[glennbk]

Here I thought only SAE 0W-16 was available...

[TommyK154]

Do you guys do your oil change at home and then go to the dealership to reset the service counter? Sure changing your own oil doesn’t void any new car warranty?

[Keefy]

Originally Posted by TommyK154

Do you guys do your oil change at home and then go to the dealership to reset the service counter? Sure changing your own oil doesn’t void any new car warranty?

I go to an independent BMW specialist for my interim oil change, and instruct them NOT to update the service counter/iDrive then go to my BMW service centre for my regular servicing as dictated by the mileage /car, as I have a service plan.

[Bilbofraggins]

Originally Posted by Keefy

I go to an independent BMW specialist for my interim oil change, and instruct them NOT to update the service counter/iDrive then go to my BMW service centre for my regular servicing as dictated by the mileage /car, as I have a service plan.

I do the odd interim oil change while in warranty and do same....but after the warranties up...I do basic maint myself (oil, filters, brakes)...and reset the counter manually (stalk/dash) or using the Foxwell.

I have a great indy avail also....who does what I won't do these days...

Happy Days...

[Plusforce]

Originally Posted by TommyK154

Do you guys do your oil change at home and then go to the dealership to reset the service counter? Sure changing your own oil doesn’t void any new car warranty?

I did it at 1400 miles in an indy shop. But will do it myself at 5000. Then 10000 dealer...

[freshxdough]

Originally Posted by TommyK154

Do you guys do your oil change at home and then go to the dealership to reset the service counter? Sure changing your own oil doesn’t void any new car warranty?

Only reset light at the CBS oil service that is due. If you reset it every 5k for example you’re going to force your car to think service are due before they actually are. Like spark plugs, air filter, rear diff. They’re all tied to oil service resets.

[Alias1431]

Originally Posted by freshxdough

Only reset light at the CBS oil service that is due. If you reset it every 5k for example you’re going to force your car to think service are due before they actually are. Like spark plugs, air filter, rear diff. They’re all tied to oil service resets.

Sorta off-topic, but what are your thoughts on the trans oil? Should I go to the dealer for this, or is an indy, or even at home fine? I read somewhere that you need a special computer to have the trans "open up" the inside of the trans so you can drain the entire thing. Is this true? Would love to do it in my garage, but I'm worried that the process involves one or more things that I'm not really equipped to do...

[freshxdough]

Originally Posted by Alias1431

Sorta off-topic, but what are your thoughts on the trans oil? Should I go to the dealer for this, or is an indy, or even at home fine? I read somewhere that you need a special computer to have the trans "open up" the inside of the trans so you can drain the entire thing. Is this true? Would love to do it in my garage, but I'm worried that the process involves one or more things that I'm not really equipped to do...

Drain and fill at 50-60k. Use trans temp sensor to monitor temperature while filling. Fill trans at 30-40*C trans oil temp. You usually have to let the car sit overnight to be cold enough to balance the oil level.

[glennbk]

Originally Posted by freshxdough

Drain and fill at 50-60k. Use trans temp sensor to monitor temperature while filling. Fill trans at 30-40*C trans oil temp. You usually have to let the car sit overnight to be cold enough to balance the oil level.

Car Ninja just did a segment on removal and replacement of transmission fluid. Take a peek at Youtube. As for fluid, almost everywhere I look and read says to use OE fluid and the right one. Ho many miles are on your car? Do you have the ability to capture the waste oil? You can use that as a general amount to put back in.

[kevinwoods]

I used to own a 2006 Acura MDX and it used 5W20 and 0W20. No issue with engine after 200k miles.

[g11hoonigan]

Originally Posted by glennbk

Car Ninja just did a segment on removal and replacement of transmission fluid. Take a peek at Youtube. As for fluid, almost everywhere I look and read says to use OE fluid and the right one. Ho many miles are on your car? Do you have the ability to capture the waste oil? You can use that as a general amount to put back in.

That's what I've been doing on my cars - measure the amount that came out and put the same amount of fresh oil in.

I do understand the concept around oil expansion relative to temp but if I were to leave both used and fresh oil at the same room temp then it shouldn't matter, right? Or if one says the used oil already contains contaminants, crude, etc. that I need to account for, how much of that really go into ~3-4 liters of drained oil anyway.

Someone may keep me honest but removal of the trans dip stick doesn't necessarily mean they made the transmission so precise that it only takes exact amount of oil. There's still some allowances on oil level besides thermal expansion.

[freshxdough]

Originally Posted by g11hoonigan

That's what I've been doing on my cars - measure the amount that came out and put the same amount of fresh oil in.

I do understand the concept around oil expansion relative to temp but if I were to leave both used and fresh oil at the same room temp then it shouldn't matter, right? Or if one says the used oil already contains contaminants, crude, etc. that I need to account for, how much of that really go into ~3-4 liters of drained oil anyway.

Someone may keep me honest but removal of the trans dip stick doesn't necessarily mean they made the transmission so precise that it only takes exact amount of oil. There's still some allowances on oil level besides thermal expansion.

These newer transmissions are much more picky to trans fluid being over filled or under filled. That is why it’s important to add the correct amount at the proper trans oil temperature.

[mattsheng]

Originally Posted by freshxdough

These newer transmissions are much more picky to trans fluid being over filled or under filled. That is why it’s important to add the correct amount at the proper trans oil temperature.

What freshxdough said + make sure your car is level when draining or filling ANY oil whatsoever. I saw so many DIY videos on youtube where people just jack up the front to change oils and people in the comment section applause how great the video was...

[ContactPatch]

Originally Posted by freshxdough

Drain and fill at 50-60k. Use trans temp sensor to monitor temperature while filling. Fill trans at 30-40*C trans oil temp. You usually have to let the car sit overnight to be cold enough to balance the oil level.

Question: How do heat the trans fluid to 84F to 104F before you install it? Is there a trans fluid warmer?

[mattsheng]

Originally Posted by ContactPatch

Question: How do heat the trans fluid to 84F to 104F before you install it? Is there a trans fluid warmer?

You will fill the transmission to the drain plug edge and run it until the transmission oil temp is between 30 - 40 C. Ideally, you would need to use ISTA to carry out the service function "Gearbox control: oil level adjustment". This post here should have all the details: https://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showp...44&postcount=2

[g11hoonigan]

Originally Posted by freshxdough

These newer transmissions are much more picky to trans fluid being over filled or under filled. That is why it’s important to add the correct amount at the proper trans oil temperature.

Are you allowed to share more info that substantiate that statement?

A little background - I used to maintain multi-million dollar robots that calibrate beyond ten thousandth of an inch. So I'm all ears on more technical approach rather than generalization.

[g11hoonigan]

Originally Posted by mattsheng

What freshxdough said + make sure your car is level when draining or filling ANY oil whatsoever. I saw so many DIY videos on youtube where people just jack up the front to change oils and people in the comment section applause how great the video was...

Well, he didn't address the idea of refilling with the same amount of oil drained

Do we know what else is at play why temperature is important for proper leveling? Because all I know is due to thermal expansion/viscosity (of oil). But if there's anything other than that, by all means let us know.

If not, amount of oil drained out = amount of oil to refill (unless there's a solid reason to believe that oil level wasn't correct to begin with)

[glennbk]

Originally Posted by g11hoonigan

That's what I've been doing on my cars - measure the amount that came out and put the same amount of fresh oil in.

I do understand the concept around oil expansion relative to temp but if I were to leave both used and fresh oil at the same room temp then it shouldn't matter, right? Or if one says the used oil already contains contaminants, crude, etc. that I need to account for, how much of that really go into ~3-4 liters of drained oil anyway.

Someone may keep me honest but removal of the trans dip stick doesn't necessarily mean they made the transmission so precise that it only takes exact amount of oil. There's still some allowances on oil level besides thermal expansion.

I always try to let the car cool first and then remove/measure. Any difference in temperature will be negligible. Also remember, you fill until fluid comes out the weephole. Then start the car, let it warm up (10 minutes) and then try to add more fluid. If it starts to dribble out, you're done. Some people say to warn the car up first, apply the brakes and then slowly cycle through the gears. This should get it into every space. Top up fluids and then you are done. I highly doubt the dealer will be this anal, but I have friends that are and spend a few hours going step-by-step.

[mattsheng]

Originally Posted by g11hoonigan

Well, he didn't address the idea of refilling with the same amount of oil drained

Do we know what else is at play why temperature is important for proper leveling? Because all I know is due to thermal expansion/viscosity (of oil). But if there's anything other than that, by all means let us know.

If not, amount of oil drained out = amount of oil to refill (unless there's a solid reason to believe that oil level wasn't correct to begin with)

Well, there could be oil consumption or leakage so amount in = amount out doesn't cut it.

Plus, I assume most of you will be changing the filter (built into the plastic oil pan), though not significant but how do you measure the amount of oil trapped in the filter? (just for the sake of argument)

[g11hoonigan]

Originally Posted by mattsheng

Well, there could be oil consumption or leakage so amount in = amount out doesn't cut it.

Plus, I assume most of you will be changing the filter (built into the plastic oil pan), though not significant but how do you measure the amount of oil trapped in the filter? (just for the sake of argument)

C'mon brah, give us something that isn't more obvious than that

Let's use the mileage stated above - 50k-60k miles interval - as the baseline. And if someone decides changing his trans oil after, say, 150k miles, I bet he should be concerned of potential deterioration done on components more than the remaining oil level.

Those trapped in the pan is minimal. Or anyone can just let it drip into his used oil container to get accounted for.

Just to be clear:
- I know mattsheng and freshxdough work at a BMW dealership. This is by no means questioning their ability to perform and make decisions on their respective day job. I'm sure many of us here actually appreciate their contribution to the forum - at least I do.
- Just because I side with measuring the amount of oil drained/filled on the past few posts doesn't mean that is solely what I recommend or condone. In fact, I have trans temp measuring device and have always been using it. However, I do believe measuring drained oil is equally acceptable - and more convenient if I may add
- I'm just challenging specific statement made publicly on this thread

[g11hoonigan]

Originally Posted by glennbk

I always try to let the car cool first and then remove/measure. Any difference in temperature will be negligible. Also remember, you fill until fluid comes out the weephole. Then start the car, let it warm up (10 minutes) and then try to add more fluid. If it starts to dribble out, you're done. Some people say to warn the car up first, apply the brakes and then slowly cycle through the gears. This should get it into every space. Top up fluids and then you are done. I highly doubt the dealer will be this anal, but I have friends that are and spend a few hours going step-by-step.

Yep, I concur.

[mattsheng]

Originally Posted by g11hoonigan

C'mon brah, give us something that isn't more obvious than that

Let's use the mileage stated above - 50k-60k miles interval - as the baseline. And if someone decides changing his trans oil after, say, 150k miles, I bet he should be concerned of potential deterioration done on components more than the remaining oil level.

Those trapped in the pan is minimal. Or anyone can just let it drip into his used oil container to get accounted for.

Just to be clear:
- I know mattsheng and freshxdough work at a BMW dealership. This is by no means questioning their ability to perform and make decisions on their respective day job. I'm sure many of us here actually appreciate their contribution to the forum - at least I do.
- Just because I side with measuring the amount of oil drained/filled on the past few posts doesn't mean that is solely what I recommend or condone. In fact, I have trans temp measuring device and have always been using it. However, I do believe measuring drained oil is equally acceptable - and more convenient if I may add
- I'm just challenging specific statement made publicly on this thread

First thing first, I don't work at a BMW dealer 😂.

I do think measuring the amount of fluid out can give you a good estimate of how much fluid to pump back in but it could be hard to put back the exact amount you drained. For instance, FCP Euro's video shows that fluid can leak out of the fill plug (though not significant) even when the transmission is not full yet. Second, significant amount of fluid will escape when the transmission is almost full due to difference in air pressure. So filling the exact amout of fluid you drained can be difficult.

Now going back to measuring fluid level at certain temperature range. In addition to thermal expansion, fluid surface tension and viscosity also change due to temperature, which will in term affect how likely the fluid will escape the fill port. I'm pretty sure ZF has done their math correctly and advised auto makers to only check the fluid level at certain temperature range.

There might be other factors at play but that's all I can think of for now.