Think twice.

It's an enormous pain in the ass.

Don't get me wrong -- it's a simple procedure.

But the filter is under a panel in the passenger footwell behind a vent and the filter cover is both clipped in and screwed in. Worse, the slot the filter goes in is curved. Clearly, the engineer who designed it never had to replace it.

It's all about positioning. On the ground (as I did it), you really can't get enough room even with the seat all the way back to really get a good angle on all the fasteners. I imagine it wouldn't be any better in the air on a lift.

I'd recommend you try it yourself at least once because I got news for you: the guy at the BMW dealer (who wants $200 to replace a $35 filter) is never gonna put all those panels and fasteners back the way you will.

For those game for the challenge :-), here're the ITSA instructions.

Just did this. Can confirm that I miss how quick and easy it was in my Accord. The following day my back was sore from a cranky muscle. However, I'll keep doing it because I'm cheap about DIY's, and I'll be damned if I'm going to pay $200 for the dealer to change what I can buy off Rock Auto for $20.

Thanks, saved this for future reference...

and it is so easy on my 2011 328!

Thank God these are free of charge (parts & labor) in Canada...

Whew! My back's hurting thinking about doing it.

Wish it was under the cowling in the engine bay, like on my old E90....

They charge $200 because the mechanic needs to go for a few chiropractic sessions after the change. LOL

OP - I know you didn't (may not have?) meant it - but that initial statement actually made me

spangle1980 wrote

OP - I know you didn't (may not have?) meant it - but that initial statement actually made me

haha...yes when I re-read the OP the first 3 lines sound somewhat 'medical'!

In all of my previously owned make and models of cars I've only changed the cabin air filter ONE TIME (maximum) and usually not until the car is at least 4 years old or around 60,000 miles..... it's the one item I seldom "go by the book".

satz wrote

Whew! My back's hurting thinking about doing it.

Wish it was under the cowling in the engine bay, like on my old E90....

That was simplicity itself -- open the hood, remove the torx screws and there it was!

Not that bad...

^Used this very video.

Fast400 wrote

Not that bad...

If you watch the video, you can see how cramped and poor the working angle is.

Yobyot wrote

Think twice.

It's an enormous pain in the ass.

Don't get me wrong -- it's a simple procedure.

But the filter is under a panel in the passenger footwell behind a vent and the filter cover is both clipped in and screwed in. Worse, the slot the filter goes in is curved. Clearly, the engineer who designed it never had to replace it.

It's all about positioning. On the ground (as I did it), you really can't get enough room even with the seat all the way back to really get a good angle on all the fasteners. I imagine it wouldn't be any better in the air on a lift.

I'd recommend you try it yourself at least once because I got news for you: the guy at the BMW dealer (who wants $200 to replace a $35 filter) is never gonna put all those panels and fasteners back the way you will.

For those game for the challenge :-), here're the ITSA instructions.

It's literally 2 T20 screws and a kick panel that's in the way. That's it. You don't have to take anything else out.

freshxdough wrote

It's literally 2 T20 screws and a kick panel that's in the way. That's it. You don't have to take anything else out.

Technically, it IS extremely easy. Not hard at all. It just fucking hurts. You need to contort yourself into this weird angle for periods of time. Skill? 2/10. Inconvenience? 6/10.

It's better lift the car while do the service, but as I know my dealer do that like most of us at home.

Alias1431 wrote

Technically, it IS extremely easy. Not hard at all. It just fucking hurts. You need to contort yourself into this weird angle for periods of time. Skill? 2/10. Inconvenience? 6/10.

Did it and couldn't complain. Fairly easy compared to my former Audi RS3 with lowered Bilstein suspension where you need to lay down flat on the floor besides the car.

Worst part about it is if you accidentally end up pushing the recirculating flap past it's end stop resulting in poor air flow and even a slight air resistance/whistle that can be heard during fan operation. Ask me how I know because I did it last week when I serviced my microfilter. I've done thousands of micro filters and the G01 apparently is the only one you can possibly do this with. Yesterday I had to remove the complete glove box, passenger knee airbag and the blower fan to be able to access the flap and flip it back over. This is a known issue and there is an SIB for it. According to the SIB replacement of the complete air conditioning box is necessary. I wasn't about to take my car back to my own dealer for that lol.

freshxdough wrote

Worst part about it is if you accidentally end up pushing the recirculating flap past it's end stop resulting in poor air flow and even a slight air resistance/whistle that can be heard during fan operation. Ask me how I know because I did it last week when I serviced my microfilter. I've done thousands of micro filters and the G01 apparently is the only one you can possibly do this with. Yesterday I had to remove the complete glove box, passenger knee airbag and the blower fan to be able to access the flap and flip it back over. This is a known issue and there is an SIB for it. According to the SIB replacement of the complete air conditioning box is necessary. I wasn't about to take my car back to my own dealer for that lol.

What are the odds of finding your post? So, 2 weeks ago, under the regular maintenance, the service center replaced the microfilter. When I picked up the car, I immediately noticed that the fan blower wasn't as potent as before, and a whistling noise could be heard when turning on/off the A/C unit.

Is that flap located at the top of the microfilter housing? I found the one for the outside air which is I believe on the back side. I had to manually force it, so I could get more air, but if I press the recirculating button it doesn't do anything. Can you explain step by step what you did? If you can of course.

Thanks!

CRuben09 wrote

freshxdough wrote

Worst part about it is if you accidentally end up pushing the recirculating flap past it's end stop resulting in poor air flow and even a slight air resistance/whistle that can be heard during fan operation. Ask me how I know because I did it last week when I serviced my microfilter. I've done thousands of micro filters and the G01 apparently is the only one you can possibly do this with. Yesterday I had to remove the complete glove box, passenger knee airbag and the blower fan to be able to access the flap and flip it back over. This is a known issue and there is an SIB for it. According to the SIB replacement of the complete air conditioning box is necessary. I wasn't about to take my car back to my own dealer for that lol.

What are the odds of finding your post? So, 2 weeks ago, under the regular maintenance, the service center replaced the microfilter. When I picked up the car, I immediately noticed that the fan blower wasn't as potent as before, and a whistling noise could be heard when turning on/off the A/C unit.

Is that flap located at the top of the microfilter housing? I found the one for the outside air which is I believe on the back side. I had to manually force it, so I could get more air, but if I press the recirculating button it doesn't do anything. Can you explain step by step what you did? If you can of course.

Thanks!

Step by step was described in my previous post. If you remove the micro filter and look up inside the housing you will see the flap that is sitting incorrectly, like my first photo.

I chose to try and flip the flap myself. You will need to remove the glove box with T20 torx bits. Then also remove the 3x T20 screws on the air box that are installed straight up and remove the blower fan. Then you should see what my 2nd and 3rd photos are. I had the ignition on just so there was power going to the flap motor just so I wasn't pushing against an unpowered flap. I flipped it around almost a whole 180 degrees then turned off the ignition. Turned it back on and selected and deselected recirc and watched the flap work normally again. Drove to and from work today and it's working normally now.

If it's possible to push the recirculating flap past its end stop in one direction, shouldn't it be possible to pull the flap in the reverse direction to restore it to the correct side of the end stop? Perhaps using a suction hose to "grab" the flap so you can pull it.