[Volkom]

Hey guys,
I've got a 2013 X3 (F25) 72k miles EDIT: (x28i 2.0L - the N20 (edit))

I was driving down the highway, wanted to gas it as one does time to time- full wide open throttle, it redlined at like 7k RPM (possibly didn't feel the turbo kick in) and then switched into neutral, lost all engine power. There was no sound that would indicate catastrophic mechanical failure, just a loss of power.

Coasted to the side of the highway- it will not switch into neutral normally nor with the disabled vehicle trick (moving it forward once for 4 sec then back... etc).

When attempting to start I hear a click which i assume is the starter solenoid, but it will NOT crank. It also shuts off power to the entire car for a second.

It says ignition on- switch into park to start, the gearshift says P though.

I have a check engine light, OBD2 scanner won't detect any fault codes.
I'm hooking up my ENET data cable tomorrow morning and downloading ISTA-D to see if i can find anything.

Going to check the BST in the morning as well.

I'm stumped, anyone run into this before or know where to begin with troubleshooting? No obvious signs of any loose hoses or anything.

Thanks

[Barbera335]

Your engine locked up. The click when trying to start and subsequent electrical power drop is because the starter is trying to turn a locked engine. Most likely a broken connecting rod or broken timing chain. Unfortunately at this point you need a new engine.

[Marty in NY]

Volkom , which engine do you have?

[e30lover318i]

Originally Posted by Barbera335

Your engine locked up. The click when trying to start and subsequent electrical power drop is because the starter is trying to turn a locked engine. Most likely a broken connecting rod or broken timing chain. Unfortunately at this point you need a new engine.

I hate to disagree with you but that’s a hell of a guess... I drove this e46 in my shop with the connecting rod sitting in the belly pan. If he blew a rod he would know it.

Volkom, can you get to a scanner capable of reading your transmission and EGS codes?

[Barbera335]

Originally Posted by e30lover318i

I hate to disagree with you but that’s a hell of a guess... I drove this e46 in my shop with the connecting rod sitting in the belly pan. If he blew a rod he would know it.

Volkom, can you get to a scanner capable of reading your transmission and EGS codes?

I'm not always right but I'm pretty confident on this one. Best option for the OP is to put a ratchet and a socket on the crank pulley and see if the engine turns manually. I am certain it is locked up.

[Volkom]

Thanks for the input guys.

I've got the 2.0L x28i
Going to try out ISTA right now and also turn it manually.

The turbo was recently serviced at the dealership per voluntary recall for the oil line for the smoke on start issue.

I would think that there would be some indication via sound that something had broke or seized up, whereas it simply let off the throttle and coasted.

I'm hoping it's a sensor related issue, but if it's not it's downright embarrassing that an engine would blow at 72k... I'll post back as soon as I know anything.
Also there's no oil leaking from anything nor any obvious hoses disconnected.

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by Volkom

Thanks for the input guys.

I've got the 2.0L x28i
Going to try out ISTA right now and also turn it manually.

The turbo was recently serviced at the dealership per voluntary recall for the oil line for the smoke on start issue.

I would think that there would be some indication via sound that something had broke or seized up, whereas it simply let off the throttle and coasted.

I'm hoping it's a sensor related issue, but if it's not it's downright embarrassing that an engine would blow at 72k... I'll post back as soon as I know anything.
Also there's no oil leaking from anything nor any obvious hoses disconnected.

How recently did the dealer service the turbo in terms of mileage? Do you know what they did?

[Volkom]

Within like 5000 miles i'd say, a year ago. They replaced the oil feed line into the turbocharger with one that has a check-valve to prevent smoke on startup.

The warranty was extended to 70k for that issue, among others, but without symptoms for the other issues they wouldn't replace those.

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by Volkom

Within like 5000 miles i'd say, a year ago. They replaced the oil feed line into the turbocharger with one that has a check-valve to prevent smoke on startup.

The warranty was extended to 70k for that issue, among others, but without symptoms for the other issues they wouldn't replace those.

Ok, thanks. I was wondering if it may have been just a hundred or so miles but 5K miles and a year ago, they most likely will not consider your current issue as a result of what they did
Not sure on your engine how easy it is to pull the plugs before you try turning the engine over by hand but you may need to so you don't have to fight the compression.

[383vett]

Originally Posted by Barbera335

I'm not always right but I'm pretty confident on this one. Best option for the OP is to put a ratchet and a socket on the crank pulley and see if the engine turns manually. I am certain it is locked up.

Unfortunately, I agree with Barbera. When a motor is locked up, all you will hear is a click of the starter along with the lights dimming.

[Sandy5454]

Just a thought- check the easy thing first- check the battery connections and including the battery earth strap to the bodywork.
If that fails/ corrodes it can cause all sorts of weird faults.
good luck

[Volkom]

Still downloading the massive behemoth that's ISTA...

If it's the timing chain or oil pump i'm wondering if BMW will cover it out of good faith considering i brought it up before I was out of the warranty period expired and they said no because there were no symptoms.

We'll see. This download could not be any more painful hahaha

[pungo]

Originally Posted by Volkom

Still downloading the massive behemoth that's ISTA...

If it's the timing chain or oil pump i'm wondering if BMW will cover it out of good faith considering i brought it up before I was out of the warranty period expired and they said no because there were no symptoms.

We'll see. This download could not be any more painful hahaha

If you're download ista-p, don't, that's for flashing and huge, you only need ista-d for diagnostic.

[Volkom]

Just got back from the car- there's a lot of codes but a lot of them are just radio select switches being held down too long/power mirror undervoltage.

Bolded codes are 'currently present'
The two most recent fault codes with matching mileage to the incident are:

135808 - Valvetronic servomotor, position sensors, electrical; Malfunction
135A08 - Valvetronic servomotor, position sensors, signal: Not plausible

The top one being the most recent.

Furthermore under operations report I have several codes:

0x930769 Deactivation of terminal 15; upper startability limit reached
0x93076A Deactivation of terminal 15; upper startability limit reached but deactivation preventer active
0x93076B Deactivation of terminal 30B; upper startability limit reached
0x93076C Deactivation of terminal 30B; upper startability limit reached but deactivation preventer or legal load/consumer active
0x800E89 FRM: startability limit reached with lights active during stationary operation
0x800E8C FRM Terminal 30B connection for lights faulty
0x800FB9 Outside mirror undervoltage
0x48279B ICM Undervoltage in vehicle
0x8020E8 Reset or deactivation of terminal 30F
0x802102 JBE undervoltage
0xC90D9B Seat heating passenger no LIN component

I'm unable to turn the pulleys by hand cause it's a bit cramped, i'll be able to get better leverage tonight when i get my tools in there and remove some plugs as was suggested.

Two questions- will removing the battery to charge it outside of the car erase the ECU fault logs
Is there a way to save the ISTA output to some sort of text file or printout? I was unable to find anything while searching so i just took screenshots

[pungo]

l

Originally Posted by Volkom

I'm unable to turn the pulleys by hand cause it's a bit cramped, i'll be able to get better leverage tonight when i get my tools in there and remove some plugs as was suggested.

Two questions- will removing the battery to charge it outside of the car erase the ECU fault logs
Is there a way to save the ISTA output to some sort of text file or printout? I was unable to find anything while searching so i just took screenshots

Pulling some plugs will only ease turning the engine by hand if those particular cyls are on the compression stroke. I wouldn't bother pulling plugs, I've never had a problem turning an engine by hand, though slower, with the plugs in.

You shouldn't loose any codes pulling the batt. What's the batt voltage?

ISTA should have a printer icon at the top of each screen. I just click it and print to a pdf.

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by Volkom

Just got back from the car- there's a lot of codes but a lot of them are just radio select switches being held down too long/power mirror undervoltage.

Two questions- will removing the battery to charge it outside of the car erase the ECU fault logs
Is there a way to save the ISTA output to some sort of text file or printout? I was unable to find anything while searching so i just took screenshots

Yes, you can disconnect your battery and your cars puter will retain the codes. Go here and plug in your codes and start reading, read all your codes and all the "view" links, write down your summary and what steps you will take per each code. Sounds like a sensor or valvetronic motor failure. I suspect many of your under voltage codes are a result of you trying to start the car and the lights dim as it takes all the power from your battery to try and turn it over but read those codes too.

Go here, plug in your code, engine number, captcha, and start reading --> https://bmwfault.codes

You will see a result like these.. ..

.

[Volkom]

Guys I cant express how much i appreciate the help- you're making a bad week so much better. I sincerely appreciate all your knowledge and information.

Haven't measured battery voltage, my multimeter got left behind on the trip where the car died. I'll trickle charge it overnight.
Is there any harm in clearing the fault codes and trying a startup again?

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by Volkom

Guys I cant express how much i appreciate the help- you're making a bad week so much better. I sincerely appreciate all your knowledge and information.

Haven't measured battery voltage, my multimeter got left behind on the trip where the car died. I'll trickle charge it overnight.
Is there any harm in clearing the fault codes and trying a startup again?

I can't say with 100% certainty that there's no harm but I suspect if the engine simply won't move, then no, no harm since all that you will be doing is engaging the starter solenoid and pulling hard on the battery. Of course, doing so will bring your battery voltage below threshold and throw codes again....which is what I imagine you are trying to do. Just be sure to keep your battery charged through all this, you don't need battery issues on top of it.

All that said, you might recall the days, or maybe not, when cars were simple, no electronics, just electrics and before OBD2. Sometimes, you would get a symptom like yours where you would turn the key, you would hear a click and the lights would dim if you had them on or at least the dome light would dim if your door was open but the engine would not move. Batteries were usually up front in the engine bay and the terminals were usually corroded and not making enough clean contact with the cables. You would simply remove the cables, clean the battery terminals with a rotary brush made for that, reconnect the cables and start the car.

Your battery is in the back, below the cargo floor and a sub cover, have you looked at it yet? Just wondering if all is nice and clean and the connections are tight. I was reading a few posts where water was leaking in via the center brake light and finding its way into the battery compartment...so, just take a look if you haven't already.

[Volkom]

Battery appeared good when i checked it- first suspected a BST but it looks good. I'll charge it up and keep it topped off.
I kind of prefer working on our old Dodge Grand Caravan because it's more simple, fewer sensors and there's not as much "it's not working because the car thinks you'll hurt it, take it to the dealer" type stuff.

I'm going to see if I can pull the head off and replace the valvetronic motor this week- i'm in nyc so i have to do it on the street hahahaha. Fuel injector puller comes wednesday, we'll see about the valvetronic assembly.

My dad's coming over soon with our sockets so we'll be able to tell if the motor can turn.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by Volkom

Guys I cant express how much i appreciate the help- you're making a bad week so much better. I sincerely appreciate all your knowledge and information.

Haven't measured battery voltage, my multimeter got left behind on the trip where the car died. I'll trickle charge it overnight.
Is there any harm in clearing the fault codes and trying a startup again?

Hey, we're here to help each other out.


Like I said, you can use the print function to record all the error codes, then clear them and see what show back up.

[Volkom]

Won't turn via the pulleys.
I can't shift it into neutral either, could this be a transmission issue at this point?
Gonna keep researching...

[pungo]

Could the trans be in gear even though it shows park?
I don't think you can shift into neutral without the engine running.