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      06-06-2021, 02:44 AM   #1409
Axix23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///minh View Post
I might have a person for ya but he's in New York. You would need to fly there to do the paperwork etc and then ship or drive your car back home.
Agg. I never bought a car out of state before. I would rather do it in GA if possible unless it’s just a crazy good deal! And definitely not it driving it back home if I did. Lol
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      06-06-2021, 07:08 AM   #1410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axix23 View Post
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Originally Posted by ///minh View Post
Thank you so much.

So let say my build sheet for 2022my is 85k, what can one say or do to get 9-10% off of that price?
When you find out, let me know too please~!!!!!!!!!!
I might have a person for ya but he's in New York. You would need to fly there to do the paperwork etc and then ship or drive your car back home.
You can do paperwork entirely via mail. Pickup is different story, shipping , driving back or pcd are your options
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      06-06-2021, 07:22 PM   #1411
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Some dealerships are entirely e-sign now if you don't come in. Wire them the money and do the docs online same day.
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      06-07-2021, 10:23 PM   #1412
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That's what I thought too. But I was told half can be done online via docusign etc but then I would have to fly in to finish the rest. Not sure what the rest is.

On another note, never finance/lease a new car through dealers before.

This might be a stupid question but do you guys prefer leasing over financing? I know there are pros and cons to both. I just don't know which one I would do.
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      06-08-2021, 02:58 PM   #1413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///minh View Post
That's what I thought too. But I was told half can be done online via docusign etc but then I would have to fly in to finish the rest. Not sure what the rest is.

On another note, never finance/lease a new car through dealers before.

This might be a stupid question but do you guys prefer leasing over financing? I know there are pros and cons to both. I just don't know which one I would do.
I own the cars I drive and lease the one my wife drives. It all depends on what you want to do.

If you intend to truly own the car for a period of time (more than 3 years), I would think some type of financing would be best. Depending on your state, I have to pay all of the sales tax due at the beginning of the deal if I am not trading in a vehicle. So, those are some of the factors.

On my wife’s vehicle, I try to keep her in something under warranty and fresh. We trade her vehicle every three years and really run about the same mileage 25k - 30k over three years. A lease works good since I know the fixed cost all of the way thru and sales tax is paid each month. I basically pay “for what I use”. I am not sure I would do this with any other car except a BMW. BMW FS seems to have really refined this much better than other manufacturers.

As with any deal, there are times you can cut a really good deal with incentives and other times not. How you pay for it (lease/finance) does not impact how good of a deal you can get. It does impact how much you spend and which one is the better financial decision. Financing will require negotiation when you purchase and when you sale/trade. Leasing is one negotiation up front that defines what you pay and the remaining value (residual) when you relinquish possession.

With BMW FS, it is very hard to buy a lease out at the end and make it work financially. The residual will typically have you upside down (i.e. you can buy the same car on the used market cheaper than buying the car you are driving). Pandemic situation has flipped that upside down currently, but it will most likely change.
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      06-08-2021, 03:46 PM   #1414
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ChipC's post is spot on.

A few more things to consider...

MF=Money Factor = interest rate when leasing. Multiply MF by 2400 to get true interest rate. I've seen a lot of deals that looked good on "negotiated price" but the dealer made up for it by increasing the money factor. Use the LEASEHACKR calculator to help you figure out how much a lease really costs.

MSD=Multiple Security Deposit. Basically, you're fronting some money to finance the lease. Rather than CASH at signing you're better off doing MSDs. You'll get that money back at the end of the lease.

Buying a car off a lease generally doesn't make much sense in the total price paid. You will pay thousands more if you do this rather than buying up front.

There are many good articles on the internet about leasing vs buying and car negotiation. You can ask this board about specific BMW stuff.
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      06-10-2021, 07:02 AM   #1415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daytona_John View Post
I would love to get connected to a good source for a non-comp X3M. I’m planning on doing a performance center delivery so I’m location agnostic. Dealers I’ve spoken to locally here in Ohio are not very good on price.
Agreed...I am in Cinci and had a hell of a time dealing with the 2 dealers here. BMW Store hooked me up in the past but they are just not budging right now.

FWIW I used a broker on LeaseHacker to get 12% off pre-incentive on an X3M that was outside of Philly. I used skymiles miles to fly up and drive it home. I suggest checking their price sheets - most in stock units are 10-11% off pre-incentive on the broker sheets if you are willing to travel/ship. 9-10% off orders the last I looked if you are going PCD route.
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      06-10-2021, 07:08 AM   #1416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socalhawki View Post
ChipC's post is spot on.

A few more things to consider...

MF=Money Factor = interest rate when leasing. Multiply MF by 2400 to get true interest rate. I've seen a lot of deals that looked good on "negotiated price" but the dealer made up for it by increasing the money factor. Use the LEASEHACKR calculator to help you figure out how much a lease really costs.

MSD=Multiple Security Deposit. Basically, you're fronting some money to finance the lease. Rather than CASH at signing you're better off doing MSDs. You'll get that money back at the end of the lease.

Buying a car off a lease generally doesn't make much sense in the total price paid. You will pay thousands more if you do this rather than buying up front.

There are many good articles on the internet about leasing vs buying and car negotiation. You can ask this board about specific BMW stuff.
One last thing I always note on lease v. purchase...risk mitigation and predictable cash flows. Service is covered during the lease so you know exactly how much the vehicle will cost over the 3 years (lease payments + maybe tires/wipers). With a purchase, once you are past the warranty/service period, it is on you...and that can get expensive quickly starting year 4 (unless you buy extended, which costs money).

Risk mitigation: i am sure this depends on your insurance provider, but if you are ever in a non-total loss accident (i.e. wrecked, fixed with a known accident on the carfax), under a lease you are covered via BMW provided gap insurance...you just turn the car in at the end the they cover any difference between residual/value of the vehicle after the wreck. If you own the car, you will be in a battle to get reimbursed for that loss of value and likely will not be made whole (at least in my experience, others may vary).

plus i like new shiny things every 3 years.
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      06-11-2021, 05:06 PM   #1417
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just picked up my 2021 toronto red X3MC

MSRP 83,400
monthly $1067
no money down, drive off costs first months payment, taxes, and fees amounted to $3200
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      06-11-2021, 05:19 PM   #1418
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      06-14-2021, 12:10 PM   #1419
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2021 Donington Gray with Sakhir Orange X3MC
$84,395
$73,500 including 3K rebates (Loyalty, Lease, Charge into Summer)
36/12K
$7,000 MSDs
Drive offs $2000 (Acquisition and Fees and Taxes. CALI )
$951 Monthly
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Last edited by socalhawki; 06-14-2021 at 12:15 PM.. Reason: Update
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      06-14-2021, 07:51 PM   #1420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socalhawki View Post
2021 Donington Gray with Sakhir Orange X3MC
$84,395
$73,500 including 3K rebates (Loyalty, Lease, Charge into Summer)
36/12K
$7,000 MSDs
Drive offs $2000 (Acquisition and Fees and Taxes. CALI )
$951 Monthly
Not bad man & congratulations on this. That's the color combo I wanted with my first X3 M. What's this new "charge into summer" rebate you mentioned... ?
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      06-15-2021, 09:30 AM   #1421
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https://www.bmwofbakersfield.com/cha...er-sales-event

The sign up and visit window has passed but the OL code was good all summer.
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Last edited by socalhawki; 06-15-2021 at 09:40 AM.. Reason: clarity
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      06-17-2021, 03:36 AM   #1422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socalhawki View Post
2021 Donington Gray with Sakhir Orange X3MC
$84,395
$73,500 including 3K rebates (Loyalty, Lease, Charge into Summer)
36/12K
$7,000 MSDs
Drive offs $2000 (Acquisition and Fees and Taxes. CALI )
$951 Monthly
Which dealership was this?
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      06-17-2021, 10:37 AM   #1423
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Originally Posted by ///minh View Post
I might have a person for ya but he's in New York. You would need to fly there to do the paperwork etc and then ship or drive your car back home.
I'll take his info if possible!

My M40i lease is almost up and wanted to put in an order for a 2022 XM3 Comp. The guy who did my current lease is no longer around and need to find a new contact in NY/NJ.
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      06-24-2021, 08:17 PM   #1424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socalhawki View Post
ChipC's post is spot on.

A few more things to consider...

MF=Money Factor = interest rate when leasing. Multiply MF by 2400 to get true interest rate. I've seen a lot of deals that looked good on "negotiated price" but the dealer made up for it by increasing the money factor. Use the LEASEHACKR calculator to help you figure out how much a lease really costs.

MSD=Multiple Security Deposit. Basically, you're fronting some money to finance the lease. Rather than CASH at signing you're better off doing MSDs. You'll get that money back at the end of the lease.

Buying a car off a lease generally doesn't make much sense in the total price paid. You will pay thousands more if you do this rather than buying up front.

There are many good articles on the internet about leasing vs buying and car negotiation. You can ask this board about specific BMW stuff.
where did you get the money factor into a interest rate just by multiplying 2400?

im a little currious
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      06-25-2021, 09:20 AM   #1425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bSwiazzy View Post
where did you get the money factor into a interest rate just by multiplying 2400?

im a little currious
https://www.leaseguide.com/glossary/...or-calculator/
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      07-02-2021, 10:00 AM   #1426
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Updated with July program, including 2022MY
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      07-02-2021, 01:57 PM   #1427
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2021 X3M Competition Alpine White w/ Sakhir Orange
MSRP: $82,145
Selling Price: $74,134.96
36/Month 12k miles/per year
$5,581.27 Due at signing (taxes, fees, first payment)
$915.27/monthly payment

Just secured this one this past Wednesday!
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      07-03-2021, 07:45 PM   #1428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glassjaw047 View Post
2021 X3M Competition Alpine White w/ Sakhir Orange
MSRP: $82,145
Selling Price: $74,134.96
36/Month 12k miles/per year
$5,581.27 Due at signing (taxes, fees, first payment)
$915.27/monthly payment

Just secured this one this past Wednesday!
That is a massive amount down which is normally not the right move.
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      07-03-2021, 09:17 PM   #1429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glassjaw047 View Post
2021 X3M Competition Alpine White w/ Sakhir Orange
MSRP: $82,145
Selling Price: $74,134.96
36/Month 12k miles/per year
$5,581.27 Due at signing (taxes, fees, first payment)
$915.27/monthly payment

Just secured this one this past Wednesday!
Very good deal given the current situation!
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      07-03-2021, 10:12 PM   #1430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sittingmongoose View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glassjaw047 View Post
2021 X3M Competition Alpine White w/ Sakhir Orange
MSRP: $82,145
Selling Price: $74,134.96
36/Month 12k miles/per year
$5,581.27 Due at signing (taxes, fees, first payment)
$915.27/monthly payment

Just secured this one this past Wednesday!
That is a massive amount down which is normally not the right move.
Marginally more risky. I think that recommendation and worry is blown out of proportion. I haven't put money down in any of my cars in the last few years. I also haven't totaled any cars in 20 years of driving.

If you have a reason to put money down, I don't think it's a big deal.
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