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      04-25-2019, 02:36 PM   #1
mike_MAN
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Comfort Access Not Working Properly

I have a 2015 X3 and the Comfort Access stopped working properly.
The doors will unlock with a touch on the inside handle, but the doors won't lock when the ribbon is touched, forcing me to use my key to lock the doors.

At the same time, the remote doesn't work like it use to. I'd have to have the key up close to the handle of the doors to lock it.
Also, the car mostly doesn't detect the key in my pocket so I have to put up up against the steering column for it to detect and then I can start the car.
All these issues are super annoying.

I brought it into BMW and am on the CPO extended warranty.
They told me I need to replace the "Comfort Access Module". They also said it is covered under the CPO warranty but there is a $50 deductible. They'd have to order the part for the next day.

I've read on here that they should replace this for free under warranty. I suppose this is where the CPO warranty is limited to. Also read on here that Comfort Access does not like the cold. It was always garaged in NY before my ownership.

Anybody have experience with replacing the CA modules on these cars?

4/26: Just got back from the dealer. Tech describes that they hooked it up to the computer and fault codes were found for the CAS: (codes were looked up on BMWFaultCodes)
930704: CAS: Undervoltage at input terminal 30<38
93076B: Deactivation of terminal 30B: upper startability limit reached
93076C: Deactivation of terminal 30B: upper startability limit reached, but deactivation preventer or legal load/consumer active
9308B0: Identification transmitter: undervoltage, battery
They seemed to think that by fixing this issue it would also fix the issue of the car detecting the remote.
They charged the battery and replaced the CAS module (61-35-6-809-372) and programmed the new part. They said the CAS still acts weirdly (sometimes working on demand and sometimes not), but compared it to another F25 X3 and it performs the same. Maybe the car gets confused when you test it repeatedly over a short period.
Before this, I felt like the CAS worked flawlessly. Not sure what's going on here...

They also changed the battery on one of my fob as the other didn't need changing. I still have to put it up against the steering column before I could start the car. I'll give it some more time to do more testing and see, but so far, I'm still disappointed. I might just change the batteries myself to be sure its fresh and do more testing. Another update to come.

I also didn't have to pay anything and was covered under the warranty. Advisor said the "kind of CPO warranty doesn't have a deductible." Good thing they found my warranty in the system.

FYI: I bought this car from a private sale so that makes me the 3rd owner. This is the only way that a CPO warranty could be transferred (after paying a fee and submitting a form). A service guy told me flat out that CPO warranties could never be transferred, then I showed him the form. Don't always believe what those monkeys say!

Last edited by mike_MAN; 04-26-2019 at 04:32 PM.. Reason: Update
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      04-25-2019, 04:21 PM   #2
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Did you check the battery in the key? The comfort access module should have nothing to do with starting the car.
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      04-26-2019, 08:03 AM   #3
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I don't ever recall reading anything about a $50 dollar deductible in my CPO materials, but I have had the dealer service guy mention it - as in "it looks like they decided not to charge you the $50 this time." It's either a term of CPO or it isn't, so ask to see where it is.
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      04-26-2019, 02:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_MAN View Post
I have a 2015 X3 and the Comfort Access stopped working properly.
The doors will unlock with a touch on the inside handle, but the doors won't lock when the ribbon is touched, forcing me to use my key to lock the doors.

At the same time, the remote doesn't work like it use to. I'd have to have the key up close to the handle of the doors to lock it.
Also, the car mostly doesn't detect the key in my pocket so I have to put up up against the steering column for it to detect and then I can start the car.
All these issues are super annoying.

I brought it into BMW and am on the CPO extended warranty.
They told me I need to replace the "Comfort Access Module". They also said it is covered under the CPO warranty but there is a $50 deductible. They'd have to order the part for the next day.

I've read on here that they should replace this for free under warranty. I suppose this is where the CPO warranty is limited to. Also read on here that Comfort Access does not like the cold. It was always garaged in NY before my ownership.

Anybody have experience with replacing the CA modules on these cars?
I have these exact symptoms as you describe with my 2011 335is. it started at the end of last year. I asked around on different forums, and the answers are all over the place. What people said could be the culprit:
a.) New battery in the fob. Done, and no change
b.) Car battery not charged or need changing. My car battery is relative new, AGM and is always charged - every now and then the smart charger is hooked up to the car, especially in weekends. Actually, after I took off the charger after reading this response, there was actually no change.
c.) Changing the antenna. I didn't do this, but I think the antenna works or does not work. It cannot pick up or send signals intermittently.
d.) Your response from BMW to change the CA module. Again, not sure if this is the case. Because if I go to the passenger door, that one seems to work well. Unlike the driver door and the start/stop button.

And I was thinking also it might be related to cold, because it started to act on a cold day. But now we are through this. What component could be damaged?
If by miracle you get to the bottom of this, please post with the resolution.
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      04-26-2019, 04:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pungo View Post
Did you check the battery in the key? The comfort access module should have nothing to do with starting the car.
I might change them myself and see what happens.
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      04-26-2019, 04:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opie55 View Post
I don't ever recall reading anything about a $50 dollar deductible in my CPO materials, but I have had the dealer service guy mention it - as in "it looks like they decided not to charge you the $50 this time." It's either a term of CPO or it isn't, so ask to see where it is.
Luckily, they corrected themselves!
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      04-26-2019, 04:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
d.) Your response from BMW to change the CA module. Again, not sure if this is the case. Because if I go to the passenger door, that one seems to work well. Unlike the driver door and the start/stop button.

And I was thinking also it might be related to cold, because it started to act on a cold day. But now we are through this. What component could be damaged?
If by miracle you get to the bottom of this, please post with the resolution.
I had the same scenario. Sometimes it would work, but I'd have more success on the passenger side than the driver side. I'll keep you posted if I find anything worthy.
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      05-09-2019, 09:55 AM   #8
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Well, I figured out what the problem was.
I recently hardwired a dashcam combo. It has a front camera and a back camera. The front camera being hardwired into the fuse box, and the back camera sourcing its power from the front unit. It appears that the wire going to the back camera was interfering with other factory wires. Once I unplugged the power to the back camera from the front unit, my remote works from a distance, and comfort access works on demand. Before this, the remote would need to be very close to pick up the signal.
I zip-tied the extra wire to existing factory wires and I suspect the wire is causing an electromagnetic interference with other wires.
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      06-10-2019, 01:32 PM   #9
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I figured out my problem too.
Had some interior LED lights that started to flicker Early this winter. Changed them now ( a few days ago), and my problem disappeared. I also suspect interference from those diodes once they go South. All good now
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      06-14-2019, 02:01 PM   #10
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Its crazy how sensitive them seem to be.
Given the slightest interference and it'll throw it off.
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      11-27-2019, 11:25 AM   #11
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I'm having all the same symptoms described here on my 2013 X3 35i. Changed the remote batteries and it's had no impact.

I'm not sure what else to try here as I have nothing obvious showing up as issues. I haven't wired anything new in the car. I had replaced the LED circuit boards with aftermarket ones (rear trunklid running lights) due to the two of the OEM boards crapping out. I think I had the issue showing up before this LED circuit board swap though or starting to show up.

The only other odd thing is that I get an occasional warning that my left 2-stage break light is not functioning but when I check my brake lights they all work.
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      12-03-2019, 08:02 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epiphone3 View Post
I'm having all the same symptoms described here on my 2013 X3 35i. Changed the remote batteries and it's had no impact.

I'm not sure what else to try here as I have nothing obvious showing up as issues. I haven't wired anything new in the car. I had replaced the LED circuit boards with aftermarket ones (rear trunklid running lights) due to the two of the OEM boards crapping out. I think I had the issue showing up before this LED circuit board swap though or starting to show up.

The only other odd thing is that I get an occasional warning that my left 2-stage break light is not functioning but when I check my brake lights they all work.
2-stage brake light only comes on during a hard stop, I dont think they will come on when the car is at a standstill and the foot on the brake pedal. The light bulb you need to check is on the tailgate itself, in with the LEDs there is a bulb. Check that.
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      12-12-2019, 12:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epiphone3 View Post
I'm having all the same symptoms described here on my 2013 X3 35i. Changed the remote batteries and it's had no impact.

I'm not sure what else to try here as I have nothing obvious showing up as issues. I haven't wired anything new in the car. I had replaced the LED circuit boards with aftermarket ones (rear trunklid running lights) due to the two of the OEM boards crapping out. I think I had the issue showing up before this LED circuit board swap though or starting to show up.

The only other odd thing is that I get an occasional warning that my left 2-stage break light is not functioning but when I check my brake lights they all work.
I charged my car battery recently and it seems to make the system a lot less glitchy. It's not perfect but better.

The hunt continues for the source of this issue.
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      12-12-2019, 12:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epiphone3 View Post
I charged my car battery recently and it seems to make the system a lot less glitchy. It's not perfect but better.

The hunt continues for the source of this issue.
How old is your battery? Might be time to just replace it. These cars get glitchy when there is a drop in power.
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      12-13-2019, 09:51 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by najnad View Post
How old is your battery? Might be time to just replace it. These cars get glitchy when there is a drop in power.
It's the original battery so 7 years old.
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      12-13-2019, 10:52 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by epiphone3 View Post
It's the original battery so 7 years old.
yeah, replace that battery.
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      12-17-2019, 08:34 AM   #17
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Change the battery and let us know if that solved the issues you are having!
I also have a strong feeling that its the battery giving off incorrect voltages in your case.
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      12-31-2019, 08:53 AM   #18
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I've continued to mess around with this issue a bit to better determine what is happening.

I have not yet changed the vehicle battery but got a good charge on it yesterday with my charger that I am confident got the battery up to 100%. The comfort access after a charge seems less finicky for sure. Since I've moved house, my journeys tend to be short and it's winter now and this seems to cause the battery to get weaker faster and then the comfort access issues seem to be more prevalent.

Interestingly, I can cause a "remote not detected" alert to show up by opening and closing the passenger side rear door. If I do passenger front only, it's usually fine unless the battery is weaker. If I do passenger front then passenger rear, just open and close the doors or have my wife and kid get in the car, then I get that "remote not detected" alert to show up pretty much 100% of the time.

Weird.
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      09-05-2020, 07:45 AM   #19
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Reviving this old thread. I had the vehicle battery changed for a new one recently and the issue is still there.

Maybe I need to swap the CA module but itíd be great to have a way to figure out if itís the problem before dumping hundreds of dollars into it.
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      09-03-2021, 07:26 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epiphone3 View Post
I'm having all the same symptoms described here on my 2013 X3 35i. Changed the remote batteries and it's had no impact.

I'm not sure what else to try here as I have nothing obvious showing up as issues. I haven't wired anything new in the car. I had replaced the LED circuit boards with aftermarket ones (rear trunklid running lights) due to the two of the OEM boards crapping out. I think I had the issue showing up before this LED circuit board swap though or starting to show up.

The only other odd thing is that I get an occasional warning that my left 2-stage break light is not functioning but when I check my brake lights they all work.
I am having this same issue and coincidentally it started right after I replaced an LED board in the trunk lid. Could it really be related?? Besides not detecting the key unless it's pressed to the steering column.. I also just noticed the high-pressure fuel pump is no longer priming when I unlock the doors...
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      09-04-2021, 09:05 AM   #21
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Solved for me: Bad led driver was the culprit

SOLVED: I first noticed the post from epiphone3 mentioned replacement of LED driver around the time the Comfort Access started acting up. Coincidentally, I replaced the LED driver in my hatch with a cheap eBay one the day before I noticed the car not recognizing the key fob. Changing key foB battery made no difference. Decided has nothing to lose by trying a different LED driver and started looking and Amazon and WOW... several reviews for different LED drivers mention comfort access stopped working as soon as the LED driver was replace (and one mentioned aluminum shielding on the original driver that isn't present on the knock-offs). I immediately removed the eBay LED driver and comfort access returned to working normal. Plan to try a different brand..

Amazon reviews mentioning comfort access problems after LED driver swap:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0827LZ42T...ing=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HWJMMQ4...ing=UTF8&psc=1
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      01-14-2022, 12:08 AM   #22
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I'm super relieved I found this thread before I started going after antennas, fobs, or even the CAS module for replacements. I've been struggling with inconsistent comfort access ignition since I bought my F25 and was really puzzled after changing the fob batteries didn't make any difference at all. So I pulled off the tail lights and sure enough, there are the amazon LED drivers.

But the problem is, the I've been looking for an alternative and have only found one. It looks similar but I'm not sure this one will actually be any better, the description doesn't address the comfort access issue. There's only one review saying it worked, but I'm wondering if anyone here has more information about a better replacement LED driver that worked for them.

The one alternative I've been able to find: https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Impro...20Sellers%20on
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