[HeatJoey]

wondering, for those of you who have a garage, what flooring do you have?

I put down the snap in plastic type tiles a few years ago and while they look nice, they aren't nice. they make a lot of noise (because they are hollow), they move around, can't use a jack, and I think water seeps in to the floor below and sits there on the failed/painted original floor lol..

I just can't figure out what to do next without breaking the bank... I would love a shiny epoxy floor but most of these jokers around here don't do it right and it will peel up etc... they do this 1 day job nonsense and don't prep the floor properly...

so now I'm thinking maybe to just do a VCT or vinyl type tile... would be nice with clear over it if thats possible... kind of like the floor in a target... not sure that clear will hold to cars driving on it...

also thought maybe a ceramic tile or something but I do some minor things in there and worry about using a jack on the car or breaking it...

would love some pics or ideas from some of you! here's my current floor recently and the week I installed it about 4 years ago or so. the only benefit to this floor was it was super easy and I basically installed it myself in a day lol.

[lfdal54]

I'll second that. I've got a 25-year-old garage with concrete that needs some work around the edges. Once that's ground down and patched, the question of what I can top it with (or have it topped with) that will stand up to a typical roll-around floor jack without ruining the finish has so far remained unsolvable.

[Sportstick]

I had a polyaspartic application. Here are some details and it explains how a one day process can be effective for this particular chemistry.

https://www.garagefloorcoating.com/p...-polyaspartic/

As this is my "keeper" car (6MT RWD...good luck finding a new one of those!), I also color-coordinated the floor to the forever-car.

The one process I would avoid is one where flakes are spread to provide the color. They scatter to undesired places easily in the slightest breeze and uniform application was a challenge. That is our other two spots I would not recommend repeating.

[Supa-Clean]

Personally used Rustoleum RockSolid. So far so good.

[COM40]

Originally Posted by lfdal54

I'll second that. I've got a 25-year-old garage with concrete that needs some work around the edges. Once that's ground down and patched, the question of what I can top it with (or have it topped with) that will stand up to a typical roll-around floor jack without ruining the finish has so far remained unsolvable.

Ha copy that. 45 yr old house here, built on bentonite clay to boot. Typical for front range CO. That means a lot of slab settling - it's visibly slanted in the garage. Not worth a massive repaving bill so I've learned to live with it.

[HeatJoey]

Originally Posted by Sportstick

I had a polyaspartic application. Here are some details and it explains how a one day process can be effective for this particular chemistry.

https://www.garagefloorcoating.com/p...-polyaspartic/

As this is my "keeper" car (6MT RWD...good luck finding a new one of those!), I also color-coordinated the floor to the forever-car.

The one process I would avoid is one where flakes are spread to provide the color. They scatter to undesired places easily in the slightest breeze and uniform application was a challenge. That is our other two spots I would not recommend repeating.

wow.. love that you matched the floor to the car LOL... I can't do that as I don't keep any one car for long unfortunately but I think I want to avoid paint/epoxy for the time being. thanks for sharing. I think right now it's vinyl or porcelain tile maybe...

[Oldgixxer]

Originally Posted by Supa-Clean

Personally used Rustoleum RockSolid. So far so good.

That looks pretty damn nice,good job!!

[HeatJoey]

Originally Posted by Supa-Clean

Personally used Rustoleum RockSolid. So far so good.

WOW. see I do love the 'shiny' floor but I just know that (if not done right), that flooring will not hold up with cars, the heat and humidity here etc. Not saying yours isn't right just going by what I've been told by people who know... the floor really has to be sanded and prepped properly to have any chance at being long lasting...

I'm really not sure what to do, other than I know I want this current flooring out lol

[bocabimmer]

My friend has a business doing the garage coatings. Look up the difference between epoxy and polyurea coatings.

I would do it but it would it’s like 4 grand for my size garage and I do too much messy stuff (painting, lawn equipment, etc) that it wouldn’t be worth it.

[Sportstick]

Originally Posted by HeatJoey

wow.. love that you matched the floor to the car LOL... I can't do that as I don't keep any one car for long

If this idea entertains you as much as it does for me, you could pull it off over multiple cars just by staying in one more common color family....always a blue, or always a red, etc. Still complimentary even if not an exact match!

[JDsX3]

I have a smaller garage and a larger one. Both garages had their floors professionally epoxy coated when new. The epoxy looked great and held up pretty well for about 8 years and then started having a few areas where it lifted slightly from either hot tires (we live in the desert) or had some battery acid leak from a prior golf cart. I considered getting them redone with epoxy but ultimately decided against it for 2 reasons: it would have to be done again in about 9 to 10 years, and the cars would have to be outside for a week to allow proper and full curing.
Options:
I considered flooring alternatives and narrowed it down to RaceDeck (from Snap Lock) and TechFloor (from WeatherTech), both incidentally manufactured in the USA. [Included in my review were also tiles by Swisstrax, Costco, etc. eliminated as not matching my needs as well as either RaceDeck and TechFloor did.] In case you are not familiar with either, they are both interlocking tiles systems that end up creating a ‘floating’ floor above your existing garage floor. The underside of the tiles are designed to allow liquids to flow out and away as well as to allow for air to pass to avoid any mold growing. The only prep you need to do before putting them down is to sweep clean any dirt, etc. I got samples of both and then decided I preferred the thicker tile of RaceDeck. The tiles are impervious to most chemicals and petroleum products. Basically the only thing I saw from reading lots of reviews was you shouldn’t do any arc welding on them unless you protect the tiles. Since I wasn’t planning on taking up arc welding that was not an issue. And, if I do and somehow destroy an individual tile, you can take it out and replace it. They are rated for vehicle rolling loads to about 80,000 pounds, so apparently next time Jay Leno comes over, if he wants to park his modified M47 Patton M1 tank (or even if he gets that Abrams tank he was looking at) in my larger garage, it should be OK. I used the RaceDeck’s excellent garage-floor-designer/planner on their web site to figure out: the colors (it comes in 12 or so); my design; type of tile (they have several, I went with a combination of “diamond and free-flow;” diamond are solid on top while free-flow are a grid with openings all the way through); and the number of tiles needed for each garage. I also ordered their AccuPark system (2 per car) which enables you to pull in and park in the exact location each time. They are metal and interlock right into the floor just like the standard RaceDeck tiles, include a ‘warning’ raised bump you drive over and then the second bump you stop at. I also ordered the tapered leading edge tiles in the matching colors for use at the respective garage doors.
Process:
I purchased everything directly from Snap Lock and they shipped it to my house, arriving on a single pallet weighing 699 pounds. The tiles were packaged into 20 boxes, with the average being about 35 pounds. The solid tiles are heavier than the Free-Flow. I broke the pallet down into two piles representing the tiles etc. that were to go into each garage.
The tiles I went with are their standard 12”x12” (they also sell the same system in 18”x18”), so unless your garage is close to some multiple of 12” you will probably end up doing some cutting to fit your specific install. While you can cut them with a variety of tools, I decided to get a couple to make the job easier (IMO the ‘right’ tool always reduces stress and makes the job go easier, and you can’t have too many tools). I purchased a Rockwell BladeRunnerX2 (kind of like an upside down table-mounted jig saw with great cutting guides), Bosch plastic cutting blades for it, and a Keter Work Bench so that I can cut/trim the tiles as needed ‘on location’ in each garage.
The process is really very straight forward, following their printed instructions on every box of tiles and their video (on their web site). It took me about 2 ½ hours start to finish to do the smaller (Corvette) garage including the cutting of the tiles to finish the floor to rear wall area (it was about 3 additional inches that I needed to cut for the area across the back wall). After installing the AccuPark the instructions recommend allowing the tape that adheres the metal plate to the special flat interlocking tiles to ‘cure’ up a couple of hours before parking on it. I followed those instructions but that ‘wait’ time is not included in my start to finish time. Gel knee pads were an absolute must since you are continually going down on your knee as you install the next tile in a row (however alternatively, you can, as demonstrated in their video, step on each tile as you put them down instead of getting down on a knee and using a rubber mallet as I did). The BladeRunnerX2 made cutting the tiles for the areas that were less than 12” long a piece of cake. The guide ensured the cuts were straight.
There were no surprises other than how easy it really was to do by yourself. The finished floor looked so good I was really reluctant to put my miscellaneous junk back in the garages.

The larger garage which took me about 6 or so hours. It took longer both because of its size and the number of built-ins I had to custom cut around. Also because that garage faces the street a number of neighbors stopped by to look, ask questions, etc. which added time. By the way, for doing the cutouts around circular objects I used cardboard to make the template and then transferred it to the tile to cut.

As you can see, I use a floor jack on the tiles without any damage or issues.

[HeatJoey]

Originally Posted by JDsX3

I have a smaller garage and a larger one. Both garages had their floors professionally epoxy coated when new. The epoxy looked great and held up pretty well for about 8 years and then started having a few areas where it lifted slightly from either hot tires (we live in the desert) or had some battery acid leak from a prior golf cart. I considered getting them redone with epoxy but ultimately decided against it for 2 reasons: it would have to be done again in about 9 to 10 years, and the cars would have to be outside for a week to allow proper and full curing.
Options:
I considered flooring alternatives and narrowed it down to RaceDeck (from Snap Lock) and TechFloor (from WeatherTech), both incidentally manufactured in the USA. [Included in my review were also tiles by Swisstrax, Costco, etc. eliminated as not matching my needs as well as either RaceDeck and TechFloor did.] In case you are not familiar with either, they are both interlocking tiles systems that end up creating a ‘floating’ floor above your existing garage floor. The underside of the tiles are designed to allow liquids to flow out and away as well as to allow for air to pass to avoid any mold growing. The only prep you need to do before putting them down is to sweep clean any dirt, etc. I got samples of both and then decided I preferred the thicker tile of RaceDeck. The tiles are impervious to most chemicals and petroleum products. Basically the only thing I saw from reading lots of reviews was you shouldn’t do any arc welding on them unless you protect the tiles. Since I wasn’t planning on taking up arc welding that was not an issue. And, if I do and somehow destroy an individual tile, you can take it out and replace it. They are rated for vehicle rolling loads to about 80,000 pounds, so apparently next time Jay Leno comes over, if he wants to park his modified M47 Patton M1 tank (or even if he gets that Abrams tank he was looking at) in my larger garage, it should be OK. I used the RaceDeck’s excellent garage-floor-designer/planner on their web site to figure out: the colors (it comes in 12 or so); my design; type of tile (they have several, I went with a combination of “diamond and free-flow;” diamond are solid on top while free-flow are a grid with openings all the way through); and the number of tiles needed for each garage. I also ordered their AccuPark system (2 per car) which enables you to pull in and park in the exact location each time. They are metal and interlock right into the floor just like the standard RaceDeck tiles, include a ‘warning’ raised bump you drive over and then the second bump you stop at. I also ordered the tapered leading edge tiles in the matching colors for use at the respective garage doors.
Process:
I purchased everything directly from Snap Lock and they shipped it to my house, arriving on a single pallet weighing 699 pounds. The tiles were packaged into 20 boxes, with the average being about 35 pounds. The solid tiles are heavier than the Free-Flow. I broke the pallet down into two piles representing the tiles etc. that were to go into each garage.
The tiles I went with are their standard 12”x12” (they also sell the same system in 18”x18”), so unless your garage is close to some multiple of 12” you will probably end up doing some cutting to fit your specific install. While you can cut them with a variety of tools, I decided to get a couple to make the job easier (IMO the ‘right’ tool always reduces stress and makes the job go easier, and you can’t have too many tools). I purchased a Rockwell BladeRunnerX2 (kind of like an upside down table-mounted jig saw with great cutting guides), Bosch plastic cutting blades for it, and a Keter Work Bench so that I can cut/trim the tiles as needed ‘on location’ in each garage.
The process is really very straight forward, following their printed instructions on every box of tiles and their video (on their web site). It took me about 2 ½ hours start to finish to do the smaller (Corvette) garage including the cutting of the tiles to finish the floor to rear wall area (it was about 3 additional inches that I needed to cut for the area across the back wall). After installing the AccuPark the instructions recommend allowing the tape that adheres the metal plate to the special flat interlocking tiles to ‘cure’ up a couple of hours before parking on it. I followed those instructions but that ‘wait’ time is not included in my start to finish time. Gel knee pads were an absolute must since you are continually going down on your knee as you install the next tile in a row (however alternatively, you can, as demonstrated in their video, step on each tile as you put them down instead of getting down on a knee and using a rubber mallet as I did). The BladeRunnerX2 made cutting the tiles for the areas that were less than 12” long a piece of cake. The guide ensured the cuts were straight.
There were no surprises other than how easy it really was to do by yourself. The finished floor looked so good I was really reluctant to put my miscellaneous junk back in the garages.

The larger garage which took me about 6 or so hours. It took longer both because of its size and the number of built-ins I had to custom cut around. Also because that garage faces the street a number of neighbors stopped by to look, ask questions, etc. which added time. By the way, for doing the cutouts around circular objects I used cardboard to make the template and then transferred it to the tile to cut.

As you can see, I use a floor jack on the tiles without any damage or issues.

wow, this is amazing... I'm going to have to read this all in the morning from the PC though... lol getting old here.... I'm sure I'll have questions and thank you very much for this detailed write up!!

[JDsX3]

Originally Posted by HeatJoey

wow, this is amazing... I'm going to have to read this all in the morning from the PC though... lol getting old here.... I'm sure I'll have questions and thank you very much for this detailed write up!!

Thank you. I do have more detail on the actual process and construction as well as images. Glad to answer questions if I can be of assistance. Cheers.

[HeatJoey]

Originally Posted by JDsX3

Thank you. I do have more detail on the actual process and construction as well as images. Glad to answer questions if I can be of assistance. Cheers.

So are they plastic type matriarch, like the ones I have now. If so I want to avoid the hollow type plastic as I don’t like the feel or the noise. But I do like the idea of easy self install and that they are open to let air in so moisture doesn’t sit under the tiles. Also my floor under the tiles was originally painted but now is a mess I think from moisture sitting under there…so I would also have to really clean or sand or something first underneath I think… maybe I can pressure wash before the next floor install whatever that may be

[JDsX3]

HeatJoey, RaceDeck tiles don't make any noise and feel solid when you walk or drive on them. The design allows liquids to follow the normal slope of a garage towards the garage door and out.

[lfdal54]

Originally Posted by JDsX3

Thank you. I do have more detail on the actual process and construction as well as images. Glad to answer questions if I can be of assistance. Cheers.

Thanks for that post. I think that's the way I'm going to go. Especially since it will handle a floor jack, which is key for me. Now all I have to do is grind down the concrete a bit and patch it around the edges.

[JDsX3]

Originally Posted by lfdal54

Thanks for that post. I think that's the way I'm going to go. Especially since it will handle a floor jack, which is key for me. Now all I have to do is grind down the concrete a bit and patch it around the edges.

The RaceDeck tiles are impressively resilient to pressure. When I was installing them, I used a crowbar to raise the loaded Hon file cabinets (you can see them in the back of the large garage) to get the tiles under them. The crowbar did not even make a mark on the tiles. Similarly, jack stands under a car when I use the floor jack.

[HeatJoey]

Originally Posted by JDsX3

HeatJoey, RaceDeck tiles don't make any noise and feel solid when you walk or drive on them. The design allows liquids to follow the normal slope of a garage towards the garage door and out.

wow.. that's interesting and covers the 2 main issues I have with mine... maybe I'll give it a shot... I only asked that as on their website and in the pics the bottom looks like mine.. hollow pvc type material? maybe I'll order a sample or one piece just so I can see and feel it first lol... guess I'll have to repaint the floor first since you can see underneath with these correct?

this should solve the problem since they are open any water will dry up correct? I don't have a drain or anything just don't want water sitting under a solid tile as that can't be good... what if you spill some type of chemical or something, how do you clean it up or can you clean it up?

[JDsX3]

Originally Posted by HeatJoey

wow.. that's interesting and covers the 2 main issues I have with mine... maybe I'll give it a shot... I only asked that as on their website and in the pics the bottom looks like mine.. hollow pvc type material? maybe I'll order a sample or one piece just so I can see and feel it first lol... guess I'll have to repaint the floor first since you can see underneath with these correct?

this should solve the problem since they are open any water will dry up correct? I don't have a drain or anything just don't want water sitting under a solid tile as that can't be good... what if you spill some type of chemical or something, how do you clean it up or can you clean it up?

The tiles have a solid framework on the underside with channels where water or liquids can both flow and evaporate. This is true for both their grid type tiles and solid top tiles. In my garages I have a mix of both types. You can easily wipe off the top of the tiles, but if you need to wipe up a spill under a tile you will either have to flush it with water or temporarily remove one or two of the tiles.

Yes you can see through the grid type to the floor under it.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Race Deck put down in 2014. This car was built on it. Occasional power wash with an electric low power car cleaning unit.



None of the tiles have been damaged or replaced. Heaviest vehicle worked on with 3 ton jack & jack stands is a 6,000lb Suburban.

[HeatJoey]

Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory

Race Deck put down in 2014. This car was built on it. Occasional power wash with an electric low power car cleaning unit.



None of the tiles have been damaged or replaced. Heaviest vehicle worked on with 3 ton jack & jack stands is a 6,000lb Suburban.

These look identical to mine except mine are hollow and make noise even walking on them and zero chance of using a jack it just breaks the plastic I have to put down plywood . Guess I got the wrong ones lol

[stivsm3]

I used Swisstrax and love them! Simple clean up if anything spills durning oil changes etc. durable and not slippery, used a jack and jack stands on them however I do already have some small metal plates to place under them. My last home had epoxy garage floors that eventually started to fail. Crappy winters in chicago made spring garage clean up easy, ran a shop vac over them first then pressure washed it out. All sorts of color combos if that’s your thing. Gotta figure out how to post a pic