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      08-14-2022, 08:19 PM   #1
guarodc
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F25 Radiator Replacement

Hello,
I recently has been losing coolant in my 2015 F25 - no overheating yet, and the shop recommended replacing the radiator after a pressure test determined the leak was there. Due to the high cost, I'm considering a DIY project.

I found the part here: https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...ItMGwtbDQtZ2Fz

I then looked up directions online to replace the radiator in the F25 and found none. I found this one for the E83 which is pretty different - starting with the battery location.


I have continued looking with no luck. At this juncture, I'm thinking of giving up, but wanted to ask in the forum if anyone knew of a site or so which can help me figure this out.

Appreciate your advice.
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      08-14-2022, 08:50 PM   #2
Wgosma
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See attached, this should help...looks pretty simple.
Good luck/Bill
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      08-17-2022, 11:37 AM   #3
ClampThurst
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I just did mine a month ago. It was not very difficult at all. Remove three hoses, remove fan, and with two screws the radiator comes right out. I used the Nissen radiator from FCP euro for $150. It was a great replacement and fit right in as if it were OEM. Make sure you follow the automatic coolant bleeding procedure to bleed the system of air afterwords.
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      08-23-2022, 07:17 AM   #4
guarodc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClampThurst View Post
I just did mine a month ago. It was not very difficult at all. Remove three hoses, remove fan, and with two screws the radiator comes right out. I used the Nissen radiator from FCP euro for $150. It was a great replacement and fit right in as if it were OEM. Make sure you follow the automatic coolant bleeding procedure to bleed the system of air afterwords.
Thank you! Did you follow any video or site with directions to replace the radiator? Also, where can I find the bleeding procedure?

I'll look at that Nissen radiator for sure!!!
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      08-23-2022, 07:18 AM   #5
guarodc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
See attached, this should help...looks pretty simple.
Good luck/Bill
Thank you for sharing these documents! I'll review and will post about my experience soon. I'll definitely will give a try to replace it myself.
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      08-23-2022, 07:35 AM   #6
guarodc
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I was reviewing the documents, and have these follow on questions:

1. When replacing the radiator, should the hoses be replaced as well, or is that optional?

2. Before removing the fan, should the battery be disconnected?

3. What is the process to drain the coolant? The link for draining the coolant in the 'radiator replacement' PDF takes me to an unavailable page

4. What is the process to 'bleed' the system? Sadly, the radiator replacement PDF does not make a note of this

5. A post-step of the 'fan removal' document is to delete the fault memory. How do I do this?

Appreciate the advice on these.

Last edited by guarodc; 08-23-2022 at 11:08 AM..
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      08-24-2022, 04:34 PM   #7
Dekero
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I just did this job a few weeks back...

Once you remove the screws holding in the fan and cooler to the fan, unplug and pull out... Radiator leans in and pulls right out once hoses are off it...

Looks harder than it is...
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      08-24-2022, 08:16 PM   #8
guarodc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dekero View Post
I just did this job a few weeks back...

Once you remove the screws holding in the fan and cooler to the fan, unplug and pull out... Radiator leans in and pulls right out once hoses are off it...

Looks harder than it is...
Thanks for the encouragement

Did you have the replace any hose as part of the job?
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      08-25-2022, 09:00 AM   #9
Dekero
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I actually opted to replace the upper hose , the feed hose to the overflow bottle ....they were showing wear.

I also took this time to install the Mickey mouse flange while the coolant was empty and it was easy access..

I can get you part numbers if needed..
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      08-25-2022, 09:50 AM   #10
guarodc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dekero View Post
I actually opted to replace the upper hose , the feed hose to the overflow bottle ....they were showing wear.

I also took this time to install the Mickey mouse flange while the coolant was empty and it was easy access..

I can get you part numbers if needed..
Appreciate it! Yes, part numbers would be helpful. Thanks.

2 quick follow up questions, please.

1. Did you drain the coolant by disconnecting the hose at the bottom of the radiator or something different?
2. Did you have to disconnect the battery before starting the project?
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      08-25-2022, 10:47 AM   #11
Dekero
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I just disconnected the lower hose and let it flow out...

As for the battery I did not disconnect it, just didn't see the point..

Upper hose:. CRP-CHR0606

Expansion hose: 17128651298

Radiator: NSN-60809

All from FCP EURO
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      08-25-2022, 11:59 AM   #12
guarodc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dekero View Post
I just disconnected the lower hose and let it flow out...

As for the battery I did not disconnect it, just didn't see the point..

Upper hose:. CRP-CHR0606

Expansion hose: 17128651298

Radiator: NSN-60809

All from FCP EURO
Fantastic! I'll be performing the project this weekend and will update the forum with my results. Thank you everyone for all the help.
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      08-29-2022, 10:14 AM   #13
guarodc
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Everything went very well. Thanks to everyone who helped me learn how to replace the radiator of my X3 myself. Significant savings and a lot of fun!
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      04-17-2023, 12:43 PM   #14
fastsoup
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Any tips guys...pictures...videos? I am replacing my radiator on my 2011 X3 35i this week...purchased the "blind plug" as I've read that the updated radiator has only 3 connections now...purchased the Nissen Rad from RockAuto.
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      04-18-2023, 08:04 PM   #15
fastsoup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastsoup View Post
Any tips guys...pictures...videos? I am replacing my radiator on my 2011 X3 35i this week...purchased the "blind plug" as I've read that the updated radiator has only 3 connections now...purchased the Nissen Rad from RockAuto.
Removed it all tonight...relatively straight forward.
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      04-20-2023, 08:33 AM   #16
fastsoup
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So put it all back together yesterday...the rad came with 2 big orings and 1 small (3 connections on the radiator). I was only able to use one oring for the connection off the upper radiator hose to the block (didn't initially use it but leaked during bleeding). For the life of me, trying to use those orings for the 3 contact points on the rad I couldn't NOT get the hoses to seat right. In fact, when I removed the old rad, the only old oring I found was in the block to upper rad hose...which leaked anyway (should have know to use it there).

Anyone else have a hard time using the orings?
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      10-03-2023, 01:56 AM   #17
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I just replaced the radiator yesterday. This post is very helpful. Thanks everyone for the contribution.
Fastsoup, I did not use any of o ring at the end. I do not see any o ring in original hose and clamps either.
For any other new bee like me, I found the following 2 videos very useful on YouTube. The 2nd one is not X3, but they are very similar. The difference is small enough to manage.

Radiator Fan Removal on BMW X3 N20 2.0 Turbo
2011-17

BMW F30 Radiator Replacement DIY
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      01-21-2024, 12:29 PM   #18
Hellshalfacre
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I just completed a radiator replacement yesterday. The only additional tips I can offer are: a pair of long-jaw needle nose pliers was helpful in removing the lower/small trans cooler hose clip from underneath the car. Also I found it easier to disconnect the upper and lower hoses before removing the fan, gave the fan a little more wiggle room. Lastly, I found it easier to line up the trans cooler tab on the fan shroud before fully seating and attaching the fan. Not a terribly difficult radiator replacement over all.
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      01-30-2024, 04:50 AM   #19
chris55552
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I just did mine, paid 230 for radiator at o'reiley, its a simple diy procedure. Im a horrible mechanic with zero mechanical skills and i managed to pull it off so anyone can do it im confident. For some strange reason there are always parts left over when i put the car back together lol.
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      01-30-2024, 04:57 AM   #20
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I used long jawed channel locks to grasp the larger hoses and wiggle them off and back on, to prevent damage to the plastic parts I put a dish rag in between the channel locks and the plastic to buffer any scraping or damage and used a drop of dawn soap on my finger and rubbed it on the plastic for lubrication before coupling the hoses. Dont think I would have ever got it on without a lubricant.
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