[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by Wgosma

F30: you might want to browse here https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...=Match+up7+BMW

No im not requesting info on an F30, I was just referencing my F30 because I have HK there. I was asking if adding the MatchUP7 to my G01 with Hifi would bring it up to the level or past the quality of sound my F30 has with the Harman setup.

[spta97]

Originally Posted by pierreye

I didn't try without fiberfill. The fiberfill is loosely stuff so that shouldn't block the opening. So far based on my measurement and listening test, no issue at all.

Perhaps I'll try with and without to see if it makes a positive difference.

I'm hoping to do the install in phases starting with the ghost subs to see if they make a difference in sound as I've got ~90 days left to try out the speakers.

I was going to order polyfill but I understand it is the same stuff used in pillows and I happen to have a couple lying around

[supraken]

For those who have swapped out the stock speakers with aftermarket ones that are not drop-in's (Bavsound, Eton, Focal, etc), were you able to find speaker harness so that the stock wiring doesn't need to be spliced ?

Also, for the speaker wiring in the doors, is there a separate wiring from the amp to the tweeter and to the midrange ? From the pics that I've seen, it looks almost like a single signal goes to the stock midrange, and then there's a wire that goes from the midrange to the tweeter ?

[QUiKSR20]

Originally Posted by supraken

For those who have swapped out the stock speakers with aftermarket ones that are not drop-in's (Bavsound, Eton, Focal, etc), were you able to find speaker harness so that the stock wiring doesn't need to be spliced ?

Also, for the speaker wiring in the doors, is there a separate wiring from the amp to the tweeter and to the midrange ? From the pics that I've seen, it looks almost like a single signal goes to the stock midrange, and then there's a wire that goes from the midrange to the tweeter ?

You can order the pins & connectors from BMW I believe, Someone should be able to confirm the part #s.

[Pepppie]

All right. Got my 2020 G01 with Live Cockpit Professional and 676 hifi system. Picked specifically the 676 hifi option with the Audiotec Fischer UP7BMW amplifier in mind, but now BMW changed a little bit in the OEM audio system..

The car has a RAM (receiver audio module) and, because of that, Audiotec told me the UP7BMW will not function although it is pin compatible to fit. They're working on a brand new amplifier to solve this issue.

In the meantime.. Does anyone had this problem and have a workaround to get the UP7BMW working?

[Tronner]

OK I have been fiddling with the MatchUp7 for way more hours than I'd like to admit the last 3 or 4 days. I think I'm getting to settings that I am happy with. There are a few inherent problems with trying to get it all dialed in, especially if you're really into audio and a bit obsessive like I am. Here are a few things I've found so far in my experimenting and testing as well as my tune file for those who care to try it.

1. Tuning it to sound good for all inputs is difficult. I've gotten it to where decent mp3 files played through my ipod sound really good, but then when I switch to Sirius (which I probably listen to more) everything sounds really bass heavy and the high end is too bright. So you either have to tune for one input and adjust treble and bass to suit others, or try to find middle ground that gives up a little bit on each.
2. Really take your time and get accurate distance measurements to each front speaker at least. Tiny differences in distance measurements in the time/distance delay can have a pretty big effect on vocals. I think the best sequence I found was to set left and right channel distances first. Then I played some stand up comedy so I could just hear voices, get the center channel close, then back off like 6" and slowly come back toward the real distance and even beyond if needed until the sound blends together without any echo. If your time delay is a bit off it can make the voices sound funny.
3. The AT manual on the site recommends about a 3ms delay for the rear channels. I think it definitely helped tone them down so that I really only hear the front stage, which is what I want.
3. The BMW SUV profile seems overly bright to my ears on the high end. I ended up smoothing out the entire curve and dropping the treble over the range from 1000 to 16000hz quite a bit. Actually, looking at the settings of the "Limousine" profile I wouldn't be surprised if that one sounds better in our cars with the right distance settings in there.
4. Some of of the FX enhancements are pretty cool and worth playing around to see what you like.
5. I'm really impressed with the output of the stock 8" woofers with this amp. They have ALMOST enough bass for me and I'm a pretty big basshead haha. If they could play down another 20hz with good volume they'd be fantastic.
6. Unfortunately the system is still limited with some tiny "mid" drivers and woofers that have to perform double duty as woofers AND subs. But overall I'm very happy with the Match Up7 upgrade. I just wish I had someone else tune it so I wouldn't keep tinkering with it LOL.

If you want to try out my file remember to change the file name back to a .afpx extension. I've included the Generic SUV version with my measurements for reference and comparison.

[pierreye]

You could get URC.3 so that you can switch the profile in your car without a PC. As I'm using only one source so I have no problem with one profile. Or you can try to play mp3 thru your HU using a thumbdrive if it sound similar to Sirius. I don't have Satellite radio in Malaysia but local FM station always love to jack up the bass to compensate for most crappy car stereo.

[Wgosma]

Music: Consider a Tidal or Qobuz high-res streaming service subscription on your phone, connect to car's aux input port. You'll never go back to MP3's - compressed files are inferior source.

[M40i017]

Originally Posted by pierreye

My X3 30i came with Hifi option, 676A so I'm able to swap the amp with Match 7BMW amp. During installation, I found out the connector need to be modify in order to fit the harness and bracket also need to modify too. What a PITA.

Once done, the installation took less than 15 mins. Downloaded the standard profile for SUV from Fischer Audiotech, do a quick listening test. The sound is quite underwhelming with standard profile. Next I take a measuring tape and measure the actual distance from each speaker and update the settings. Wow, what a big difference. After the delay setting, the stereo effect is really good and the vocal is dead center at the driver seat.

Next I try to do a quick EQ using REW and found out there is no AUX port!!! It's quite late to try other method and do a quick EQ by ear and make some changes to the electronic crossover. Bass does sound much better compare to stock amp. In fact, I feel the speakers come with Hifi option is pretty good. Make me think twice if I should swap out the speakers with Scanspeak speakers.

This would be a 3 stage upgrade. My next step is to install a 12" JBL WS1200 with Rockford Fosgate RDX500 amp under the trunk. Last step would be upgrading the speakers with scanspeak discovery mid and revelator tweeter.

Update 1.
Done more thorough listening test today. The sound does open up and very good separation. I'm comparing the sound system to my another car, BMW F10 with Top Hifi. If I can choose again, I would get Hifi Option and upgrade the amp. It's miles better than my L7 Hifi system. Bass is really good from the underseat woofer. Just don't expect deep thumping sound but I feel it's better define and not muddy compare to Top Hifi.

Uploaded tuning file
Please rename the file extension from PDF to afpx.

Update 2. Trunk Subwoofer Added
Done adding JBL Club WS1200 subwoofer in custom 0.75 cuft sealed enclosure. The sub is driven by Rockford Fosgate RD500X with 500W of power at 2 ohm. Power wiring is 4 gauge with 120A fuse. Give it a quick listening by setting the subwoofer crossover at 80hz and change the underseat sub to cover from 80hz to 180hz, the bass sound deeper and with more tactile feel. With the volume turn up to 75%, the rear view mirror is vibrating with heavy bass. Will do the tuning tomorrow.

Update 3. New tuning file using REW RTA
Done individual speakers tuning using REW RTA and UMIK-1 CSL calibrated mic. The music is very balance compare to generic file for SUV. Please note that the tuning file is only for BMW HIFI stock speakers and underseat sub. The tuning file include trunk sub so if you don't have it, please mute channel H (RCA out) and change the High Pass filter for Subwoofer 1 and Subwoofer 2 to 50hz. Remember to rename BMW G01 Custom.pdf to BMW G01 Custom.afpx

Update 4. Install Scan Speak Tweeter and Midrange speakers
https://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showp...8;postcount=47

Update 5. Install GRS B200-2 underseat subwoofer
https://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showp...8;postcount=51

What did this entire stereo upgrade set up cost in the end? Very interested in a similar upgrade

[Alias1431]

The aux may be more help in that case. A well encoded mp3 sounds pretty similar to lossless unless you have a $20k system. BMW's audio certainly won't get you perfect results.

I think the biggest culprit is the Bluetooth. Anyone have technical info over which version/codec BMW uses? There can be quite the difference in quality between implementations.

[pierreye]

Originally Posted by M40i017

What did this entire stereo upgrade set up cost in the end? Very interested in a similar upgrade

Around USD 2.5k. You need to print the speaker bracket with a 3D printer. DM me if you need the stl file.

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by Alias1431

The aux may be more help in that case. A well encoded mp3 sounds pretty similar to lossless unless you have a $20k system. BMW's audio certainly won't get you perfect results.

I think the biggest culprit is the Bluetooth. Anyone have technical info over which version/codec BMW uses? There can be quite the difference in quality between implementations.

Tend to Disagree based on 1st hand experience in F25 running Qobuz, lossless definitely superior to compressed source, anyone can immediately hear the sound quality difference in my car. Bluetooth is poor connection as you noted, aux input superior.

I'm running stock 676 hi-fi speakers and AudioTech Fischer amp.

What is a "well encoded" mp3 as compared to say a not so well encoded file, etc?

[M40i017]

Originally Posted by Wgosma

Tend to Disagree based on 1st hand experience in F25 running Qobuz, lossless definitely superior to compressed source, anyone can immediately hear the sound quality difference in my car. Bluetooth is poor connection as you noted, aux input superior.

I'm running stock 676 hi-fi speakers and AudioTech Fischer amp.

What is a "well encoded" mp3 as compared to say a not so well encoded file, etc?

Did you noticed a significant difference in bass from just upgrading the amp and keeping the stock speakers/subs??

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by M40i017

Did you noticed a significant difference in bass from just upgrading the amp and keeping the stock speakers/subs??

A bit on bass but not really a lot. Those relatively small diameter under seat woofers are just too small to dig deep enough to reproduce very low frequency bass tone.

Overall sound imaging and detail greatly improved.

[pierreye]

My preferences for best source is loseless FLAC USB thumbdrive. But I'm thinking a better stream to the amp is thru MEC HD-AUDIO USB-INTERFACE. You would bypass the HU and ADC converter in the amp so theoretically giving you the highest SNR possible. Plus I can run BruteFIR for phase correction from the external player using an Android tablet, RPi or a mini PC.

[Alias1431]

Originally Posted by Wgosma

Tend to Disagree based on 1st hand experience in F25 running Qobuz, lossless definitely superior to compressed source, anyone can immediately hear the sound quality difference in my car. Bluetooth is poor connection as you noted, aux input superior.

I'm running stock 676 hi-fi speakers and AudioTech Fischer amp.

What is a "well encoded" mp3 as compared to say a not so well encoded file, etc?

An mp3 is a lossy format that can come from any source. There are mp3's out there that are garbage due to bitrate, yes, but also some that were encoded from a poor source. You could encode a 320 CBR mp3, but it will still sound terrible if the source was, say, an mp3 you created in 1994 at a low bitrate. Garbage in, garbage out. Hell, even a flac can sound like shit if you're just converting it from a poor source. So rule #1 is always encode from Lossless to lossy, or lossless to lossless. Never lossy to lossy, or lossy to lossless.

Generally, 320CBR is the best, mainstream mp3 type (generalizing- we can really go into the weeds here). 320CBR is like 99+% of the sound of flac, but with a much, much smaller file size. You will not be able to tell the difference in a car, unless it's a Rolls-Royce and you're parked somewhere quiet.

I actually prefer v0 VBR vs. 320 CBR. Smaller file size and like 99.99% of the sound.

Like mp3's, the type of Bluetooth being used can vary widely:

https://www.soundguys.com/understand...-codecs-15352/

I suspect BMW does not use a great one, which explains why a 128kbps mp3 that plays off aux or the hard drive sounds better than a flac over Bluetooth.

[aspame82]

Originally Posted by Tronner

OK I have been fiddling with the MatchUp7 for way more hours than I'd like to admit the last 3 or 4 days. I think I'm getting to settings........
If you want to try out my file remember to change the file name back to a .afpx extension. I've included the Generic SUV version with my measurements for reference and comparison.

Thank you very much for providing this audio dsp file setup. I was a little disappointed using the generic dsp suv file but after loading yours evrything changed, it sounds really good!!

[Alias1431]

Originally Posted by Alias1431

An mp3 is a lossy format that can come from any source. There are mp3's out there that are garbage due to bitrate, yes, but also some that were encoded from a poor source. You could encode a 320 CBR mp3, but it will still sound terrible if the source was, say, an mp3 you created in 1994 at a low bitrate. Garbage in, garbage out. Hell, even a flac can sound like shit if you're just converting it from a poor source. So rule #1 is always encode from Lossless to lossy, or lossless to lossless. Never lossy to lossy, or lossy to lossless.

Generally, 320CBR is the best, mainstream mp3 type (generalizing- we can really go into the weeds here). 320CBR is like 99+% of the sound of flac, but with a much, much smaller file size. You will not be able to tell the difference in a car, unless it's a Rolls-Royce and you're parked somewhere quiet.

I actually prefer v0 VBR vs. 320 CBR. Smaller file size and like 99.99% of the sound.

Like mp3's, the type of Bluetooth being used can vary widely:

https://www.soundguys.com/understand...-codecs-15352/

I suspect BMW does not use a great one, which explains why a 128kbps mp3 that plays off aux or the hard drive sounds better than a flac over Bluetooth.

Follow-up, started using Carplay recently for the first time ever. Wow! Sounds wayyy better than Bluetooth. I'm guessing because it connects via wifi, and can transfer 100% of the data, similar to a USB connection, unlike Bluetooth. I'm actually surprised by how much better it sounded. These days, there are very high quality Bluetooth codecs that will sound just as good as USB or hard drive. Is there a way to switch or upgrade the BMW Bluetooth codec the infotainment is using? If not, shame on BMW for putting less effort into their audio system than Honda.

[Tronner]

For those who have installed an additional sub/amp did you have to do anything in the DSP settings to get the LineOut on the MatchUp7 amp to work other than unmuting that channel in the sound file? I just installed a Rockford Punch 300x1 with a PS3 Shallow mount 10" woofer and cannot get sound from the sub. The one thing I don't have is the remote out line running from the Match amp to the Rockford amp. I'm waiting for that piece to be sent to me in the mail since I left it in AZ and I'm in Colorado for the summer, and I see it looks like a two-pin connector which is confusing and may be the problem. BUT I did run a temporary remote turn on to the battery, and I can get the Rockford amp to turn on and ground and power are good. I verified that the sub makes noise with a battery so I should have signal there, and the crossover points on the line out channel should be good. But if you look at this picture you can see that the LineOut channel is not seeing any signal while music is playing in the amp (shows "-inf" for level - that is constantly changing on the other channels.) So I think it's not putting out any signal over to the Rockford amp. Am I missing a setting or something?

[pierreye]

Originally Posted by Tronner

For those who have installed an additional sub/amp did you have to do anything in the DSP settings to get the LineOut on the MatchUp7 amp to work other than unmuting that channel in the sound file? I just installed a Rockford Punch 300x1 with a PS3 Shallow mount 10" woofer and cannot get sound from the sub. The one thing I don't have is the remote out line running from the Match amp to the Rockford amp. I'm waiting for that piece to be sent to me in the mail since I left it in AZ and I'm in Colorado for the summer, and I see it looks like a two-pin connector which is confusing and may be the problem. BUT I did run a temporary remote turn on to the battery, and I can get the Rockford amp to turn on and ground and power are good. I verified that the sub makes noise with a battery so I should have signal there, and the crossover points on the line out channel should be good. But if you look at this picture you can see that the LineOut channel is not seeing any signal while music is playing in the amp (shows "-inf" for level - that is constantly changing on the other channels.) So I think it's not putting out any signal over to the Rockford amp. Am I missing a setting or something?

Look at the channel routing settings. Make sure Line Out Output is the sum of 25% FL, 25% FR, 25% RL, 25% RR.

[Tronner]

Originally Posted by pierreye

Look at the channel routing settings. Make sure Line Out Output is the sum of 25% FL, 25% FR, 25% RL, 25% RR.

That did it - thanks!! Wow I would have had a hard time figuring that out. You'd think they'd set it up from the factory so people can just unmute the Line Out channel. Or at least mention that in the manual - I didn't see any mention of summing in there at all. Thanks for the help!

[pierreye]

No problem. I thought it's by default but always double check. Enjoy your new sound system.