[Riick]

Auto start/stop basically destroys the engine from massive wear and tear from the starting procedure. When you start an engine it takes a second for the oil pressure to rise, so you're constantly just grinding on parts.

It's fine for the normal owner that buys new and trades in at 50k miles, but if you're a baller on a budget and buy your BMW used... you want that feature off since new otherwise the engine might not make it to 100k.

Start/stop is actually destroying the used vehicle market. There's no point buying a used 2015 BMW with 60k miles that was start/stop in a big city it's whole life... that engine is totally destroyed and buying it will buy you nothing but massive repair bills.

Moral of the story: Don't buy a vehicle you can't afford.

[malicem3]

Originally Posted by x3sm

What about N55's without auto start/stop function? Don't they have the same eccentric shaft and motor?

I can confirm that my sisters CLA250 had a failed eccentric shaft and she always has auto start/stop on.

I believe there are N55's, in the US, without ASS but they're 6 speed transmissions in the 1 and 3 series. They should have the same parts but different software. I'm convinced ASS is the reason for the failure I experienced. That said, I'll never buy a used ASS vehicle again.

[malicem3]

I'm willing to bet some that "Valvetronic" and "Eccentric Shaft" replace "water pump," "oil filter housing gasket," etc as most searched terms for all the N5* ASS engines.

Here's another good post about it.

[x3sm]

Originally Posted by malicem3

I believe there are N55's, in the US, without ASS but they're 6 speed transmissions in the 1 and 3 series. They should have the same parts but different software. I'm convinced ASS is the reason for the failure I experienced. That said, I'll never buy a used ASS vehicle again.

Well my X3 has an N55 without auto start/stop with 8 speed hmmm

[malicem3]

Originally Posted by x3sm

Well my X3 has an N55 without auto start/stop with 8 speed hmmm

I guess it is an option? At least on early 2011-2013 or something? I was under the impression all the newer cars have it.

[F30ed]

Originally Posted by Riick

When you start an engine it takes a second for the oil pressure to rise

While the above is 100% true, it hardly applies to the situation when warm(!) engine restarts within a minute or two. Oil film does not just disappear next second after engine stops. Especially this applies to eccentric shaft which hardly experiences significant loads.
Sorry but so far the theory of "ASS killing valvetronic" feels a little bit too far fetched.

[F30ed]

Here is great video on the problem:

Most important are the first few minutes, where it is clearly shown that intake lobes and even VANOs are rusted. Eccentric shaft is also the victim of the same, which at some point killed the valvetronic motor on high resistance.
The question is - why worn out lobes on intake , rust on VANOS and shut eccentric? I doubt it is ASS. ASS does not cause rust. But coolant leaking to oil thru famous Oil Filter Gasket failure sounds like a better explanation. Or some other reason explaining lack of oiling and moisture presence in the upper part of the engine.
I would
1) Check the oil condition
2) Check the OF gasket
3) Check if it was changed in past after major leak.

This is just thinking aloud, not making any statements.

[nastradacha]

Originally Posted by klungie

Alright, keep me posted.

i just took the valve cover off.. guide is broke

[klungie]

Originally Posted by nastradacha

i just took the valve cover off.. guide is broke
[IMG]http://i63.tinypic.com/2z4z5e8.jpg[/IMG]


[IMG]http://i64.tinypic.com/2w7271z.jpg[/IMG]

Feels bad man. So what are planning to do now? I haven't opened mine. Maybe this weekend.

[x3sm]

Originally Posted by nastradacha

i just took the valve cover off.. guide is broke

oh man take it in for warranty work

[nastradacha]

Originally Posted by klungie

Feels bad man. So what are planning to do now? I haven't opened mine. Maybe this weekend.

Thinking i might fix it myself, but trying to do more research before i go further. I haven't seen anyone who did the job themselve

[nastradacha]

Originally Posted by x3sm

oh man take it in for warranty work

It's about. 100000 miles.. Over warranty 😐

[klungie]

Originally Posted by nastradacha

Thinking i might fix it myself, but trying to do more research before i go further. I haven't seen anyone who did the job themselve

We might be in the same boat. I would open the intake plenum first to confirm if any of the valves is bent. Or is it better to fix the timing first then do leak down compression test? The thing is there is a chance that the valves are bent.

[klungie]

Originally Posted by nastradacha

It's about. 100000 miles.. Over warranty 😐

I finally got my valve cover opened.
And.... yep... confirmed!

My timing chain guide is also broken, just like yours, broke on the intake side.

[nastradacha]

Originally Posted by klungie

I finally got my valve cover opened.
And.... yep... confirmed!

My timing chain guide is also broken, just like yours, broke on the intake side.

What do u plan on doing next? I'm still debating my next move,.

[klungie]

Originally Posted by nastradacha

What do u plan on doing next? I'm still debating my next move,.

Originally Posted by nastradacha

What do u plan on doing next? I'm still debating my next move,.

I'll pm.

[Haguilera]

Originally Posted by klungie

I'll pm.

Good morning guys.

I’ve just had the exact same issues as you on my way to work and am currently awaiting a tow truck recovery!! Could you please update me on how you got on and what kind of cost I am looking at?

Mine’s a 2013 F30 320d

Thanks in advance.