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      11-26-2020, 11:22 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexFL View Post
so you go full catless?
Well I'm going open down pipe with the valves open...

Valves Closed, then yea still catless, but resonators and muffler, and if that's too loud i may add a cat post dump valve, getting everything together and done now, after im gonna get some dyno runs with valves open vs closed for everyone...
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      11-26-2020, 08:30 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKX4///M View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by suby01 View Post
I dont have any proper instructions. But im running 265 295 20" and so in the iDrive I just chose other as tire choice. Because there are only OEM options available for 19 20 and 21 sizes.
Hmmm...Ill do some digging for u...


In the meantime, got some parts in and more otw....

Arrived:
Remus Resonated Mid pipes
Project Gamma Test pipes (Wrapped in thermal wrap from DEI)
Bootmod3 Stage 2 e30
MSS Suspension
1200Watt Class D 1 channel Amp 1 ohm stable
RF Punch 3 DVC 1 ohm
Audio Control LCI 2
Let's get them on.
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      11-27-2020, 09:19 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r33_RGSport View Post
Let's get them on.
Suspensions going on now, and ill be welding the cutoffs into the midpipes (or clamping mid week) and installing dp's myself, most likely...
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      11-27-2020, 09:21 PM   #48
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Strekken Carbon Lip ordered. Also painted IND front reflectors as well as Eventuri Panel Filters....
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      12-03-2020, 01:59 PM   #49
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Just small update, for those that may be interested in this, and some tips I learned to make it a trouble free install...

Step 1. Weld Flanges to both sides of cutouts.

Important:

1.Make sure the flanges are perfectly lined up with 3" holes in cutouts, any protruding will hit the the exhaust flap when going into open state.

2.Welding flanges to BOTH sides, will allow you to A. run a 3" QTP Turn down to aim the exhaust downward, to avoid heat damage, reduce smell, and increase sound quality slightly. It will also allow you to remove valve and bolt included plate to completely seal exhaust, if replacing valves or you decide to remove the valves completely (for example: at the track).

3.One side will require you cutout a notch on the flange.

4.Measure EXACT placement of the Y-pipes on the first straight section of the mid pipe, so once mid-pipe is installed, the cutouts, are not hitting the the under body of the vehicle, and also are as high as possible to avoid hitting them on the ground when hitting speed bumps, railroad tracks, etc.

NOTE:. REMEMBER, you will be running thick 6mm ID boost lines to the valves so leave room for them, so they have room to bend without kinking...

(You can run 2 separate lines, or 1 line with a Y adapter to separate the 1 boost line into 2...I recommend 1 Thicker boost line tapped from a good boost source, 8-10mm with a 8-10mm to (2) 6mm Y adapter to split the boost line to both adapters...)

5. Cut excess piping off of the Y-pipe, as you can see in the pictures the straight section of the mid pipe is not very long, to have the room you need it is best you use a sawzall or any proper tool to make straight cuts to shorten the ypipes total length, you should be able to cut at least 2 " or more off each side.

6. Decide if you will be using adapters to weld or if you will use exhaust clamps, the proper clamps installed right should give you a leak free seal and the ability to remove the cutouts at a later date, easily...

Using a 70mm OD to 3" OD adapter and 2" 2.75" (70mm) exhaust clamp and 3" exhaust clamp, tightened on the car, once the entire exhaust system is on the car and the tips are even and the exhaust is properly aligned will be the easiest method.

7. Once exhaust and Y pipes are installed, run the engine with the included plates to seal the cutouts, to check for exhaust leaks, as once the valves are installed, u wont be able to hear leaks when u rev the engine, as the valves will be opening...

8. Once you test for leaks, install the valves by using 3 bolts (you will need longer bolts than what is included, and bolt on the valve to the y pipe and the turn downs to the other side of the valve)....Again check for leaks before, connecting your boost source. The boost activated valves have a very tight seal in my experience especially compared to electric cutouts...If there is any leakage, use some liquid exhaust gasket and run a bead around each plate, with the plate closed and cold.

Connect boost source and test...

If the valves are opening to early, aka with daily driving, use a manual boost controller ($15 on amazon) with or without an optional knob run to the engine bay to delay the opening...(The closed position valves open at around 3-5psi)

If you would like the ability to open and close them at will, purchase the open position valve, and run a 12V solenoid with a 1 way check valve.

Lastly if you chose to weld on the Y-pipes to your midpipe, depending on the brand midpipe you chose, you may want a very experienced welded...

Welding titanium to steel, especially, less than 5mm thick can be very difficult, while a MIG can be used, most would recommend a laser welder with an experienced welder familiar with the properties and required settings needed to get a clean bead on this metal combination...

Here are some pics to show placement and general setup I will be using....

Only parts missing are the 8 clamps needed if not welding, 4 x's 3"OD 4 x's 2.75 ID. Liquid gasket, turn downs, boost lines, tap, and solenoid ( to disable, valves, and manual boost controller)...
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      12-07-2020, 02:43 PM   #50
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Received 3" Turn downs, and some adapters, still need 2 more and exhaust clamps, since I may opt not to weld...

Also received Strekken Front lip 4 a great price from RG Sport...
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      12-10-2020, 11:44 AM   #51
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Apparently they only sent the 2/4 larger panel filters
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      12-26-2020, 11:11 AM   #52
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BC Forged 21" 9.5 (F) 11" (R)

Offsets +6, +12

15mm spacers...

265/40/21 +34
295/33/21 +16

Scorpion A/S

Carbon Mirror Covers and Front Grills...
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      12-26-2020, 12:12 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKX4///M View Post
BC Forged 21" 9.5 (F) 11" (R)

Offsets +6, +12

15mm spacers...

265/40/21 +34
295/33/21 +16

Scorpion A/S

Carbon Mirror Covers and Front Grills...
Nice! Put them on!
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      01-02-2021, 09:05 AM   #54
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Hopefully Picking up td, everything but the exhaust cutouts installed...

Cutouts, and Custom higher tune for less backpressure and higher Ethanol Content is next along with 3D Designs sides and rear, and RKP or 3D Designs Front (instead of strekken)...
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      01-02-2021, 11:59 AM   #55
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What dealership do you go to they seem mod friendly?
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      01-02-2021, 06:40 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winn3r View Post
What dealership do you go to they seem mod friendly?

From 2010-2019 I Was going to Habberstad Huntington with my M3, then my M2..Let's just say I was very generous w my service manager, and I i got back many, many times my "investment"....But he always seemed to have a chip on his shoulder....

Since I got the X4M 2 Months, I brought to Comp BMW Smithtown, and both the SM, and the younger tech working on the Truck are both super nice guys, friendly and yes mod friendly....

Regardless, the tune will be detected sooner or later, BMW can now check your DME remotely via your 4G Hotspot....God forbid there is a major engine failure or DT problem, the DME Tamper will be detected and the warranty likely void unless it is a failure due to faulty engineering or 100% unrelated to the mods or resulting failure due to the increased power or control unit changes..."

The way I look at it, this way 1. I get a free loaner, the installs are done to exact specific specs, BMW cant claim a non licensed BMW shops workmanship contributed, and by being generous with the 2 ppl that hold the fate of my 100k truck in my hand, I can rest assured Ill be prioritized and helped whenever possible...
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      01-04-2021, 03:00 PM   #57
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I recommend @Premier.Autocare in Mineola, Long Island
As an alternative to Dealer visit and waiting 3hrs for a simple oil change.

M&P Performance in Bronx/Mount Vernon/Yonkers NYC area

The issue with BMW Oil changes is, they use very thin FE (Fuel Efficiency) oil these days.
Usually 0w20 FE and if you're lucky 0w30 FE. Nothing wrong with 0w30 in the winter but those guys with a lot of exhaust modifications or going over 120mph quite often should be running a better quality oil of 0w40 in winter and 5w40 in summer.
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      01-27-2021, 09:42 AM   #58
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MSS Suspension , CF Kidneys, mirrors, strekken lip, bc. forged 21" wheels, dps, remus midpipe...

Dragy Results

11.0x @ 125 consistently...

next cf side skirts , rear diffuser, Hammon fender wells...

Install subwoofer
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      01-27-2021, 09:53 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKX4///M View Post
MSS Suspension , CF Kidneys, mirrors, strekken lip, bc. forged 21" wheels, dps, remus midpipe...

Dragy Results

11.0x @ 125 consistently...

next cf side skirts , rear diffuser, Hammon fender wells...

Install subwoofer
Looks 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
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      01-27-2021, 09:56 AM   #60
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Valves Open vs Closed...

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      01-27-2021, 10:07 AM   #61
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11.04 @ 124.6 (3.35 0-60)

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      01-27-2021, 10:17 AM   #62
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DKX4///M Looks great!

Where did you see/hear they can check the DME via cellular? I guess time to yank the fuse for that.
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      01-29-2021, 11:22 AM   #63
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Thanks bro...

My SM told me, and i read somewhere vehicles with hotspot can check, maintenence, codes, etc, so they must have access to DME i assume...

He also told me it's not a normal thing, they just have the ability.

But regardless, if you're ever bringing your truck to the dealer, they are going to find your tune eventually, ESPECIALLY if you make a warranty request on engine or drivetrain...

So it's inevitable, and I figure better off telling them and greasing the SM and the tech, and being generous...

Between my e92 M3, f87 M2 and F98 X4M I've given my SM thousands, a few hundred every visit, more n warranty claims, or things they shouldn't do...my friends called me nuts, but in 10 years all 4 cars were FBO, tuned, and even more, like meth, nitrous and DIY standalone fuel. system (for wetshot) in M2 and ive gotten At LEAST 50-70k in work i shouldnt have gotten...

like brand new transmission and rear in M3 bc the tiniest 3rd gear grind (they couldn't even recreate), and i was out the car 2 days...lol...Trans was prob 20k alone, rear, 10-15k...list goes on...
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      01-29-2021, 11:29 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKX4///M View Post
MSS Suspension , CF Kidneys, mirrors, strekken lip, bc. forged 21" wheels, dps, remus midpipe...

Dragy Results

11.0x @ 125 consistently...

next cf side skirts , rear diffuser, Hammon fender wells...

Install subwoofer
Sick!
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      01-29-2021, 11:35 AM   #65
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Just ordered Apropovik High Gloss carbon fiber rear diffuser & Chinese high kick carbon fiber spoiler (had great luck with fiment in past and it was $180...)



Next, 3D designs CF Sideskirts, and 3D front lip or RKP, so i may be selling Srekken lip, I do like it, but kind of want a little more aggressive. Also, custom E50 or E60...
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      02-01-2021, 08:35 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKX4///M View Post
MSS Suspension , CF Kidneys, mirrors, strekken lip, bc. forged 21" wheels, dps, remus midpipe...

Dragy Results 11.0x @ 125 consistently...

next cf side skirts , rear diffuser, Hammon fender wells... Install subwoofer
Really aggressive stance and great mods.

Can I use the 2nd picture in the 'Roof Rail deletion thread'? I've photo-edited it to remove the rails to see how the overall look changes. I'll post it there along with the original if OK with you.
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