I got this message this AM when going to work. My car didn't even try to start at first, but did after a 3rd push. My battery is only a few months old, I just as the replaced it (and coded it in) Novemberish.
Anyone seen this before? I won't have my code scanner until I get home.
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01-10-2025LAST POST
01-06-2025
01-06-2025
01-06-2025
01-06-2025
I had the same message on my '21 for two weeks until I could get it into the shop (36k miles). The car would fail to do anything when I tried to start it, I would wait about 10 seconds and try again, and it would start normally. The starter was replaced under warranty, part number 12-41-8-671-505. Codes were cleared and all is well.
added:
The starter failed while on the original, fully charged battery. I coded sport mode at startup in the first 5,000 miles and never used A.S.S.
added:
The starter failed while on the original, fully charged battery. I coded sport mode at startup in the first 5,000 miles and never used A.S.S.
admranger
01-06-2025
01-06-2025
do you use auto start stop regularly?
01-06-2025
01-06-2025
ASAP wroteAbsolutely not, it's coded to start in Sport individual to disable it.do you use auto start stop regularly?
ASAP
01-06-2025
01-06-2025
what kind of battery did you use? Ive seen super heavy duty battery's replacing OEM battery only to burn our door locks, window motors, starters etc...
01-06-2025
01-06-2025
x3Prancer wroteOEM 105AH from the dealership, same as what was in it.what kind of battery did you use? Ive seen super heavy duty battery's replacing OEM battery only to burn our door locks, window motors, starters etc...
01-07-2025
01-07-2025
I used my Autel to scan the car, 2 related codes. Looks like I'll be calling BMW in ze morning to schedule a drop off while it is still under warranty! I had just driven it twice over the weekend, each trip was 45 minutes mostly highway each way.
DTC - 216119
Intermittent
Line Disconnection, starter motor actuation (50L/B+)
DTC - 804095
Intermittent
Engine start fault during starter operation: current overload of driver KL50L
DTC - 216119
Intermittent
Line Disconnection, starter motor actuation (50L/B+)
DTC - 804095
Intermittent
Engine start fault during starter operation: current overload of driver KL50L
01-07-2025
01-07-2025
x3Prancer wroteWhat?what kind of battery did you use? Ive seen super heavy duty battery's replacing OEM battery only to burn our door locks, window motors, starters etc...
MagicJohnson
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admranger
01-07-2025
01-07-2025
Happened on my lexus. I replaced the battery with a higher end one with more power, 2 months later, my door locks stopped working, burnt out, had to replace the motors inside the actuators in all of them. I read in the same lexus forum similar things happening soon after changing the battery, window motors burnt, starters stopped working....
01-07-2025
01-07-2025
x3Prancer wroteThat's interesting. Do you have the link to the forum post(s)? I'd like to read thru it when I get the chance. Wonder if something else was at play.Happened on my lexus. I replaced the battery with a higher end one with more power, 2 months later, my door locks stopped working, burnt out, had to replace the motors inside the actuators in all of them. I read in the same lexus forum similar things happening soon after changing the battery, window motors burnt, starters stopped working....
Anyhow, any electrical component should not drain more power than it needs - by design. And if does, presumably due to a fault, the fuse should go out first. Otherwise, things like phone chargers sucking up all 20A from a cigarette lighter would be a typical incident.
01-07-2025
01-07-2025
This happened ~15 years ago on my 02 Lexus which I dont own anymore. It was rather coincidental that after changing batteries, these things started happening. So i swore to never use a battery that is not OEM after that.
01-07-2025
01-07-2025
Good thing this was the exact OEM battery. I've never had an issue with aftermarket, same rating etc etc but OEM was cheaper than anywhere else.
I dropped it off to the Dealer today, they also have to look at my sticking (not sticky) cabin light button (the long one). It likes to get stuck so I can't turn off the light if I use it and that is one expensive piece to replace.
They have to keep it for a few days unfortunately, scheduling me in wouldn't be for a few weeks and my warranty is up in February. At least I was told they can also take care of the luggage bolt recall while it is there.
My wife's goes in tomorrow for software upgrade and luggage rack too, but at least I scheduled it so I'll get a loaner.
I dropped it off to the Dealer today, they also have to look at my sticking (not sticky) cabin light button (the long one). It likes to get stuck so I can't turn off the light if I use it and that is one expensive piece to replace.
They have to keep it for a few days unfortunately, scheduling me in wouldn't be for a few weeks and my warranty is up in February. At least I was told they can also take care of the luggage bolt recall while it is there.
My wife's goes in tomorrow for software upgrade and luggage rack too, but at least I scheduled it so I'll get a loaner.
01-07-2025
01-07-2025
x3Prancer wroteNo problem - I replaced the battery on my G12 last year and up'd the capacity from 90Ah to 105Ah (OEM). Coded and registered without an issue. However on my truck, a few LEDs on the dash keep going out every time I fully charge the battery.This happened ~15 years ago on my 02 Lexus which I dont own anymore. It was rather coincidental that after changing batteries, these things started happening. So i swore to never use a battery that is not OEM after that.
01-07-2025
01-07-2025
mcdanielvzw wroteThankfully happened before the warranty ends. Hope the issues get all sorted out soon!Good thing this was the exact OEM battery. I've never had an issue with aftermarket, same rating etc etc but OEM was cheaper than anywhere else.
I dropped it off to the Dealer today, they also have to look at my sticking (not sticky) cabin light button (the long one). It likes to get stuck so I can't turn off the light if I use it and that is one expensive piece to replace.
They have to keep it for a few days unfortunately, scheduling me in wouldn't be for a few weeks and my warranty is up in February. At least I was told they can also take care of the luggage bolt recall while it is there.
My wife's goes in tomorrow for software upgrade and luggage rack too, but at least I scheduled it so I'll get a loaner.
01-08-2025
01-08-2025
Likely not applicable in your scenario but I had this happen on a 2019 X3M40i with codes 80495 and 80442A. Dealer replaced the starter as per TSB for start failure in below freezing temperatures in case anyone experiences this with an 18/19 in the future. The Bosch starter was replaced with one made by Denso.
01-08-2025
01-08-2025
Commerce wroteThanks for the info. Interestingly enough it did happen during our near freeze in Florida.Likely not applicable in your scenario but I had this happen on a 2019 X3M40i with codes 80495 and 80442A. Dealer replaced the starter as per TSB for start failure in below freezing temperatures in case anyone experiences this with an 18/19 in the future. The Bosch starter was replaced with one made by Denso.
01-10-2025
01-10-2025
Service completed - My starter was replaced under new car warranty! Theres $600-$750 in parts alone I didn't have to spend on Part 12-41-8-671-505.
They did my luggage rail recall fix while it was in too.
They did my luggage rail recall fix while it was in too.
jsh139
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turbobeagle