[silent ninja]

What about turning regen to low then driving it as a 'normal' car? When you squeeze the break pedal, it actually uses regen rather than friction brake most of the time. It's simply a different user input - do you want the brake pedal to do regen or lifting of the accelerator?

[stefan9107]

Originally Posted by silent ninja

What about turning regen to low then driving it as a 'normal' car? When you squeeze the break pedal, it actually uses regen rather than friction brake most of the time. It's simply a different user input - do you want the brake pedal to do regen or lifting of the accelerator?

You might want to hit the quote button so people know who you are referring to.

[silent ninja]

Originally Posted by stefan9107

You might want to hit the quote button so people know who you are referring to.

General question to anyone.

I didn't think you needed to use B mode or regen at high/medium for regen to work. I thought it worked by default when you use the brake.

[stefan9107]

Originally Posted by silent ninja

General question to anyone.

I didn't think you needed to use B mode or regen at high/medium for regen to work. I thought it worked by default when you use the brake.

I believe it does use regen when you brake, but I'm not sure how much it fades it in or not and at what speeds to be honest. I don't know if it always uses max regen for example if I'm braking hard from 70 down to 0 (I would assume it does). I'm not sure if that data is available to joe public either.

For me it's more about the laziness of not moving my foot though. It's not so much about being economical as it is I just prefer one pedal driving around town or in traffic.

[brownejp]

Originally Posted by stefan9107

I believe it does use regen when you brake, but I'm not sure how much it fades it in or not and at what speeds to be honest. I don't know if it always uses max regen for example if I'm braking hard from 70 down to 0 (I would assume it does). I'm not sure if that data is available to joe public either.

For me it's more about the laziness of not moving my foot though. It's not so much about being economical as it is I just prefer one pedal driving around town or in traffic.

If you drive the car in Comfort or Eco modes there is a regen amount indicator on the right hand side, presumably when the needle hits the bottom of that indicator is where the friction brakes are kicking in.
Its not displayed in Sport mode, all thats on the right is the Power indicator.

[adam.b]

Originally Posted by brownejp

Its not displayed in Sport mode, all thats on the right is the Power indicator.

It is showing in underline of speed digits in speedometer, underline changes to blue when braking/regen.

[SpaceRock]

I started using the car in the low regen mode + D to test the range out and I’m getting more range this way then when I did regen on max. Interesting observation

[silent ninja]

Originally Posted by SpaceRock

I started using the car in the low regen mode + D to test the range out and I’m getting more range this way then when I did regen on max. Interesting observation

Interesting because we MUCH preferred low regen with the regular driver mode over B mode/high regen. I read that the brake pedal acts as regen, and only uses friction if required. So the difference between B mode and low regen/use of brakes is a matter of user interface preference and has little impact on regeneration.

We've never driven B mode before so got nausea. Low regen makes the car drive like a normal ICE which we liked. I'm sure I'll test out and get used to B mode but nice that BMW have thought this through to make this a very accessible car to EV newbies.

[silent ninja]

So my first winter with the iX3. In the UK it's average -3C to 2C at the moment.

I'm getting 140-160 mile range which for such a big car, is below average and probably poor depending on where your perspective. So my prior petrol SUV would get 300+ miles plus miles in winter. I leave everything on: heating on low once cabin is acclimatised, heated seats and steering wheel on - as we did with the old car. We also preheat the car each morning - I know this is a major battery drain above 'normal.'

I'm having to put the car on charge every 5 days now.

In this cold I would really think twice before driving across the country. Electric cars really don't like the cold.

[keninuk]

Originally Posted by silent ninja

So my first winter with the iX3. In the UK it's average -3C to 2C at the moment.

I'm getting 140-160 mile range which for such a big car, is below average and probably poor depending on where your perspective. So my prior petrol SUV would get 300+ miles plus miles in winter. I leave everything on: heating on low once cabin is acclimatised, heated seats and steering wheel on - as we did with the old car. We also preheat the car each morning - I know this is a major battery drain above 'normal.'

I'm having to put the car on charge every 5 days now.

In this cold I would really think twice before driving across the country. Electric cars really don't like the cold.

A Saturday trip of 87 miles down the M40 to visit relatives and a 1 mile journey to a party and back in the evening with the temperatures below zero on Saturday and then the 87 miles back yesterday at around +5 degrees centigrade I was relieved to arrive home having travelled 176 miles with 21 miles to spare on the guess-o-meter.

I charged to 100% last Friday and did not pre-condition the car/battery before setting off on Saturday afternoon. I knew this would give me less range but would also give me some reassurance that I would not need to charge if I was over 50% before heading back.

After the initial drop in range on the return journey it tended to vary between 15 and 31 miles of excess range available so it was a fairly stress free journey and at a comfortable 23 degrees centigrade in the car. I expected a drop in range on the way back as the battery % remaining at the start was 55 with 124 miles of range and there was no way 2.8 miles per kWh equated to 225 miles of range.

I tend to look at the miles per kWh and I knew I would be fine if I could get 3.0 or above for the miles required but driving at 60-65 in eco-pro I only managed to get it up to 2.8 on the way down and the overall since charging dropped to 2.6 at the start of the return journey but ended up at 2.8 which for a 74kWh pack gives 207 miles so 197 miles via the guess-o-meter and 207 from the miles per kWh is not too far apart.

I also have Goodyear winter tyres fitted so that probably reduces my range a bit but having done what I would consider a worst case scenario over the weekend I now have a good idea what my minimum range is with careful driving and can plan accordingly.

The plan next time for any journey over 160 miles will be to pre-condition, drive much faster and sort out a charging location at the destination or on the way back as I think I was the slowest EV on the M40 at the weekend!

[Supa Koopa]

I've been a little disappointed with mine to be honest, I've only had it just over 2 months so this is my first winter. I was easily getting 3.0 miles per kWh in September, now with the same journeys I'm struggling to get over 2.0. I expected a 20% drop so down to 2.4 at worst, but some trips have been as low as 1.8.

Also when I precondition it switches on the heated steering wheel regardless of the settings I have in Idrive, I've turned it off in the settings etc but it still switches it on. Nice I suppose, but also annoying when I don't want it as it's wasting electric.

Regardless of the poor range, having to charge it more often and experiencing range anxiety, I do have to say coming out to a warm, defrosted and demisted car is very nice.

[GaSelle]

Originally Posted by silent ninja

So my first winter with the iX3. In the UK it's average -3C to 2C at the moment.

I'm getting 140-160 mile range which for such a big car, is below average and probably poor depending on where your perspective. So my prior petrol SUV would get 300+ miles plus miles in winter. I leave everything on: heating on low once cabin is acclimatised, heated seats and steering wheel on - as we did with the old car. We also preheat the car each morning - I know this is a major battery drain above 'normal.'

I'm having to put the car on charge every 5 days now.

In this cold I would really think twice before driving across the country. Electric cars really don't like the cold.

"Cold starts" takes a lot of energy; just like every other car no matter what propels them. You mention that you climatize the cabin and only charges every 5. days; that sounds like a lot of short trips. Therefore, a relative big part of your consumption comes from heating. The car would do better on a long trip, since it would only need to climatize once.

[silent ninja]

Originally Posted by GaSelle

"Cold starts" takes a lot of energy; just like every other car no matter what propels them. You mention that you climatize the cabin and only charges every 5. days; that sounds like a lot of short trips. Therefore, a relative big part of your consumption comes from heating. The car would do better on a long trip, since it would only need to climatize once.

School run every morning and we use preheat then. Yes I imagine a lot of charge is being lost on heating but it's definitely more drastic with electric compared to our previous ICE cars. On an average day we probably lose 8-10% in normal weather. Right now it's 12-13% a day. I guess it's a tradeoff and overall I prefer the electric. If this car could do 300 miles in the cold it would be the ultimate product!

[GaSelle]

Originally Posted by silent ninja

School run every morning and we use preheat then. Yes I imagine a lot of charge is being lost on heating but it's definitely more drastic with electric compared to our previous ICE cars. On an average day we probably lose 8-10% in normal weather. Right now it's 12-13% a day. I guess it's a tradeoff and overall I prefer the electric. If this car could do 300 miles in the cold it would be the ultimate product!

Well, then you should compare it to a petrol/diesel car with a petrol/diesel heater. Then your daily preheating would drain your tank without moving the car as well