[German1967]

I need a new battery for a 2016 X3 2.8 xDrive and I cannot find one. Dealer has no inventory and no ETA on back-order. I am told it is a 105AH AGM. The original 80AH (?) seems no longer on sale.

Anybody have an idea where to get a fitting battery?

Thanks.

[bpwj76]

I replaced my wife's battery in her 2016 X3 Sdrive28i last month. The original was a 105ah and the dealer had the replacement 105ah in stock. I think you'd be fine with a 105ah instead of a 80ah, you just wouldn't want one that's less than that. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong. I'd say you should be able to find a suitable AGM battery at just about any auto parts store.

[Wgosma]

Should be at most any parts store as mentioned- I had Pep Boys install and register AGM battery in my 2012 X3 about 3 years ago- $215, reasonable price.

[bpwj76]

Originally Posted by Wgosma

Should be at most any parts store as mentioned- I had Pep Boys install and register AGM battery in my 2012 X3 about 3 years ago- $215, reasonable price.

Yeah, I forgot to mention cost. Dealer charged $208 for the battery and I paid the $30 for Bimmerlink to register it myself. None of the local parts places could register it for me. Figured I'd probably need to do it again at some point. Although the original battery lasted 6.5 years with periodic charging via a battery tender.

[German1967]

Thanks, guys!

[AP3]

I just replaced mine. Original was 90Ah, but I replaced with a 105Ah (both AGM).

I had to change the Ah value coded with bimmercode, and then register the new battery with bimmerlink. Kinda annoying that you need both apps to complete the process, but I had them anyway.

[tracer bullet]

It's probably already been well said, but to add on, yeah you can get a bigger one. Just be sure it's not larger than I believe "H9" and that it is AGM. I feel like I started with H7 and know that I put in an H9. I think they are just a little wider but still lock into place.

I coded with the Carly app but also already had it. Used it to get rid of the seatbelt reminder gong (I use the belts, just hate the noise), the disclaimer screen, and so forth.

[okayr]

Got an Interstate MTX-95R/H9 (100aH / 950CCA) on recommendation from the dealership since they've been unable to order for 6+ months, was near half the price of what BMW wanted for their nonexistent battery, and got it registered for free with another service at my local indy shop. It's turned the car over no problem in 5ºF weather after sitting for a couple of days and start stops flawlessly.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by okayzac

Got an Interstate MTX-95R/H9 (100aH / 950CCA) on recommendation from the dealership since they've been unable to order for 6+ months, was near half the price of what BMW wanted for their nonexistent battery, and got it registered for free with another service at my local indy shop. It's turned the car over no problem in 5ºF weather after sitting for a couple of days and start stops flawlessly.

Curious what value people use to code a 100AH batt, since AFAIK, the CAS module doesn't have 100 as a parameter, the 2 closest are 90 or 105?
You'd think 105 would slightly overcharge it while 90 would undercharging it. Undercharging seems better for the batt than overcharging

[okayr]

Originally Posted by pungo

Curious what value people use to code a 100AH batt, since AFAIK, the CAS module doesn't have 100 as a parameter, the 2 closest are 90 or 105?
You'd think 105 would slightly overcharge it while 90 would undercharging it. Undercharging seems better for the batt than overcharging

It's set to 105. I'm curious as to why that was picked now too but I figure 90 is -10 and 105 is only 5+. Maybe the IBS can prevent overcharging while undercharging would be more likely if set too low? Our batteries normally sit between 60-90% too.

[richardodn]

Originally Posted by pungo

Curious what value people use to code a 100AH batt, since AFAIK, the CAS module doesn't have 100 as a parameter, the 2 closest are 90 or 105?
You'd think 105 would slightly overcharge it while 90 would undercharging it. Undercharging seems better for the batt than overcharging

I'd just go nearest neighbor. Keep in mind that different manufacturers might measure in slightly different ways. Is that 105 Ah battery truly 105 or just pretty close? I'm sure the adaptive charging circuits will figure it out if it's close. What's more important is that the right type of battery is specified; AGM vs sealed lead acid.

[kevink1]

I still don't know why my replacement attempt from an auto parts store went awry. Maybe something wasn't tight, though I double checked everything. Things were so bad that Carly thought about everything was failing, and car would crank but not start, etc.

Luckily for me, I tried a different BMW dealership which was about 1/2 the closest dealership to me, so my net cost wasn't that bad.

[richardodn]

I finally got around to replacing my battery today. My 2012 originally came speced with a H8 90 Ah battery. I replaced it with the AutoZone Duralast H8-AGM. It wasn't rated for Ah, but other specs were the same as the Advance Auto DieHard brand so I'd guess rated right around 95Ah. In picking one out, I came to the realization that if your original was AGM

105 Ah, you want an H9-AGM battery
90 Ah, go with H8-AGM
80 Ah, go with H7-AGM

Those are also the 3 sized that physically fit. Do that and you should be close enough. Why BMW specified it using Ah, a measure of storage batteries, not starting batteries, I'll never know.

Also, current battery was the original one from 2012. It was on it's last legs but still continued to start the car. I ran the history function on it before I replaced it and it was only getting around 60% charge. Usually that was enough except when it was well below freezing out. Then it would just get flakey. Most often it wouldn't detect the key via the comfort access system right away. I'd wait a few moments and just try again. It probably helped that the 2012 doesn't have stop/start.