[bhanna814]

I have a 2021 with Hifi (S676A). I recently had it in for rear brake pads (surprisingly cheap with labor. Out the door at 260). I loved the HK the loaner had in comparison to my Hifi with a sub box I added to the trunk. Tweeters were much clearer, and had more drive in the mids.

I can find a set of HK speakers on eBay for roughly $400 vs Bavsound starting at 750-800. I’m not trying to sink a crazy amount of $ into the speakers with money being tight these days. I know every site suggests starting w the amp but right now that is a bit out of reach.

Here are my questions:
1. Is the Stage 1 truly that much of a difference in comparison to the HK?
2. HK had 2 more speaker placements on the D Piller. Is it possible to add these to a car that was built with the 12 speaker config?
3. Do I need to replace the Hifi amp for the speakers to be compatible?
4. If you use bimmercode to code in the higher level equalizer, will it function or just be for show?

[avi66]

Originally Posted by bhanna814

I have a 2021 with Hifi (S676A). I recently had it in for rear brake pads (surprisingly cheap with labor. Out the door at 260). I loved the HK the loaner had in comparison to my Hifi with a sub box I added to the trunk. Tweeters were much clearer, and had more drive in the mids.

I can find a set of HK speakers on eBay for roughly $400 vs Bavsound starting at 750-800. I’m not trying to sink a crazy amount of $ into the speakers with money being tight these days. I know every site suggests starting w the amp but right now that is a bit out of reach.

Here are my questions:
1. Is the Stage 1 truly that much of a difference in comparison to the HK?
2. HK had 2 more speaker placements on the D Piller. Is it possible to add these to a car that was built with the 12 speaker config?
3. Do I need to replace the Hifi amp for the speakers to be compatible?
4. If you use bimmercode to code in the higher level equalizer, will it function or just be for show?

It’s a combination of the different HK system in the trunk and speakers that you are most likely hearing.

The iD6 Top HiFi (aka HK) has a different DSP/amp mounted in the trunk. This uses a single digital MOST optical connection to the head unit. This unit does the DSP (EQ, logic7 etc) and DAC rather than the head unit.

The HiFi option you have just sends analogue output (each channel for the HiFi option number of speakers) to the amp in the trunk, although afaik the head unit can be coded for MOST output. I’m not sure you can drive a further discrete channel to add more speakers with the HiFi option.

[bhanna814]

Originally Posted by avi66

It’s a combination of the different HK system in the trunk and speakers that you are most likely hearing.

The iD6 Top HiFi (aka HK) has a different DSP/amp mounted in the trunk. This uses a single digital MOST optical connection to the head unit. This unit does the DSP (EQ, logic7 etc) and DAC rather than the head unit.

The HiFi option you have just sends analogue output (each channel for the HiFi option number of speakers) to the amp in the trunk, although afaik the head unit can be coded for MOST output. I’m not sure you can drive a further discrete channel to add more speakers with the HiFi option.

Yeah I figured adding the D pillar speakers would be a bit more than just getting a pillar with the cutouts etc. Are you aware of the compatibility with just swapping out speakers from hifi to top hifi while keeping the hifi amp?

[avi66]

Originally Posted by bhanna814

Yeah I figured adding the D pillar speakers would be a bit more than just getting a pillar with the cutouts etc. Are you aware of the compatibility with just swapping out speakers from hifi to top hifi while keeping the hifi amp?

Honestly, it’s a bag of work for little gain if you don’t fit the HK Top HiFi DSP/Amp.

[jwong77]

I’d recommend getting the Audiotech Fischer Matchup7bmw dsp/amp and call it a day. It completely transformed my Hifi system, without changing speakers. Do a search for it on this forum and see what others have to say.

[Leem40i]

Originally Posted by jwong77

I’d recommend getting the Audiotech Fischer Matchup7bmw dsp/amp and call it a day. It completely transformed my Hifi system, without changing speakers. Do a search for it on this forum and see what others have to say.

I have to agree with this. I have a 2021 with id7 and the H&K sound system. I have to say that compared to every other stereo system I've had in all my different cars this one has to be the worst. As I evaluated the stock system I saw that they completely bastardize any sense of balance and fade control. If I fade all the way to the back all you hear are the subwoofers and the two surround speakers in the rear deck luggage compartment. The rear door speakers go silent. The only way the rear door speakers play is if you have the fade partially or all the way to the front.
The only way to fix this was to use an aftermarket amplifier and sound processor. I went with Bimmer Tech which uses the audio tech Fischer match 10 USP. I went with Bimmer Tech because they already have customized sound files that include all the equalization, timing, and distance measurements for each specific car. From there you can use the DSP application to completely customize every aspect of the sound or you can have one of their technicians make adjustments based on your inputs and send you the sound files. They will even remote into your computer and do it with you so you can see what they're doing. The customer service and the amp coming to price, I don't remember the exact amount but it was in the ballpark of $1,200. For that money though it transformed the whole sound system. Now my speakers fade the way they should and the balance of the subwoofer to the main speakers is much better. The amp also has a pre out to go directly to an aftermarket sub along with a remote turn on line. I purchased a sealed Rockford Fosgate 10-in Amplified subwoofer and it made the system sound amazing. As a result I will able to change the crossover points for the other speakers so that they weren't having to work so hard on the low end. The floor Subs now handle mid base with my Amplified sub handling the Deep stuff below 80 hz.
With their DSP software and an extended USB cable you can even sit in the driver seat while you make changes and hear the difference. If you want to get real technical you can buy a specific Audio Mic and connect it to the laptop and the DSP app. Take an automatically adjust your eq and timing.
It's a chunk of change but in the end you'll be happy. I'd rather spend $1,200 and be satisfied then to spend $500 and still think it sucks.

[avi66]

Originally Posted by Leem40i

I have to agree with this. I have a 2021 with id7 and the H&K sound system. I have to say that compared to every other stereo system I've had in all my different cars this one has to be the worst. As I evaluated the stock system I saw that they completely bastardize any sense of balance and fade control. If I fade all the way to the back all you hear are the subwoofers and the two surround speakers in the rear deck luggage compartment. The rear door speakers go silent. The only way the rear door speakers play is if you have the fade partially or all the way to the front.
The only way to fix this was to use an aftermarket amplifier and sound processor. I went with Bimmer Tech which uses the audio tech Fischer match 10 USP. I went with Bimmer Tech because they already have customized sound files that include all the equalization, timing, and distance measurements for each specific car. From there you can use the DSP application to completely customize every aspect of the sound or you can have one of their technicians make adjustments based on your inputs and send you the sound files. They will even remote into your computer and do it with you so you can see what they're doing. The customer service and the amp coming to price, I don't remember the exact amount but it was in the ballpark of $1,200. For that money though it transformed the whole sound system. Now my speakers fade the way they should and the balance of the subwoofer to the main speakers is much better. The amp also has a pre out to go directly to an aftermarket sub along with a remote turn on line. I purchased a sealed Rockford Fosgate 10-in Amplified subwoofer and it made the system sound amazing. As a result I will able to change the crossover points for the other speakers so that they weren't having to work so hard on the low end. The floor Subs now handle mid base with my Amplified sub handling the Deep stuff below 80 hz.
With their DSP software and an extended USB cable you can even sit in the driver seat while you make changes and hear the difference. If you want to get real technical you can buy a specific Audio Mic and connect it to the laptop and the DSP app. Take an automatically adjust your eq and timing.
It's a chunk of change but in the end you'll be happy. I'd rather spend $1,200 and be satisfied then to spend $500 and still think it sucks.

Just such a pity that the BMW RAM is doing a load of heavy lifting DSP, DAC, and amplification with these strap on solutions that just intercept the amplified speaker connections from the BMW system.

OP the Audiotec Fischer HiFi DSP/Amp option for ID 6 replaces the BMW system trunk amp, but it still requires further conversion because the output from the head unit is already processed analogue, and the Audiotec Fischer requires a digital signal to perform DSP.

[jwong77]

Originally Posted by avi66

OP the Audiotec Fischer HiFi DSP/Amp option for ID 6 replaces the BMW system trunk amp, but it still requires further conversion because the output from the head unit is already processed analogue, and the Audiotec Fischer requires a digital signal to perform DSP.

The beauty of the Matchup BMW model, was the plug and play nature of the included harness. I am able to operate all DSP functionality to my Audiotec Fischer DSP/Amp including the time alignment function, which made a significant difference to audio quality.

[Leem40i]

Originally Posted by jwong77

The beauty of the Matchup BMW model, was the plug and play nature of the included harness. I am able to operate all DSP functionality to my Audiotec Fischer DSP/Amp including the time alignment function, which made a significant difference to audio quality.

My point exactly. The only way to do better is to completely rewire the car.

[avi66]

Originally Posted by jwong77

The beauty of the Matchup BMW model, was the plug and play nature of the included harness. I am able to operate all DSP functionality to my Audiotec Fischer DSP/Amp including the time alignment function, which made a significant difference to audio quality.

You do this via iDrive audio menu ?

[avi66]

Originally Posted by Leem40i

My point exactly. The only way to do better is to completely rewire the car.

It’s the basic common denominator, as they can’t sell their product any other way for RAM based systems.

[jwong77]

Originally Posted by avi66

You do this via iDrive audio menu ?

No, using the software Audiotec Fisher provides via my laptop connected to the amplifier using usb. This is the same software used to upload sound profiles,

[avi66]

Originally Posted by jwong77

No, using the software Audiotec Fisher provides via my laptop connected to the amplifier using usb. This is the same software used to upload sound profiles,

Freq and time domain DSP systems have been around for decades. I’ve spent many hours measuring and creating filter profiles using different tech.

You can buy audio DSP SoC/processor solutions from the likes of Analog Devices etc, so it’s relatively cheap and much more accessible with SDK's provided for companies to offer these types of products.

I learned there are always trade-offs, but each to their own.

[bhanna814]

Since I have the ID6 and no ram, does that affect the level of plug n play w the Match Up amps? Sounds like I’d have some splicing to do, which I want to avoid.

[jwong77]

Originally Posted by bhanna814

Since I have the ID6 and no ram, does that affect the level of plug n play w the Match Up amps? Sounds like I’d have some splicing to do, which I want to avoid.

It’s literally plug and play. There is no splicing. You remove the three bolts holding the factory hifi amplifier in, disconnect the existing wiring, then you use the provided bracket and harness to plug the Audiotech Fischer Matchup amplifier where the factory amplifier was located. The usb connection is only used for when you want to make configuration changes to the new dsp, and is not permanent. This all can be brought back to stock configuration without any of the stock wiring being disturbed.

This applies only for cars with ID6, hifi option (676?), and if you buy the Matchup BMW7 amp/dsp. I know nothing about RAM or upgrading to HK.

[avi66]

Originally Posted by bhanna814

Since I have the ID6 and no ram, does that affect the level of plug n play w the Match Up amps? Sounds like I’d have some splicing to do, which I want to avoid.

If you wanted to add additional channels and keep the chain digital it may be possible to code your NBT Evo HU (assuming that’s what you have) from 676 HiFi to 688 HK.

You could run a MOST optical cable from the HU to the trunk and add a BMW Top HiFi or a third party MOST compatible (direct or via MOST adapter) DSP/Amp with more discrete channels to allow additional speakers in the D pillar etc.

It would involve coding and additional wiring but it would be digital from HU to the DSP in the trunk.


Ps Bimmertech use re branded Audiotec Fisher amp/DSP, so don’t actually design of make the DSP/Amp. Here’s the Audiotec PnP solution for iD6 676 HiFi, the kit includes the harness etc, but doesn’t support more speakers than the 676 HiFi option. https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/m...ifiers/up-8bmw

[Leem40i]

Originally Posted by bhanna814

Since I have the ID6 and no ram, does that affect the level of plug n play w the Match Up amps? Sounds like I’d have some splicing to do, which I want to avoid.

Go to Bimmertechs site and see what they have for your set up. You provide your VIN and it will look up what you need.