVTDF122. Fits perfectly, dunno on sound yet. Finally had a few moments to install the Match Up 7BMW. Running the example from Tronner in this thread on page 4. (Getting close). Very nice sounding, had to remember to re-equalize my headunit to utilize the tuning here. Hopefully I can install my amp and try the sub tomorrow. Anyone find a way to use the WiFi connection for the pc to tune?

I should add; the new unit I got has an adapted harness from the factory that fit perfectly with no changes. However the bracket plate still required some tweaking to make it grab the rails and mount up. Quite a hassle.

So, I installed the Rockford Fosgate amp today. Just like the many other pictures in this thread and others. Imagine my surprise when I go to put on the side panel cover and find it doesn’t fit! I swear I haven’t read anyone else complaining about this issue... What did everyone else do to get it covered up? Make a custom side panel? Or maybe not all years came with an extended pocket in that panel?

Worried at all about it overheating in there?

Alias1431 wrote

Worried at all about it overheating in there?

I know RF amps have a thermal shutdown so not too worried. And I will likely drive it very low compared to some users. But I do want to know how people have closed up this panel with a amp in place. Short of rigging a custom cut panel I don’t see how it’s possible. Do you have a similar setup?

No, but the engineer in me would want to rig up a fan in there or something.

Alias1431 wrote

No, but the engineer in me would want to rig up a fan in there or something.

I imagine if needed you could setup a relay to switch the 12v on via the same remote signal used for the amp to power a pc cooling fan... maybe I’ll design that if can figure out how to finish this first part of the install. Then monitor temps to see if it’s needed.

Hi all, just picked up a 2021 m40i with the HiFi system and have some dumb questions to ask the experts

- I've noticed a lot on this forum that people recommend the Match Up7 amp. I'm sure there are specific reasons for this, but what are they? Is it just because it's plug and play with the pin connectors, or is the Match Up7 hyper-specifically designed to function exactly the same but just a stronger amplifier?

- Are there any comprehensive wiring diagrams that have been made that show each lead's voltage and current as a follow-up for the above question?

It's been since 2010 since I've done audio overhauls and it was incredibly easier back in the day lol. So what's stopping me from just buying any amplifier, connecting the necessary leads and then just carrying on and treating it like a normal audio upgrade?

foglem wrote

So, I installed the Rockford Fosgate amp today. Just like the many other pictures in this thread and others. Imagine my surprise when I go to put on the side panel cover and find it doesn’t fit! I swear I haven’t read anyone else complaining about this issue... What did everyone else do to get it covered up? Make a custom side panel? Or maybe not all years came with an extended pocket in that panel?

I have a audiocontrol lc1.1500 mounted behind the bracket where the factory amp mounts. No overheating issues since installed over a year ago.

Alex the crazy g01 owner wrote

I have a audiocontrol lc1.1500 mounted behind the bracket where the factory amp mounts. No overheating issues since installed over a year ago.

How did you fit it so the trim cover closes? I'm still waiting for someone to comment on this and no one seems to. Debating having to rig a custom panel because there is simply no way I can see to make it fit short of cutting the factory metal bracket out to make more room to get it a few inches further in.

xeacott wrote

Hi all, just picked up a 2021 m40i with the HiFi system and have some dumb questions to ask the experts

- I've noticed a lot on this forum that people recommend the Match Up7 amp. I'm sure there are specific reasons for this, but what are they? Is it just because it's plug and play with the pin connectors, or is the Match Up7 hyper-specifically designed to function exactly the same but just a stronger amplifier?

- Are there any comprehensive wiring diagrams that have been made that show each lead's voltage and current as a follow-up for the above question?

It's been since 2010 since I've done audio overhauls and it was incredibly easier back in the day lol. So what's stopping me from just buying any amplifier, connecting the necessary leads and then just carrying on and treating it like a normal audio upgrade?

If you have iDrive 7 (ie full digital gauge cluster) you likely have the RAM (receiver audio module). The up 7 isn’t plug and play anymore. There’s a lot of talk in the G20 3 series forum about it. I bought a match up7 DSP with MECA input and a PP1.7 harness, planning to install it later this month.

https://g20.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1737016

foglem wrote

How did you fit it so the trim cover closes? I'm still waiting for someone to comment on this and no one seems to. Debating having to rig a custom panel because there is simply no way I can see to make it fit short of cutting the factory metal bracket out to make more room to get it a few inches further in.

I have it mounted on 1/4inch thick black plastic behind the big black bracket that holds the match or factory amp in place. The black metal bracket is held in by 4 10mm I think and I have thick foam/weatherstripping stuck all behind the bracket. My amp is mounted on the 1/4in board which is then just sandwiched behind the factory amp bracket. Ill try to get a picture later if I can figure out how to upload it on mobile.

Hi

How is the GRS sub sound???
Can you share are you happy with it?

lo_cheng wrote

Hi

How is the GRS sub sound???
Can you share are you happy with it?

I changed my stock hifi ones with the 2ohm version grs. Powered by bimmertech pp86 amp. They sound good but they will bottom out if too much power. I have them crossed over from 80hz -200hz. Next build im definitely going with the audison underseat woofers or maybe the focal woofers.

pierreye wrote

Sure. Here's the photo. Interesting if you can check the distortion as my understanding the BMW HU will increase distortion when going above 80% volume. Match UP 7BMW gain is universal to the signal. With analog input, it's 4 channels FR, FL, RR, RL. You can set the gain for each individual channel on the output. I forgot if the changes is live thru USB as I always measure the frequency response for each channel using REW, then use the build in Auto EQ to match the house curve I wanted. Then I manually copy the value back into the DSP and upload to the amp.

I find the loudest volume you can go without distortion is the letter "T" on the word Entertainment. Few turns after that, you start to clip the signal in the case of my aftermarket sub amp.

foglem wrote

How did you fit it so the trim cover closes? I'm still waiting for someone to comment on this and no one seems to. Debating having to rig a custom panel because there is simply no way I can see to make it fit short of cutting the factory metal bracket out to make more room to get it a few inches further in.

I finally figured out how to upload these. Here where I have my amp mounted. Dimensions are 11-15/16"W x 2-1/8"H x 8-1/16"D. Bass amp is mounted on 1/4in plastic and that is velcroed to carpet behind. The metal bracket is what keeps it from moving, it has thick weatherstrip foam behind it. Essentially a bass amp sandwich. No issues with overheating just as long as your amp has a built in fan. Hope this helps:)

Alex C. wrote

foglem wrote

How did you fit it so the trim cover closes? I'm still waiting for someone to comment on this and no one seems to. Debating having to rig a custom panel because there is simply no way I can see to make it fit short of cutting the factory metal bracket out to make more room to get it a few inches further in.

I finally figured out how to upload these. Here where I have my amp mounted. Dimensions are 11-15/16"W x 2-1/8"H x 8-1/16"D. Bass amp is mounted on 1/4in plastic and that is velcroed to carpet behind. The metal bracket is what keeps it from moving, it has thick weatherstrip foam behind it. Essentially a bass amp sandwich. No issues with overheating just as long as your amp has a built in fan. Hope this helps:)

Interesting, so your amps are stick to the metal plate using double side tape??

lo_cheng wrote

Interesting, so your amps are stick to the metal plate using double side tape??

No the bimmertech amp is extreme velcroed to a 1/4in sheet of plastic which is screwed into the factory amp bracket. The audiocontrol bass amp is also mounted to a sheet of plastic with screws but that amp/plastic is sandwiched behind the factory amp bracket. Foam behind to protect face of bass amp. Its a little hard to see especially with the mess of wires from my last system in.

I can't seem to get any audio on the channel H / line out to feed my subwoofer amp, everything's un-muted but still no audio.
What am I doing wrong?