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      08-10-2015, 01:45 PM   #1
jsl1419
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Unhappy Help! Engine overheating!!

I got engine temp high and then engine overheating(limp mode) warnings for last two days.

However, there is strange pattern of this warning. The engine temp gauge indicating only little over 200F. Alway warning shows up first in the morning about 10 min local driving with around 35-45 mph. And then it's go away in 10-20 sec, my X3 drives normally all day long!

Any idea?

Last edited by jsl1419; 08-10-2015 at 01:50 PM..
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      08-11-2015, 10:41 AM   #2
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Low coolant? Air bubble ?
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      10-05-2015, 11:13 AM   #3
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did you diagnose what the issue is? I have 40k on my car and just got the overheat warning twice on my car
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      10-06-2015, 12:33 PM   #4
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Out of the blue your engine overheats? Which engine? Any work on it lately? How old is the car?
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      10-06-2015, 12:45 PM   #5
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Usually this happens because there's not enough airflow over your radiator. You're probably driving at too high of rpms for the speed. Just using a higher gear and increasing your speed helps a lot to cool the engine down.
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      10-06-2015, 05:48 PM   #6
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Thermostat module, oil cooler, or transmission oil cooler. Have the dealer check the codes.
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      10-07-2015, 11:05 AM   #7
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top up the coolant first just in case, then have the dealer check it...
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      10-09-2015, 05:13 PM   #8
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An indy shop found the code (20A804) indicating coolant pump was switched off due to a blockage. They reset the code, bled the system and I was on the way.

My radiator fan starts running on and off on short drives. A day later, I got the overheat warning again when I was on the highway. The radiator fan was blowing very loudly.

I just brought it in to the shop and they recommended switching out the coolant pump and thermostat. My 2011 BMW X3 3.5 is at about 40k
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      10-09-2015, 11:38 PM   #9
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You're going to be "thrilled" by the price of that thermostat module. I'm sure that the coolant pump is similarly priced.
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      10-10-2015, 01:02 AM   #10
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Sounds like thermostat is - temporarily - sticking - then releases. Hence the blockage.

In an old car (like a SAAB) you just change thermostat : about $20

There seem to be no reason to change pump - as soon as thermostat opens - no problem?
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      10-10-2015, 06:01 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Usually this happens because there's not enough airflow over your radiator. You're probably driving at too high of rpms for the speed. Just using a higher gear and increasing your speed helps a lot to cool the engine down.
Not likely. The other scenarios posted later are the most likely.

Thanks
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      10-10-2015, 10:58 AM   #12
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Just got car back. $600 for thermostat and coolant pump and 4 hours of labor. Drive much better now. No radiator fan coming on after drives

It seems like a very common problem on the e90/e92 boards but I only found one user who had this problem on this board. Guess I'm unlucky

Last edited by daftsynth; 10-10-2015 at 11:21 AM..
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      10-09-2016, 12:00 AM   #13
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This just happened to me for the first time. I searched this forum which lead me here.

I was driving 50 miles into a 100 mile weekend highway drive, my overheat alarm went off - never happened before. The temp gauge was at or just above the 250F mid point. it seems like it usually about the 3/8 mark up to just under 250 - never touching it in the past, but I don't look at it all that often.

today when this happened, the computer cut power to the engine, i pulled over, shut down. first i restarted to see if it was just a sensor, still overheat alarm, so i shut down let it cool off for 5 mins - no steam or leaking fluids, and after 5 mins or so I started backup, no alarm, gauge was down some. At first I was going to drive just far enough to get off the highway like the next exit with service, but everything seemed ok and i completed my drive there and back later on

on the rest of the drive to where I was going, temp gauge seemed a little closer to 250 than normal - at one point i thought it was going to hit 250, alert me and I was going to replay the cool down on the side of the road as described above. never happened, i made it no problem other than a little nervous.

on the way home later tonight, 96 miles, no problems. at or just above 3/8 mark the whole way - i must say i paid more attention to that gauge today than in the last 5 years combined.

After seeing this i'm confident if it happens again I can pull over and cool down without overheat.

I may see if it happens again before seeking service - not sure, will be going to a shop for tires in a week or so - not sure if dealer or indy - my service center has a deal on install/mount that may actually be cheaper - more on that on a tire thread.

looking at the repairs some of you have done, it would seem to make the most sense to just replace the thermostat if it starts happening again would prefer to not replace the pump unless thats really going to fix it. this problem really seems like a stuck thermostat - seems like a more common problem long ago.

also, looks like this thread is mostly 35i's ?

mine is 2011 35i w/ 56k - very few issues in 5 years.
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      10-09-2016, 07:13 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg2step View Post
This just happened to me for the first time. I searched this forum which lead me here.

I was driving 50 miles into a 100 mile weekend highway drive, my overheat alarm went off - never happened before. The temp gauge was at or just above the 250F mid point. it seems like it usually about the 3/8 mark up to just under 250 - never touching it in the past, but I don't look at it all that often.

today when this happened, the computer cut power to the engine, i pulled over, shut down. first i restarted to see if it was just a sensor, still overheat alarm, so i shut down let it cool off for 5 mins - no steam or leaking fluids, and after 5 mins or so I started backup, no alarm, gauge was down some. At first I was going to drive just far enough to get off the highway like the next exit with service, but everything seemed ok and i completed my drive there and back later on

on the rest of the drive to where I was going, temp gauge seemed a little closer to 250 than normal - at one point i thought it was going to hit 250, alert me and I was going to replay the cool down on the side of the road as described above. never happened, i made it no problem other than a little nervous.

on the way home later tonight, 96 miles, no problems. at or just above 3/8 mark the whole way - i must say i paid more attention to that gauge today than in the last 5 years combined.

After seeing this i'm confident if it happens again I can pull over and cool down without overheat.

I may see if it happens again before seeking service - not sure, will be going to a shop for tires in a week or so - not sure if dealer or indy - my service center has a deal on install/mount that may actually be cheaper - more on that on a tire thread.

looking at the repairs some of you have done, it would seem to make the most sense to just replace the thermostat if it starts happening again would prefer to not replace the pump unless thats really going to fix it. this problem really seems like a stuck thermostat - seems like a more common problem long ago.

also, looks like this thread is mostly 35i's ?

mine is 2011 35i w/ 56k - very few issues in 5 years.
Procedure to replace the thermostat and coolant pump attached if necessary...
Attached Images
File Type: pdf replacecoolantpump.pdf (1.49 MB, 1667 views)
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      10-11-2016, 10:18 PM   #15
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The cooling system bleeding procedure is "interesting."

Bleed cooling system!
Note:
Do not open the coolant expansion tank cap during the
bleeding procedure.
Switch on the low-beam headlights to perform the
bleeding procedure. If the low-beam headlights are not
switched on, the ignition (Terminal 15) will switch off
automatically after a certain period of time and interrupt
the bleeding procedure.
1. Connect battery charger.
2. Switch the ignition on.
3. Switch on low-beam headlight.
4. Set heating to maximum temperature. Take back
blower to smallest stage.
5. Driving experience switch must not be set to ECO
PRO!
6. Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor.
Engine must not be started.
7. The bleeding procedure was started by pressing
the accelerator pedal and takes approx. 12 min.
(the electrical coolant pump was activated and
switches off automatically after approx. 12 min).
8. Then adjust fluid level in the coolant expansion
tank to maximum.
9. Check the coolant system for leaks.
10. If the ventilation has to be performed again,
deactivate DME completely (remove ignition key
for approx. 3 minutes). Then repeat from point 3.
Close coolant expansion tank.
Installation note:
Close the sealing cap (1) until the arrows line up.
10/2/2016 3/3
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      10-12-2016, 10:58 AM   #16
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Could someone please post the OEM coolant part # or a photo of the bottle? Thank you in advance!
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      10-12-2016, 03:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbbuzzy View Post
Could someone please post the OEM coolant part # or a photo of the bottle? Thank you in advance!
https://getbmwparts.com/partlocator/...catalogid=4462

They haven't changed to a different part # in a long time.
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      10-17-2016, 07:51 PM   #18
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Thank you, I thought there were different kinds (pink, blue, etc.). My manual is useless and only says, see service advisor for approved coolant.
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      10-19-2016, 09:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbbuzzy View Post
My manual is useless and only says, see service advisor for approved coolant.
This is why we need these forums
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      03-06-2018, 07:54 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96_Impreza View Post
The cooling system bleeding procedure is "interesting."

Bleed cooling system!
Note:
Do not open the coolant expansion tank cap during the
bleeding procedure.
Switch on the low-beam headlights to perform the
bleeding procedure. If the low-beam headlights are not
switched on, the ignition (Terminal 15) will switch off
automatically after a certain period of time and interrupt
the bleeding procedure.
1. Connect battery charger.
2. Switch the ignition on.
3. Switch on low-beam headlight.
4. Set heating to maximum temperature. Take back
blower to smallest stage.
5. Driving experience switch must not be set to ECO
PRO!
6. Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor.
Engine must not be started.
7. The bleeding procedure was started by pressing
the accelerator pedal and takes approx. 12 min.
(the electrical coolant pump was activated and
switches off automatically after approx. 12 min).
8. Then adjust fluid level in the coolant expansion
tank to maximum.
9. Check the coolant system for leaks.
10. If the ventilation has to be performed again,
deactivate DME completely (remove ignition key
for approx. 3 minutes). Then repeat from point 3.
Close coolant expansion tank.
Installation note:
Close the sealing cap (1) until the arrows line up.
10/2/2016 3/3
When starting the bleeding system with engine off. The radiator fan comes on full blast during the duration of the bleeding process. Thoughts ?
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      08-26-2021, 09:20 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daftsynth View Post
Just got car back. $600 for thermostat and coolant pump and 4 hours of labor. Drive much better now. No radiator fan coming on after drives

It seems like a very common problem on the e90/e92 boards but I only found one user who had this problem on this board. Guess I'm unlucky
Hey has anyone had this problem since? My car seems mechanically fine but keeps getting the overheating error. My guess is it's related to a bad thermostat
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      08-26-2021, 10:01 AM   #22
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The electric water pump and thermostat are routine maintenance items on these cars, even if BMW doesnt officially say so...so change them both
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