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      10-14-2018, 02:24 PM   #1
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Question Dashcam Wire Routing / Hiding -- Suggestions?

Vehicle: 2011 BMW X3 (xDrive 35i).

I have a front and rear dash cam (Aukey DR02D). The dash cam will connect to the OBD socket for power. There will be wiring for the front dashcam to the OBD socket and another longer USB wire for the rearcam (the cam will be placed at the top center rear liftgate window).

Is there some documentation on how best to run the wiring for all this, especially the rearcam wiring.

Thanks.
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      10-14-2018, 04:21 PM   #2
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You might take a look at Bimmer-tech.net - they might have some DIY instructions and videos that are of value. I think they are more focused on add-ons that get connected to the iDrive but give a look as their backup cams obviously require one to run wires to the rear hatch area.
Good luck/Bill
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      10-14-2018, 05:03 PM   #3
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My dash cams are tapped on the fuse boxes, with a "tap-a-fuse" type wire. I then bought a power-outlet (like the cigarette lighter socket) for 10 bucks or so to use the same charger that comes in the box with the dash cam.

Both hidden in the fuse boxes, one behind the glove box and the other one behind the carpet panel on the passenger side in the trunk.

Wires hidden behind the rubber seals on the doors.

Good luck.
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      10-14-2018, 06:11 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnerDriver View Post
My dash cams are tapped on the fuse boxes, with a "tap-a-fuse" type wire. I then bought a power-outlet (like the cigarette lighter socket) for 10 bucks or so to use the same charger that comes in the box with the dash cam.

Both hidden in the fuse boxes, one behind the glove box and the other one behind the carpet panel on the passenger side in the trunk.

Wires hidden behind the rubber seals on the doors.

Good luck.
This is what I did too. Run the cable from top of windshield along the headliner and into the A-pillar before the rubber in the doors. Then route to the glovebox fusebox with an add a fuse.
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      10-14-2018, 06:19 PM   #5
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Some decent you tube vids out there as well
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      10-15-2018, 11:15 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnerDriver View Post
My dash cams are tapped on the fuse boxes, with a "tap-a-fuse" type wire. I then bought a power-outlet (like the cigarette lighter socket) for 10 bucks or so to use the same charger that comes in the box with the dash cam.

Both hidden in the fuse boxes, one behind the glove box and the other one behind the carpet panel on the passenger side in the trunk.

Wires hidden behind the rubber seals on the doors.

Good luck.
+1, did the same.

Cam turn ON when you unlock the doors, and shutoff few minutes after locking the doors.

easy and fast.
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      10-15-2018, 09:42 PM   #7
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anyone tap into the power going to the rearview mirror? Seems better than running wire around the windshield
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      10-15-2018, 09:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by najnad View Post
anyone tap into the power going to the rearview mirror? Seems better than running wire around the windshield
You can definitely do that, they make kits where you just stick a probe in the right place. Since I have a radar detector and a dashcam, I just elected to run the cables for both to the glove box.
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      10-16-2018, 09:16 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodlebro View Post
This is what I did too. Run the cable from top of windshield along the headliner and into the A-pillar before the rubber in the doors. Then route to the glovebox fusebox with an add a fuse.
What fuses did you use for it? I ran the wires and have some add a fuses, I just have to figure out what fuses to tap into.
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      10-16-2018, 09:22 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by najnad View Post
anyone tap into the power going to the rearview mirror? Seems better than running wire around the windshield
I tapped a switched 12V wire in the mirror area to install radar detector; pretty simple to do.
Attached Images
 

Last edited by Wgosma; 10-16-2018 at 10:13 AM..
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      10-23-2018, 11:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
I tapped a switched 12V wire in the mirror area to install radar detector; pretty simple to do.
Any more details? I would love to do this.
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      10-23-2018, 11:35 AM   #12
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I found some details on Bimmerfest forum- Believe it was green/brown wire. Requires removing the overhead dome light assembly, which is easy.
Out of town and away from computer - if you send me PM I will see if I can locate details in few days.
Thanks/Bill
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      10-23-2018, 02:58 PM   #13
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I tapped to Front Fuse box (under glove box) to i believe F46 fuse. That block of fuses sits on 15N power line that is powered by ignition switch (has power when ignition is on).

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...sav/1VnYbR4p3t
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      12-14-2018, 10:49 PM   #14
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I am about to install a dash cam too. I am thinking to tap it to a constant +12v, so that it will continue to record since my car park on the street.

I think the dash cam that I bought has motion sensing meaning it will start recording when it detect motion when parked

what do you guys think? Do you think it will drain the battery? Also, anyone know how to find or a location of a constant +12v.
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      12-15-2018, 07:39 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RL325xi View Post
I am about to install a dash cam too. I am thinking to tap it to a constant +12v, so that it will continue to record since my car park on the street.

I think the dash cam that I bought has motion sensing meaning it will start recording when it detect motion when parked

what do you guys think? Do you think it will drain the battery? Also, anyone know how to find or a location of a constant +12v.
It'll drain the battery, unless you buy a regulating module to shut it off once it reaches a certain voltage.

Many fuses are always on, like the alarm. It's a bit tricky to test because the car runs power even after a few minutes, so you'll have to be patient.
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      12-15-2018, 03:46 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RL325xi View Post
I am about to install a dash cam too. I am thinking to tap it to a constant +12v, so that it will continue to record since my car park on the street.

I think the dash cam that I bought has motion sensing meaning it will start recording when it detect motion when parked

what do you guys think? Do you think it will drain the battery? Also, anyone know how to find or a location of a constant +12v.
I have a Blackvue 650S and a multisafer to cut power once the battery drops to a certain voltage. Its hard wired to the 40 and 5(lower) amp fuse.

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      01-16-2019, 03:13 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE. View Post
+1, did the same.

Cam turn ON when you unlock the doors, and shutoff few minutes after locking the doors.

easy and fast.
I was wondering if you could provide steps and what exactly you used for the add-a-fuse, socket, and which fuse you tapped into in the X3.
I like this method because it is very clean and would adapt to most dash cams.

The 12V sockets I see have two wires coming out, but the add-a-fuse only has one wire coming out from the fuse plug.

Would I need to tap into (2) fuses?
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      01-17-2019, 03:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_MAN View Post
I was wondering if you could provide steps and what exactly you used for the add-a-fuse, socket, and which fuse you tapped into in the X3.
I like this method because it is very clean and would adapt to most dash cams.

The 12V sockets I see have two wires coming out, but the add-a-fuse only has one wire coming out from the fuse plug.

Would I need to tap into (2) fuses?

Hi,

1 - You need to add a fuse.

So a socket like this is needed. Theres 2 slots, one for the original fuse and the other to the red cable for the cam 12V+.



https://www.amazon.com/Support-Stand...Fuse+Tap+Piggy


On the red wire I tap a female 12V soket for the camera power. The ground is tapped on a bolt I found next to the passenger door :



2- From the little door in the glovebox, you can reach the fuse #??? (cant remember see pics for position)





3 - all wires hidden (only about 1.5'' is visible, fine for me). wires get out from the passenger side and running in the A-pillar. I did not remove the pillar, its very easy to squeeze the wire in the windshield/pillar gap

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      01-18-2019, 08:29 AM   #19
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Wow! Thank you so much for the explanation and the pictures!

I did look into getting those exact items from Amazon. It seems pretty straight forward.
I believe the fuse number you taped into is fuse #54 (also found another thread where you called it out).




According to this fuse diagram, fuse #54 looks to be the fuse for the 12V sockets, so this falls in line with what you described.
Tucking the wires underneath the trim is the easiest part in this installation.
Fuse box looks a little tough to get into. Might help to use a long needle-nose pliers.

Thanks for sharing the information. I feel confident enough to complete the install!

Edit: It also looks like regular fuses (not the mini's).

Last edited by mike_MAN; 01-18-2019 at 08:46 AM..
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      01-18-2019, 09:26 AM   #20
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yeah , Fuse #54 !

Indeed, very hard to reach since its a small access.

I managed to get my hand there, but once its there I can barely move and I can't see. I had to repeat the process few times, and I was always dropping the fuse socket.

I also used the small fuse, since I had no regular one (socket is for the big one). But small fuse will fit just fine, its just not ''100% oem proof''
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      05-13-2019, 12:21 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opulence View Post
I have a Blackvue 650S and a multisafer to cut power once the battery drops to a certain voltage. Its hard wired to the 40 and 5(lower) amp fuse.

Attachment 1955199
Is / was this wired into a 12v B+ AND ACC source?
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      10-05-2019, 08:48 PM   #22
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Fuse 58 (constant) and Fuse 65 (switched) for me. Used Add A Fuse but man it’s a tight squeeze in there.

Will monitor over the next few days- the battery management function on my Thinkware should hopefully cut off the camera before I come back to a dead battery lol
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