[sibhusz06]

Just did the fluid and filter change on a 2012 X3 35i msport. Heres a summary in case anyone decides to do this as I couldn't find any detailed instructions. Give yourself about 2-3 hours as I took my time. Im sure next time I could do this in an hour or so.

I got a kit from FCP Euro with 7 quarts of LM 1800 fluid and the ZF8 filter and screws and fill plug for about 165.

1. Placed front on ramps and jacked up rear.
2. Undid transmission filter cover bolts by removing 8 8mm screws.
3. Remove 10mm hex fill plug, remove 8mm drain plug. Ended up draining 4.1 liters on a cold engine.
4. Remove about 15 T40 pan screws and remove pan while noting neck has to be pulled out carefully. Let drain for another 30 minutes or so.
5. Clean mating surface. Install new filter while making sure neck enters body first. Install new screws to 4nm plus quarter turn which ends up being around 8nm.
6. Filled about 2 quarts using a fluid pump.
7. Had to start car and cycle through D,N,P gears and warmed up for about 10 minutes before I got the tranny to 30C on a 50F day. I used a infrared thermometer and checked the body as my Foxwell 410 doesn't seem to support temp functions. Was then able to put about 2 more quarts back in.
8. Install fill plug to about 20-25ftlbs. Install transmission filter cover back on.

I noticed my fluid was outright dark black but no metal shavings. The filter was also pretty black and this is from a car that has just seen mostly highway driving. So far so good. Car shifts and drive smooth. Cant really say I noticed any difference in terms of drivability.

[Riick]

There's a bout a million articles on how to change a ZF trans fluid/filter. In a perfect world you should do it every 20k miles, but 50k is fine. ATF is always black the red coloring goes away quite fast, that's not a sign if it's "bad" or not.

[Barbera335]

I dont know, I did mine at 60k and the fluid looked like new. Also, the fluid that came out of my trans as well as what I put back in was gold, not red.

[Wgosma]

It's true- lubricating fluid color alone is not a valid indicator of the condition. One really needs lab analysis to check for changes in viscosity, particulates, etc.

[EndoDoc]

Thanks for the write up, adds value to all the videos. Did you note a gasket or oring that might get left behind if not careful when removing the old pan? I recall seeing that mentioned in a video, perhaps around the neck you mentioned?

[sibhusz06]

The gasket is built into the pan, so no need to buy one. There is also a o ring on the filter neck which is already fitted on the pan. It literally is a drop pan, wipe transmission sealing surface, and put new pan in assuming your using the oem ZF pan kit.

As to the fluid, i realize the detergents are at work, but new fluid is golden and hadnt seen tranny fluid ever come out as black as i saw.

One thing i will say is refilling is tricky and i have a feeling that some whom may have had problems with indies or diy is ensuring you measure what you take out and refilling the same back in.

[EndoDoc]

Originally Posted by sibhusz06

One thing i will say is refilling is tricky and i have a feeling that some whom may have had problems with indies or diy is ensuring you measure what you take out and refilling the same back in.

Thank you for clarifying the o-ring location. I have not done the fluid change but did note in the differential thread that refilling with what was removed in qty may not be the most accurate as the assumption is that the tranny was filled correctly initially or by previous service. I am most definitely going to use the proper 'bring up to temp' protocol to do this job.

[BIG_KID]

I changed mine at 80K
I used ZF lifeguard 8 fluid
It came out greenish tint
New oil went in with exact same greenish tint
The smell reminds me of soap

[EndoDoc]

Attempted to complete the entire fluid change but after replacing the sump I realized my manual fluid pump I got (CTA Tools 7077 Extraction and Filling Pump) was worthless, cumbersome, and taking me forever to put fluid back in. I have the car buttoned up and sitting in the garage for the next week until I can get a pressurized fluid delivery pump, lesson learned and an FYI for those who are planning on doing this.

Fluid came out darker and the magnets in the sump pan were coated with fine metal particles. I was able to drain 4.5Qts. I'll update after I get the fluid procedure run.

[sibhusz06]

I do remember putting the hose in the fill opening was a real snag and I had to angle it in there somewhat upwards as going in head on you hit something. Try not to use too large of a fill hose also, I think mine was around 3/8 OD

[EndoDoc]

I am assuming you did this under a running car? Heat concern you?

IstaD states that when the car starts to keep the fill hole open and immediately fill until it drips out. You did that? Or just kept the fill hole closed and waited for the temp to rise?

Originally Posted by sibhusz06

I do remember putting the hose in the fill opening was a real snag and I had to angle it in there somewhat upwards as going in head on you hit something. Try not to use too large of a fill hose also, I think mine was around 3/8 OD

[sibhusz06]

I was initially able to fill 2 quarts, then had to turn the car on and let it warm up and then as it got around 26C, I was able to pump in fluid and was rushing before it overshot 40C. I used a IR thermometer to measure temp on the housing. I did overshot and then waited for it to cool down before I got my final fill.

[EndoDoc]

I think you were okay overshooting at 40C, the ideal temp for refilling is between 30C and 50C.

Originally Posted by sibhusz06

I was initially able to fill 2 quarts, then had to turn the car on and let it warm up and then as it got around 26C, I was able to pump in fluid and was rushing before it overshot 40C. I used a IR thermometer to measure temp on the housing. I did overshot and then waited for it to cool down before I got my final fill.

[F30ed]

Originally Posted by sibhusz06

1. Placed front on ramps and jacked up rear.

How tall are the ramps? Are they flat?
How did you prevent fronts from rolling when lifting rear since they no have e-brake?
How did you jack up the rear, on the differential?

[Clayman71]

Did you have to use a code reader to reset any tranny adaptations? If yes, which device? I don't own a PC (Mac only) and ma having a hard time finding a code reader that will clear adaptations and retract brakes (two main things I need it for).

thanks.

[Burnaby]

I just want to add additional info if someone is interested.
1. BMW do not use Red transmission fluid since early 90's. ZF is greenish or if you use BMW OEM or Pentosin is lager beer color. I would not advise you to use anything else.
2. Do not reset the adaptations. You can read many posts where people suggest that, but I bet they just heard the rumor somewhere. I made that mistake trusting online resulting in very bad downshift especially if your transmission has substantial mileage. It gets better overtime as the electronic is capable of re-learning and adapt, but it takes several hundred km.
3. The 40 degree precision question. Ask yourself what is the difference in the volume of the fluid during the summer when you perform the procedure compared to the volume at 40 degree Celsius. The official ZF procedure give that temperature recommendation, but explain if the level is too low the transmission will be damaged. If the level is too high the excess oil will leak trough the overflow and it can ignite on hot surface. What outcome would you prefer? My car is oily underneath anyways.

[F30ed]

Originally Posted by Burnaby

3. The 40 degree precision question. Ask yourself what is the difference in the volume of the fluid during the summer when you perform the procedure compared to the volume at 40 degree Celsius. The official ZF procedure give that temperature recommendation, but explain if the level is too low the transmission will be damaged. If the level is too high the excess oil will leak trough the overflow and it can ignite on hot surface. What outcome would you prefer? My car is oily underneath anyways.

I did change following the procedure, which was cumbersome plus I burned my hand. Next time I do it on my 328i I will do ghetto style - drain, change pan, tilt forward and pour in same amount as drained with some overfill.

[dat1guy]

Took an appointment to do this in 2 weeks. I bought the car like 6 months ago and I'm close to 90k kilos. Small garage specialized in ZF transmissions quoted me 800$ for transmission + engine oil change, and the stealership quoted me 1800$ and mentioned LiFeTiMe OiL.

Prices are in CAD.

I'm going with the small garage.

[Burnaby]

Originally Posted by F30ed

I did change following the procedure, which was cumbersome plus I burned my hand. Next time I do it on my 328i I will do ghetto style - drain, change pan, tilt forward and pour in same amount as drained with some overfill.

This is what I suggested, just fill as much as you can and don't wait to bring the temperature up. Filling more is better than filling less

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by dat1guy

Took an appointment to do this in 2 weeks. I bought the car like 6 months ago and I'm close to 90k kilos. Small garage specialized in ZF transmissions quoted me 800$ for transmission + engine oil change, and the stealership quoted me 1800$ and mentioned LiFeTiMe OiL.

Prices are in CAD.

I'm going with the small garage.

wow that is expensive.

Its a very easy job, so small garage with a lift shouldn't have a hard time.

[Bufalo]

If the shop is using the BMW branded filter kit and fluids, the price escalates very quickly.

[najnad]

Originally Posted by Burnaby

This is what I suggested, just fill as much as you can and don't wait to bring the temperature up. Filling more is better than filling less

More is not better...too much fluid can create too much pressure and could cause seals to fail.