06-18-2021, 05:50 AM | #45 |
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Agreed, as I mentioned my 2011 had (just sold it) 188,925) with 15,000 miles dealer oil changes and zero signs of sludge or wear. Now BMW has reduced it to 10,000 miles and I will follow that religiously for the next 10 years of ownership. I am not saying changing it in half the time may or may not be better, but we no longer live in the age of conventional motor oil that was spent by 3000 miles! What cracks me up is those that lease an expensive car worrying about gas prices and expensive oil changes at the dealer on a vehicle they lease for 3 years barely putting hitting the 30 to 40,000 miles mark before the rent another one. Think of the wear and tear starting a vehicle with fresh oil every 5000 miles before every part is lubricated properly in that first few seconds of life…..
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06-18-2021, 06:33 AM | #46 |
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My car is booked into the dealer next Wednesday for it's first oil change based on the warning on starting the vehicle it works out at 13,500 miles, I have actually covered 12,800 but I want to get it out of the way so booked it in earlier than I needed to as I want then to have a look at my squeaky brakes in Forward and Reverse when in a traffic Queue and when reversing onto our driveway, no problems when driven normally
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06-18-2021, 10:58 AM | #47 | |
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06-18-2021, 01:29 PM | #48 |
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Lol. Synthetic oil has come a long way since conventional mineral oil so I have never seen a Blackstone test that shows much of a difference in oil quality whether it was changed at 5000 miles or 10000. My other point was anyone leasing a car for 3 years doesn’t have to worry about it dying on them if they follow the CBS anymore than someone who buys and keeps it for 10 years. I get 10,000 miles seems way too long, but despite this I doubt that BMW hasn’t done extensive research and engineering to prove their engines would run just as well. Additionally every time you change your oil and restart the engine there are a few seconds before the new oil lubricates all the engine components which theoretically can’t be good, so what is worse for an engine, quick 5000 mile changes that could increase wear more than following the 10,000 mile intervals? Again I went 15,000 miles on my non-turbo 328 per BMW’s CBS and somehow it survived!
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06-18-2021, 03:36 PM | #49 | |
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Last edited by Wgosma; 06-18-2021 at 08:54 PM.. |
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06-18-2021, 07:14 PM | #50 | |
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06-18-2021, 07:25 PM | #51 | ||
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06-18-2021, 08:09 PM | #52 |
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First one at 1,200 miles, then at 5,000, then every 5,000 miles using BMW LL oil and an OE filter cartridge.
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06-18-2021, 08:12 PM | #53 | |
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06-18-2021, 08:13 PM | #54 | |
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“The majority of the experts have agreed that most engine wear occurs at startup, before the oil has a chance to flow. This has been a major selling point for synthetic oils since they (generally) have a much faster flow rate and the film left behind is better able to withstand the few seconds before the 'rest' of the oil gets there. But what happens when your entire oil system has been drained, and the dry start time is substantially increased? When you change your oil, hopefully you change your filter too (there are some that don't). While this is a good thing, it's also a bad thing. That first start right after the oil change is actually worse than dozens of 'regular' starts. When the engine starts, the oil is drawn into the pickup tube. From there it winds its way around the passages,and into the filter, then through the rest of the engine. I'm sure many of you have noticed a few seconds of clatter before the engine quiets down on that first start after changing your oil. What's happening is that the oil has to pass through the dry filter before it gets to where it's needed. Since the filter is dry, the first oil that goes through it is soaked into the filtering media (have someone hold a folded towel and slowly pour water over it, it won't start to leak until the towel is saturated, same principle). It's one of those things that after you hear about it, you want to smack yourself in the forehead and go: "Duh!" ...pre-oil the filter. Before installing the filter, fill it with oil. How much you pour into the filter depends on how your filter is mounted. If it's installed base-up, then fill it up, if it's installed sideways, or base down, just pour enough in to 'wet' the media. Just give it a few minutes to fully soak the media. This way there is no 'lag time' in the oil flow, and everything gets lubricated right away. This is a useful trick I learned when I worked at a quick lube place (many, many moons ago). It was policy then to pre-fill the filters on turbo engines since it was vital to get oil to the turbo as fast as possible. Why not, it only takes a minute or two, and it can't hurt.”
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06-18-2021, 08:16 PM | #55 | |
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06-18-2021, 08:18 PM | #56 | |
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06-18-2021, 08:35 PM | #57 | |
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06-18-2021, 08:36 PM | #58 | |
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Do a little research regards the key factors contributing to wear for internal combustion engines - I think you'll find my statement stands. |
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06-18-2021, 08:47 PM | #59 |
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I was skeptical about that statement for my 2011, but I never had the transmission fluid changed or any added and shifts were just as smooth as day one. Did I get lucky? Perhaps, but at least for me BMW’s lifetime statement was spot on in 10 years and 188,000 miles of driving. I would guess that an analysis would prove otherwise lol.
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