[pcb335i]

I got a 2007 335i coupe. I want to do a summer project on it and do some upgrades. Here are a few things I was looking at getting based of simple YouTube videos and research. If I could get some feedback on what you all think about that'd be great! Feel free to recommend other parts, brands, or add ons!

[Ubersmooth]

Oil cooler would be a great addition if you don't already have one. I'd add FMIC on the list too. Suspension components would be good too.

[fmoua916]

Fmic is a must for this car.

[pcb335i]

Originally Posted by fmoua916

Fmic is a must for this car.

Can you give me a dummy downed explanation of what exactly it does? I've come across them plenty of times on like mod bargains.com and other websites for tuning. And also could you recommend a good brand to look at

[ArcticRik]

Originally Posted by pcb335i

Can you give me a dummy downed explanation of what exactly it does? I've come across them plenty of times on like mod bargains.com and other websites for tuning. And also could you recommend a good brand to look at

Front Mount Inter Cooler... its a must to keep Internal Air Temps down. Especially living in South Florida. I would take a look at VRSF as they have quality products for a good price. I had the HPF FMIC on my car and I loved it but they have gone out of business and they are hard to come by now. I would also take a look at AMS.

[JustDriveIt]

My car doesn't have an oil cooler, but I don't see the point of adding it. Do people like their oil to be cool? Is it so it takes longer to heat up? I must be missing the point because I don't have one yet my oil temp never gets too high and already takes forever to heat up.

[BSM n54iS]

Sub oil cooler for fmic..unless you plan on tracking the car then do both. I have cobb products including catted dp, get dp's...but unless you really like dp back cobb exhaust sound look into other options for that money. An exhaust doesn't add anything but sound, so research and see what kind of sound you like...For you the catless dp with PE exhaust is the most popular setup.

[PR3C1510N]

I suggest a catch can setup as well. having one can only help your motor run healthier.

the way it works is to prevent blow by of oil, which could lead to dangerous situations of coating couplers, causing them to slide off under boost, coating the fins inside an intercooler which drastically decreases its efficiency, and ultimately end up cooking inside your turbo, contributing to a nasty condition of what is called “oil coking” where the oil turns to a charcoal like substance in the turbo over time. Plus you don’t want any blow by on your pistons either.

[pcb335i]

Originally Posted by Black n54is

Sub oil cooler for fmic..unless you plan on tracking the car then do both. I have cobb products including catted dp, get dp's...but unless you really like dp back cobb exhaust sound look into other options for that money. An exhaust doesn't add anything but sound, so research and see what kind of sound you like...For you the catless dp with PE exhaust is the most popular setup.

I looked into simply straight piping my car and adding the downpipes. What's your thought on that?

[pcb335i]

Originally Posted by PR3C1510N

I suggest a catch can setup as well. having one can only help your motor run healthier.

the way it works is to prevent blow by of oil, which could lead to dangerous situations of coating couplers, causing them to slide off under boost, coating the fins inside an intercooler which drastically decreases its efficiency, and ultimately end up cooking inside your turbo, contributing to a nasty condition of what is called “oil coking” where the oil turns to a charcoal like substance in the turbo over time. Plus you don’t want any blow by on your pistons either.

Something along the lines of this?

[pcb335i]

Originally Posted by ArcticRik

Front Mount Inter Cooler... its a must to keep Internal Air Temps down. Especially living in South Florida. I would take a look at VRSF as they have quality products for a good price. I had the HPF FMIC on my car and I loved it but they have gone out of business and they are hard to come by now. I would also take a look at AMS.

How's this one look?

[RobertRichy]

There are way too many "what FMIC is the best" threads. Some are better than others with numbers to back it up. That being said, any FMIC sold by a forum vendor is an upgrade from the factory. According to the guys at Pro Tuning Freaks....a FMIC should be your first upgrade. Buying an exhaust would be the last thing I purchase. You're not gaining much HP and I think that money is better spent on other mods.

FMIC
Catless DP's
Charge Pipe
Pro Tune
DCI

[pcb335i]

Originally Posted by RobertRichy

There are way too many "what FMIC is the best" threads. Some are better than others with numbers to back it up. That being said, any FMIC sold by a forum vendor is an upgrade from the factory. According to the guys at Pro Tuning Freaks....a FMIC should be your first upgrade. Buying an exhaust would be the last thing I purchase. You're not gaining much HP and I think that money is better spent on other mods.

FMIC
Catless DP's
Charge Pipe
Pro Tune
DCI

Yeah I understand that! The exhaust is just for my personal pleasure. But let me ask this, if I do get the downpipes installed onto my stock exhaust could I later add a new exhaust system onto the downpipes ?

[RobertRichy]

Originally Posted by pcb335i

Yeah I understand that! The exhaust is just for my personal pleasure. But let me ask this, if I do get the downpipes installed onto my stock exhaust could I later add a new exhaust system onto the downpipes ?

Yes...been done many times over

[fazman]

Originally Posted by pcb335i

I got a 2007 335i coupe. I want to do a summer project on it and do some upgrades. Here are a few things I was looking at getting based of simple YouTube videos and research. If I could get some feedback on what you all think about that'd be great! Feel free to recommend other parts, brands, or add ons!

1) ditch the stock run flat tires and go with some michillen Pilot Super Sports (since you are in florida and never see cold temps or snow).
2) Get the full jb4 kit with DCI and usb cable.
3) get a FMIC, i love my Evolution Racewerks (ER) FMIC, competition kit with CF shroud... make sure you get it annodized hard as well... its worth every penny.
4) This is where bundling services will save you money in labor. Get an ER Chargepipe with one or two meth bungs for future upgrades, choose between getting the BOV or DV (i got the tial Q bov). I got thr LCI Chargepipe because it fits on the pre lci cars... but not the other way around. Along with this install i recommend you get you intakes carbon blasted for $250 and when the reinstall everything have them toss in the new CP and BOV (labor is zero). While you are at it also get the BMS OCC (Oil Catch Can) installed and also get a new RB PCV + RB PCV cap and hose. Since everything is fresh... might as well toss in some NGK spark plugs and have them correctly gapped. At this point you will love your car a lot.
5) Since you live in FL, you have no emmissions testing... ever... so its up to you if you want to get AR Design Down Pipes... I don't recommend getting an exhaust because i heard that the car has an annoying drone if you get both the DP and exhaust.
6) At this point your ready to pump a full tank of premium gas with 1-4 gals of e85 fuel while on map 5 of the jb4 g5 iso. Do some dat logging on the jb4 as you start with 1 gal of e85 to see how your car reacts to it.
7) Get some Bilatein B6 or KW-v1's or KW v3's for the suspension upgrade.



I got all my parts from Mike at n54tuning.com since he is a sponsored vendor here and is based in Canada (free shipping and no tax... get your best price and have Mike beat it for you) you will be happy you ordered from him!!!

[pcb335i]

Originally Posted by fazman

1) ditch the stock run flat tires and go with some michillen Pilot Super Sports (since you are in florida and never see cold temps or snow).
2) Get the full jb4 kit with DCI and usb cable.
3) get a FMIC, i love my Evolution Racewerks (ER) FMIC, competition kit with CF shroud... make sure you get it annodized hard as well... its worth every penny.
4) This is where bundling services will save you money in labor. Get an ER Chargepipe with one or two meth bungs for future upgrades, choose between getting the BOV or DV (i got the tial Q bov). I got thr LCI Chargepipe because it fits on the pre lci cars... but not the other way around. Along with this install i recommend you get you intakes carbon blasted for $250 and when the reinstall everything have them toss in the new CP and BOV (labor is zero). While you are at it also get the BMS OCC (Oil Catch Can) installed and also get a new RB PCV + RB PCV cap and hose. Since everything is fresh... might as well toss in some NGK spark plugs and have them correctly gapped. At this point you will love your car a lot.
5) Since you live in FL, you have no emmissions testing... ever... so its up to you if you want to get AR Design Down Pipes... I don't recommend getting an exhaust because i heard that the car has an annoying drone if you get both the DP and exhaust.
6) At this point your ready to pump a full tank of premium gas with 1-4 gals of e85 fuel while on map 5 of the jb4 g5 iso. Do some dat logging on the jb4 as you start with 1 gal of e85 to see how your car reacts to it.
7) Get some Bilatein B6 or KW-v1's or KW v3's for the suspension upgrade.



I got all my parts from Mike at n54tuning.com since he is a sponsored vendor here and is based in Canada (free shipping and no tax... get your best price and have Mike beat it for you) you will be happy you ordered from him!!!

Let me message you. I got a whole bunch of questions

[fazman]

Originally Posted by pcb335i

Let me message you. I got a whole bunch of questions

ask away... do lots of research and plan before you spend any money. Always make sure your car is running correctly and at proper maintance before modding because there is no sense in going beyond oem spec when your car isn't even running normal

[fazman]

Originally Posted by JustDriveIt

My car doesn't have an oil cooler, but I don't see the point of adding it. Do people like their oil to be cool? Is it so it takes longer to heat up? I must be missing the point because I don't have one yet my oil temp never gets too high and already takes forever to heat up.

it makes a difference if you track your car cuz the n54 motor always tends to get into limp mode at 280°F for oil temps and at about 220°+F i think oil starts to break down faster. My oil temps when using the dealership oil is rock solid at 240°F for a daily driver. just switching to M1 0w-40 euro from walmart made my temps at 225°F consistently.

Heat is the enemy of motor oil. Always change your motor oil using a rule of thumb of for each 1qt of synthetic oil you have in the motor, you can drive 1000 miles. Our cars are just under 7qts of oil so change the oil every 7500 miles/12 months and you should be perfect.

[Nitrousbird]

My opinions on your list:
- BMS has not released their charge pipe for a BOV yet. Sounds like Terry will be and I will likely be going that route.

- I would NOT do the catback. Just run the JB4 with the flapper valve open.

- I'd go catless downpipes. This will also make the car louder if that's what you want

- If you have no oil cooler, get one. These idiots saying "it will just take longer to warm up the oil" don't understand the concept of a thermostat. You want your oil running in proper operating temperature - running additional boost over stock will just heat your oil up further

- JB4 is great; either get the USB option or the JB4 connect kit

- Get the MHD tune stuff to do a backend flash as well - luckily its cheap.

[fazman]

Originally Posted by Nitrousbird

My opinions on your list:

- If you have no oil cooler, get one. These idiots saying "it will just take longer to warm up the oil" don't understand the concept of a thermostat. You want your oil running in proper operating temperature - running additional boost over stock will just heat your oil up further

Three point of views on this:
1) If you keep the oem thermostat for the oil cooler, your right because it doesn't open until the oil temp reaches 235°F, until that point your car acts like one with no oil cooler (because its not flowing oil to it). The stock oil cooler is not enough if you track the car... you will need an after market oil cooler but it makes for an easier retrofit if you have the oem parts already on the oil filter housing

2) Some folks choose to get the oil cooler thermostat bypass (bms or just flip around the oem one) this is a very simple diy. This will make the oil cooler feed oil ALL the time. This might be a good option for people in hot states where you never get winter like conditions (worst case is you put back the oem thermostat and just swap around every spring/fall season).

3) I have heard that someone makes a lower temp thermostat for the oil cooler so it triggers a little earlier. i would guess if you could find one that opens at 200°F that would be a great spot.

Originally Posted by Nitrousbird

- JB4 is great; either get the USB option or the JB4 connect kit

- Get the MHD tune stuff to do a backend flash as well - luckily its cheap.

JB4 is also stackable with other firmware tunes too, they also make their own FREE firmware tune. The benefit is that the jb4 offers superior controls while driving the vehicle where you can change tunes/settings even while driving. you can also easily read/clear codes while driving just using the steering wheel audio controls.

pcb335i
I would also like to suggest you invest in an old simple laptop and get a $20-$30 coding cable... have a remote coder help you setup the laptop and code your car for you. Having the full INPA/ncs/winkfp is a huge advantage to trouble shoot your own car with out the cash grabs from the dealership. My laptop setup alone has saved me countless times (clearing led ae headlight faults that permanently shut that light off, checking for readiness, clearing errors module by module, reseting adapts, finding water pump codes for friends that never showed any error mesgs, coding, battery replacement, and much much more...).

[Chappers 71]

I recently fitted a mishimoto inter cooler & think it's excellent, easy to fit, direct replacement 22 percent core increase. My 335 feels a lot quicker

[Nitrousbird]

Originally Posted by fazman

Three point of views on this:
JB4 is also stackable with other firmware tunes too, they also make their own FREE firmware tune. The benefit is that the jb4 offers superior controls while driving the vehicle where you can change tunes/settings even while driving. you can also easily read/clear codes while driving just using the steering wheel audio controls.

And by stackable, you mean backend flash, which is what I posted.

Their "free" flash (BB) also requires the Bav Tech cable. By the time you spend money on the Bav Tech cable, you are at the same price range as MHD. I'm actually flashed on BB (are you even tuned at all?) because I did it before MHD was the go-to flashing software. I'll probably go MHD next and sell my Bav Tech cable.