[TacosRule!]

Originally Posted by knali8

Took mine in today for the loctite fix. I had to share the BMW TI document with the service agent. They took the car in for the day to perform other checks, then later on came back with the below :-) The special glue will take six weeks to arrive, coming from Germany.

Reading all these threads about the clicking makes me wonder. How many of these are a side effect of doing the diff bolt fix? You're dropping the diff which means you're putting stress on the shafts. I wonder if dropping the entire thing (diffs and shafts) will help avoid the issue all together?

I'm hesitant to do the diff bolt fix and have the shaft/spline issue come up, because the dealer will see the mod on the diff and automatically deny the fix for the clicking.

I am planning on doing the JXB carrier upgrade at the same time, hence my idea of having the shop drop everything and keep it aligned while they do the work.

Opinions?

[stoked335d]

[QUOTE="TacosRule!;31093091"]Reading all these threads about the clicking makes me wonder. How many of these are a side effect of doing the diff bolt fix? You're dropping the diff which means you're putting stress on the shafts. I wonder if dropping the entire thing (diffs and shafts) will help avoid the issue all together?

I'm hesitant to do the diff bolt fix and have the shaft/spline issue come up, because the dealer will see the mod on the diff and automatically deny the fix for the clicking.

I am planning on doing the JXB carrier upgrade at the same time, hence my idea of having the shop drop everything and keep it aligned while they do the work.

Opinions?

Sound logical to me. Waiting to see how you resolve it without the Einhorn kit.

[Kevin_The_Clean1]

Originally Posted by stoked335d

I'm hesitant to do the diff bolt fix and have the shaft/spline issue come up, because the dealer will see the mod on the diff and automatically deny the fix for the clicking.

I am planning on doing the JXB carrier upgrade at the same time, hence my idea of having the shop drop everything and keep it aligned while they do the work.

Opinions?

Sound logical to me. Waiting to see how you resolve it without the Einhorn kit.

I've heard that JXB unit is pretty awesome.

[knali8]

Originally Posted by TacosRule!

Reading all these threads about the clicking makes me wonder. How many of these are a side effect of doing the diff bolt fix? You're dropping the diff which means you're putting stress on the shafts. I wonder if dropping the entire thing (diffs and shafts) will help avoid the issue all together?

I'm hesitant to do the diff bolt fix and have the shaft/spline issue come up, because the dealer will see the mod on the diff and automatically deny the fix for the clicking.

I am planning on doing the JXB carrier upgrade at the same time, hence my idea of having the shop drop everything and keep it aligned while they do the work.

Opinions?

Sounds logical.. my car is still stock hence going for the loctite fix for now. Let us know when you install the JBX..

[TacosRule!]

Originally Posted by stoked335d

Sound logical to me. Waiting to see how you resolve it without the Einhorn kit.

I'll be doing the vargas kit. I love the british one but i find it hard to justify the price for what is essentially 90% of the vargas kit.

[joebie3]

Also interested to see the thoughts back on the JXB carrier!

[Jnat]

Installed the Vargas rear diff bolt solution only, it was straight forward. Haven't launched yet but i am getting a clunk drive to reverse and vice versa and i didn't drop the diff any so i don't think it's the driveshaft spline issue unless i'm just that unlucky (which is possible).

[///LBB Rav]

I had the JXB installed and noticed improvement in the drivetrain responsiveness. There's no more 'dead' feeling when accelerating so it feels more immediate. I had it and the VTT full lockdown kit installed at the same time so can't comment on NVH from just the JXB. But my current VTT full lockdown kit with the JXB has less NVH than just the Einhorn solid bushing which I had installed prior. Nothing wrong with the Einhorn though - just a bit too loud with the clunks than I'd like. You can't go wrong with either solution in all fairness but sadly I fell into the trap of "no NVH..etc" that was being plastered everywhere for the solid bushing but should have trusted my gut and avoided in the first place. Clunk will re-appear even with the VTT kit even though you don't drop the diff but you're adding a solid connection back to the subframe so any noise/vibration IS going to get back into the cabin - no escaping that.

[Jnat]

Well i guess it's a trade off for some safety/piece of mind.

[Bimma360]

I installed the VTT diff lockdown unit this weekend. I have a lot to say, and will do a full write up very soon. The short of it for now is, the NVH isn't bad but even so it's not what I want on this car. So I have something else on the way.

[TacosRule!]

Originally Posted by Bimma360

I installed the VTT diff lockdown unit this weekend. I have a lot to say, and will do a full write up very soon. The short of it for now is, the NVH isn't bad but even so it's not what I want on this car. So I have something else on the way.

Looking forward to the report.

[TacosRule!]

Originally Posted by ///LBB Rav

Clunk will re-appear even with the VTT kit even though you don't drop the diff but you're adding a solid connection back to the subframe so any noise/vibration IS going to get back into the cabin - no escaping that.

You mean the clunk from the splines?

[///LBB Rav]

Originally Posted by TacosRule!

You mean the clunk from the splines?

Tbh I’m not sure where from as I had the splines loctite’d before the einhorn went in and the clunk appeared. I reverted to oem after the Einhorn and the clunk/clicking disappeared again completely. The dealer did not re-do the loctite after reinstalling an oem bushing. So the oem bushing is still installed with vtt kit and clunk is back so I’m thinking that because the rear end is locked in again, that any driveshaft noise (tcase end or rear diff end) are being transferred through as noise mostly (can’t really feel the click)

[D-Pat Murph]

Originally Posted by TacosRule!

I bought custom exhaust tips from these guys and their workmanship is absolutely top notch. I am gonna start conversations about this kit.
It is pricey but seems to be more logical than the solid einhorn.

https://www.fjmotorwerkes.net/produc...fj-motorwerkes

Did you purchase this kit? If so, any feedback? I’ve already snapped my bolt and it broke my axle. Luckily they warrnitied it. I’m going stage 2 now with a warranty and just don’t want to see the bolt snap again with the added power.

[Jnat]

Originally Posted by Bimma360

I installed the VTT diff lockdown unit this weekend. I have a lot to say, and will do a full write up very soon. The short of it for now is, the NVH isn't bad but even so it's not what I want on this car. So I have something else on the way.

I don't have the complete kit, just the infamous bolt mod from VTT and i def have a clunk. I guessing it's because the bushing is more solid now with the insert and that's the trade off. If it holds and the bolt doesn't snap i'll take the trade.

[knali8]

Originally Posted by ///LBB Rav

Tbh I’m not sure where from as I had the splines loctite’d before the einhorn went in and the clunk appeared. I reverted to oem after the Einhorn and the clunk/clicking disappeared again completely. The dealer did not re-do the loctite after reinstalling an oem bushing. So the oem bushing is still installed with vtt kit and clunk is back so I’m thinking that because the rear end is locked in again, that any driveshaft noise (tcase end or rear diff end) are being transferred through as noise mostly (can’t really feel the click)

It would be good if the loctite was reapplied as we would know if it really does work. You'd probably have to wait 6 weeks for it though

[TacosRule!]

Originally Posted by ///LBB Rav

Tbh I’m not sure where from as I had the splines loctite’d before the einhorn went in and the clunk appeared. I reverted to oem after the Einhorn and the clunk/clicking disappeared again completely. The dealer did not re-do the loctite after reinstalling an oem bushing. So the oem bushing is still installed with vtt kit and clunk is back so I’m thinking that because the rear end is locked in again, that any driveshaft noise (tcase end or rear diff end) are being transferred through as noise mostly (can’t really feel the click)

Gotcha, thanks for the info. I really am on the fence on this now. I think your experience confirms suspicions of any aftermarket solution will induce unwanted noise

[TacosRule!]

Originally Posted by D-Pat Murph

Did you purchase this kit? If so, any feedback? I’ve already snapped my bolt and it broke my axle. Luckily they warrnitied it. I’m going stage 2 now with a warranty and just don’t want to see the bolt snap again with the added power.

No, im debating to get the vargas. The brit version is too expensive for what it is IMO.

[Jnat]

Originally Posted by ///LBB Rav

Tbh I’m not sure where from as I had the splines loctite’d before the einhorn went in and the clunk appeared. I reverted to oem after the Einhorn and the clunk/clicking disappeared again completely. The dealer did not re-do the loctite after reinstalling an oem bushing. So the oem bushing is still installed with vtt kit and clunk is back so I’m thinking that because the rear end is locked in again, that any driveshaft noise (tcase end or rear diff end) are being transferred through as noise mostly (can’t really feel the click)

This imo is correct.

[Y0jjimb0]

Originally Posted by ///LBB Rav

Tbh I’m not sure where from as I had the splines loctite’d before the einhorn went in and the clunk appeared. I reverted to oem after the Einhorn and the clunk/clicking disappeared again completely. The dealer did not re-do the loctite after reinstalling an oem bushing. So the oem bushing is still installed with vtt kit and clunk is back so I’m thinking that because the rear end is locked in again, that any driveshaft noise (tcase end or rear diff end) are being transferred through as noise mostly (can’t really feel the click)

So the einhorn with probably clunk regardless of whether the splines are loctited?

I'm wondering if I should I have the loctite fix done anyway, as a safety measure to protect the driveshaft, even if it won't get rid of the clunk.

It sounds like the clunk just an inevitable byproduct of having a secure diff.

[///LBB Rav]

Originally Posted by Y0jjimb0

So the einhorn with probably clunk regardless of whether the splines are loctited?

I'm wondering if I should I have the loctite fix done anyway, as a safety measure to protect the driveshaft, even if it won't get rid of the clunk.

It sounds like the clunk just an inevitable byproduct of having a secure diff.

Yeah spot on mate! I’d say get a diff solution first and then do the loctite to minimise the amount of noise that will come in. The BMW mechanics did actually say that the solid einhorn wasn’t causing any damage to the transfer case and more recently a guy called Rob pulled apart his rear diff to inspect and it seemed like it was doing well too. Based on everything I’ve read, there’s no perfect solution for everyone. I was going to try Clint’s solution (Rennfix) but it sounded like a pita to have to cut the inner collar. The VTT kit is by far the least onerous / labour intensive solution and for me it just works. For now, I’m happy with where things are at with the car and mods to now start tuning.

[///LBB Rav]

Originally Posted by knali8

It would be good if the loctite was reapplied as we would know if it really does work. You'd probably have to wait 6 weeks for it though

I thought about asking them to re-do it but interestingly after the Einhorn was removed and they put in the new oem bushing, there was no clunk or clicking at all, as they had done the loctite to fix the click before I installed the Einhorn. So I suspect that the loctite on the splines was still holding okay given I had no clicking after OEM bushing was reinstalled after the Einhorn was removed. A little while after the VTT kit was installed, the clunk came back and I know that the diff was hardly moved up to install the VTT inserts so doubt that it would have broken that loctite bond. But now you’ve got me thinking and potentially will book it in again to get it re-done anyway - no harm in it!