01-24-2024, 11:13 PM | #1 |
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How can you test the IBM sensor with a multimeter?
Hey everyone!
So my 11' X35i won't start and I spent all day reading on this forum and think my IBM sensor might be bad. I tried to charge the battery directly on the battery terminals instead of on the terminals inside the hood, and am not sure if I blew the IBM sensor. My husband started working on the vehicle and quit after a few weeks and I have all the time in the world and would really like to get it running again. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! |
01-25-2024, 12:40 AM | #2 |
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If you are thinking about IVM module, have a look here:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/d...x-free.842864/ If you are concerned about IBS sensor, here is a video: Mostly the same on newer BMW's. The actual sensor cannot be measured by means of a multimeter, it is a electronic device with digital communication. More info here: https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/i...o-test.929039/ A diagnose device would be really useful in such situation, can be a BimmerLink / BimmerTool phone app + OBDII interface or a stand alone type like Autel / Launch. Last edited by radunre; 01-25-2024 at 01:00 AM.. |
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01-25-2024, 01:45 AM | #3 |
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Thank you so much!
He said he had installed ISTA+ and was getting codes:
Deactivation of terminal 15 and 30B: Upper startability limit reached, but deactivation preventer active. I read here that it might be the IBS sensor and wanted to find a way to know if it's bad before I ordered a new one. My father passed down an old heavy duty battery charger and I put it on the battery terminal and don't know if I ruined the IBS sensor by doing that. Thanks! |
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01-25-2024, 01:30 PM | #6 |
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Codes and test plan
So I sorted his folder and categorized the screenshots. I just created my account here last night and it looks like I'll have to wait 7 days before my account can be upgraded to post images. I uploaded the pictures to an image host:
1. Fault codes https://ibb.co/gm3PjtS 2. Test plan https://ibb.co/bRkRkMK What stands out the most is: -Replace DME -IBS sensor -Icing of relay integrated supply module David kept complaining that the fuel pump won't turn on. @deyrag Yup, that's him! The car will sit here for another month unless I get involved. |
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01-25-2024, 06:00 PM | #7 | |
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Drives: Z4MC-X3-35i-525i, Corrado G60
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Quote:
Why start half a dozen threads on this same no-start issue therefore loosing the discussion history of what's going on with the problem |
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01-26-2024, 01:02 PM | #10 |
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Sorry, I'm not going to dig through all the various separate topics started on this issue in attempt to puzzle together what has already been done to diagnose the issue. Besides, as mentioned, I tried to help on the errors and got a snide reply in return.
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01-26-2024, 03:15 PM | #12 |
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Sometimes the car wouldn't start and I would be worried that I wouldn't be able to get home. I would press the Start button and there would be no sound and I would get some sort of a key/ignition warning. I try a few more times and nothing. Then I wouldn't even have my foot on the gas petal and press the Start button and the car would start, which is very strange.
We had the starter and battery replaced and programmed and noticed that the fuel pump wouldn't start when the car was unlocked. The problem now is trying to figure out why the car won't 'awake'. |
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01-26-2024, 04:19 PM | #13 |
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01-26-2024, 04:44 PM | #14 |
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That has nothing to do with me.
If you do not wish to contribute something positive, please refrain from hijacking my troubleshooting thread. Thank you.
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01-26-2024, 05:11 PM | #16 |
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Thank you, I apprecaite it. Maybe I'll buy a new IBS sensor / ground wire combo and see if it helps wake up the car and allows the fuel pump to prime when the car is unlocked
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01-26-2024, 10:50 PM | #17 |
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Codes:
Bmw
8020DB Wake-up line to IBS, short circuit to ground or open circuit 801410 CON No current coding data stored 801A4C SINE: under voltage detected in internal voltage supply 93076B Deactivation of terminal 30B, upper storability limit reached 93076B Deactivation of terminal 15, upper startability limit reached, but deactivation preventer active. D02D58 Signal (wheel torque powertrain 1 41.3.4) invalid transmitter DME / DDE D014A1 Signal (actual position EPS, 51.0.2) invalid transmitter EPS CD8E10 LIN bus: Communications fault 109001 Coolant temperature sensor, electrical: Short to B+ or line disconnection 108A01 Charge-air temperature sensor, electrical: Short circuit to B+ 1C3002 Engine-oil pressure sensor, electrical: Short circuit to earth 1C3102 Engine-oil pressure sensor, plausibility: Pressure too low before engine start 119001 Rail pressure sensor, electrical: Short circuit to B+ 8011C1 Favorite button 1: Continues operations detected 138102 Exhaust flap, activation. Short circuit to each 121001 Charging pressure sensor, electrical: Short circuit to B+ 1C3101 Engine-oil pressure sensor: plausibility: Pressure too high before engine start 1B5302 Supply, terminal 15N_2: Short circuit to ground 1B5402 Supply, terminal 15N_3: Short circuit to ground 101202 Throttle valve, throttle potentiometer 2, electrical: Short circuit to ground 101001 Throttle valve, throttle potentiometer 1, electrical: Short circuit to B+ 100A04 Consequent reaction: Throttle valve, throttle potentiometer 1 and 2, Doble fault 107A50 Consequent reaction: throttle valve: Emergency operation mode active 1B5202 Supply, terminal 15N_1: short circuit to ground 1F0515 Valvetronic, supply voltage Line disconnection 801C20 ZGM: central fault memory full -no control-unit fault 930994 Safety battery terminal: Resistance too high C90D60 AUC sensor: internal sensor fault 9030E8 Reset or deactivation of terminal 30F 133104 Valvetronic relay, activation: Line disconnection Any advice would be greatly appreciated! |
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01-27-2024, 12:45 PM | #18 |
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Buzzing
Does anyone have an idea of where this buzzing noise comes from?
It is on when the car is either on accessory mode or turned off and locked. the only way to turn it off is to unplug the car battery. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/PeEn-BNeTp4 |
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01-27-2024, 01:57 PM | #19 |
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Buzzing
Figured out the buzzing. The plugs on top of the positive battery terminal weren't plugged in all the way. The fuel pump still won't prime when unlocking the car, but a big relief. I'll try to reset the codes and test again. Will post update
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01-27-2024, 07:55 PM | #20 |
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I've been trying to solve this problem all day:
The car says "Battery discharging while stopped: Electrical devices were temporarily switched off." The 'smart charger' says the battery is 100% full and the charger is always connected to the terminals inside the engine bay while diagnosing the car. The battery tester reads 620 cold cranking amps and 12.64 volts. Yes, the voltage and cold cranking amps need to be higher, but is it low enough to where the car would "switch off electrical devices" ? Also, why does the smart charger say 100% charged when the cold cranking amps are only at 620 but the battery is rated at 850, and the voltage is only at 12.63 (85% full) when a 100% charge is at 13 volts. Is the charger, tester, or car at fault? I'm wondering if this has something to do with the fuel pump not priming when the car is unlocked. When the Start button is pressed, the starter cranks fast, but the car won't start. A new battery was purchased and coded with ISTA+, but still the fuel pump won't turn on. Wondering why the "Battery Discharging while Stopped: Electrical Devices were Temporarily Switched Off" warning shows on the car monitor ? Thanks in advance! Last edited by LisaA; 01-27-2024 at 08:09 PM.. |
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