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      12-08-2019, 06:27 AM   #1
rothwem
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How are the F25 X3s holding up?

Hey guys, looking for a new vehicle for my wife. The CPO F25 X3s are coming down into our price range (<$27,000) and I think they drive pretty well for what they are.

Any major problem areas? We like to keep our cars for a long time, so we're going to try to get 200k out of this one. Thoughts on the 4cyl vs 6? Do these have the b58 and b48 in the later (2016-17) cars?
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      12-08-2019, 10:11 AM   #2
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Two choices, N20 4-banger turbo or N55 6 cyl turbo. (2011-2012 model years, which I own avail w/N52 6 cyl non-turbo)

I'd be wary of the 4 banger pre 2015 model year as BMW had problems w/timing chain guide failures - they did not recall but extended warranty to 7 years / 70K miles as I recall. Redesign of guides was done in late 2014 or thereabouts.

I've owned Bimmers for 15 years, DIY a good deal of my service/repairs -purchased 2012 X3 1 1/2 years ago from original owner, 52K miles on clock at purchase, now at 76K miles. Nothing major has 'broken', just replaced the valve cover and oil filter housing gaskets as they began to seep, typical on virtually every BMW. I had shop drain/fill auto trans and xfer case w/new 'lifetime' fluid and reset AWD adaptations, smoother operation noted. I've replaced/flushed the coolant, preventative replaced serpentine belt and belt tensioner/pulley. Remember, I'm running non-turbo 6 motor, so no experience with turbo.

Only somewhat pricey/common repair item I've read about is low mileage failure of (electric) water pumps on turbo 6 motors; it's a $1200+ repair, many posts on forum about failures at 50-70K miles.

I have kept 3 sedans to over 200K, this car I plan to keep to 150K or more - so far it feels like it will go the distance w/proper preventative maintenance as my previous sedans. Change the 'lifetime fluids' as your intending high-mileage ownership, that's a must do in my book.

(I were you, I'd lean towards the turbo 6 motor, BMW's I-6 motors are pretty bullet-proof).

Good luck shopping /Bill

Last edited by Wgosma; 12-08-2019 at 10:17 AM..
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      12-08-2019, 02:45 PM   #3
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Stay away from the 4 cylinder model as bill already said
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      12-08-2019, 04:13 PM   #4
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I agree with Bill. I also would lean to a turbo 6. Had the I-6 now the turbo and the power difference is worth it especially for mountain roads. Do the preventative maintenance and change the oil 4-5K and it should be well worth the investment. Have been driving BMW's since '86
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      12-08-2019, 07:18 PM   #5
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Get the N55 (35i model). Much more reliable engine and easily tunable to 360-400 whp if you are so inclined
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      12-08-2019, 10:27 PM   #6
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2011 35i w/60k miles, only repair has been a VCG and normal maintenance.

No disrespect to 4 cyl owners... The 4 cyl can pull the vehicle around ok, but it's asking allot out of that little engine to propel a 4200 lb AWD vehicle, especially in a hilly area or for someone with a heavy foot. I would stick with an I6.
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      12-09-2019, 04:59 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
F25 motors:
Two choices, N20 4-banger turbo or N55 6 cyl turbo. (2011-2012 model years, which I own avail w/N52 6 cyl non-turbo)

I'd be wary of the 4 banger pre 2015 model year as BMW had problems w/timing chain guide failures - they did not recall but extended warranty to 7 years / 70K miles as I recall. Redesign of guides was done in late 2014 or thereabouts.

I've owned Bimmers for 15 years, DIY a good deal of my service/repairs -purchased 2012 X3 1 1/2 years ago from original owner, 52K miles on clock at purchase, now at 76K miles. Nothing major has 'broken', just replaced the valve cover and oil filter housing gaskets as they began to seep, typical on virtually every BMW. I had shop drain/fill auto trans and xfer case w/new 'lifetime' fluid and reset AWD adaptations, smoother operation noted. I've replaced/flushed the coolant, preventative replaced serpentine belt and belt tensioner/pulley. Remember, I'm running non-turbo 6 motor, so no experience with turbo.

Only somewhat pricey/common repair item I've read about is low mileage failure of (electric) water pumps on turbo 6 motors; it's a $1200+ repair, many posts on forum about failures at 50-70K miles.

I have kept 3 sedans to over 200K, this car I plan to keep to 150K or more - so far it feels like it will go the distance w/proper preventative maintenance as my previous sedans. Change the 'lifetime fluids' as your intending high-mileage ownership, that's a must do in my book.

(I were you, I'd lean towards the turbo 6 motor, BMW's I-6 motors are pretty bullet-proof).

Good luck shopping /Bill
Hey thanks for the info. I've currently got an E91 with the N52 naturally aspirated motor. It's fairly reliable, but it's getting up in miles and it's needed a steady diet of parts in the last few months (radiator, CCV hose, water pump, radiator hoses, VANOS solenoids, etc). I don't find it too overly difficult to DIY it.

Thoughts on N52 vs N55 DIY-ability?

I am very surprised to hear that the N55 is a more reliable motor than the N20 though. I thought the N20 was basically the same engine with less cylinders. I was leaning 4 cylinder since my wife doesn't care about acceleration and the extra MPGs would be nice on road trips. I'll just have to let her know that we NEED 300 hp.
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      12-09-2019, 08:40 AM   #8
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N52 lacks power compared to N55 w/turbo; my 2012 model year car has the N52 and personally its fine for me on power - I wanted that motor as it's got less moving parts (no turbo) so in my estimation bit simpler design = bit more reliable, less moving parts to wear out/break.

But remember, N52 only available in 2011-2012 model years.

I drove models with N20; they run along fine, bit different feel to power delivery compared to 6 cylinder- if you go that route buy 2016 or later model year car.

Also, sport seats in the F25 are IMO significantly better than regular seats- check into that aspect also.

Bill
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      12-09-2019, 12:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
N52 lacks power compared to N55 w/turbo; my 2012 model year car has the N52 and personally its fine for me on power - I wanted that motor as it's got less moving parts (no turbo) so in my estimation bit simpler design = bit more reliable, less moving parts to wear out/break.

But remember, N52 only available in 2011-2012 model years.

I drove models with N20; they run along fine, bit different feel to power delivery compared to 6 cylinder- if you go that route buy 2016 or later model year car.

Also, sport seats in the F25 are IMO significantly better than regular seats- check into that aspect also.

Bill
Right, yeah. If we get one of these, it'll be CPO, which means 2016+ only. However, it appears that they gutted the CPO program lately, so maybe we'll be going Japanese again for the wife's car.
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      12-09-2019, 05:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
Also, sport seats in the F25 are IMO significantly better than regular seats- check into that aspect also.

Bill
I had never test driven a car with the sports seat when I bought my car. In fact, I avoided some extra options since I feared that they would become MUST HAVES

Such as dynamic handling package, the seats, etc. The car was more than I really wanted to spend anyway.

But I've done sport seats in loaners, and are noticeably better. Luckily, after a couple days (and adjustments), I'm back to normal in my car. Still the best seats, to me, than any car I've owned.
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      12-09-2019, 05:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevink1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
Also, sport seats in the F25 are IMO significantly better than regular seats- check into that aspect also.

Bill
I had never test driven a car with the sports seat when I bought my car. In fact, I avoided some extra options since I feared that they would become MUST HAVES

Such as dynamic handling package, the seats, etc. The car was more than I really wanted to spend anyway.

But I've done sport seats in loaners, and are noticeably better. Luckily, after a couple days (and adjustments), I'm back to normal in my car. Still the best seats, to me, than any car I've owned.
I bought my car from private seller/original owner, it's sort of bare bones- just sport seats, xenon lamps and the convenience opening thing...no sunroof, parking distance, backup camera- nothing.
It was the first X3 I test drove- after driving 5 other nicely equipped cars w/regular seats I bought the first car-was just sold on the sport seats!
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      12-10-2019, 09:27 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevink1 View Post
I had never test driven a car with the sports seat when I bought my car. In fact, I avoided some extra options since I feared that they would become MUST HAVES

Such as dynamic handling package, the seats, etc. The car was more than I really wanted to spend anyway.

But I've done sport seats in loaners, and are noticeably better. Luckily, after a couple days (and adjustments), I'm back to normal in my car. Still the best seats, to me, than any car I've owned.
My wife is not a fan of the sport seats in my E91, so any F25 we get will likely not have the sport seats.
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      12-10-2019, 09:41 AM   #13
Wgosma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rothwem View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevink1 View Post
I had never test driven a car with the sports seat when I bought my car. In fact, I avoided some extra options since I feared that they would become MUST HAVES

Such as dynamic handling package, the seats, etc. The car was more than I really wanted to spend anyway.

But I've done sport seats in loaners, and are noticeably better. Luckily, after a couple days (and adjustments), I'm back to normal in my car. Still the best seats, to me, than any car I've owned.
My wife is not a fan of the sport seats in my E91, so any F25 we get will likely not have the sport seats.
That will probably widen the number of available cars.

Watch out for runflats; I drove several cars fitted with those darn tires, poor ride quality- car I ended up buying had regular tires and really a lot more comfy ride. (I carry compressor, plugs kit and jack...your wife can probably just use AAA or other roadside service)- flats are pretty rare in my experience.
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      12-10-2019, 01:22 PM   #14
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You do need to add $1200 for a water pump if you go for the I6. TBh I'd go the 2T for the wife, you will save quite a bit on fuel and that damn water pump.
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      12-10-2019, 03:22 PM   #15
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You do need to add $1200 for a water pump if you go for the I6. TBh I'd go the 2T for the wife, you will save quite a bit on fuel and that damn water pump.
So the water pump is solid on the N20 then?
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      12-10-2019, 05:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
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So the water pump is solid on the N20 then?
I have a 2013 X3 with the N20 and had to replace the water pump at 63K miles.
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      12-10-2019, 08:27 PM   #17
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Wife drives our 2016 diesel with about 55k miles. Bought it with like 42k. It’s been solid. Interior fit and finish is still good, just normal wear & tear, no real squeaks or rattles. Had to do the rear wheel bearings this past summer. Tension struts in the front are getting worn, will do them in the spring. Otherwise just oil changes so far.
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      12-11-2019, 05:20 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rothwem View Post
So the water pump is solid on the N20 then?
I have a 2013 X3 with the N20 and had to replace the water pump at 63K miles.
Did you DIY it? If so, how'd it go?
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      12-11-2019, 06:23 AM   #19
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I have a 2016 X3 35i, with 65000 miles. I bought it pre-owned (previous owner drove primarily highway miles) and has been a joy to drive! I had an independent mechanic change sparkplugs, perform alignment, brake/rotors changed (all routine PM). The I6 power is great and the sport seats are the most comfortable, supportive seats I have ever experienced. I have had many brands of cars, SUVs, and truck over the years, and I will have to say, hands down, this is my favorite vehicle so far - the quality and ride is phenomenal! The only thing I would recommend is going to non-runflat tires.
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      12-11-2019, 07:52 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Did you DIY it? If so, how'd it go?
No, happened while I was visiting family in N.Y., on my way down I got a warning I was low on coolant, added some and 50 miles later it was warning me again. It paid somewhere around $650 to have it replaced.

fwiw: a couple of years earlier under extended warranty I had the coolant thermostat.

-Bruce
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      12-11-2019, 08:52 AM   #21
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Did you DIY it? If so, how'd it go?
Apparently it is way easier on the 2T, on the I6 it has been described as "doing a jigsaw puzzle with chop sticks, in the dark, upside down".
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      12-11-2019, 01:06 PM   #22
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on the topic of things "holding up" , my glove box is starting to ... for lack of better words .... "PEEL" . the leather is separating from the glove box storage bin itself

(2012, 114k miles)
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