07-20-2014, 09:10 PM | #1 |
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DIY rear brakes for the 2011 BMW x3 (35i ) chassis F25.
DIY rear brakes for the 2011 BMW x3 (35i ) chassis F25.
The reason I am writing this is because I was surprised to find out that my rear brakes had completely gone down to the metal backing without tripping the sensor. I had to park the SUV overnight while trying to source parts. I'm pretty much on top of my maintenance and even had a NC inspection just weeks before, so it baffled me as to why they wear down so fast. As I learned, rear brake biasing is used to prevent the front from dipping ,at the expense of the rear pads. My case was unique as only the outer right rear pad wore down. I believe I may have gotten only 8000 miles out of the set of pads due to the one faulty pad. Parts: Brake disc rotor 34-20-6-790-362 Rear brake pad sensor 34-35-6-790-304 Rear brake pads repair kit with bolts 34-21-6-796-741 List price: 126.44pads+41.99 pad sensor+ 148.80 rear rotor + 148.80 rear rotor.= $466 Crown BMW discounted price. 94.99pads+24.88pad sensor+ 106.29rear rotor + 106.29 rear rotor.= $354.42 Tools: Breaker bar ( cheater bar) 17mm for lug nuts Jack stands Jack Size 6 hex for rotor screw T30 for the EHBrake screws 4" or 6" extension 13mm open end wrench (caliper) (13mm socket alternative) 15mm open end wrench (caliper ) Flathead screw driver T45 for the caliper side EHbrake Large C-clamp/brake compression 16mm for caliper bracket Loosen lug bolts slightly using the 17mm socket . Jack the car up and secure using the jack stands. I used some extra wood blocks on the front tires to keep the car from rolling back and forth while removing the rear tires. Get in the car and release the parking brake. Remove the rear tires and then quickly remove the EHbrake connector on each side. If you have comfort access, keep your keys away so that you won't get the yellow brake light indication . ( the car woke up at some point and the dash lit up with the yellow brake light) Use the 6-hex to loosen the rotor screw , but you don't have to remove the screw until right before you are removing the rotor in a later step. If you are having trouble loosening this bolt, use the flat screw driver in the cooling fins of the rotor to prevent rotation of the rotor while trying to loosen the bolt. Start removing the brake pad sensor wiring & EHBrake connector from their clips and brackets so that it won't be attached to the EHbrake bracket, and will be out of the way. Use the T30 to remove the EHbrake sensor. An extension was helpful on aft side bolt( pictured left) and no extension on the forward side bolt(pictured right). Gently pull and rotate to remove the EHbrake from the caliper. Now you can loosen the caliper bolt with a 13mm wrench while holding the slider bolt with a 15mm wrench. I ended up using a 13mm socket on one that was a bit stubborn . Repeat for bottom bolt . Pull the caliper away slowly and remove the pads and prepare to remove the brake pad sensor on the inner pad. Put the caliper back in place or rest it on something. Use a flat screw driver to push the sensor off the pad. Be careful not to lose the small tension spring that holds the sensor. Notice how worn my pad was compared to a normal worn pad. You can see the sensor was never triggered for me. Moving on, using a T45 on the caliper side, insert it into the EHBrake hole and rotate it clockwise. Now you can depress the caliper piston with your thumbs , a C-clamp, or a brake compression tool. I used my thumbs . View the level of brake fluid in the reservoir . Remove some if it is too high after brake piston compression. Here is a picture of the new pads and hardware. I had to replace my rotors this time since there was surface damage . But if you didn't have to , you could skip ahead to new hardware install into the caliper bracket . I used the 16mm socket and extension to remove the caliper bracket. Now I removed the rotor bolt and also used two lug bolts so that when I kicked the rotor or use a mallet , it will not fall off and damaged foot or concrete. I then cleaned the surface of the hub with a wire brush ( optional) I installed the new rotor and re-inserted the rotor bolt. I installed the new hardware into the caliper bracket. Reinstalled the 16mm bolts. Placed the new pads into the new hardware holders. I used an orange-red brake quiet on the outer pad as I think the inner one rotates and used grease. I installed the caliper . Used the new 13mm bolts provided. Installed the pad sensor. I pushed the EHbrake wiring into the clips but did not connect the connector. Repeat removal and install for drivers side rotor and brake pads. Now clip in the EHbrake sensor on both sides. Put car to on/accessory by tapping the start button once. Put the hand brake on and listen for the EHbrake system to rotate and lock the brakes. It will be abnormally longer the first time. Cycle it a few times until it is normal (short cycle). Start the car and pump the brakes. Check to see if there is any weird noises before putting the tires on. Go back and check your work if you do hear something .
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GTX3076R , ADV, JB4, FMIC, BOV, 17"APEX, 255/40/17 SQ, 6-SPD Manual
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07-20-2014, 09:32 PM | #7 |
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Some pictures are out of order from uploading, but they should all be there.
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07-21-2014, 07:22 AM | #8 |
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Awesome writeup. We also have a 2011 that will be over 50k soon. I'm sure I'll reference this at some point down the road.
Did the onboard service indicator reset or does it still say same amount of miles to replace the rear pads? |
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07-21-2014, 08:19 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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07-21-2014, 03:14 PM | #12 |
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Perfect timing.
...edit... My car says I need rear brakes in 30kms.
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2013, AW, xDrive35i, M Sport Package, Technology Package, Dynamic Comfort Package, Premium Package, 3M Clear Bra, Euro foglight switch, a few coded fixes
Last edited by lbjgh; 07-22-2014 at 12:48 PM.. |
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07-22-2014, 10:42 AM | #13 |
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300 in savings. Awesome job
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07-23-2014, 06:37 AM | #14 |
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Excellent writeup, thanks.
Whenever I have one pad on a wheel wear out faster than the other, I assume the cause is a stuck caliper. Do BMW brake pads not have that little metal tab that drags on the rotor to indicate wear? I bet they thought their electronic indicator was superior. Sometimes simpler is better. |
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07-23-2014, 09:02 AM | #15 |
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Was Rotor replacement necessary ?
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07-23-2014, 10:47 AM | #16 |
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They don't have that metal tab unfortunately. The sensor is only on the inner pad. I tried to move it to the outer pad based on my issue, but it would not reach the other pad side. Also the sensor for the rear is only on one physical side ( passenger) .
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07-23-2014, 10:50 AM | #17 |
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Yes you could replace the pads for the rear without replacing the rotors. You can usually use two pad sets without replacement if the minimum thickness of the rotor has not been reached. Also look for hard scratches or lipping of the rotor. Autozone has the rotors for $60 each if you are on a budget.
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07-23-2014, 02:25 PM | #18 |
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A great post and really good piece of work.... great pics too... Well done @ ///MPoster
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07-23-2014, 08:00 PM | #19 |
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08-18-2014, 07:32 PM | #20 | |
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Push start button once ( no start) Door close and seat belt buckled Press and hold the instrument cluster button ( large one left side) The service menu will show up Press each time to go to the next one unless it goes directly to the brake life service. Press and hold until it asks you to reset. Press and hold to confirm You can confirm the reset in I drive menu.
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08-19-2014, 03:06 PM | #21 | |
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I purchased my X3 this weekend and went with the wheel/tire warranty beause I live in the NYC metro area and pot holes are absurd but opted out of the extended maintenance. Always been a DIY type of person but these new BMW's are a bit intimidating. What would be nice is a sticky with the following information: - list of all items covered under maintenance plan along with their estimated service interval - approximate cost of DIY with option of adding in labor charge - link to DIY This will help guide pre owned X3 purchasers on what should and should not be purchased along with being a useful lookup for those planning on holding onto their vehicles for extended periods of time. |
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08-20-2014, 12:39 PM | #22 |
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sorry pgviper, I don't have the US costs but recently a local dealership replaced my rear pads and sensor for $230... parts and labour.
I'm usually a DYI guy myself but for that price I wasn't going to get my hands dirty
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