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      05-19-2020, 10:28 AM   #23
Njerts
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This is one of my biggest fears.
Now, before i do anything, I crack loose all bolts while it is on all four's
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      05-19-2020, 10:33 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldguysrule View Post
Mechanic was lazy and probaby didn't use torque sticks and just cranked them all on high with the impact.
I hate taking my car to any shops because 99% of them all do this. For everything.
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      05-19-2020, 11:52 AM   #25
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Go take a look at this video by Justin Buice, it might help!

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      05-19-2020, 12:31 PM   #26
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I used a schedule 80, 4 foot pipe for a cheater bar over a lug wrench. If you could pound a 6 point socket so its snug, a long cheater bar could break it off. Of course, if the nut is totally round, that may be a problem.
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      05-19-2020, 01:04 PM   #27
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I too have had this experience.

First time was with non-locking lug that was way over torqued. Luckily was able to use a 6ft pipe on the end of my 3ft breaker bar and get them off.

Second time I found they stripped a locking lug and was only able to get it off through luck. I no longer use any that require a key.

Now when I get home after someone touches my wheels, I loosen and then re-torque the wheels myself. Just got new tires and the shop I used actually did everything correctly.

Be careful applying anti-seize to the lugs.

https://www.tirereview.com/bad-advice-for-lug-nuts/
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      05-19-2020, 01:45 PM   #28
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I had the same issue once upon a time with the crap BMW soft metal keys.... bought a set of stainless steel ones.. twice the depth and bulletproof .. No issues since...
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      05-19-2020, 03:14 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Bilbofraggins View Post
I had the same issue once upon a time with the crap BMW soft metal keys.... bought a set of stainless steel ones.. twice the depth and bulletproof .. No issues since...
Are these the keys for all BMW locks?

I have heard bad reviews on the OEM wheel locks so went with these. I was originally going to get RAD locks (appeared to be the best reviewed) but the guy is not making them anymore.

The US distributor recommended these instead which he said are of equal quality and have unlimited key combinations (and come in black unlike the RADs).

I will be installing this weekend.

https://otisincla.com/product/farad-...ne-seat-black/

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      05-19-2020, 03:41 PM   #30
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Maybe too late, but were you using a 12 point socket or 6. A 12 will round off a fastener easier. 6 points will not. Can you pound on a 6 point socket?
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      05-19-2020, 08:03 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast400 View Post
Breaker bar...or long pipe...
Took it to a shop near me and they tried an electric impact wrench then an air powered one and finally the breaker bar did the trick. Thankfully he had an extractor kit that fit.

$10 tip was all it took.

The dealer never emailed me back after I sent an email complaining. Oh well.
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      05-19-2020, 11:01 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pr3dict View Post
Took it to a shop near me and they tried an electric impact wrench then an air powered one and finally the breaker bar did the trick. Thankfully he had an extractor kit that fit.

$10 tip was all it took.

The dealer never emailed me back after I sent an email complaining. Oh well.
Glad you're back in business!
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      05-19-2020, 11:53 PM   #33
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Yup and she looking goooooood.

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      05-20-2020, 05:35 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spta97 View Post
Are these the keys for all BMW locks?

I have heard bad reviews on the OEM wheel locks so went with these. I was originally going to get RAD locks (appeared to be the best reviewed) but the guy is not making them anymore.

The US distributor recommended these instead which he said are of equal quality and have unlimited key combinations (and come in black unlike the RADs).

I will be installing this weekend.

https://otisincla.com/product/farad-...ne-seat-black/

There are two different types of BMW lock bolts... this is a full set of the original type.... solid steel....I wouldn’t use aftermarket types... had my own bad experience with a set of those...

https://www.ebay.com/p/2254807376

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...=0&cspheader=1

Last edited by Bilbofraggins; 05-20-2020 at 05:44 PM..
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      05-20-2020, 09:22 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilbofraggins View Post
There are two different types of BMW lock bolts... this is a full set of the original type.... solid steel....I wouldn’t use aftermarket types... had my own bad experience with a set of those...

https://www.ebay.com/p/2254807376

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...=0&cspheader=1
You had bad experience with the Farads or another brand?

These apparently are OEM on Mercedes Benz and other manufacturers for what it’s worth.
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      05-21-2020, 09:22 AM   #36
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Mine were bought on Amazon... for and used on an older BMW.... Costco cross threaded and stripped it....putting the wheel on....Which of course I found out later. My next experience was the selling dealer of my X6M - went to put on my new winter boots and 3 of the locks nuts were over torqued. Dealer said bring it in... great... they were a 1000km away. Enter the steel bits after buying and stripping 4 of the light alloy ones to no avail.
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      05-21-2020, 02:33 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pr3dict View Post
Took it to a shop near me and they tried an electric impact wrench then an air powered one and finally the breaker bar did the trick. Thankfully he had an extractor kit that fit.

$10 tip was all it took.

The dealer never emailed me back after I sent an email complaining. Oh well.
Well that's a bitch.

I wanted to suggest heat.. as that can really help; but may ruin the wheel finish around the area.

I get Breaker Bar.. but what'd they use to latch on to the rounded bolt?
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      05-21-2020, 02:35 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sinbad4 View Post
I get Breaker Bar.. but what'd they use to latch on to the rounded bolt?
The shop had a kit that had reverse threaded sharp edges that dug into the bolt as it was turned counter clockwise.
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      05-22-2020, 11:20 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilbofraggins View Post
Mine were bought on Amazon... for and used on an older BMW.... Costco cross threaded and stripped it....putting the wheel on....Which of course I found out later. My next experience was the selling dealer of my X6M - went to put on my new winter boots and 3 of the locks nuts were over torqued. Dealer said bring it in... great... they were a 1000km away. Enter the steel bits after buying and stripping 4 of the light alloy ones to no avail.
Ouch. Whenever I can, I bring my wheels/tires in off the vehicle (I have a large SUV) as I do not trust most mechanics to work lugs properly.

Even with that, several managed to scratch my wheels
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      05-22-2020, 03:36 PM   #40
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Aye... these days, the only person who switches rims is moi...
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      05-22-2020, 04:51 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilbofraggins View Post
Aye... these days, the only person who switches rims is moi...
Moi aussie
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      11-02-2021, 05:08 PM   #42
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I'm furious and not sure what to do now. That same dealer I got the work done had my X3 again because the paint was chipping from where they did the work.

Just went to go put my winter wheels on and would you look at that,, stripped lug bolts.

View post on imgur.com
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      11-02-2021, 05:31 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pr3dict View Post
I'm furious and not sure what to do now. That same dealer I got the work done had my X3 again because the paint was chipping from where they did the work.

Just went to go put my winter wheels on and would you look at that,, stripped lug bolts.

View post on imgur.com
that's what happens when morons use impact guns/wrenches to screw the studs in
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      11-02-2021, 05:36 PM   #44
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Make sure you also check the female threads. I think it's aluminum, so if the bolts look like this...
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