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      06-15-2018, 10:16 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE. View Post
what is the ''normal'' temp ?

mine is about at the 1/4 (100°C), and on hot day or hard pull, a bit before the 1/2. I never get over 120°C
Yes, that is normal.
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      06-15-2018, 10:37 AM   #112
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mine never passed 120C but im getting the error regardless
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      06-15-2018, 10:40 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mingstar88 View Post
mine never passed 120C but im getting the error regardless
wow that's strange.

any research done on other chassis with n55 on this forum?

could be the T° sensor. check if its plugged in. have you change the thermostat in the same time?
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      06-17-2018, 06:59 AM   #114
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Replaced Pump, T-Stat

After reading the official BMW instructions, the tips in this thread, and a couple of useful YouTube videos, I decided to tackle this project myself. I was a professional mechanic at a Mazda dealership a million years ago (the mid-80’s), so I have decent (if rusty) wrenching skills.

Folks, this project is no fun whatsoever. The first problem I encountered was getting the fan separated from the transmission cooler. As others have pointed out, there’s only one hex screw securing it, but after removing it, the cooler remained firmly attached. The description that the cooler is “clipped” to the fan cowl isn’t quite accurate. The cooler has a tab that slides UP into the fan cowl, so after you remove the screw, you must push the top of the cooler bracket back far enough to pull the fan cowl up and away from the cooler. It took me well over an hour to figure this out and get the fan out of the car. Once that is done, all of the work has to be done from the bottom.

I did not remove the air charge cooler, although I did remove the bottom bracket because my arm kept hitting it as I tried to remove the hoses.

Removing the hoses is very challenging. It’s like trying to do a jigsaw puzzle in the dark using chopsticks. And part of the time, one of your chopsticks is missing. It’s very difficult to get light in the work area, and it’s tough to get your hands and tools to the hose clamps. I used a 1/4” drive ratchet with a u-joint for some of the clamps and a flexible extension for others. I found that it was easiest to remove the back hose from the pump last, after removing the mounting bolts so the pump could be pulled forward a bit, allowing easier access to that clamp. Getting the bolts out of the pump isn’t too tough. I used 3/8” ratchet, extensions, and a U-Joint at the socket.

The other major difficultly was the large quick-connect coupling to thermostat. Removing the clip wasn’t too difficult, but the hose refused to release from the thermostat. You can’t get a good grip from the top or bottom to apply force at the correct angle. I just wiggled, twisted and pulled at it until it finally let go. This step took at least an hour and a tremendous amount of swearing.

Other things to know:
BMW provides no way to drain the coolant without making a huge mess, so you’re going to get coolant EVERYWHERE. Buy a large bag of oil dry before you start.

Make sure you get the large quick-connect coupling fully connected to thermostat housing. This means ensuring that you hear it firmly “click” into place when it’s seated. If you don’t, you’ll get to buy another gallon of BMW coolant and get another round of practice removing the fan and bottom cover.

This job would be much easier on a lift. It’s very difficult to get your arms/hands into the work area while lying on your back. It’s also hard to do the “top” work with the car on ramps. You’ll need something to stand on that won’t slip when you’re leaning into the engine compartment.

If you have any questions, please ask them before I repress the traumatic memories of this project.
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      06-17-2018, 07:05 AM   #115
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....and another thing!

Since this pump is electric and the pump/t-stat assembly is connected to the rest of the system only by hoses, there’s no reason whatsoever for the pump to be buried in its location. They could have mounted it anywhere in the engine compartment, and given it’s propensity for failure, it probably should be mounted right next to the cooling reservoir.
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      06-18-2018, 07:57 AM   #116
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looks like you had harder time than me.

Good point to talk about the click sound. I remember how hard it was to push the hose back. But its very easy to see if its on place. If its not connected proprely, a light pull will remove the hose from the t-stat.

its also hard to know if the hose clamps are tight enough or too tight.
not tight enough will might get into a leak, or if its too tight, it can break the water pump or t-stat housing.

BMW have this issue for a long time (n52 n54) and they still gives no access to it. The pump position on the bloc is good, but everything is there to not get the access.
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      06-18-2018, 11:01 AM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE. View Post
wow that's strange.

any research done on other chassis with n55 on this forum?

could be the T° sensor. check if its plugged in. have you change the thermostat in the same time?
thermostat and water pump were both replaced July 2017. barely 11,000km on the new parts.
indy shop i go to is closed this week too, terrible timing.

i do notice that if i don't turn on the AC, the error appears to take longer to appear. with AC on, the radiator goes crazy and within 30 mins i would get engine error. i also wonder if there's any sensor broken.
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      06-18-2018, 05:33 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mingstar88 View Post
thermostat and water pump were both replaced July 2017. barely 11,000km on the new parts.
indy shop i go to is closed this week too, terrible timing.

i do notice that if i don't turn on the AC, the error appears to take longer to appear. with AC on, the radiator goes crazy and within 30 mins i would get engine error. i also wonder if there's any sensor broken.
What codes do you get? What’s the coolant temperature at?
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      06-19-2018, 10:24 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E90705 View Post
What codes do you get? What’s the coolant temperature at?
the indy shop i went to previously is closed this week so no diagnostics now.

today was HELL. i couldn't make it to work. Almost got towed, glad was close to highway exit, managed to make it to a mall. even after letting it cooldown for 15 mins, the engine only cooled down to 95c(203 f). I try to start it again, the temperature would slowly creep up to near 120c(248f) which is when the car goes on limp mode. the pump may be completely dead now since it's just the radiator fan running full speed.

i'll have the part warrantied/exchanged, but the problem is i need another pump in the meantime. my thought is to order another water pump and get it fixed and have the exchanged one as spare..

should i skip the t-stat this time? not even 1 year old..
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      06-19-2018, 11:05 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mingstar88 View Post
the indy shop i went to previously is closed this week so no diagnostics now.

today was HELL. i couldn't make it to work. Almost got towed, glad was close to highway exit, managed to make it to a mall. even after letting it cooldown for 15 mins, the engine only cooled down to 95c(203 f). I try to start it again, the temperature would slowly creep up to near 120c(248f) which is when the car goes on limp mode. the pump may be completely dead now since it's just the radiator fan running full speed.

i'll have the part warrantied/exchanged, but the problem is i need another pump in the meantime. my thought is to order another water pump and get it fixed and have the exchanged one as spare..

should i skip the t-stat this time? not even 1 year old..
seems to be simply a rare case of DOA ( dead on arrival ).

T-stat should fail-open, so if the thermostat fail, the engine will run colder.
So yeah, seems to be the pump or a sensor.

try the air bleeding procedure, and listen to stange noise from the pump, or see if it even runs.

edit : do you have enough coolant? might be a simple 1st step to bleed the system...

Last edited by oVeRdOsE.; 06-19-2018 at 12:17 PM.
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      06-19-2018, 11:47 AM   #121
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203 and up to 248 F? Is that the reading from the cluster gauge?
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      06-19-2018, 12:34 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE. View Post
seems to be simply a rare case of DOA ( dead on arrival ).

T-stat should fail-open, so if the thermostat fail, the engine will run colder.
So yeah, seems to be the pump or a sensor.

try the air bleeding procedure, and listen to stange noise from the pump, or see if it even runs.

edit : do you have enough coolant? might be a simple 1st step to bleed the system...
i opened the reservoir yesterday, the coolant level is higher than the max label.
i'll do the bleed procedure as suggested after work.

just to add, many 2011 x3 owners had low coolant level (there's a thread about it) at some point of their ownership. the plant did not fill enough coolant. i always wondered if that lessened the life span of the original pump. but the second failure that im having is totally out of the blue, i kinda wish that it is DOA so i can get the parts replaced under warranty. i just have to chalk up the labour cost again..

Quote:
Originally Posted by E90705 View Post
203 and up to 248 F? Is that the reading from the cluster gauge?
I'm converting from Celsius. i was actively monitor the temperature meter while stopped/parked.
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      06-19-2018, 01:03 PM   #123
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Is your gauge for coolant temp? mine is for oil temp. the needle gauge in the cluster. you can find the hidden menu in the center i believe.
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      06-19-2018, 02:06 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E90705 View Post
Is your gauge for coolant temp? mine is for oil temp. the needle gauge in the cluster. you can find the hidden menu in the center i believe.
correct, the gauge is for the oil temperature to identify the engine overheating. i dont think there's a menu to check coolant temperature.
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      06-20-2018, 08:30 AM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mingstar88 View Post
correct, the gauge is for the oil temperature to identify the engine overheating. i dont think there's a menu to check coolant temperature.
wow good catch, I didn't even noticed this, since my previous cars were coolant temps.
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      06-27-2018, 01:53 PM   #126
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had the pump and t stat replaced again last week, problem is fixed now.
sucks that i had to pay labour again, at least i got replacement part under warranty. now let's see how long it will last this time.


first failure: 74,000km age 6 years
2nd failure: 86,000km age 7 years

next item on the list: the 2 oil gaskets
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      06-28-2018, 10:28 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mingstar88 View Post
had the pump and t stat replaced again last week, problem is fixed now.
sucks that i had to pay labour again, at least i got replacement part under warranty. now let's see how long it will last this time.


first failure: 74,000km age 6 years
2nd failure: 86,000km age 7 years

next item on the list: the 2 oil gaskets
looks like a bad luck with a defective part.

I did 500km on mine, hopefully I can get over your 12 000km
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      06-28-2018, 11:35 AM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mingstar88 View Post
had the pump and t stat replaced again last week, problem is fixed now.
sucks that i had to pay labour again, at least i got replacement part under warranty. now let's see how long it will last this time.


first failure: 74,000km age 6 years
2nd failure: 86,000km age 7 years

next item on the list: the 2 oil gaskets
Two oil gaskets are easy peasy compared to the WP
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      07-19-2018, 01:06 PM   #129
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Yet ANOTHER water pump failure - '13 F25 35i ...with 35k mi!

$1,500 replacement at dealer (I was on a road trip with, not near home and needed replacement asap).

Complained to BMW NA about the issue and asked for reimbursement. They told me to take a hike. Moving to MB E-class wagon.
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      07-30-2018, 11:11 AM   #130
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Luckily my extended independent warranty comes into effect.

They will cover labour and waterpump, i just have to get a t-stat myself thats all.

117,000 KM on the car.
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      07-31-2018, 12:52 PM   #131
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Mine went near late in the winter and the car had about 110,000km. Had the pump and T-stat changed. Hopefully this one goes at least that long as I already have 131,000km on the clock!

These kinds of things make me wonder if a Mercedes is a better choice for longer term owners.
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      07-31-2018, 08:43 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epiphone3 View Post
Mine went near late in the winter and the car had about 110,000km. Had the pump and T-stat changed. Hopefully this one goes at least that long as I already have 131,000km on the clock!

These kinds of things make me wonder if a Mercedes is a better choice for longer term owners.

Nah, same shit waterpump is a waterpump.

How much with labor?
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