[JGP]

I know from my search that this may be the equivalent of a post on..."which tires should I buy?", but....there really isn't a DEFINITIVE answer to it when talking about a REAR LIFT point despite seven threads on this in the X3/F25 forum alone.

So, my question is...do folks LIFT at the DIFFERENTIAL (not cover) on the F25 body to raise the rear of the SUV. Then obviously support at the rear jack points with stands? I am unclear as to what that differential housing is made of (cast aluminum?) and have no idea on it's structural integrity...so really don't want to guesstimate on using it without comment from folks who have done so repeatedly and without problems. I can see a floor jack busting right through that in the wrong circumstances.

Trying to do a brake job and the car is 'new' used to me. Clearly no anti-seize or ceramic grease on backside of rim hub because this thing isn't budging and I measured the wheel bolt torque at at least 170 lb/fts.

Because I only have the four official jack/support points, I obviously can't use a jackstand and a jack to safely support at the same point. So my less than stellar plan was to just use the floor jack approach - not ideal and won't work if any lateral pressure applied.

That means I can't rock that tire to get it loose without being really really stupid. Short of taking it to a garage where a 4 point system is a given, having them knock off those tires and then apply anti-seize, I can't think of a way to solve this. I have tried lowering the tire to put pressure on that stuck wheel without any bolts in it (not fully). That did nothing.

I am aware of the safejack option...but no adapter for our F25 model. I'm waiting on word from them if there is an alternative in their lineup.

Thoughts/solutions appreciated. Thanks, John

[pungo]

Use something like PB Blaster with the straw to shoot some though every lug hole and if you can get the center cap out, shoot some though there. Let it sit and the rim should free up.



As far as jacking from the rear diff, I used to do that on my 525i using a scrap of 5/4x6 synthetic decking material between the diff and jack pad. I have since purchased a Quickjack. It's fast, safe and saves allot of time. I have multiple vehicles and this has made life so much easier. I now spend my valuable time wrenching instead of jockeying jacks and stands around.

[Wgosma]

Lift on rear differential, look here https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...guide/EzCfitQL

Be safe always!

Talk about excessive bolt over torque, ugh horrible. You might have to whack those wheels with large brass hammer-use piece of wood between inner rim and hammer head.

Good luck/Bill

[JGP]

Thanks for the advice. Wish I could afford that quickjack....that would break the bank though! Agree it would make this a better use of time. Someday hopefully.

Bill, thanks for the posting. The underside of the differential housing doesn't seem to have that kind of a circular support point. I recall it being sloped, much like I'm used to in trucks, but I will look again. The info is pretty helpful though, just to see where you absolutely can not support.

I noted some circular 'bells' on either side of the trunk, just behind the wheel area. They look like a slender version of the spare tire holders that are sometimes put on undercarriages to drop a tire from a truck's recessed bay. But much beefier. However, they are attached to 'frame horns' or outriggers. I thought those might be effective lift points, but after seeing that schematic, I'm not going to risk it.

Pungo, I actually did carefully spray a bit of PB Blaster in there today, though not at the center hub, rather around the seam point. Hopefully a day will make a difference.

As for the torque, I basically stopped testing it at that point. No idea what they were actually set to. When I got to that, it didn't much matter.

Thanks.

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by JGP

Thanks for the advice. Wish I could afford that quickjack....that would break the bank though! Agree it would make this a better use of time. Someday hopefully.

Bill, thanks for the posting. The underside of the differential housing doesn't seem to have that kind of a circular support point. I recall it being sloped, much like I'm used to in trucks, but I will look again. The info is pretty helpful though, just to see where you absolutely can not support.

I noted some circular 'bells' on either side of the trunk, just behind the wheel area. They look like a slender version of the spare tire holders that are sometimes put on undercarriages to drop a tire from a truck's recessed bay. But much beefier. However, they are attached to 'frame horns' or outriggers. I thought those might be effective lift points, but after seeing that schematic, I'm not going to risk it.

Pungo, I actually did carefully spray a bit of PB Blaster in there today, though not at the center hub, rather around the seam point. Hopefully a day will make a difference.

As for the torque, I basically stopped testing it at that point. No idea what they were actually set to. When I got to that, it didn't much matter.

Thanks.

As long as you lift (and/ or support) appropriate place on the cars subframe you will be fine. Bet you can use diff w/o any problem.

[richardodn]

You don't have that circular support point on the diff, because that's the axle flange in side view. The picture is just showing lift from the steel case and not the aluminum cover. What I typically use for a pad is a square of 3/4" plywood on top of my floor jack pad.

[rirrgang]

Why not use the jack pads on the car that are already there? Seems that is why BMW put them there

[Iowa X3]

Originally Posted by rirrgang

Why not use the jack pads on the car that are already there? Seems that is why BMW put them there

I don't like raising one side of the car up, supporting it with a jack stand, then going around and raising the other side up. Gives more of an opportunity for the other jack stand to shift and do damage....or at the very least scare the hell out of me.

As for the OP, I've raised my F25 by the rear diff several times without issue. My jack has a rubber pad on it, like referenced in that link. Just stay away from the diff cover, of course.

Not sure what other methods you have used to try to get the wheels loose, but after letting the PB Blaster set in, I would try a rubber mallet on the back side of the wheels. Don't have to beat the hell out of them, just give it some impact and keep spinning it around as you go. It'll loosen up eventually.

[jgX3]

Have done breaks (pads and rotors too) many times my friend. Use the jack pad closest to the tire you are working on. Move your jack to the next tire as you work on them. No need to Jack the entire car up. Slide a jack stand under a secure portion of the suspension as a safety net in the unlikely event your pump jack fails. Don’t put any weight on the jack stand in this instance, it’s only there to save your butt if needed. Glad you are tacking the job on your own! Great satisfaction once the job is done - and done right!,

[JGP]

Hello all

Thanks for all the advice. Just thought I would mention that the diff point worked fine for me....avoiding contact with the cover and using scrap 5/4” PVC trim left over from my carpentry days.

I’ve since learned that ceramic grease or anti seize on the hub is not recommended because supposedly it is friction between the hub face and wheel face that assist in “holding” the two together. The wheel bolts obviously are the main thing here but... what this online source claimed is that removing that friction point via anti seize or ceramic grease means a slight shifting over time between hub and wheel. That will loosen your wheel bolts.

I have NEVER heard such a thing but thought I’d mention it since it was a supposedly important change. For this x3...I used a hard whack with a hand sledge on the inner side wall. It did the trick but I wouldn’t want to do that regularly for fear of damaging the sidewall...however remote.

If it happens again...I think a 2x4 on the back sidewall...then a quack whack on that with a hand sledge would work. The rubber mallet was my first go to...but just bounced off the sidewall repeatedly with out effect. The hand sledge was immediate.

Thanks again.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by JGP

I’ve since learned that ceramic grease or anti seize on the hub is not recommended because supposedly it is friction between the hub face and wheel face that assist in “holding” the two together. The wheel bolts obviously are the main thing here but... what this online source claimed is that removing that friction point via anti seize or ceramic grease means a slight shifting over time between hub and wheel. That will loosen your wheel bolts.

I've never heard of this (where did you hear it) and will continue to use anti-seize on the hubs like I've been doing for the last 40 years without issue. The lug nuts prevent any shifting, not the hub......

I guess TireRack didn't hear about what you learned. Here's what they say:
Once you have completed your test fit, we suggest removing the wheel and applying a thin coating of anti-seize around the axle hubs to help prevent rust and permit easier removal when it's time to rotate your tires. Do not apply anti-seize compound to the lug hardware or studs.

[Opie55]

To the OP, I don't understand why you would go to the trouble of raising the car for a brake job or even using jack stands. I just use a floor jack at each wheel one at a time at the lift point - I have wooden blocks that fit in them. Then you can sit on your butt and kick the tire side to side until it pops off. As for anti-seize being bad, that's nonsense. I usually don't put it on the hub face. It's corrosion on the the mounting ring that holds the wheel on tight. I use the copper stuff - I call it "creamed pennies" because that's exactly what it looks like.

[tracer bullet]

^ I basically do this as well. If it's been too long since removing a wheel I stand back and give it a few kicks. Silly but works.

Jack just lifts one corner to do the work, then back down. I don't get under the car when it's like this of course. My method would change when I really have to get under it and then the question in this post does become fairly important. So far though I haven't had to.

Anti-seize is only needed on the interface just between the hub and the wheel, the circular portion, no need for the face or anywhere else. The circular portion seems to be where the corrosion builds up and locks them together.

As to the faces being used to hold the wheel in place, it's pretty true. You are relying on the bolts primarily to hold those faces together, and that friction to keep it all together. If you read up on wheel spacers you'll find related info.

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by Opie55

To the OP, I don't understand why you would go to the trouble of raising the car for a brake job or even using jack stands.

Jack stands = safe support.

It's pretty universally accepted practice to never rely on an adjustable jacking/lifting device as the sole support when working on any vehicle.

(I've changed flat tires on roadside with mechanical scissor jack, but I'm never 100% at ease doing so)

[pungo]

A few minute job

[Opie55]

Yeah, I get that jack stands are safe support, and I would never get under the car with a floor jack, but for a brake job I do not feel it's unsafe at all.