[Wildhund]

Hello guys, got an X3 28i 2013 with 113,000KM or 70,000miles. The warning light for my rear brake pads stayed for a long time at the same KM warning, now the last month it slowly went down to officially say brake pads due and I'm already in the red by 500 KM!
Is there an actual sensor (laser?) that checks the thickness of my pads once they get low?
1. Do the OEM pads eventually screech like my old Honda pads did when it gets lower? Because for now I have not noticed any braking problem or vibrations.
2. Will the dealership try to sell me the discs to replace too? Is it necessary or will they only change the rear pads?

My oil change is due in 2000 KM, so I was thinking at least to do both at the same time with one visit.
Thanks!

[Bilbofraggins]

Originally Posted by Wildhund

Hello guys, got an X3 28i 2013 with 113,000KM or 70,000miles. The warning light for my rear brake pads stayed for a long time at the same KM warning, now the last month it slowly went down to officially say brake pads due and I'm already in the red by 500 KM!
Is there an actual sensor (laser?) that checks the thickness of my pads once they get low?
1. Do the OEM pads eventually screech like my old Honda pads did when it gets lower? Because for now I have not noticed any braking problem or vibrations.
2. Will the dealership try to sell me the discs to replace too? Is it necessary or will they only change the rear pads?

My oil change is due in 2000 KM, so I was thinking at least to do both at the same time with one visit.
Thanks!

Nope the Idrive vehicle status indicators are just km rundown.

If the sensor is worn and triggered you’ll get a dash light..

If your on original rotors, you can get away with a pad only change if the rotors are in good shape. Our original rotors just disintegrated... so we had to do rotors and pads...Used coated Brembos... no rust so far.

Find a good Indy and save...

[Wgosma]

As stated already, your warning is the go/no go wear sensor and corresponding dash lamp. Pay heed to that.

Rotors have a minimum allowable thickness- needs to be checked physically with calipers to determine actual thickness. If below minimum rotors should be replaced along with pads.

Independent shop should save money compared to Stealer.

[omasou]

This explains the sensor well.

https://www.youcanic.com/guide/bmw-b...ad-wear-sensor

1. BMW, MB, etc design the pads and rotors to wear together, stop well and all with the least noise/squeal possible. One reason BMW pads generate so much dust.

2. I always replace rotors and pads together but I do my own brakes. That said when BMW replaces the rear pads under warranty if the rotor is not worn past spec., which they should not be for the first change with that rotor, they will only replace the pads. Though I have read recently, that the rear pads are wearing faster on the newer X cars b/c BMW has programmed the rear brakes to grab more than in the past so the car doesn't nose dive as much. Not sure if this true or not?

Waiting depends on how much material you have left, your daily drive distance and time to that appointment. Look under the metal part of the pad and see how much material you have left. If you cannot see well, pull the wheel and check.

BTW, not sure if there is a similar program available up north but the prices are very competitive or cheaper than going to an independant for oil changes, pad changes and alignments.

https://bmwusaservice.com/valueservice

EDIT: seems there is...

https://www.bmw.ca/en/topics/owners/...rvice_packages

[Fast4d]

our X3 2.8 has about the same mileage. we got the service brakes warning. it appears to be scheduled in the service reminder because it had a count down warning way ahead of time.

I can eyeball the pads and see I still have 1/4 inch left. I measured the rotors because I want all the parts on hand when it's time to do the job. you'll VERY likely need new rotors as mine are worn more than half way to minimum. so they won't last the life of a new set of pads.

my pads, rotors and sensor came to $100 USD from rock auto. bought ceramic pads to reduce dusting. This is a grocery getter so no need for high performance parts. At least in the rear.

[Bilbofraggins]

OEM quality - Original Rotors...3 years and 25,000 miles....Total OEM crap. Do you think I went back to the dealer for seconds?

[Wgosma]

....relocation somewhere South of the Arctic Circle is the fix 😉

[malicem3]

Originally Posted by Bilbofraggins

OEM quality - Original Rotors...3 years and 25,000 miles....Total OEM crap. Do you think I went back to the dealer for seconds?

This has got use of salt on the roads.

I've had great experiences with Zimmerman rotors too.

[Bilbofraggins]

Originally Posted by malicem3

This has got use of salt on the roads.

I've had great experiences with Zimmerman rotors too.

Of course salt is a factor....but this has never happened before...on any vehicle we have owned.

The E90 in our drive still has the original rear rotors, and only had new front last year. It's an 08.

On the F25, I replaced with BREMBO front and rear, they have no rust so far, 8 months on. The BMW ones had rusted hats within weeks of leaving the lot.

The BREMBO rears had a laquer finish over the coating on the rears, the front did not...similar to Zimmerman. I'm interested to see how they fair.

[Opie55]

Originally Posted by Wildhund

Hello guys, got an X3 28i 2013 with 113,000KM or 70,000miles. The warning light for my rear brake pads stayed for a long time at the same KM warning, now the last month it slowly went down to officially say brake pads due and I'm already in the red by 500 KM!
Is there an actual sensor (laser?) that checks the thickness of my pads once they get low?
1. Do the OEM pads eventually screech like my old Honda pads did when it gets lower? Because for now I have not noticed any braking problem or vibrations.
2. Will the dealership try to sell me the discs to replace too? Is it necessary or will they only change the rear pads?

My oil change is due in 2000 KM, so I was thinking at least to do both at the same time with one visit.
Thanks!

The best thing to do in your circumstance is to be able to look yourself at the brake pads. The counter in your IDrive may bear no relationship whatsoever to how much pad life you have left. Just get a small dental mirror with a swivel head at the auto parts store and a small flashlight. It's not hard to see the edges of the pads. If they are down to 1/8" or so, then you might as well get them done if your car is going in anyway - but use an Indy, not a dealer. But if they are 1/4", you may get another year out of them depending on how you drive.

[Fast4d]

the centric rear rotors I got (great price) has all surfaces machined like the zimmerman rotors.

centric owns stoptech so I gave them a try.

[badgesnob]

Originally Posted by Fast4d

I measured the rotors because I want all the parts on hand when it's time to do the job. you'll VERY likely need new rotors as mine are worn more than half way to minimum. so they won't last the life of a new set of pads.

What are the thicknesses for the rotors, as I had them replaced approximately two years ago, along with the pads?

I'm due for new rear pads in about 2000 KMs.

I am willing to do the pads my self, but now that I've read that the rotors need to be replaced as well, I'm not quite so confident.

Don't they need to be balanced?

My local indy said they were fine, when i had brake fluid change about a month ago.

Car is mostly used for school runs, grocery trips, and occasional weekend drive.

I'd like to measure them and see for my self.

Regards,

[pungo]

Minimum rotor thickness is 18.4mm. No need to balance new rotors.

[TEF]

Bilbo you are not alone with rusting calipers and rotors. I changed to winter wheels and tires and noted that my calipers were a rusty mess too. I had changed out my rotors last year with cheap ones from Amazon and those are holding up better than the OE ones. Frankly, the only warped rotor I've ever had came as the OE one on my BMW X3. Agree with your sentiments concerning "not going back for seconds". By the way, switching away from OE semi-metallic pads also helps with the life of rotors - much less scoring and wear.

[badgesnob]

Originally Posted by TEF

Bilbo you are not alone with rusting calipers and rotors. I changed to winter wheels and tires and noted that my calipers were a rusty mess too. I had changed out my rotors last year with cheap ones from Amazon and those are holding up better than the OE ones. Frankly, the only warped rotor I've ever had came as the OE one on my BMW X3. Agree with your sentiments concerning "not going back for seconds". By the way, switching away from OE semi-metallic pads also helps with the life of rotors - much less scoring and wear.

Did you swap out the rotors your self? Was it just a straight forward, or did you have to get them balanced? This is what my indy has told me.

Regards,

[TEF]

I did front and rear pads and rotors as DIY project and it wasn't difficult. As for balancing rotors, I'd think your Indy mechanics is screwing with you, but you're sure he is serious? Please asked him what equipment he uses for that task. FYI, rotors are typically balanced by the manufacturer and done by milling away small portions of the outer edge of a rotor.

[badgesnob]

Originally Posted by pungo

Minimum rotor thickness is 18.4mm. No need to balance new rotors.

I've got 20mm left. Just did the pads. Thought I'd leave the rotors for next time.

[TEF]

While this questions comes under "Rear Brake Pads", it's also related to wear:

At the 30K mark, I had a warped front rotor, so I decided to replace, as a DYI project, the X3's pads, rotors and sensors. At the same time, I replaced the same brake parts in the rear.

My X3 is now at 50K miles and when using the X3's "Vehicle" advisory feature on the center screen, I have the option of viewing the status of front and rear brakes. Per this feature, the front pads are to be replaced in 20K miles and the rear pads in only 7K miles.

If both front and rear pads were changed at 30K miles, why the huge disparity in wear (the rear's versus the front's)? BTW, a visual check of both front and rear pads indicate that both are almost new with an equal thickness of friction material on each end. Secondly, I did not reset anything in the X3's system on the assumption that is the function of brake sensors.

[najnad]

Originally Posted by TEF

While this questions comes under "Rear Brake Pads", it's also related to wear:

At the 30K mark, I had a warped front rotor, so I decided to replace, as a DYI project, the X3's pads, rotors and sensors. At the same time, I replaced the same brake parts in the rear.

My X3 is now at 50K miles and when using the X3's "Vehicle" advisory feature on the center screen, I have the option of viewing the status of front and rear brakes. Per this feature, the front pads are to be replaced in 20K miles and the rear pads in only 7K miles.

If both front and rear pads were changed at 30K miles, why the huge disparity in wear (the rear's versus the front's)? BTW, a visual check of both front and rear pads indicate that both are almost new with an equal thickness of friction material on each end. Secondly, I did not reset anything in the X3's system on the assumption that is the function of brake sensors.

You didnt reset anything, thats your problem. The brake sensors will trigger a warning light when the pads are too low. The miles until replacement in your idrive display is merely a function of your driving and needs to be reset when the pads are changed.

[TEF]

To start from the beginning, the X3 was purchased new. Then at 30K miles, both front and rear brakes were replaced. The brake monitor was not reset. At 50K miles, the "Vehicle" advisory system now tells me that the front brakes are good for 20K miles while the rear are good for only 7k miles. Are you saying that the rear brakes on an X3 wear three times faster than the fronts (and the vehicle's electronics can detect this)? That disparity of wear between the front and rear brakes seems incredible on a front-engined vehicle. How and why?

[pungo]

Originally Posted by TEF

To start from the beginning, the X3 was purchased new. Then at 30K miles, both front and rear brakes were replaced. The brake monitor was not reset. At 50K miles, the "Vehicle" advisory system now tells me that the front brakes are good for 20K miles while the rear are good for only 7k miles. Are you saying that the rear brakes on an X3 wear three times faster than the fronts (and the vehicle's electronics can detect this)? That disparity of wear between the front and rear brakes seems incredible on a front-engined vehicle. How and why?

What is the measurement of the pad material left on the front vs the rear? I would not trust the computer calculation to determine the physical wear of the pad material.

[najnad]

Originally Posted by TEF

To start from the beginning, the X3 was purchased new. Then at 30K miles, both front and rear brakes were replaced. The brake monitor was not reset. At 50K miles, the "Vehicle" advisory system now tells me that the front brakes are good for 20K miles while the rear are good for only 7k miles. Are you saying that the rear brakes on an X3 wear three times faster than the fronts (and the vehicle's electronics can detect this)? That disparity of wear between the front and rear brakes seems incredible on a front-engined vehicle. How and why?

The computer just estimates brake wear based on your mileage and driving patterns. It does not actually measure brake wear.

Plus, BMW has calibrated the rear brakes to brake harder than on the typical vehicle to minimize "nose dive" during braking. This is why the computer estimates increased wear on the rear brakes vs front brakes.

Finally, you said the vehicle was new...so at 50k, the front brakes estimate total life is 70k and the rear brakes total life is 57k...thats not three times faster.