[nnnalvin]

Thanks for your comments brianhinton77 and pungo .

Yeah I probably shouldn't reset trans adaption. I just did that for testing ISTA could perform a proper operation to my bmw. I will let the trans re-learn and see how it goes. So far I haven't expereicen too werid things. but lets fingers crossed.

Transfer case.. The oil change does help on my issue as I am expericeing. Lets hope it can last.
However, I couldn't figure out why calibration couldn't complete properly. Maybe VTG, or maybe the case itself. I don't know, even ISTA doesn't error out. That's beyond my bmw knowledge already..

[frisbeeguy]

Originally Posted by nnnalvin

Thanks for your comments brianhinton77 and pungo .

Yeah I probably shouldn't reset trans adaption. I just did that for testing ISTA could perform a proper operation to my bmw. I will let the trans re-learn and see how it goes. So far I haven't expereicen too werid things. but lets fingers crossed.

Transfer case.. The oil change does help on my issue as I am expericeing. Lets hope it can last.
However, I couldn't figure out why calibration couldn't complete properly. Maybe VTG, or maybe the case itself. I don't know, even ISTA doesn't error out. That's beyond my bmw knowledge already..

Ton of scan tools can calibrate the t-case and ISTA is not needed for this. Check with your local auto garage (like a gas station).

[pungo]

Originally Posted by frisbeeguy

Ton of scan tools can calibrate the t-case and ISTA is not needed for this. Check with your local auto garage (like a gas station).

Not sure why OP should go to a gas station to have the t-case calibrated when the OP has ista, which is the tool the BMW engineers designed for the dealer techs to use for that operation. Maybe it's just me, but last place I'd go for that type of thing is a gas station garage

Seems like there's a problem with the t-case communications since ista says "communication disrupted" while executing the calibration.

[frisbeeguy]

Originally Posted by pungo

Not sure why OP should go to a gas station to have the t-case calibrated when the OP has ista, which is the tool the BMW engineers designed for the dealer techs to use for that operation. Maybe it's just me, but last place I'd go for that type of thing is a gas station garage

Seems like there's a problem with the t-case communications since ista says "communication disrupted" while executing the calibration.

Lol....just trying to make it easier for OP in case he can't figure out how to fix the ISTA issue. BMWs are very common now, so many gas stations have scan tools and other tools to work on them, and in this case all he would need is a command from the scan tool to reset the t-case...the vehicle does all the work. I suggested gas station since they are more likely to not charge a diagnostic fee for this whereas a dealer/independent may. Now, I wouldn't trust a gas station to fix a BMW oil pan gasket....but some can do it...it's always about finding someone you can trust.

[nnnalvin]

Originally Posted by frisbeeguy

Ton of scan tools can calibrate the t-case and ISTA is not needed for this. Check with your local auto garage (like a gas station).

Tried a local garage for this issue before I decided to DIY. They told me a broken transfer case and didn't even bother trying replace the oil and checking the VTG motor.. They actually did a "reset"( I think it's a re-calibration now). Charged me for $120 diagnose fee and $80 for "reset" transfer case. Obviously, they won't let me see the process, so I don't know how the calibartion went...
It's really hard to find a trusthworthy specialist in Australia here. And labor is extremlly expensive compared to average income..

[drewlucas4]

Appologies for slightly highjacking this thread but I think I have the same issue with my 2012 x3. Car has 97k miles on it.

It jumps / judders at low speed, below 20-15mph, mostly whilst slowing down for a junction or in traffic. It's more noticable when of the gas and going downhill slowly.

It's been like it for a while but this last few weeks its gotten more noticable.

So couple of questions to you knoledgeable lot...

From what I've read in this thread so fat, am I right in saying that just changing the oil and calibrating the t-case can solve the issue?

Are the transmission oil and transfer oil the same thing as I had the transmission oil changed about 9 weeks ago.

I have downloaded a copy of ISTA (although not used it yet) and wondered if just configureing the t-case on it's own would help or does it need oil change at same time?

I'm trying not to go down the route of looking to have it replaced but my fear is something is going to go bang at somepoint!

Thanks in advance,
Drew

[frisbeeguy]

Originally Posted by drewlucas4

Appologies for slightly highjacking this thread but I think I have the same issue with my 2012 x3. Car has 97k miles on it.

It jumps / judders at low speed, below 20-15mph, mostly whilst slowing down for a junction or in traffic. It's more noticable when of the gas and going downhill slowly.

It's been like it for a while but this last few weeks its gotten more noticable.

So couple of questions to you knoledgeable lot...

From what I've read in this thread so fat, am I right in saying that just changing the oil and calibrating the t-case can solve the issue?

Are the transmission oil and transfer oil the same thing as I had the transmission oil changed about 9 weeks ago.

I have downloaded a copy of ISTA (although not used it yet) and wondered if just configureing the t-case on it's own would help or does it need oil change at same time?

I'm trying not to go down the route of looking to have it replaced but my fear is something is going to go bang at somepoint!

Thanks in advance,
Drew

It can, but it is not a guarantee. If the issue is not fixed after calibration/changing the transfer case oil, then you most likely have internal wear in the transfer case, thus need a new transfer case.

They're different. Transmission fluid is for Transmission. Transfer Case oil is for transfer case.

You must change the transfer case oil FIRST before running ISTA/calibrating. People don't change the oil out every 30-50K miles in the transfer case and that's what leads to issues. Some People also drive with improper tire tread (9/32 one tire and 5/32 on another for example) and induce more wear to the transfer case.

If a transfer case completely dies, vehicle can still be driven as long as you disconnect the transfer case plug. However, there will be no ABS (for brakes), and lights will be on the dash.

[nnnalvin]

Originally Posted by drewlucas4

Appologies for slightly highjacking this thread but I think I have the same issue with my 2012 x3. Car has 97k miles on it.

It jumps / judders at low speed, below 20-15mph, mostly whilst slowing down for a junction or in traffic. It's more noticable when of the gas and going downhill slowly.

It's been like it for a while but this last few weeks its gotten more noticable.

So couple of questions to you knoledgeable lot...

From what I've read in this thread so fat, am I right in saying that just changing the oil and calibrating the t-case can solve the issue?

Are the transmission oil and transfer oil the same thing as I had the transmission oil changed about 9 weeks ago.

I have downloaded a copy of ISTA (although not used it yet) and wondered if just configureing the t-case on it's own would help or does it need oil change at same time?

I'm trying not to go down the route of looking to have it replaced but my fear is something is going to go bang at somepoint!

Thanks in advance,
Drew

Hi Drewn,

I am OP. The issue is almost fixed now for me after changing the transfer case oil. However, I don't know how long it can last. I heard some stories that issue comes back in a short time. I guess only time can tell. And fingers crossed.
The procedure is definitely DIY-able if you are looking to do it yourself. For my case, my car doesn't have drain plug for transfer case, so you need a tool to suck the fluid out and pump new fluid in. And the fill plug is hidden behind the transmission cross member. I need to follow this guide to remove it first. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...r-box/EISO1R3d I guess you need to do the same thing. But trust me, it isn't hard as it appears.

Good luck.
Nan

[drewlucas4]

Thanks for the feedback folks it's greatly appreciated.

I think the first thing to do is get the transfer oil changed and do a calibration. I have a local garage that should be able to do both. I like the idea of doing it myself but time and getting underneath are the main issues.

The point about tyre tread is interesting as both sets of front and rear tyres are getting close to replacement and I wonder if that might be accentuating the issue?

Cheers.
Drew

[frisbeeguy]

Originally Posted by drewlucas4

Thanks for the feedback folks it's greatly appreciated.

I think the first thing to do is get the transfer oil changed and do a calibration. I have a local garage that should be able to do both. I like the idea of doing it myself but time and getting underneath are the main issues.

The point about tyre tread is interesting as both sets of front and rear tyres are getting close to replacement and I wonder if that might be accentuating the issue?

Cheers.
Drew

All 4 tires have to be close to being equal in tread depth (due to All Wheel Drive). There is little tolerance (if i recall correctly, 1% difference max), so if 1 tire is at 4/32, the rest have to be at 4/32. If 2 are at 9/32 and 2 are at 3/32 for example, there will most likely be driving issues/more transfer case wear.

[drewlucas4]

Originally Posted by frisbeeguy

All 4 tires have to be close to being equal in tread depth (due to All Wheel Drive). There is little tolerance (if i recall correctly, 1% difference max), so if 1 tire is at 4/32, the rest have to be at 4/32. If 2 are at 9/32 and 2 are at 3/32 for example, there will most likely be driving issues/more transfer case wear.

That is interesting and now kinda makes sense. I had the issue before but it eased so I'm wondering if that was because i put on new tyres and didnt connect the two until now. I've looked this morning and the treads in the front are lower than the back, not but a huge amount but certainly different.

How is one supposed to negate this as obviously the fronts are going to wear out more quickly than the rears. I've pencilled in getting all 4 changed but can't do it for a week or so due to holidays and work commitments but will see what it feels like when they're done.

You learn something new everyday!
D

[frisbeeguy]

Originally Posted by drewlucas4

That is interesting and now kinda makes sense. I had the issue before but it eased so I'm wondering if that was because i put on new tyres and didnt connect the two until now. I've looked this morning and the treads in the front are lower than the back, not but a huge amount but certainly different.

How is one supposed to negate this as obviously the fronts are going to wear out more quickly than the rears. I've pencilled in getting all 4 changed but can't do it for a week or so due to holidays and work commitments but will see what it feels like when they're done.

You learn something new everyday!
D

This is a good thread on the whole tire stuff: https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/d...-rear.1400132/

It's important to keep up with wheel and suspension alignment (done at independent mechanics) to prevent premature tire wear. BMW doesn't emphasize this sadly on out of warranty vehicles.
I've heard on most BMWs the rear tires wear out before the fronts (F25 X3 being one of them), but all 4 always wear evenly for me (I do alignment checks).
As for negating....I usually rotate the tires (BMW doesn't recommend it, but I do anyway) and change all 4 when needed rather than just 2.