[rothwem]

Originally Posted by Sfkjeld

If this thing is easily accessible from inside the car, it sure sounds better to this 65 year old than fooling around under the car. Besides, I have decided the problem is most likely the transfer case anyway. Confirmed by my new scanner. The car is throwing a transfer case fault code on top of the fact the shuddering is becoming more like lurching.

Think it's rebuilt transfer case time......

It might be too late, but the transfer case module is really really easy to get to on the X3.

Lift up the trunk floor (the one with the handle where the jack is) and set it down somewhere.

You'll see three pop rivet plastic fasteners running perpendicular to the centerline of the car at the front edge of where the floor panel you just removed goes.

Remove those fasteners by pulling the middle pin up, you can use a fork to do it. Once the middle is out, you can just grab the remaining portion with your fingers and take out.

That will free the back of the panel you need to lift. It will be still attached by the back seats, but you can get plenty of room with just lifting it a bit.

Have a friend hold the panel up a couple inches so you can get your hands in there. It's the silver electrical box on the right.

Unplug both connectors, and voila, you've got a RWD X3 with no abs.

[Sfkjeld]

After going to two BMW mechanics who wasted my time and money, I finally just decided to replace the TC with a refurbished unit. After googling a full morning researching the best unit out there, I wound up with a rebuilder in Corona California. As part of my due diligence, I spoke with a few garages that have been using these units, and they raved about the work. $1000 delivered. Then it got crazy again. The huge disparity in R/R costs. From $600 to $2200, for the same job. The $600 estimate seemed ok, since the shop had been working on my friends Porsches and MBs for decades. But when they got into the job, they decided the exhaust bolts looks too fragile and they warned me they may break the bolts then need to drill out and tap new holes in order to get the exhaust back on. I backed out of it. Called the rebuilder asking him about this. His response was quick and clear. You don’t need to remove the exhaust, just a hanger bracket. He told me to come down to Corona and he’d do it in a few hours. So I did. Dropped it off at 9am, played 9 holes at a nearby golf course, the car was ready by noon! Drives like a new car now. The charge? $400 out the door.

Really recommend this Steven’s product and his work. He does transfer cases for X3 and X5s. Really nice guy too.

http://www.tcbmwx5.com/

[rothwem]

Originally Posted by Sfkjeld

After going to two BMW mechanics who wasted my time and money, I finally just decided to replace the TC with a refurbished unit. After googling a full morning researching the best unit out there, I wound up with a rebuilder in Corona California. As part of my due diligence, I spoke with a few garages that have been using these units, and they raved about the work. $1000 delivered. Then it got crazy again. The huge disparity in R/R costs. From $600 to $2200, for the same job. The $600 estimate seemed ok, since the shop had been working on my friends Porsches and MBs for decades. But when they got into the job, they decided the exhaust bolts looks too fragile and they warned me they may break the bolts then need to drill out and tap new holes in order to get the exhaust back on. I backed out of it. Called the rebuilder asking him about this. His response was quick and clear. You don’t need to remove the exhaust, just a hanger bracket. He told me to come down to Corona and he’d do it in a few hours. So I did. Dropped it off at 9am, played 9 holes at a nearby golf course, the car was ready by noon! Drives like a new car now. The charge? $400 out the door.

Really recommend this Steven’s product and his work. He does transfer cases for X3 and X5s. Really nice guy too.

http://www.tcbmwx5.com/

Wow, that's a hell of a deal. Thanks for the link, I'm sure my transfer case will die at some point, its good to have a replacement source.

[EvilSideOfGood]

Driving with a dead tc. Had my mechanic pull the front drive shaft cuz the car wouldn't move when turning. I'm waiting for the summer to rebuild it myself. Unfortunately, I didn't know about not using the aluminum gear in the actuator. But I remember my scan tool(shwaben) said tc failure.

[Sfkjeld]

As I explained earlier, I had my rebuilt TC installed by a guy that does a lot of them. He knew a way to pull the TC out without removing the exhaust system. Before him, had another shop attempt to install it. After an hour into the job, they called me saying the exhaust bolts might be too fragile to remove intact. So the job could become quite expensive if they have to drill out and tap new ones. When I balked at it, they charged me $160 to reassemble everything. So it seems to me, they charged me $160 to incorrectly install my TC. They didn’t need to touch the exhaust bolts. So my question is, should I complain about this? I don’t expect my $$ back, but I also do not think they knew what they were doing.

[Denver Brian]

I just dropped the t-case on a 2003 without removing the exhaust. Like your guy said, remove the hangar. Heat shields all had to come off though. I'm 99% sure I just bought a t-case from the same guy off ebay. He hits a nice balance between high cost/low risk replacement (full retail) and low cost/high risk (junkyard pull & pay). I cracked apart my old case for the sake of curiosity and it ain't complicated. It looks very straight forward to rebuild. BTW, I totally buy that someone who has done this a few times could do it in 3 hours.

Now my question is if he videoed himself doing the job in 3 hours and put it on YouTube.

[Denver Brian]

Yep, just checked I got mine from the same guy on eBay. I'm thrilled to hear of your experience with him. So far I'm 100% in agreement. I wish I had found his web page instead of going through eBay. He also sells rebuilt drive shafts for a very reasonable price.

[Sfkjeld]

Originally Posted by Denver Brian

. Now my question is if he videoed himself doing the job in 3 hours and put it on YouTube.

Hah, great idea. I’ll ask him.

[gwalton]

All- Thank you for the accurate and detailed transfer case information. Disabling the inside transfer case module in the trunk allowed me to finally diagnose the 'clunk' noise and hesitation that I started to experience.

My father-in-law gave us his 2006 X3 3.0i w/ 185,000k miles a year and a half ago after purchasing a slightly used 2014 model. The car was intended for my daughter who was about to turn 16. However, she is petite and had a hard time driving it and no rear camera made it more challenging. It set around for a few months until I decided to sell my Tahoe due to a transmission issue. So, I started driving the X3 and soon after I noticed the clunk and hesitation in low gears during light acceleration. I had the drive-train checked last week and it was clean.

I knew the rear tires are more worn than the front. However, I just looked again and the front are Toyo Versado Noir and the rears are Toyo Proxes ☹. I cannot believe I did not notice this before now. Also, it has been to three shops and no one mentioned the tire mis-match!

If the mis-match and wear caused the transfer case issue- is it possible the TC will function properly after the tires are replaced or is it likely cashed?

[Sfkjeld]

But I’ll bet the TC is toast.

[Hot Daddydeath]

Ok don’t judge me too bad, I feel bad enough already. I’m new to forum-glad to be here. I have an 05 BMW X3 3.0. I bought it used. It had the three lights and awd did not work. After a lot of research and $5.97 from eBay I got it fixed. Thank you forum! Now the problem. I got stuck/flooded out in a creek up to floor boards. I know I know but I didn’t think it was that deep. It’s only been about 1000 miles since the fix was done. Now I have all three lights again and awd does not work. I have not listened underneath to hear any grinding. Also the air bag light is on all the time now. I do know water got up to the battery but don’t know if it covered it. Battery is under rear hatch. I’m wondering if getting the transfer case actuator motor submerged would have burned it out? Any diy ways of taking it off and jumpering it to test it? Again please don’t judge me too hard.

[Naevulle]

I suffered most all of the issues that most of you have mentioned. I changed the fluid to Red Line 75/90 synthetic and it helped a little. I was told that the transfer case was defective. I was curious because of the random misfires, so I replaced the crank shaft sensor ($35 on Amazon) and it seems to have fixed everything. No more lights. The tranny is shifting smooth again. No more misfires. No more jumping and clunking. My 08 X3 drives like new again.

[sayemthree]

Originally Posted by Sfkjeld

After going to two BMW mechanics who wasted my time and money, I finally just decided to replace the TC with a refurbished unit. After googling a full morning researching the best unit out there, I wound up with a rebuilder in Corona California. As part of my due diligence, I spoke with a few garages that have been using these units, and they raved about the work. $1000 delivered. Then it got crazy again. The huge disparity in R/R costs. From $600 to $2200, for the same job. The $600 estimate seemed ok, since the shop had been working on my friends Porsches and MBs for decades. But when they got into the job, they decided the exhaust bolts looks too fragile and they warned me they may break the bolts then need to drill out and tap new holes in order to get the exhaust back on. I backed out of it. Called the rebuilder asking him about this. His response was quick and clear. You don’t need to remove the exhaust, just a hanger bracket. He told me to come down to Corona and he’d do it in a few hours. So I did. Dropped it off at 9am, played 9 holes at a nearby golf course, the car was ready by noon! Drives like a new car now. The charge? $400 out the door.

Really recommend this Steven’s product and his work. He does transfer cases for X3 and X5s. Really nice guy too.

http://www.tcbmwx5.com/

This guy is awesome he is the best at rebuilding these and has the best prices he’s done to BMW X.3 transfer cases for me. Thousand dollars less than other mechanics would charge.

[BenButler]

Originally Posted by rothwem

It might be too late, but the transfer case module is really really easy to get to on the X3.

Lift up the trunk floor (the one with the handle where the jack is) and set it down somewhere.

You'll see three pop rivet plastic fasteners running perpendicular to the centerline of the car at the front edge of where the floor panel you just removed goes.

Remove those fasteners by pulling the middle pin up, you can use a fork to do it. Once the middle is out, you can just grab the remaining portion with your fingers and take out.

That will free the back of the panel you need to lift. It will be still attached by the back seats, but you can get plenty of room with just lifting it a bit.

Have a friend hold the panel up a couple inches so you can get your hands in there. It's the silver electrical box on the right.

Unplug both connectors, and voila, you've got a RWD X3 with no abs.

Thanks rothwem, that was perfect, but how do I re-initiate the module

My 2006 X3 2.0D has started doing the jerky thing on light accel, but with no error lights on the dash. Disconnecting the TC module proved its a TC/4WD system issue, not the engine.

Now I have reconnected the TC module, the ABS, 4x4 & "!" dash lights (that were not on pre test) have stayed on, and I still only have 2WD I think, HOW DO RE-INITIATE THE MODULE? I have tried a battery 10 min disconnect.
Please don't say it now needs a dealer actuator calibration or something similar, I didn't think if that before I disconnected!
Thanks

[BenButler]

Originally Posted by BenButler

Thanks rothwem, that was perfect, but how do I re-initiate the module

My 2006 X3 2.0D has started doing the jerky thing on light accel, but with no error lights on the dash. Disconnecting the TC module proved its a TC/4WD system issue, not the engine.

Now I have reconnected the TC module, the ABS, 4x4 & "!" dash lights (that were not on pre test) have stayed on, and I still only have 2WD I think, HOW DO RE-INITIATE THE MODULE? I have tried a battery 10 min disconnect.
Please don't say it now needs a dealer actuator calibration or something similar, I didn't think if that before I disconnected!
Thanks

FIXED - Ignore last post

I went through the disconnect reconnect battery & TC module loop again, and all is OK, not sure what changed, but something did. Thanks again.