[dgilson]

Brilliant thread! Sincere thanks to ///Mposter for outstanding original post.

Just adding my two penn’orth, after using the thread to install rear pads and discs on my 2011 X3 2.0d xDrive SE Auto.

Pad and disc wear I bought the car with 73,000 miles and full service history, but no record of work on the brakes other than brake fluid change. I couldn’t believe the original pads had lasted that long, but indeed when I reset the service indicator, it advises that the new rear pads should be replaced after a further 70,000 miles. So it does seem they were the original pads. If so, is this a record?

Not surprisingly, there was a red alert on the rear brakes. As others have reported, the inner pads were the least worn (at 5mm), including the one with the wear sensor. The wear sensor was just starting to wear. But one outer pad was down to 2mm.

The discs were down to 18.8mm from 20mm new, (allowable minimum 18.4mm).

(Incidentally, front discs have very similar wear to the rears, and front pads have about 7mm left. If these too are original hardware, they could eventually exceed 100,000 miles).

Buying the hardware Online suppliers ECP and Mister-Auto both had a bewildering range of rear pads for this vehicle with wildly differing prices. I wanted a pad set that came with 4 caliper bolts, 4 locating springs and a sachet of grease, but when I phoned them, both suppliers said that all their sets contained pads only. Clearly not so. In the event, the set I chose did include the bolts (but not springs or grease).

Since doing the install, I’ve seen a realOEM.com recommendation that these springs should be replaced on vehicles more than 48 months old, which certainly includes mine. No doubt I should have gone to BMW for a pad set containing everything, but it’s a 2 hour round trip to my nearest dealer …………

Anyway, Mister-Auto supplied 2 Textar rear discs, 4 Febi-Bilstein rear pads (and bolts), rear wear sensor, and litre of DOT4 brake fluid, all for less than 90 GBpounds, which I thought was pretty good.

In the end, I didn’t bother with any sort of paste or grease for the new pads.

Replacing the discs On my car, I found that it’s possible to replace the rear discs (rotors) without removing the caliper bracket. I must admit they needed a bit of persuasion, with just hand pressure, and it felt a bit graunchy, but not such as to do any damage. I felt they were designed that way. So I didn’t need to touch the 16mm bolts. Remember, this is the 2.0d model. I’ve no idea if this is possible on other variants.

Avoiding issues with electric parking brake I used the procedure detailed in post no 66, and it was completely successful. Sincere thanks to flyga3.

Actually I nearly got it wrong. I opened the driver’s door before re-connecting the connector for electric brake motor. This produced an immediate gong and “Parking brake failure!” on the instrument cluster display, even though ignition was off and the remote control was back in the house. Fortunately, connecting the connector restored order and the warning did not occur again.

Re-setting brake life indication I used the procedure detailed in post no 20, with complete success. Huge thanks again to ///Mposter. As mentioned above, 70,000 miles to next pad change!

Brake fluid change I used the same procedure to reset the brake fluid change alert, having taken the opportunity to replace brake fluid all round. Incidentally, I tend to the view that BMW recommendation of 2 year changes is a bit over the top, and I think 3 year changes are adequate.

Hubris control The gods saw to it that I didn’t get carried away with the euphoria of a successful installation. They had me discover a broken rear spring. But that’s another story.

[m3bs]

Did mine today at 38K. Easy job, no issues with reset. I did make sure the pads were seated before setting the parking brake, kept the key out of range, and kept the doors closed. Not sure what it takes to trigger the "no reset permitted" issue, but I wasn't taking chances.

[rohan_b79]

Originally Posted by ///Mposter

Yes you could replace the pads for the rear without replacing the rotors. You can usually use two pad sets without replacement if the minimum thickness of the rotor has not been reached. Also look for hard scratches or lipping of the rotor. Autozone has the rotors for $60 each if you are on a budget.

I checked on my 2011 X3 35i the original rear brake rotor's min. thick spec was 18.4mm. Mine were at 18.1 so probably will get new zimmermann's, any advice on rotors is welcome.
thanks!

[djs95]

Originally Posted by ///Mposter

DIY rear brakes for the 2011 BMW x3 (35i ) chassis F25.

...
Now clip in the EHbrake sensor on both sides. Put car to on/accessory by tapping the start button once. Put the hand brake on and listen for the EHbrake system to rotate and lock the brakes. It will be abnormally longer the first time. Cycle it a few times until it is normal (short cycle). Start the car and pump the brakes. Check to see if there is any weird noises before putting the tires on. Go back and check your work if you do hear something .

I replaced by rear rotors, pads, and sensor. But, when I started my 2011 x3, neither my parking brake or Auto H function works. I only get a warning messages when trying to use Auto H, "manually apply brakes". The parking brake still works as an e-brake when I pull it when in drive.

Any experience with this?

[///Mposter]

Originally Posted by rohan_b79

I checked on my 2011 X3 35i the original rear brake rotor's min. thick spec was 18.4mm. Mine were at 18.1 so probably will get new zimmermann's, any advice on rotors is welcome.
thanks!

It's always easier to have new rotors installed at the time of pads so that any vibration, squeaks, or grinding can be eliminated. The Zimmerman ones should be okay. Best of luck.

[///Mposter]

Originally Posted by djs95

I replaced by rear rotors, pads, and sensor. But, when I started my 2011 x3, neither my parking brake or Auto H function works. I only get a warning messages when trying to use Auto H, "manually apply brakes". The parking brake still works as an e-brake when I pull it when in drive.

Any experience with this?

Maybe one is clamped more than the other. I'm not sure how to balance them from side to side electronically. Could you test the theory by lifting the rear tires( while securing the front wheels from rolling ) and try to spin each wheel. If one is frozen and the other spins freely then maybe you can loosen them again and try to get it to sync from side to side.

Edit: when using the T45 on the caliper side, did you rotate clockwise until it bottomed out? If not done on both sides the same , then maybe that is why caused the sync problem.

[djs95]

Originally Posted by ///Mposter

Maybe one is clamped more than the other. I'm not sure how to balance them from side to side electronically. Could you test the theory by lifting the rear tires( while securing the front wheels from rolling ) and try to spin each wheel. If one is frozen and the other spins freely then maybe you can loosen them again and try to get it to sync from side to side.

Edit: when using the T45 on the caliper side, did you rotate clockwise until it bottomed out? If not done on both sides the same , then maybe that is why caused the sync problem.

I did rotate it clockwise until it bottomed out. I will try again this weekend to test your theory out. Have you heard of these steps below I found in another post?

If you leave the EMF extend/retract gear bottomed out (by turning clockwise with your Torx T45 as described above – which is otherwise necessary to do this job), you will simulate a seizure on the retract cycle of the test sequence the ECU runs darned-near every time anything happens while the car is parked. That’s because with the gear bottomed-out/fully-retracted it would simulate a retract seizure in the retract test phase (for lack of a better description).

Solution:

1. While doing the job as a last step (or take the wheels off and separate the EMF motor and gear if you already have this code) and before marrying the black plastic EMF motor with the male gear to the caliper with the female gear:
a. after your newly loaded caliper is mounted over the rotor, using your T45 tool, simply measure the remaining rotational clearance between EMF/pads and the rotor with a view to placing the EMF’s extension halfway between parking brake fully applied and parking brake fully retracted;
b. Do this by counting how many rotations of the EMF gear it takes to start applying brake pad clamping on the brake rotor. THEN BACK IT OFF BY ½ AS MANY ROTATIONS AS YOU COUNTED. You can rotate the rotor about 10 to 15 degrees with no brakng force on the rotor due to the slop in the entire driveline. When you feel caliper drag on the rotor so that you can’t rotate it back/forth, you know you’re fully extended. For me it took 10 counter-clockwise quarter-rotations of the T45 tool to extend from EMF fully retracted bottomed-out (as described above) to create clamping force on pads to rotor. I then just backed-off 5 quarter-turns (clockwise) and married the black plastic electronic motor to the EMF extender in the caliper and re-installed the wheels.

Source: http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthre...4#post18650294

[///Mposter]

Originally Posted by djs95

I did rotate it clockwise until it bottomed out. I will try again this weekend to test your theory out. Have you heard of these steps below I found in another post?

If you leave the EMF extend/retract gear bottomed out (by turning clockwise with your Torx T45 as described above – which is otherwise necessary to do this job), you will simulate a seizure on the retract cycle of the test sequence the ECU runs darned-near every time anything happens while the car is parked. That’s because with the gear bottomed-out/fully-retracted it would simulate a retract seizure in the retract test phase (for lack of a better description).

Solution:

1. While doing the job as a last step (or take the wheels off and separate the EMF motor and gear if you already have this code) and before marrying the black plastic EMF motor with the male gear to the caliper with the female gear:
a. after your newly loaded caliper is mounted over the rotor, using your T45 tool, simply measure the remaining rotational clearance between EMF/pads and the rotor with a view to placing the EMF’s extension halfway between parking brake fully applied and parking brake fully retracted;
b. Do this by counting how many rotations of the EMF gear it takes to start applying brake pad clamping on the brake rotor. THEN BACK IT OFF BY ½ AS MANY ROTATIONS AS YOU COUNTED. You can rotate the rotor about 10 to 15 degrees with no brakng force on the rotor due to the slop in the entire driveline. When you feel caliper drag on the rotor so that you can’t rotate it back/forth, you know you’re fully extended. For me it took 10 counter-clockwise quarter-rotations of the T45 tool to extend from EMF fully retracted bottomed-out (as described above) to create clamping force on pads to rotor. I then just backed-off 5 quarter-turns (clockwise) and married the black plastic electronic motor to the EMF extender in the caliper and re-installed the wheels.

Source: http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthre...4#post18650294

Good find. So it looks as if the installer would manually rotate the caliper side with T45 to make it tighten until there is no rotation of the rotor.
Then back it off enough to allow rotation of the rotor, then put the motor back in.

This would essentially stop from having to cycle the hand brake button to tighten. This could be where maybe someone might push down instead of up, causing a retract seizure since it can't make the motor physically move.
If this works for you, then I have some editing to do in the original post.

[djs95]

Originally Posted by ///Mposter

Good find. So it looks as if the installer would manually rotate the caliper side with T45 to make it tighten until there is no rotation of the rotor.
Then back it off enough to allow rotation of the rotor, then put the motor back in.

This would essentially stop from having to cycle the hand brake button to tighten. This could be where maybe someone might push down instead of up, causing a retract seizure since it can't make the motor physically move.
If this works for you, then I have some editing to do in the original post.

I had my local BMW service dept, where I have a good service "advisor", look at it quickly and they resolved it, for free, and only listed these details:

REAR BRAKES NOT CALIBRATED AFTER REAR BRAKE REPLACEMENT BY OUTSIDE SHOP. PROPERLY CALIBRATED REAR ELCTRO MECHANICAL BRAKE CALIPERS

I'm not what they exactly did to calibrate it...

[///Mposter]

Originally Posted by djs95

I had my local BMW service dept, where I have a good service "advisor", look at it quickly and they resolved it, for free, and only listed these details:

REAR BRAKES NOT CALIBRATED AFTER REAR BRAKE REPLACEMENT BY OUTSIDE SHOP. PROPERLY CALIBRATED REAR ELCTRO MECHANICAL BRAKE CALIPERS

I'm not what they exactly did to calibrate it...

That's awesome they were able to help you without bending you over! Ever since my SA left after getting sick, the new guys are not so quick to help me or give me good pricing.

[gojukai]

Originally Posted by jxterma

After zeroing the EHBrake and putting on new pads, I have an yellow light on for "Parking brake malfunction". The EHBrake cannot engage when I put the parking brake. Actuator is not turning. Do you know how to reset? Thanks in advance!

Interesting... I ran into the same problem last night...

[FranzX3M]

There are a number of different aftermarket pad sensors that range in cost. Any that should be avoided?

I've seen other post where the ebrake and piston were retracted together using a 3 pin caliper retraceor plate and tool to rotate the piston. Anyone can validate this?

If not should the ebrake seals be replaced? How much are the seals?

[dreamspeed]

does anyone have the official torque specs for the brakes?

Here is what I could gather based on the previous gen X3 and other BMWs.
Haven't been able to find any info specifically indicating the specs for a F25 X3

Caliper Guide Pins: 22 ft-lb (30 Nm)
Rotor retaining screw: 12 ft-lb (16 Nm)
Rear carrier retaining bolts: 48 ft-lb (65 Nm)
Front carrier retaining bolts: 81 ft-lb (110 Nm)

[evilchargerfan]

any one else (other than me) manage to damage the parking brake actuator in the rear?

[pungo]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

any one else (other than me) manage to damage the parking brake actuator in the rear?

What did you do that damaged it?

[evilchargerfan]

Originally Posted by pungo

What did you do that damaged it?

over torque'd the bolts and broke the plastic that surrounds said bolts

have a 3rd party replacement on the way, lets see if it works. if it doesnt, ill ebay a used oem one

[Mingstar88]

Originally Posted by Mingstar88

nice...
i just pay $70 to get someone to install my rear brakes / sensor.
im not a DIY person lol

damn just want to quote myself. definitely improved my DIY skill and it helps to have more tool necessary to do the job. just did the rear rotors and brakes today. also took the opportunity to replace the caliper slider pin. the hardest part was removing the brake calipers. the 16mm bolts were never removed before, first time replacing the rotor, car at 107,000km.

thanks for the guide again.

there are also many youtube videos online that would likely help DIYers.

[evilchargerfan]

Thought I'd share my long long journey ... at fixing my "parking brake malfunction" crisis:


https://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showt...1#post26016651


(its a long read. but I hope it helps anyone who has to suffer the same fate as I)

[titsataki]

not sure if i whould bump this thread. (a year old) if need be i can open a new one.

My car is 2015 X3 35i xdrive. a bit over 70k miles.
i have done all brake work myself. rotors/pads and fluid.

a couple weeks ago my wife complained that car makes noise. i got to look at it a week later. and low and behold the rear right disk has nice scratcfh line. used my flash light and the right right outside pad is toast. i mean metal to metal. the sensor side has a fair amount and the left side has a fair amount.

i was pissed since now i ahve to do the brakes and rottors

i set the car up and i have little controler and has an option to reset the brakes
well that was a dissaster. i guess what it did was to extend the pistons. well the right was in the car but the left was off the caliper bracket. result this stupid thing pushd the piston all the way out.. i mean out for real.

i tried in vain to push back in and called the BMW dealer and they only thing they said was new caliper. i was shoot but i ordered it. to the tune for almost $400.

in back order for 2 weeks and i am playing around and i am able to push the piston in.. but
but.. the rubber seal it no longer set poperly in the piston groove so i am now in waitning mode for the new caliper.

i was working on it this morning and new pain..
i was going to put the rest of the car together so whent the rotor comes i plug it in bleed and be done..

well the right hand caliper bracket seems to be touching the new rotor on the outside. i fumbled around a bit but when i tighten the 16 mm bolts the lower outside part comes in contact with the outside part of the rotor. i tried to adjust but no cigar.
left bracket no issues. i am even considering putting some washer while i know is a not a good idea but i am at my end of the line here.

any ideas for that stupid bracket?

regards

Nick

[pungo]

Originally Posted by titsataki

not sure if i whould bump this thread. (a year old) if need be i can open a new one.

My car is 2015 X3 35i xdrive. a bit over 70k miles.
i have done all brake work myself. rotors/pads and fluid.
a couple weeks ago my wife complained that car makes noise. i got to look at it a week later. and low and behold the rear right disk has nice scratcfh line. used my flash light and the right right outside pad is toast. i mean metal to metal. the sensor side has a fair amount and the left side has a fair amount.

i was pissed since now i ahve to do the brakes and rottors

i set the car up and i have little controler and has an option to reset the brakes
well that was a dissaster. i guess what it did was to extend the pistons. well the right was in the car but the left was off the caliper bracket. result this stupid thing pushd the piston all the way out.. i mean out for real.

i tried in vain to push back in and called the BMW dealer and they only thing they said was new caliper. i was shoot but i ordered it. to the tune for almost $400.

in back order for 2 weeks and i am playing around and i am able to push the piston in.. but
but.. the rubber seal it no longer set poperly in the piston groove so i am now in waitning mode for the new caliper.

i was working on it this morning and new pain..
i was going to put the rest of the car together so whent the rotor comes i plug it in bleed and be done..

well the right hand caliper bracket seems to be touching the new rotor on the outside. i fumbled around a bit but when i tighten the 16 mm bolts the lower outside part comes in contact with the outside part of the rotor. i tried to adjust but no cigar.
left bracket no issues. i am even considering putting some washer while i know is a not a good idea but i am at my end of the line here.

any ideas for that stupid bracket?

regards

Nick

1st, periodic visual inspection of the brake pad thickness would have prevented the metal on metal contact, especially easy to see on the outer pad, it's not like it wore-out overnight.

2nd, running a brake reset without the caliper/rotor installed sounds like a bad idea to me, but you know that know.

3rd, I used the brake service mode in ISTA which retracted the piston for easy service, then once everything was buttoned up, took it out of service mode, which reset the pistons.

4th:


I assume the bracket or rotor is not put on properly
When you did the rotor on the other side, did it fit properly?

[titsataki]

you are correct i should have checked but i did brakes 2 years ago not like first time in the 70k miles for the car.. but it is what it is.

either way i got it to work. no washers. only thing missing is the caliper.
the tool i used is a Auto Phix

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

auto Phix BMW diagnostic scanner.

i had ISTA in another laptop but that is gone now.. did not have a chance to re install in a newer machine.

I have wear indicator wire but seems to be incorrect. Way too short
mine is longer and in the right rear wheel.

part on the wear indicator wire i have is

34-35-6-790-304 03 PL

i have a new one with this part number

34-35-6-790-304 01 PL
way too short

pics

[pungo]

What was wrong that the caliper bracket was hitting the rotor? That's what I was asking for a pic.
If it were me, and the caliper/piston were in good shape, I would just put in a new seal kit ($10-$15) and be done with it.
If the brake wear sensor was not tripped, they can be reused. I've never replaced a brake sensor since I always change the pads before the sensor touches the rotor.