[x3sm]

Originally Posted by doru

Clean everything BEFORE taking apart.
I use a washgun to clean well that area, than I wipe off with a rag. As soon as I disassemble, I stuff clean paper towel, then I take my time. Never had a problem. Did 2 N52 and a N54. In the past did 2 M54's as well.
All that crud WILL fall off when taking the oil filter housing off. And the way it's positioned, you don't even see what's going on behind it, where most the stuff is piled up. Very easy to miss and screw up a perfectly fine engine.

Oh, are you saying the grime around the outside of the housing? I would probably just remove the manifold clean it all up around and than remove the housing.

Couple of more questions. Do you need to add coolant afterwards since coolant pipe is removed, if so about how much? Also what happens to the oil in the housing, will it spill out when detached from the block?

Thanks

[doru]

Originally Posted by x3sm

Oh, are you saying the grime around the outside of the housing? I would probably just remove the manifold clean it all up around and than remove the housing.

Couple of more questions. Do you need to add coolant afterwards since coolant pipe is removed, if so about how much? Also what happens to the oil in the housing, will it spill out when detached from the block?

Thanks

I haven't lost any oil. Also, coolant will have a little loss, no issues. Once everything it's taken off and cleaned, the dripping will stop.
After the repair is done, check the expansion tank and add coolant if needed. However, as a measure of precaution, you would go through the venting of air bubbles from cooling system.
Keep the expansion tank cap on.
Press start without pressing the brake.
Hold gas pedal all the way for 10 sec
Meanwhile adjust temp setting to Max, fan speed to slowest.
The water pump will start - it will cycle at different speeds for 10-15 min or so (can't remember the exact timing).
Make sure the battery is fully charged before doing this. You can also hook up a charger while doing the procedure.
Once it's done, check the expansion tank level and top up. If the level is very low, top up and do the procedure of venting again to be sure no air bubbles were recirculated.

[McPurrs]

This is likely caused by the mechanic not priming the housing with oil after he changed it out. There is a short moment of no oil on the bearings and that is all it takes.

[Wgosma]

I'm doubtful on this priming the housing thought; The is very little oil retained in the filter/housing.

[McPurrs]

Originally Posted by Wgosma

I'm doubtful on this priming the housing thought; The is very little oil retained in the filter/housing.

You are forgetting about the oil inside the path to the housing. When the housing is removed, air allows the oil to drop back into the pan. This results in enough time of no oil while the housing and filter fill and prime, for the bearings to be dry enough to wear. Once worn, it is all down hill.

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by McPurrs

You are forgetting about the oil inside the path to the housing. When the housing is removed, air allows the oil to drop back into the pan. This results in enough time of no oil while the housing and filter fill and prime, for the bearings to be dry enough to wear. Once worn, it is all down hill.

Do you Prime the OF housing each time you install a new oil filter element?

[McPurrs]

Originally Posted by Wgosma

Do you Prime the OF housing each time you install a new oil filter element?

Wrong side. The housing is primed on the engine side, prior to installing the housing. No need to prime the element when changing oil.

[McPurrs]

More reading about priming... https://www.reddit.com/r/BmwTech/com...ilter_housing/

[Wgosma]

Originally Posted by McPurrs

Wrong side. The housing is primed on the engine side, prior to installing the housing. No need to prime the element when changing oil.

If removing the housing allows air into the housing (i.e. the system is open to atmospheric pressure) thus allowing oil to 'drain' back towards the pan via related plumbing then would not removing the OFH cap cause same condition?

[McPurrs]

Originally Posted by Wgosma

If removing the housing allows air into the housing (i.e. the system is open to atmospheric pressure) thus allowing oil to 'drain' back towards the pan via related plumbing then would not removing the OFH cap cause same condition?

No. Check valve prevents that inside the OFH

[Wgosma]

What is the procedure to 'prime' the system?

What about the case when one does an oil change; drain oil from pan, refill and then startup the motor?....virtually all the car's (new) oil is in the pan on startup, correct?

[doru]

So what is the difference between an oil change and the OFHG gasket R&R?
because in both cases the oil filter is out and the passages are open. No issues after oil changes but problems after OFHG R&R.
The oil priming theory does not hold water. I also used 0 grade oil for the last 20 years or so, never primed the system after oil changes or after OFHG R&R (which were quite a few). On older engines, like M54 as an example, the mating surface is perpendicular, so chances for debris to fall in is minimal. On the N5x is slightly canted. If debris is caked on top and between the mating surfaces of engine and oil filter housing (hard to see because it's in the back - actually side, but not visible), if not cleaned, it can fall inside.

0.02

[Wgosma]

I agree; this priming this does not make sense for this IFHG repair.
I could see it if one reassembled a motor and did not grease/lube components prior to reassembly.

[tracer bullet]

In my time as an engineer in a company that remanufactured engines, several engines made it to the dyno without oil inside. I was also once at a car show / charity event where an old Eclipse beater had the drain plug removed (pay $ to charity for a guess as to how long it'll run). In all cases engines went for about 5-6 minutes before the bearings seized either against the crank or wrist pins and made a lot of noise, even longer for that Eclipse before the engine completely seized up (the engines on the dyno always got shut down first).

I'll admit there's a chance that a couple seconds without oil pressure could indeed do it, there's always an exception to the rule, but have to say I highly doubt that just those few seconds alone are enough.

I do know of an autocrossing car however (an old Saturn) that had an engine seize up. Oil would slosh up the side of the pan every corner, away from the pickup tube, and it was during the 2nd season I think that the additive damage did indeed do the thing in. But again that was a lot of time spent in that condition spread out over a period of over a year.

I'm thinking this car had to have been running pretty low for that 60 miles...

I wonder if the OP ever got it sorted out. Who knows, maybe it was something totally different and unrelated.