[GrussellX32021]

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After much research and a little trial and error, I would like to share how I was able to install the factory hitch on my 2021 X3 30i in hopes that it helps someone else who may be struggling to do the same.

I will post several pics showing the OEM parts required and photos taken during the install process.

As stated in other posts, the X3 is no longer prewired, so I purchased after market parts for that through etrailer. Their 4/7 pin combo connector fits perfect in the X3 opening on the factory hitch.

Removing the bumper and installing the hitch was the easiest part. Etrailer has good vids to help with this. The most time consuming part was running the light wires and tapping the reverse lights. The most unnerving part was carving up the bumper cover for the new trim plate, but the factory actually marks the cutout already.

Other posts will tell you that the oem hitch eliminates the kick to open function. That is because there is no room to reinstall the sensor mounting plate. But I removed the sensors and mounted them to the lower bumper cover plate ( see pics). Frankly, the kick to open works more reliably than before... go figure. Now that I confirmed it works, I’ll remount the sensors with something a little more permanent than gorilla tape.

Without the OEM trailer module, I realize I will lose some functionality. But I may see if the dealer will code the vehicle to allow me to manually turn on the “trailer mode”. Via the TIS web site, I was able to figure how to manually wire in the OEM module, but it seemed to risky for me and a lot more work than I wanted to take on.

Cheers!

[jacko15]

Nice job! Well worth your effort. But this is the reason I've ordered every vehicle I've purchased in the last 20 years with a factory hitch.

[Maestro]

The wife did not allow the hitch on the X3 since it disable the automatic liftgate activation with your foot.

[brettl]

Begs the question, has anyone tried to retrofit a factory mounted hitch car the kick sensor for the rear hatch?

[sbt007]

Originally Posted by Maestro

The wife did not allow the hitch on the X3 since it disable the automatic liftgate activation with your foot.

Fair enough. But I would argue that the hitch is a requirement (lets say I need to carry 4 bikes or pull a trailer). But the foot activation is a convenience feature (there are other ways to open the trunk). Some people have installed the hidden hitch or another 3rd party hitch and kept the foot activation if I recall from previous threads.

[GrussellX32021]

Originally Posted by brettl

Begs the question, has anyone tried to retrofit a factory mounted hitch car the kick sensor for the rear hatch?

With installing the OEM hitch you must remove and discard the large metal bumper reinforcement bracket. The kick sensors are mounted on a large plastic plate that attaches to the reinforcement bracket. With the hitch installed, there is no longer room for or a place left to attach the large plastic mounting plate. That is why I removed the two sensors from the mounting plate and remounted them to lower bumper cover, as shown in the photos. So far works like a charm. But I doubt the dealer or anyone else would do that for you.

[GrussellX32021]

Originally Posted by sbt007

Fair enough. But I would argue that the hitch is a requirement (lets say I need to carry 4 bikes or pull a trailer). But the foot activation is a convenience feature (there are other ways to open the trunk). Some people have installed the hidden hitch or another 3rd party hitch and kept the foot activation if I recall from previous threads.

With the after market hitches, you retain the metal bumper reinforcement bracket and thus can keep the kick open sensor as mounted at the factory. But I wanted the OEM hitch, as I think it looks cleaner with the 4/7 connector mount and sits a little higher than the aftermarket hitches.

[405sux]

This is a very, very useful post, thank you.

I have a 30e that I have confirmed unfortunately does not have the 8SA Trailer Prep package, so I've got to go with aftermarket wiring.

One question I have not been able to fully answer is if you do not reprogram the car, will the proximity sensors go crazy while driving (or only in reverse)? I'm mostly interested in carrying a bike rack (larger 4-bike 1UP-USA rack).

Stealth's kit can include the OEM BMW towing module and they instruct you to contact Code My Car for recoding for towing, but if you don't have the module installed, will this even take or will the car throw errors?

[GrussellX32021]

I will be hauling bikes this weekend, so I’ll confirm then if I can turn off any false sensor alarms.

Before doing my hitch I spoke to a stealth hitch tech. They can no longer do the “OEM module” that codes into the car because BMW stopped providing the trailer prep connection point.

[405sux]

Howdy, any feedback on sensor alarms? I'm looking to pull the trigger on a hitch this week.

Thanks!

[GrussellX32021]

Took a road trip with a bike rack on the self-installed OEM hitch, without the OEM wiring or coding. No major issues, but Here’s what you can expect:

1) the blind spot sensors turned on occasionally, falsely triggered from the bikes. Easy to ignore.

2) while using the drive assist (“auto steering”) it eventually put up an error message indicating that the two rear side radar sensors were blocked. Steering still worked, but the message said assist could be limited.

3) when going into reverse, the parking sensors go crazy thinking that you are backing into the bike rack.

4) you’ll definitely want to turn off the Active PDC with braking intervention. If you leave it on, the car with brake every time you try to back up. That got me some funny looks in the parking lot the first time I tried to back out of a spot.

No issues otherwise. I may try to have someone code the car so that I can manually set it to tow mode, but I want to better understand what functions I would lose by doing that.

[405sux]

Thanks, this is really useful feedback! Appreciate all the detail you've shared.

[hrkahn]

Do you have to worry about the bike rack or the hitch activating the kick to open; causing the trunk to open into the rack?

[sbt007]

Originally Posted by GrussellX32021

Took a road trip with a bike rack on the self-installed OEM hitch, without the OEM wiring or coding. No major issues, but Here’s what you can expect:

1) the blind spot sensors turned on occasionally, falsely triggered from the bikes. Easy to ignore.

2) while using the drive assist (“auto steering”) it eventually put up an error message indicating that the two rear side radar sensors were blocked. Steering still worked, but the message said assist could be limited.

3) when going into reverse, the parking sensors go crazy thinking that you are backing into the bike rack.

4) you’ll definitely want to turn off the Active PDC with braking intervention. If you leave it on, the car with brake every time you try to back up. That got me some funny looks in the parking lot the first time I tried to back out of a spot.

No issues otherwise. I may try to have someone code the car so that I can manually set it to tow mode, but I want to better understand what functions I would lose by doing that.

Originally Posted by hrkahn

Do you have to worry about the bike rack or the hitch activating the kick to open; causing the trunk to open into the rack?

Try enabling trailer mode from the settings. (Car-->Settings-->general Settings --> Trailer Mode)
Also plugging into the electric socket will activate it.

This deactivates the rear sensors, and also only allows manual opening of trunk from the back by hand. So even accidental pressing on remote will not open trunk and avoid possible damage. Since OEM setup deletes the kick sensor, I'm not sure how that part will behave.

[Edit] ah, reading it again, looks like you do not have the wiring - so I'm not sure if this mode will still show up in iDrive.

[GrussellX32021]

That hasn’t happened yet. You have to put your foot under the car with strong intention to trigger the auto open. But something to watch out for.

[GrussellX32021]

Correct, that option will not show unless I get the car coded for the tow option. Looking into that…

[M40i4me]

Great job! Do you know if you can now activate trailer mode with the camera? This allows the camera to zero in on the hitch so you can back up perfectly under the trailer.

[GrussellX32021]

That option would only be available if I get the car coded... looking into that.

[kevinkay]

I miss my kick to open and want to mimic your setup.

PHOTO 1
I did find the hookup wire through the tow hook cover - THANKS for the tip of not having to drop the bumper again!

PHOTO 2
The wire is not long enough so you left that junction box (yellow arrow) next to the tow hook? Did you tie wrap it to something? The original setup has the wires looped (blue arrows), did you keep a loop in the hook up wires?

PHOTO 3
That splash guard you taped to butts up against the bottom of the hitch. You just have the sensor wire in contact with the metal? There is a bump/gap where the sensor wire is pancaked between the hitch and splash plate?

THANKS

[GrussellX32021]

Originally Posted by kevinkay

I miss my kick to open and want to mimic your setup.

PHOTO 1
I did find the hookup wire through the tow hook cover - THANKS for the tip of not having to drop the bumper again!

PHOTO 2
The wire is not long enough so you left that junction box (yellow arrow) next to the tow hook? Did you tie wrap it to something? The original setup has the wires looped (blue arrows), did you keep a loop in the hook up wires?

PHOTO 3
That splash guard you taped to butts up against the bottom of the hitch. You just have the sensor wire in contact with the metal? There is a bump/gap where the sensor wire is pancaked between the hitch and splash plate?

THANKS

Sorry for the delayed response... Regarding the junction box and wires: I just tied up the extra wires and attached the junction box to a flat surface behind the bumber with 3M Dual Loc (the heavy duty plastic velcro). Regarding clearance under the bumper: I did not have any problem, the "cardboard like" lower cover attached seemingly without the sensors hitting anything underneath. I am thinking maybe you have an M40 which is giving us a difference in clearance? Mine is an sDrive30. Although, the underneath in your photo does not look much different than mine... I would just attach it and see what happens. Good luck!

[kevinkay]

YEAH, Im back to kicking!

I cut a piece of scrap laminate i had, drilled and tie wrapped the sensor wires to the laminate then the original bottom splash guard on top (so the sensor wires are sandwiched between the laminate and splash guard). I have the flat sensor wire (which BMW calls the "top sensor") as the one closer to the back of the car which gets pushed against the bottom of the hitch - I think OP has the round wire as one closer to the back of the car?? I put a loop in the wires - not sure if thats necessary or why that was originally looped. I coded VAM_SMART_OPENER and VAM_ENABLE_SMART_CLOSE in BDC_BODY2 to 01 thanks to GUGIN's work -https://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1774326.

First try I thought I failed
#1. I forgot you need to have the key in proximity
#2 It's a different kick - I found it to be higher, faster and touched my toe to the bottom panel.

VERY HAPPY - thanks Grussell

[GrussellX32021]

Great job! I’ll probably redo mine the same way… but my quick fix is still holding strong.