[lidation]

My '13 X3 w/ N20 engine currently has 117k miles. It has mostly been problem free except for oil housing gasket leak at around 65k and the timing chain guide shattered at 80k miles.

I am currently doing the waterpump and thermostat change. And I figured that since I am down there I might as well just replace all the hoses. Right now I am not able to remove the hose between the water pump and the engine block. the 3-way hose is only stuck on with the engine. I removed the bolt on the flange but no matter how hard I pulled, it just wouldn't move. I spray WD40 on it everyday for the past 3 days. Below are the photos.

Any advice on how to remove this darn thing?

[383vett]

Since you are going to replace it, give it a lengthwise slice with a box cutter bat the flange.

[lidation]

Originally Posted by 383vett

Since you are going to replace it, give it a lengthwise slice with a box cutter bat the flange.

The flange is very hard plastic, how do you cut it with box cutter? Also, after the flange is cut, would't it run the risk of leaving the male part of the hose inside the engine block receptacle?

[HPR]

If it were me I'd get a heat gun and warm the area where the plastic flange and the block mate. Once warm, start tapping on it with a dead blow hammer. My guess is that there's some gasket sealer/adhesive that's cemented the part in place. Good luck.

[lidation]

Originally Posted by HPR

If it were me I'd get a heat gun and warm the area where the plastic flange and the block mate. Once warm, start tapping on it with a dead blow hammer. My guess is that there's some gasket sealer/adhesive that's cemented the part in place. Good luck.

Great advice!!! Originally I thought that the heating will expand the plastic way more than the Aluminum engine block and will make it tighter fit so I never tried heat it up. But your perspective of the gasket cemented in the engine warrants this trial. will report back on how it goes.

[lidation]

Originally Posted by lidation

Great advice!!! Originally I thought that the heating will expand the plastic way more than the Aluminum engine block and will make it tighter fit so I never tried heat it up. But your perspective of the gasket cemented in the engine warrants this trial. will report back on how it goes.

Errr..... the heat gun didn't work.
I checked all the DIY videos and nobody is messing with this hose on their N20.

[tracer bullet]

Since it's a "may as well" item, I'd probably just leave it alone as long as you didn't cut it already.

[chris55552]

I just did the same thing, including radiator so I feel your pain and frustration. I had hell getting it off myself but finally managed after doing several things including tapping carefuly with a hammer just to knock the connection loose, also used dawn soap and lubricated the connection point with it, I then got a large set of channel locks with a grip large enough to grasp the entire connection point, wrapped a washcloth around it to prevent metal to plastic contact and damage. Grabbed it with the channel lock pliers and and just shifted it back and forth, up and down and side to side to jar the connection loose and it finally broke free. Just be sure to remove any dawn soap residue for obvious reasons, the dawn did come in handy when It came time to reconnecting it. I poured a couple of drops onto my finger and rubbed it around the fittings and it helped it slide back on, it actually helped alot and would have been hell attaching it without it. Channel locks were the key, along with the soap.

[lidation]

Originally Posted by chris55552

I just did the same thing, including radiator so I feel your pain and frustration. I had hell getting it off myself but finally managed after doing several things including tapping carefuly with a hammer just to knock the connection loose, also used dawn soap and lubricated the connection point with it, I then got a large set of channel locks with a grip large enough to grasp the entire connection point, wrapped a washcloth around it to prevent metal to plastic contact and damage. Grabbed it with the channel lock pliers and and just shifted it back and forth, up and down and side to side to jar the connection loose and it finally broke free. Just be sure to remove any dawn soap residue for obvious reasons, the dawn did come in handy when It came time to reconnecting it. I poured a couple of drops onto my finger and rubbed it around the fittings and it helped it slide back on, it actually helped alot and would have been hell attaching it without it. Channel locks were the key, along with the soap.

Good to see another fellow F25 owner did this as well. I was also able to get it off as well. my method was to cut the small hose, then use the T as a leverage and stick a metal bar into the T to rotate the thing by about 90-degree, this way, I get the flange to be above some engine block features that sticks out. I then use that as a leverage point to pry the fitting out of the engine receptacle. For lubricant, I used a ton of WD-40. I later flushed my engine coolant channels to get whatever WD-40 i there.

Thanks again for chiming in! And I hope future folks could benefit from these discussions.