[supreetsingh]

Hello

I drove x3 35i 2013 , when i start my car after 15 mins when cooling system kicks in I start to see coolant leaking from the bottom of driver side of radiator .

I suspect its the radiator upper hose (in picture ) but would like your input.

Standing car doesnt leak any coolant , only coolant leak when the car gets up temperature roughly about 15-20 mins !

Need advice which parts to be changed

[Wgosma]

Take a look here https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=17_0585

Suggest you input the last 7 digits of your car's VIN number into the site to make certain appropriate p/n's are listed.

You do need to verify which exact hose(s) are leaking - I recall reading some time ago that that small hose (#2) that connects to the expansion tank can sometimes fail - Good luck/Bill

[Bdavi011]

I would disconnect that hose and see if you can trace the coolant leak. For all you know it's a leak in the radiator and you bought a hose that won't fix the problem. Becareful removing the small hose that runs from that hose to the coolant reservoir, I've broken it first time I handled it. If anything, buy that part because chances are that if you have never touched it before, it's gonna break.

[pungo]

Not sure why you created a 2nd threat on the exact same leak

I can't tell much from the pics since it's really dirty. I'd start by thoroughly cleaning the area around the leak, then watch closely where it starts leaking from to pinpoint exactly what's leaking.

Is that duct tape wrapped around the intake tract in an attempt to seal it

[supreetsingh]

Originally Posted by Bdavi011

I would disconnect that hose and see if you can trace the coolant leak. For all you know it's a leak in the radiator and you bought a hose that won't fix the problem. Becareful removing the small hose that runs from that hose to the coolant reservoir, I've broken it first time I handled it. If anything, buy that part because chances are that if you have never touched it before, it's gonna break.

Hello, I think its not the hose ! I just checked it again.
Leak starts after 15 mins when cooling system kicked in and it starts from the radiator upper driver side , i think there is a plastic tank too there but not sure what is it ? Any idea ?

But its definitely not from any hose.
So i was thinking if i can use jb weld or permatex gaskit maker to fix the leak ?

I already used Risolene Liquid Aluminium Radiator leak stop mixed with coolant in coolant tank.

[supreetsingh]

Originally Posted by supreetsingh

Hello, I think its not the hose ! I just checked it again.
Leak starts after 15 mins when cooling system kicked in and it starts from the radiator upper driver side , i think there is a plastic tank too there but not sure what is it ? Any idea ?

But its definitely not from any hose.
So i was thinking if i can use jb weld or permatex gaskit maker to fix the leak ?

I already used Risolene Liquid Aluminium Radiator leak stop mixed with coolant in coolant tank.

Here is the clear picture of leak from radiator.
Can we patch it ? I dont wanna replace the radiator right now

[Wgosma]

If you want a repair your can rely on you need to have a new radiator installed; my sense it any attempts at repairing that plastic component would not last very long at all, assuming you can get it to seal and withstand the heat.

[pungo]

In an emergency stuck somewhere, sure JB weld may get you back on the road. The stop leak additive can wreck havoc on the cooling system, I highly recommend to never use it. If the radiator is cracked and leaking, I recommend replacing it, but judging from the JB weld comment and duct tape holding your car together, you prefer to jury-rig rather than do repairs properly.

[supreetsingh]

Originally Posted by pungo

In an emergency stuck somewhere, sure JB weld may get you back on the road. The stop leak additive can wreck on the cooling system, I highly recommend to never use it. If the radiator is cracked and leaking, I recommend replace it, but judging from the JB weld comment and duct tape holding your car together, you prefer to jury-rig rather than do repairs properly.

Thanks guys I will definitely take your recommendation. This forum is great for knowledge.

[WagonR]

I just went through this on my 2013 X3 3.5i about a month ago. Leak at the same spot.

New OEM radiator was around $325. 1 gallon of the concentrated coolant was enough. Maybe 3 hours of work.

There's no drain plug on the radiator, so it's always a F-ing mess, but it's pretty straight forward.

Cooling system failures and oil leaks...on BMWs they seem to find a way...

[supreetsingh]

Originally Posted by WagonR

I just went through this on my 2013 X3 3.5i about a month ago. Leak at the same spot.

New OEM radiator was around $325. 1 gallon of the concentrated coolant was enough. Maybe 3 hours of work.

There's no drain plug on the radiator, so it's always a F-ing mess, but it's pretty straight forward.

Cooling system failures and oil leaks...on BMWs they seem to find a way...

Hey guys I fixed the leak with a JB Waterweld and it worked.

But I have a issue that car is overheating and misfiring.

When i was fixing radiator leak , i also opened a radiator hose which leaked coolant , then i closed it. But i refill the coolant with distilled water just to test leak.

After that i mixed half gallon of bmw oem 50/50 coolant.

Is air in coolant or lots of mixing up coolant is a cause that car is overheating and shaking with misfiring when above half needle temperature?

[Wgosma]

Bleed air from the system:

Bleed cooling system! Note:
Do not open the coolant expansion tank cap during the bleeding procedure.

Switch on the low-beam headlights to perform the bleeding procedure. If the low-beam headlights are not switched on, the ignition (Terminal 15) will switch off automatically after a certain period of time and interrupt the bleeding procedure.


Connect battery charger.
Switch the ignition on.
Switch on low-beam headlight.
Set heating to maximum temperature. Take back blower to smallest stage.
Driving experience switch must not be set to ECO PRO!
Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor. Engine must not be started.
The bleeding procedure was started by pressing the accelerator pedal and takes approx. 12 min. (the electrical coolant pump was activated and switches off automatically after approx. 12 min).
Then adjust fluid level in the coolant expansion tank to maximum.
Check the coolant system for leaks.
If the ventilation has to be performed again, deactivate DME completely (remove ignition key for approx. 3 minutes). Then repeat from point 3.

[Bdavi011]

To be honest, if you still experience overheating and misfires after bleeding the system, I would bet that your thermostat is gunked up with the stop leak you put in the cooling system.

The thermostats on these cars are electronically controlled based on coolant/engine temperature, engine load, etc... and if the DME (computer) is unable to control the thermostat it should throw a fault and not run optimally and possibly cause misfires.

I haven't really heard of these cars blowing head gaskets because the computer is pretty good about reducing engine power to the point of zero power so the engine doesn't overheat past a certain temperature.

There is a possibility in trying a cheap method of fixing the radiator leak (the stop leak goo) you could have messed up something else.

[KC87ZB]

What Wgosma said.

Once you have done that you need to monitor very carefully as you used stop leak which can lead to clogged coolant passages.

[supreetsingh]

Originally Posted by Dan13X3

What Wgosma said.

Once you have done that you need to monitor very carefully as you used stop leak which can lead to clogged coolant passages.

Sure ! I did the bleed and car is running a bit better now. I am going to change the engine coolant temperature sensor , i dont know how but it has oil in it .

[guarodc]

Originally Posted by WagonR

I just went through this on my 2013 X3 3.5i about a month ago. Leak at the same spot.

New OEM radiator was around $325. 1 gallon of the concentrated coolant was enough. Maybe 3 hours of work.

There's no drain plug on the radiator, so it's always a F-ing mess, but it's pretty straight forward.

Cooling system failures and oil leaks...on BMWs they seem to find a way...

Hello WagonR, do you have directions on the steps to replace the radiator that you could share? Thank you.

[Dekero]

Don't pull that top hose without a replacement I'm your hand...

Mine was sleeping in the same spot and the hose end had deteriorated to the point it crumbled in my hand upon attempted removal..

And as stated in another thread... Take this time to replace your Mickey mouse flange..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16376392745...mis&media=COPY

[WagonR]

Here are the steps. As always, follow safety protocols when working on the car. In addition to the steps below, I've attached a PDF with the shop instructions for steps 2 through 5.

1. Raise the front of the car
2. Remove the front splash shield
3. Drain the radiator, and disconnect the hoses. This kind of sucks because there's no drain valve, so you basically just undo the lower hose and try not to get it everywhere.
4. Remove the fan shroud.
5. Remove and replace the radiator itself, and then do everything in reverse to put the car back together.
6. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Use BMW coolant. I was good with one gallon of their concentrate (so mixed up I had 2 gallons total). You can just fill through the overflow tank and then you'll need to run the bleeding procedure.

Bleeding procedure:

After the cooling system has been filled with the vacuum filling unit, another bleeding procedure must be performed for vehicles with an electric coolant pump: Note: Do not open the sealing cap of the coolant expansion tank during the bleeding procedure.

Switch on the low-beam headlights to perform the bleeding procedure. If the low-beam headlights are not switched on, the ignition (Terminal 15) will switch off automatically after a certain period of time and interrupt the bleeding procedure.

1. Connect battery charger.
2. Switch the ignition on.
3. Switch on low-beam headlight.
4. Set heating to maximum temperature. Take back blower to smallest stage.
5. Driving experience switch must not be set to ECO PRO!
6. Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor. Engine must not be started.
7. The bleeding procedure was started by pressing the accelerator pedal and takes approx. 12 min. (the electrical coolant pump was activated and switches off automatically after approx. 12 min).
8. Then adjust filling level in coolant expansion tank to maximum.
9. Check cooling system for leaks.
10. If the cooling system bleeding has to be performed again, deactivate DME completely (remove ignition key for approx. 3 minutes). Then repeat from point 3.

[seanmaz]

I recommend following cheap solution $46.00 if you want to control overheating for your engine, radiator and coolant system, oil system problem, ... for saving thousands of dollars

What I have installed is a temperature display alarm that also has audible and flasher alarm from Thermomart. The sensors have a 4” hole in it for mounting. I chose to install engine sensor inside the spark plug for engine sensor or you could use an existing bolt on the cylinder head. The temperature controller is a panel mount unit, and I installed the temperature unit on a bracket that allows the display to be folded up under the dash when showing the car. I bought the display and sensors $46 from Thermomart with model number DIN330 (Auto temp categories) and now I am driving the car with peace of mind and without checking the temperature continuously . I am monitoring the transmission and engine temperature and the unit has alarm sound and flasher for both zones with red and blue display and you can set your alarm for 210F or less, according to your usual temperature cylinder head. It records maximum temperature, so you can check your maximum engine and transmission temperature for end of each travel. It shows Fahrenheit too.