[dooo]

Originally Posted by dmanb2b

Dang, this is unfortunate, but to your point such a common ocurrence. Do you mind sharing where this shop is located or name, so we know to tread with caution?

This shop is in MD. I won't disclose the name of the shop publicly, but those who want to know, DM me

[Vervish]

Quick question about setting ride height - is the adjuster gap spacing of 20mm rear and 5mm front the lowest recommended height?

[apramming]

Does anyone know if the tie rod really needs to be removed? Also, does the axle come out of the transmission that easily? I had changed cv axles on fwd cars that I had to pry out until it popped out past the hog-nose ring. I have a '21 X3M40i and I'm going to install H&R springs.

[LIFTED*M3]

Did my H&R Springs this weekend. Tie rod does need to come out I think. The knuckle has to move alot to get it lined back up when reinstalling.

I decided to unhook the ABS sensor on the front to give more angle to the knuckle. It's the same internal torx bit used on rear strut bolts..Easy to take out and reattach.

I also used the 2 ton bottle jack trick on the knuckle to slowly push up on the strut lower mount platform. Inch it up a little at a time and it slowly moves with the 5x8mm spreader tool. Don't press too much to bend the lower spring mount.

No lights so far and still tracks perfectly straight.

Couple of questions I have that might help this thread.

Rear has 4 bolts that need torqued.

Rear strut cap bolts
Strut to lower arm bolt
Lower control arm to spindle bolt
Wheel torque 105 ft lbs

Front needs these

Upper strut mount holts
Tie rod bolt
Knuckle squeeze bolt
Upper sway bar bolt
Strut bar bolt
Wheel Torque 105 ft lbs.

I used 30 ft lbs on the 13mm socket nuts
I used the battery impact gun on the other 21mm and 18mm sockets. Then torqued to 100 ft lbs minimum.

I reused factory hardware. Do people normally buy new?

I have no noises and the car sits level based on cormer measurements from ground to fender. Rides surprisingly well. It's noticeably lower standing next to it.

[Imkdd]

allinon72 , great instructions. The money you saved me will go towards summer vacation .

I used them to install an Eibach Pro-kit, and although it took me two days to do it the first time, (those fronts were really a pain!), I had a few rattles afterwards, so I used them to take everything apart and do it all over again, only this time it only took about 4 hours. Some key takeaways and tips:

• The bottle jack for the front struts was essential, especially with 20000 miles of New England weather gumming up the front strut mounts.
  
  
• I found the strut spreaders that you turn were ineffective and chewed up the knuckle. Instead I used two of these Strut spreaders from Amazon, one above and below the strut pinch bolt. They spread it just a bit further, which was especially helpful the first time.
  
  
• In the back I struggled with holding down the control arm while also trying to get the strut back in, so I slid the outer control arm bolt back into the arm, slipped a crow bar between the bolt and the arm, and held it down with my foot while I used both hands to finagle the strut back in.
  
  
• Regarding the rattles in the front, I found I hadn’t fully seated the tie rods back into the knuckle when I put it back together, so they rattled over bumps and cracks, but at rest they seemed tight and the steering felt fine. When you reinsert those, be sure to move the knuckle a bit as you’re inserting them to ensure they’re fully seated.

I’ve decided to replace the Eibachs with MSS springs, so I’ll be using them a third time.

[diirk]

Originally Posted by allinon72

2. Support the vehicle with jack stands on both sides with the rear lifting points. Highly recommend using BMW jack pads that fit inside the rectangular jacking points (you can find these on Amazon). NOTE - do not have the parking brake on for this installation - it keeps the suspension in a bind and will not allow for reinstallation of suspension hardware. For safety, make sure the vehicle cannot roll.

Is there a link or better photo of the jack pad? There's a ton of different ones on Amazon.

Thanks

[Edgar_FriendlyX3M]

Originally Posted by diirk

Is there a link or better photo of the jack pad? There's a ton of different ones on Amazon.

Thanks

These are the ones I have and have worked well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

[diirk]

Originally Posted by Edgar_FriendlyX3M

These are the ones I have and have worked well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

Awesome, thank you. I'm glad I asked, totally different then the one's I had on my Mini.

[diirk]

A new data point for install instructions.
2023 X3MC has 13mm hex bolts for the rear upper strut.

[Rottweiler]

Imkdd

If you ever visit Honolulu lmk and I’ll have tools and springs waiting for you

[imran83]

allinon72
r33_RGSport

Would appreciate your thoughts here. Any idea why we cant install the front like evolve did on a G80? Instead of removing the strut from the knuckle, they left the strut within the knuckle and removed the top mount just dropped the strut from the top mount via a jack (slowly). Interested in tackling the MSS install this weekend, so if there's anyway of making the process easier, I am all for it! Would love to hear your perspective.

See video below at 1 minute:
https://www.google.com/search?q=mss+...vU1RbrSE,st:19

[r33_RGSport]

Originally Posted by imran83

allinon72
r33_RGSport

Would appreciate your thoughts here. Any idea why we cant install the front like evolve did on a G80? Instead of removing the strut from the knuckle, they left the strut within the knuckle and removed the top mount just dropped the strut from the top mount via a jack (slowly). Interested in tackling the MSS install this weekend, so if there's anyway of making the process easier, I am all for it! Would love to hear your perspective.

See video below at 1 minute:
https://www.google.com/search?q=mss+...vU1RbrSE,st:19

Different strut length and wheel well clearance for the shock to comes out.
Also, you are very restricted with front axle.

[Dasky_spas]

Is there a real danger in reusing the old bolts? I'll speak from my experience just the other week- the entire rear strut came loose! My installer didn't believe it so he inspected, agreed, and retightened using blue locktite.

I'll now have to bring to another shop to redo the entire install using new bolts. Quite unfortunate..

[TacosRule!]

Originally Posted by allinon72

FRONT INSTALLATION

2. Remove 2 13mm nuts on both sides and lift the strut tower bar out of the engine bay.

Hardware info -
Hex nut with plate - part #07147139131

8. Locate tie rod, remove 21mm nut. Thread nut to the very end of the stud, tap lightly with a rubber mallet to free it from the knuckle. Remove nut and bend the tie rod out of the way.

Hardware info -
Combination nut - part #33306787062

9. Locate sway bar end link where it attaches to the top of the strut. Remove 18mm nut and position the end link out of the way.

Hardware info -
Hex nut with flange - part #37106789678

10. Locate the 18mm pinch bolt that holds the strut in the knuckle and remove. The nut is 16mm. This also has a bracket on it that holds the wires that we just removed.

Hardware info -
Hexagon screw with flange - part #07119906095
Hex nut with flange - part #37106789678

11. Go back up in the engine bay and loosen, but do not remove, the 3 13mm bolts that hold the top of the strut.

19. Once the strut is removed from the knuckle, remove the 3 top bolts that we loosened earlier and the strut can be removed from the vehicle.

Hardware info -
Hex bolt - part #51618746894

20. The spring replacement procedure is very similar to the rear. Note – it does not take much to take the tension off the top strut mount, so no need to go crazy with the spring compressor.

21. Transfer over the new lower spring mount from the MSS kit to the strut, along with the OEM bumpstop that was removed from the rear. Don’t forget to install the sleeve!!

Hardware info -
Nut, self locking - part #34339806226

allinon72 Thanks so much for the amazing write-up. Quick question on step 21 part. What is the self-locking nut for, PN 34339806226? How many do I need?

Can you double check my math please? Want to make sure I get all the hardware in a single order.

Thanks again!

[DBU]

Hey Admin: This thread is Sticky worthy...

[blown99]

Hey does anyone that has done this have a recommendation on how to get the front back in? Struggling to find the angle to start. Put the top in loose first? Any thoughts or ideas on this would be appreciated. Halfway through the project and getting back at it in the am

[blown99]

Originally Posted by blown99

Hey does anyone that has done this have a recommendation on how to get the front back in? Struggling to find the angle to start. Put the top in loose first? Any thoughts or ideas on this would be appreciated. Halfway through the project and getting back at it in the am

Alright finished this up today. The steps above are awesome and very helpful.

A few things I’d recommend:

Before trying to remove the strut:
Clean the top where the strut slides, I used a plastic brush and a little cleaner to get any debris out I could to keep it from hindering it sliding out. I then sprayed penetrating oil along the seam.

Lossen the center control arm nut and bolt from the frame, no need to take it out, just get it loose. 21mm nut and bolt. To get to it you have to remove the plastic cover blocking it. 2 8mm bolts near the top, 4 underneath.

I tried a strut spreader and was not all that helpful. I just used an angle pry bar to gently spread while my dad hammered where the tie rod mounts. Continuing this process worked perfect. Nothing crazy hammering or prying.

Installing the strut:
Turn the height adjustment of the MSS collar all the way DOWN so you are as low as possible. This makes it so you don’t need a spring compressor to re assemble AND it make the assembly a little shorter which is much nicer for install.

I took the caliper off(cause I was doing pads anyway) but it made finagling the hub easier because it was much lighter.

Put the strut up in place and just barely thread one screw, I threaded the closest to the headlight.

Grease the base of the strut and the hub where it slides in.

Lift and twist the hub to get the axle back in. The the angle you need is for a hard right turn on passenger and if you were making a hard left turn on the drivers side

Once lined up and strated we used the jack with a couple wood blocks to lift on the bottom of the hub where the control arm mounts. Gradually lifted up while gently spreading with the pry bar and it went it like buttah!!

Side note, I unhooked all my sensors from the plugs and especially the speed sensor to get it out of the way. No lights or issues.

Hope this forum and a few of my tidbits help someone else, pay it forward.

Thanks OP for a great thread it was immensely helpful.

[M4Lou]

Originally Posted by LIFTED*M3

Did my H&R Springs this weekend. Tie rod does need to come out I think. The knuckle has to move alot to get it lined back up when reinstalling.

I decided to unhook the ABS sensor on the front to give more angle to the knuckle. It's the same internal torx bit used on rear strut bolts..Easy to take out and reattach.

I also used the 2 ton bottle jack trick on the knuckle to slowly push up on the strut lower mount platform. Inch it up a little at a time and it slowly moves with the 5x8mm spreader tool. Don't press too much to bend the lower spring mount.

No lights so far and still tracks perfectly straight.

Couple of questions I have that might help this thread.

Rear has 4 bolts that need torqued.

Rear strut cap bolts
Strut to lower arm bolt
Lower control arm to spindle bolt
Wheel torque 105 ft lbs

Front needs these

Upper strut mount holts
Tie rod bolt
Knuckle squeeze bolt
Upper sway bar bolt
Strut bar bolt
Wheel Torque 105 ft lbs.

I used 30 ft lbs on the 13mm socket nuts
I used the battery impact gun on the other 21mm and 18mm sockets. Then torqued to 100 ft lbs minimum.

I reused factory hardware. Do people normally buy new?

I have no noises and the car sits level based on cormer measurements from ground to fender. Rides surprisingly well. It's noticeably lower standing next to it.

Torque specs are a big mystery - appreciate you putting a couple in your thread. I know, it's just what you did and may not be 100% what's in a BMW service manual.

The M14 bolt/nuts on the lower control arm are rated way past 100ft/lbs, so clearly 100ft/lbs is safe.

(In "rated to", I mean - in general that bolt is rated way past 100ft/lbs - not necessarily what BMW recc's)

Question: do you remember what you torqued the front strut knuckle pinch bolts to? It is an M12 bolt and rated to 100ft/lbs. Seems way too high - but that bolt is pretty important.

??

Or anyone know what they torqued the front strut pinch bolts to??

[ThirstyX3M]

Originally Posted by M4Lou

Torque specs are a big mystery - appreciate you putting a couple in your thread. I know, it's just what you did and may not be 100% what's in a BMW service manual.

The M14 bolt/nuts on the lower control arm are rated way past 100ft/lbs, so clearly 100ft/lbs is safe.

(In "rated to", I mean - in general that bolt is rated way past 100ft/lbs - not necessarily what BMW recc's)

Question: do you remember what you torqued the front strut knuckle pinch bolts to? It is an M12 bolt and rated to 100ft/lbs. Seems way too high - but that bolt is pretty important.

??

Or anyone know what they torqued the front strut pinch bolts to??

Pinch bolts are 60nm + 90 degrees if I remember correctly. Top front strut nut is 71nm

[M4Lou]

Originally Posted by ThirstyX3M

Pinch bolts are 60nm + 90 degrees if I remember correctly. Top front strut nut is 71nm

Exactly what my local service said today. Thanks!

Service guy said do not** re-use the bolt/nut. I did order another set of bolts/nuts. I put the original set to 60ft/lbs (60nm = about 40ft/lbs). I figured 40ft/lbs + 1/4turn was close to 60ft/lbs.

Anyway, thanks and I will replace/retorque when I get the new set.

[ThirstyX3M]

Originally Posted by M4Lou

Exactly what my local service said today. Thanks!

Service guy said do not** re-use the bolt/nut. I did order another set of bolts/nuts. I put the original set to 60ft/lbs (60nm = about 40ft/lbs). I figured 40ft/lbs + 1/4turn was close to 60ft/lbs.

Anyway, thanks and I will replace/retorque when I get the new set.

Yes, actually most all the hardware is TTY and should definitely be replaced imo

[M4Lou]

Originally Posted by ThirstyX3M

Yes, actually most all the hardware is TTY and should definitely be replaced imo

Replaced the pinch bolts w/ new - torqued to 60nm/41 ft/lbs and did another 1/4 turn. For kicks, check that w/ the wrench at 50ft/lbs and then 60ft/lbs - spec is tighter than both.

Thirsty - do you know the spec of the sway bar end link and tie-rod nut??