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      07-16-2015, 12:13 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jxterma
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Originally Posted by ///Mposter View Post
Not that I can confirm it actually fits into it but I can confirm that 7 hex is the closest size to T45.
After zeroing the EHBrake and putting on new pads, I have an yellow light on for "Parking brake malfunction". The EHBrake cannot engage when I put the parking brake. Actuator is not turning. Do you know how to reset? Thanks in advance!
I just read your other thread. I suggest that you use a tire chock on the front to secure the vehicle. Close the door , remove both side rear EHB connectors at once. ( the car senses the brake isn't on and tries to engage it sometimes). Reconfirmed that you have set the T45 EHB portion correctly. ( if tightened instead of loosened the electronic motor cannot ever lock the brakes) . Then reconnect the connectors. Quickly get back in the car and press the pedal a few times to set the caliper . This makes the pads set against the rotor. Now try to engage the hand brake with or without the car on. I really don't think it matters. It should rotate the motor and lock after a few seconds.

What i think happened is that since the pads were not seated yet, the motor rotated the assembly multiple times until it mechanically stopped and could not go anymore. Then it gave you the error.
If you do all the above and still nothing I would suggest unplugging the battery.
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      07-16-2015, 09:29 PM   #46
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Ah....the wins and lossess of DIYing. Changed my son's plugs in his Jeep. Missed connecting one spark plug lead. Had to take it to the dealer to clear the code. $100!!! They salivate for us.
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      07-17-2015, 12:13 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mposter View Post
I just read your other thread. I suggest that you use a tire chock on the front to secure the vehicle. Close the door , remove both side rear EHB connectors at once. ( the car senses the brake isn't on and tries to engage it sometimes). Reconfirmed that you have set the T45 EHB portion correctly. ( if tightened instead of loosened the electronic motor cannot ever lock the brakes) . Then reconnect the connectors. Quickly get back in the car and press the pedal a few times to set the caliper . This makes the pads set against the rotor. Now try to engage the hand brake with or without the car on. I really don't think it matters. It should rotate the motor and lock after a few seconds.

What i think happened is that since the pads were not seated yet, the motor rotated the assembly multiple times until it mechanically stopped and could not go anymore. Then it gave you the error.
If you do all the above and still nothing I would suggest unplugging the battery.
Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately still no luck. Confirmed again the slave portion of EHB was still in loose position all the way(with T45) and piston could be pushed back. In fact the EHB rotor never tried to wind although indeed periodic hand brake checking happened as I saw the warning light comes on every few minutes.
I tried again with different permutation of the following:
-Disconnected both rear motor connectors at the same time.
-Waited for the dash lights to go off.
-A few minutes later yellow light showed on dash with ding sound for parking brake malfunction.
-Reconnected connectors both at the same time.
-Pumped the brake and pulled hand brake.
-seat-belt on, doors closed and power on
-seat-belt on, doors closed and power off

Also disconnecting battery did not help. My guess if the malfunction warning was on for a long time, EHB rotor will not re-wind to avoid damaging the gear or lock the wheels if engaged?
I will take the car to local shop and hopefully it just needs a clear-and-reset. (Now I am getting paranoid if I have hardware failure)
Thanks again for the help and original post is awesome. Only I was supposed to follow it carefully.
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      07-17-2015, 12:21 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Radioactive View Post
Ah....the wins and lossess of DIYing. Changed my son's plugs in his Jeep. Missed connecting one spark plug lead. Had to take it to the dealer to clear the code. $100!!! They salivate for us.
A local shop quoted me $53+tax. For $100, you should get at least a courtesy car wash
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      07-17-2015, 12:44 PM   #49
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One last thing I didn't hear you mention. Did you ever start the car and put it in reverse or drive?
The EHB has intervened when I have been reversing and kept the door ajar. The vehicle rolled a foot and then the parking brake came on, then a screen warning.
Maybe you can get the brakes to reset by moving the vehicle first. Then try to get it to wind the EHB motor by the brake button, or if still inactive, then by leaving the door ajar while reversing. Maybe when both sides have equal rotation of the EHB motor, the error will go away.
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      07-17-2015, 01:11 PM   #50
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Found it. When the dash indicator turns yellow the EMF module is in installation mode.
There are two ways to installation mode can be cancelled.
1) by carrying out the reset function installation mode with the aid of ISTA
2) by driving the vehicle and exceeding a programmed minimum speed.
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      07-17-2015, 02:06 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mposter View Post
Found it. When the dash indicator turns yellow the EMF module is in installation mode.
There are two ways to installation mode can be cancelled.
1) by carrying out the reset function installation mode with the aid of ISTA
2) by driving the vehicle and exceeding a programmed minimum speed.
Happen to know what speed is?
I tried driving under 25 km/h in my parking lot. Since I have just done my front brakes and rotors too, I will take the car on street road and try around 50km/h maybe?
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      07-17-2015, 02:09 PM   #52
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Not sure because the document was for a bunch of different Fxx vehicles 3 series, 5 series , and ours F25. I assume it has to be highway speed. Man I hope you can figure this out without having to pay.
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      07-17-2015, 03:03 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by ///Mposter View Post
Not sure because the document was for a bunch of different Fxx vehicles 3 series, 5 series , and ours F25. I assume it has to be highway speed. Man I hope you can figure this out without having to pay.
I just went out and did over 90km/h over lunch break. It doesn't seem to work. I guess that was still not enough. I will try over 100km/h later. I just hope they don't set it to some crazy 150+ km/h speed. You have been of great help. In the end if it doesn't work out, I will just contribute my share to the local economy. No hard feelings. It's been a pleasantly interesting DIY experience.
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      07-17-2015, 03:05 PM   #54
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Well because of you I found a great document I plan to share in this thread later when I'm not on mobile. So thank you too!
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      10-07-2015, 05:49 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radioactive View Post
Try unplugging, then replugging old sensors.

Believe they are three stages. Sensor wire with no resistance runs to outside of sensor with another wire with resistance runs parallel and to the inside of other wire. Before wear current runs through outside wire. When the sensor wears enough its cuts through outside wire. Current then runs through resistance causing drop in current which computer picks up. Finally if it wears through that wire causing no current flow and warning that "Everybody is gonna die of massive brake failure"
I just ran into the Reset Unsuccessful message after replacing the rear brake sensor (with sensors purchased from eBay and shipped from Hong Kong but look exactly the same as OEM ones), then I read that you could reset the sensor by shorting the two wires, so I got the old sensor, cut the wires, spliced them together and tried resetting: Then it changed to Reset Impossible! So I got the OEM sensors from the front that I had saved from a previous trip to the dealership where they unnecessarily replaced the sensors and used those, but still will not reset. Any ideas???
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      10-09-2015, 11:40 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerald325i
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radioactive View Post
Try unplugging, then replugging old sensors.

Believe they are three stages. Sensor wire with no resistance runs to outside of sensor with another wire with resistance runs parallel and to the inside of other wire. Before wear current runs through outside wire. When the sensor wears enough its cuts through outside wire. Current then runs through resistance causing drop in current which computer picks up. Finally if it wears through that wire causing no current flow and warning that "Everybody is gonna die of massive brake failure"
I just ran into the Reset Unsuccessful message after replacing the rear brake sensor (with sensors purchased from eBay and shipped from Hong Kong but look exactly the same as OEM ones), then I read that you could reset the sensor by shorting the two wires, so I got the old sensor, cut the wires, spliced them together and tried resetting: Then it changed to Reset Impossible! So I got the OEM sensors from the front that I had saved from a previous trip to the dealership where they unnecessarily replaced the sensors and used those, but still will not reset. Any ideas???
Are you saying you jumpered both front and rear sensors at the same time and you were still unsuccessful ? If not, that might do the trick.
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      10-18-2015, 11:08 AM   #57
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@ gerald325i

So did you ever jumper both the front and rear sensors at the same time in order to get the reset ?
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      10-29-2015, 07:13 PM   #58
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ECS just shipped my front rotors and green stuff pads . Two week wait on the pads so I hope it was worth it.
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      11-01-2015, 08:33 AM   #59
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2011 BMW X3  [0.00]
this is a really great thread! thanks guys!

seems like BMW is about like MBZ, re brakes. 10 years ago i was quoted $500 per axle.. ???? for pads ??? they wanted to replace rotors too, but mine were within spec..

hi margin, fast, low-effort revenue stream for stealerships, IMHO..

quick Q: Ceramic pads worked really well on my ml430; little dust, lasted a long long time. are they useful with this chassis? or does bmw use them already?

regards, dan
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      02-07-2016, 01:22 AM   #60
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Thanks for the write up - my experience and useful info

Excellent write up and follow-up information.

My experience was the following:

By and large, it went well and without major issues.

I did not remove the EHbrake simultaneously on both sides as I had no practical way to jack both sides of the car. When the EHbrake assembly came off, the car immediately triggered a warning that the EHbrake had an issue and the dash lit up yellow. I thought this would be a problem once the job was done as some have said. This did not turn out to be the case. As soon as everything was back together, I pushed the start button once, cycled the EHbrake a few times and all was perfect.

Had some trouble getting the rotors off and and bolts from the caliper glide assembly. I live in Quebec and we have salted roads in winter and therefore, some corrosion - to say the least. WD40 sprayed to penetrate, waited a few minutes and tried again. All good and no more issue. I recommend some penetrating lubricant.

My wear sensor was in great shape. I reused it and no problem at all.

Since no one mentioned torque settings, I went with tight enough for the bolts (T30) on the EHbrake. The caliper slides are bolted with bolts that came with the pads. They are covered in LOC-Tite. Once the 13mm and 15mm are tight against each other, that's it. The caliper glide assembly has the 16mm bolts. I did search for the torque on this because it does need to be tight without stripping. The setting is 81 ft-lbs. - worked like a charm.

I used Permatex Disc Brake Quiet on the backs of the pads. Let it set up for several minutes, the longer the better. It tacks up well that way. Do not apply anything in the pad sliders. Clean those up with a steel wire brush.

I used Permatex Copper Anti-Seize on the hub before installing the new rotors. I also used it on the rotor hubs before replacing the wheels. This is for anti-seizing and easy disassembly in the future.

I finally reset the rear brake timer in the dash using the method already described in this thread.

Tomorrow I will drive the car to do a break-in procedure. This is what I do:

Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.

Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.

That's it!

Parts and supplies in Canadian Dollars (Jan 2016)

Parts purchased at autopartsway.ca
Manufacturer: Zimmermann Rotors SKU: ZIC1918578 2X $100.42 = $200.84
Manufacturer: Pagid Brake Pad set SKU: PAG1899096 1X $97.76

Parts purchased at BMW
Inner hex bolt M8X14 (Rotor bolt) part 34211161806 approx $2.50 each (2 required)

Supplies from Canadian Tire
Permatex Disc Brake Quiet #38-1400-4 $11.99
Parmatex Copper Anti-Seize #38-3776-8 $16.99

Last edited by dekodan; 02-07-2016 at 12:51 PM.. Reason: Added parts/supplies, cleaned up text
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      02-10-2016, 09:13 AM   #61
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Bavauto just posted DIY video for rear brakes with EHbrake

Very helpful addition to this thread

https://m.youtube.com/watch?ebc=ANyP...ime_continue=1
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      02-11-2016, 11:00 AM   #62
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Elc Parking Brake Malfunction

Hello, thank you for this information it is very helpful.
I performed the brake service as you outlined, however, I continue to get a parking brake "malfunction" notice. I tried both holding the parking brake button longer than normal and lifting it multiple times, but it does not activate.
Any recommendations?
That screw you turned clockwise to allow you to push the piston back in; did you then turn it counter-clockwise once the new pads where in?
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      02-11-2016, 11:17 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliforniaX3
Hello, thank you for this information it is very helpful.
I performed the brake service as you outlined, however, I continue to get a parking brake "malfunction" notice. I tried both holding the parking brake button longer than normal and lifting it multiple times, but it does not activate.
Any recommendations?
That screw you turned clockwise to allow you to push the piston back in; did you then turn it counter-clockwise once the new pads where in?
No I did not adjust the EHB motor screw after the pads were in. The toggling of the parking brake button switch made it rotate and mate.
I know one person successfully had the light turn off after reinstalling everything as mentioned above, but I think in most cases once you have the error, it's hard to get rid of it.

And thanks for the user who posted a video.
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      02-23-2016, 10:16 PM   #64
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DIY slotted rotors and pads on X3 F25

Has anyone ever used this brand called "TopBrakes" before? I found a deal for only US $302.33.
Full set - drilled and slotted rotors [front and back]
Full set - POSI QUIET Ceramic Pads [front and back]

On ebay at http://www.ebay.com/itm/361184752415...53.m1438.l2649

Free shipping in the continental US [mainland].

Part #:TBP19122

If it's as good as they say it is - GAME ON!
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      02-24-2016, 02:40 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gojukai
Has anyone ever used this brand called "TopBrakes" before? I found a deal for only US $302.33.
Full set - drilled and slotted rotors [front and back]
Full set - POSI QUIET Ceramic Pads [front and back]

On ebay at http://www.ebay.com/itm/361184752415...53.m1438.l2649

Free shipping in the continental US [mainland].

Part #:TBP19122

If it's as good as they say it is - GAME ON!
That's a pretty good deal there!
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      03-02-2016, 10:41 PM   #66
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Thanks again ///Mposter for these instructions. It sure helps having a set of steps to follow.

Just wanted to update this thread regarding the parking brake light issue.
I did NOT have any issue with the parking brake nor the light appearing after install. Here is what I did after the replacement procedure:

1) I did not open the door nor activate the onboard computer during the entire install.
2) Once the parts installed, I opened the door (car off) and manually pumped the brakes back to firm.
3) I preformed the "Rear Brake Service" reset, BEFORE starting the X3. I did NOT touch the parking brake at any time.
4) Once reset, I started the X3 and followed normal pad break-in procedure.
5) Drove a good 10 miles, ran a few errands with 2-3 stops.
6) Every restart of the X3 was normal.
7) Once home, with the engine on, I set the parking brake. It took maybe 1-2 seconds longer than normal, but engaged normally. Then disengaged and it went off normally. Tried it again, and now it set at its normal speed. This was the FIRST time I used the parking brake since install.

So a though here is to: not instigate the computer during install, drive the car normally with at least 1-2 engine stop/starts. THEN engage the parking brake for the FIRST time. This way the system knows the service has rest, is operating normally, and when its time to use the Parking brake, no issue.

Just wanted to share my experience as a data point.
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