[rcsummers]

I finally de-badged the trunk, still need to do the doors.

Put some lamin-x on the fog lights, still need to do the rear taillights.

And I have spacers sitting around waiting to go on as well.

[pdubq]

Originally Posted by rcsummers

I finally de-badged the trunk, still need to do the doors.

Put some lamin-x on the fog lights, still need to do the rear taillights.

And I have spacers sitting around waiting to go on as well.

Clean!!

[rcsummers]

Originally Posted by pdubq

Clean!!

thank you, im shooting for a clean OEM+ look on this thing.

[gomichigan]

rcsummers looks good! do you have a full back shot of the trunk? I also have the same colour M Sport and considering debadging mine.

[Rdavenport89]

Originally Posted by willywi

Retrofitted rear halogen tail light to led.

What was you process for doing this? Were the new lights just plug and play, or did it require coding or new wiring?

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by rcsummers

thank you, im shooting for a clean OEM+ look on this thing.

very nice, love the clean uncluttered look!

[willywi]

Originally Posted by Rdavenport89

What was you process for doing this? Were the new lights just plug and play, or did it require coding or new wiring?

I posted a retrofit guide on this you can check it out in my post.

[RedRaiderDavid]

Finally got the mirrors to fold with a long press, missed the 2nd step in Bimmercode the firs time around. Coded turn signal indicators in the HUD and ordered a Weathertech cargo mat.

[evilchargerfan]

hey guys, I know this isnt the right thread to discuss charge pipes, but I figured.... tons of views and eyes in here, and would prob give me the best responses

I was watching that youtube vid of Kie's doing a chargepipe install on a 535i. Our layouts are similar ISH , they do share the same intakes as F25/n55 people have

I noticed in our engine bay, there is a ton of stuff above our charge pipe.... that said ... will this CP install require me go attack from underneath?

If anyone has a sweet how go / guide / vid .... link me please! (I tried to search and failed)

[evilchargerfan]

update:

pulled up the CP on newtis and it does appear, I have to go under car.... oh joy




https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ation/EVkKLSul

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

update:

pulled up the CP on newtis and it does appear, I have to go under car.... oh joy

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ation/EVkKLSul

I'm missing something....why are people changing this?

[najnad]

Originally Posted by Marty in NY

I'm missing something....why are people changing this?

The plastic charge pipes get brittle over time/heat cycles and have been known to fail. No real damage to the engine, you just lose power until its fixed. So some choose to replace them before they fail...either with a new OEM part or a metal charge pipe available from a few different makers. Some say you get a slight increase in power from the metal charge pipes as well.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

update:
pulled up the CP on newtis and it does appear, I have to go under car.... oh joy

Well if you have to go under the car, if you haven't done it already, now is a good time to change the EPS thrust piece with the updated one to remove play inside the steering rack

Steering Repair kit 32106891974

[EricD735i]

Finished the brake fluid flush and replaced the tension arms. Getting the ball joint end off is a PITA, ended up borrowing a “light truck Pittman arm puller” from Autozone that worked. Bushings were pretty toast.

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by EricD735i

Finished the brake fluid flush and replaced the tension arms. Getting the ball joint end off is a PITA, ended up borrowing a “light truck Pittman arm puller” from Autozone that worked. Bushings were pretty toast.

Baaaahhh, those are good for a hundred thousand more miles....this is trashed

.

[scostu]

Originally Posted by EricD735i

Finished the brake fluid flush and replaced the tension arms. Getting the ball joint end off is a PITA, ended up borrowing a “light truck Pittman arm puller” from Autozone that worked. Bushings were pretty toast.

Mileage?

[evilchargerfan]

Originally Posted by najnad

The plastic charge pipes get brittle over time/heat cycles and have been known to fail. No real damage to the engine, you just lose power until its fixed. So some choose to replace them before they fail...either with a new OEM part or a metal charge pipe available from a few different makers. Some say you get a slight increase in power from the metal charge pipes as well.

thanks najnad , couldnt have said it better myself

Originally Posted by pungo

Well if you have to go under the car, if you haven't done it already, now is a good time to change the EPS thrust piece with the updated one to remove play inside the steering rack

Steering Repair kit 32106891974

took a brief look at the newtis .... the fact that the steps tell me to watch a "training video" ... makes me really really scared to attempt this one




Okay guys, so I intended to do my chargepipe and boost pipe all on Sat. Things did not go as smooth as expected. And the process drained me so much (mostly mentally) that I had to stay away on Sunday, before I do something I regret

As I did with my detailing posts, I'll break this up into small and easy to manage portions.

Step 1: removed the intake ( Marty in NY looks like you got your wish, the intake is off, lol)






Step 2: remove the under tray






things are going just absolutely smooth ... I'm thinking to myself "this is gonna be great, I'll be done in an hour and should be ready for dinner and even have time for a beer and a shower"

oh if I only I had a time machine, so I can go back in time and laugh at myself ...

... to be continued ...

[evilchargerfan]

I looked at the steps outlined in manual and watched a few youtube vids and initial impressions about doing it myself were along the lines of "this is going to be so easy"


Looking down from the drivers side headlights, I notice a bunch of extra stuff in the way ... youtube must have left this part out of the video ...



By the looks of things, an F25 xdrive35i chargepipe install is more difficult compared to others. Thats too bad. Onward!

(next steps are straight forward)










The newtis steps call for "Pull charge air duct out of rubber grommet (4)". I did this with 1 hand tugging on the pipe, and other hand using a flat head to gently "push" to release what was held on by the rubber grommet



(pic is of grommet, direction pipe slides, and the #2 is just the pipe pushed off to the side)



Link, for those who need it:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ation/EVkKLSul

... to be continued ...

[evilchargerfan]

Some actual PROGRESS! YAY!






Now to get out the pipe itself, how hard can this part be... lets just say at one point I had to stop, take a 15 min beer break and wipe down my cuts and bruises.

(lots of twisting, and trial and error just to get it this far out)


(2/3 of the way out)


(final orientation before pulling it up and out)



oem compared to whats going in:




the boost pipe side was less eventful, so I wont put much effort into talking about it








... to be continued ... just not sure when I'll muster up the energy to do so ... and our weather is approaching 100 degrees F this week ... eek

[Marty in NY]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

Some actual PROGRESS! YAY!

Now to get out the pipe itself, how hard can this part be... lets just say at one point I had to stop, take a 15 min beer break and wipe down my cuts and bruises.

(lots of twisting, and trial and error just to get it this far out)

(2/3 of the way out)

(final orientation before pulling it up and out)

oem compared to whats going in:

the boost pipe side was less eventful, so I wont put much effort into talking about it
... to be continued ... just not sure when I'll muster up the energy to do so ... and our weather is approaching 100 degrees F this week ... eek

The fact that you are stopping to take the time to take pix along the way is commendable!! I know when I'm in the middle of doing a job, I think about it but my hands are dirty, greasy, my phone is clean and it just doesn't get done.

So, I see you are just north of Temecula, I've been there visiting a friend, I think it was in late Jan 2018, I loooooved, the weather, the blue sky, how its cool in the morning and the lack of humidity during the day. A realtor still sends me info on new developments that are going up in your area...its tempting.
You need one of those portable A/C units on wheels where you duct the exhaust out a window, you could use it in your garage. BTW, you're pix quality is great!

[pungo]

Originally Posted by pungo

Well if you have to go under the car, if you haven't done it already, now is a good time to change the EPS thrust piece with the updated one to remove play inside the steering rack

Steering Repair kit 32106891974

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

took a brief look at the newtis .... the fact that the steps tell me to watch a "training video" ... makes me really really scared to attempt this one

First, great job documenting the pipe install. I'm sure I'll be going this one day.

Testing for steering rack play:
If you still have the vehicle up in the air, grab the driver side tire at the 3 and 9 o'clock position and rock it like you're turn left to right back & forth and listen/feel for a knocking sound. If felt/heard, then I'd recommend doing the Steering Repair kit. I've successfully done several of these without all the elaborate specialized measuring tools. I just tighten the adjuster until the play is gone and there's a slight resistance when turning the steering wheel left to right, then back off the adjuster a hair until the resistance is gone.

The new part has been refined with anti-wear material where the original part (white-ish) was too soft and wore out easily, causing play in the steering rack.

[willywi]

Originally Posted by pungo

First, great job documenting the pipe install. I'm sure I'll be going this one day.

Testing for steering rack play:
If you still have the vehicle up in the air, grab the driver side tire at the 3 and 9 o'clock position and rock it like you're turn left to right back & forth and listen/feel for a knocking sound. If felt/heard, then I'd recommend doing the Steering Repair kit. I've successfully done several of these without all the elaborate specialized measuring tools. I just tighten the adjuster until the play is gone and there's a slight resistance when turning the steering wheel left to right, then back off the adjuster a hair until the resistance is gone.

The new part has been refined with anti-wear material where the original part (white-ish) was too soft and wore out easily, causing play in the steering rack.

Attachment 2301958

I had steering knock before but it was the steering shaft went bad.