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      05-26-2019, 10:50 PM   #1
Ronco21
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Unhappy Major Electronics Malfunction

Hi,

I have a 2011 X3 Xdrive 35i with 70K miles. One day when attempting to start the car everything woke up (as usual) and the car turned over and started. However, the car died after about 2 seconds of running. Repeated attempts to start exhibited the same result.

I replaced the battery as it was the original and did the registration. The car unfortunately still does not stay running. I read the codes which took me in several directions but again the same results. I've replaced the power module located under the cowling (drivers side) under the hood. I've also replaced the fuel sensor module located under the rear seat. I've literally checked hundreds of grounds because I believed (and its still possible) thats what's wrong.

Presently, the car does not always turn on and when it does the starter will not engage when the button is pushed. All the lights on the dash flicker as well as the screen. The door locks will not operate with the key fob or any of the door mounted switches. As I mentioned earlier I get a multitude of codes including chassis stabilization, transmission, light malfunction, etc. The next time I might get something else.

I'm just wondering if the ECM is bad or if anyone has had a similar problem. I've checked every fuse and they all are good. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

Thank you,

Ronco21
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      05-28-2019, 01:56 PM   #2
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>>lights on the dash flicker as well as the screen. (c)

Weird...
1) 12v fluctuation? You may not have a stable 12V feed. I would connect oscilloscope and record any deviation (trigger on outside of tolerance window, <11V & >14V)

2) Check what blocks show unstable behavior and compare to wiring diagramm - if they are on the same CAN bus. If yes - that is you answer, you may have intermittently shorted/open CAN bus, no ECUs can reliably exchange data.

3) was the car flooded, rained in recently?

4) mouse making a nest behind the dashboard eating wires along the way? remove footwell and dashboard panels and check for obvious signs....


All above is only guessing.

Last edited by F30ed; 05-28-2019 at 02:14 PM..
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      05-28-2019, 05:54 PM   #3
Ronco21
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Smile

F30ed,

Definitely a 12V fluctuation as the car only wakes up on occasion and the starter now never engages. It makes sense that the ECUs can not exchange data.

The fact that the door locks never work points me to the drivers side footwell where their electronics exist. To answer your question about water, the car was never flooded or rained on/in.

Let me get inside the footwell as see what I can find. Thanks for your insight and I will get back with you.

Much appreciated,

Ronco21
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      05-29-2019, 03:51 PM   #4
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Check this message: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1616765

A guy had multiple systems malfunction because one module shorted CAN-bus wire.
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      05-31-2019, 07:59 PM   #5
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Smile Major Electronics Malfunction

I removed the Footwell Module and looked for any sign of rodents or compromised wires. The entire area was clean as a whistle so I simply reinstalled the module. I hooked up the battery and the car came alive including the door locks and the power windows. I'm going to put the car back together and try starting. Let you know.

Thank you,

Ronco21
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      06-07-2019, 07:39 PM   #6
Ronco21
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I put the car back together and tried to start it. Same thing happened as occurred in the original problem. Car ran for a second and then it shut off. This time the car went totally dead and there was no power anywhere except the headlights stayed on for some reason and then timed out. I think there is a problem in the FRM module but I haven't a clue what to do. I've heard of replacing them but then I would need to reprogram. Are you aware of what software I need like ITSA and where to obtain it?

Thank you,

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      06-10-2019, 05:16 PM   #7
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I personally would not replace anything until figuring out what exactly is the problem.
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      06-12-2019, 06:58 PM   #8
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You are correct. The FRM wont fix the voltage interruption, it only seemed to wake up the car after I removed it. After trying to start the car it went to "black!" I only have the fuse box behind the glove box to check out. So far every fuse and relay that I know of has checked out. Thanks for your help.

Ronco21
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      06-13-2019, 09:59 PM   #9
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Lightbulb Major Electrical issue

I had a similar problem this morning. Started up fine (doors wouldn't open with comfort access, which has been happening intermittantly) drove to my workout, nothing suspicious during the 5 minute drive. Finished the workout and got in the car to drive home, nothing came on when I tried to start the car except the windshield wipers. Wipers wouldn't turn off. Tried to put the key near the steering column to start the car. It started, but everything was still blank, all the guages, radio and screen were blank. No power steering or anything worked. I shut it off, tried to jump it thinking maybe the battery was really weak. The jump didn't do anything. Went home and got the spare key fob, first 2 - 3 attempts had the same result. Ready to have it towed... the tow truck driver wanted it in neuteral to tow, tried to start it and it fired right up (using spare key fob), only now the engine light was on. Drove it to the dealer and they're looking it over now. They indicated they saw lots of footprints in the underside of the hood, so it's likely faulty wiring due to some rodent. Will likely know more in a day or two.
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      06-15-2019, 04:45 AM   #10
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I had this problem on my 06 325xi, and symptoms recently started on my girls 09 328xi. I changed the ground cable by the coil packs (near cylinder 3 i think) and the interference suppression band that is by the alternator and my issues were resolved. I should note the 325xi also had a roasted IBS cable that needed to be changed out.

Further research brought me to the conclusion that these bands need to be changed out ever 9-10 years. When I pull them out after that time, they are always shot/frayed/green/corroded. So I am now changing these cables on my other 5 E90's that are coming of age, and will be doing this on my 2011 F25 N55. Its a relatively easy DIY if you are not afraid to get dirty, cables cost $100 for both interference bands.

I havent checked real oem to see if the F25 has the same setup in terms of cables, I will get back to you when I do with part numbers.
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      06-17-2019, 12:25 AM   #11
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Mine first started with the windshield wipers coming on when I tried to start the car. What cured it was removing the negative wire from the battery for a few minutes (then re-hooking) and then everything was fine for a few days. It got progressively worse until it would no longer stay running. With this I also got the electric steering not working and another time I couldn't shut the alarm off. It was completely "haunted"
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      06-17-2019, 12:33 AM   #12
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Thanks for the tip on the coil pack grounds. I will check those out. The larger interference bands as you call them by the alternator are difficult to get to. I have a hoist and I can see them but it looks like several panels have to be removed but you suggest replacing them rather than removing and cleaning them up? I know what you mean by that green oxidized look. Thanks for the help and I will check it out tomorrow. Much appreciated ATX Husker and Kiemyster.
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      06-17-2019, 01:09 AM   #13
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I doubt that it is the problem, but check the ground strap on the rear hatch. When the hatch is open, it's on the left side, near the hinge. Many 2011's had those ground straps replaced under warranty.
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      06-17-2019, 01:13 AM   #14
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Another ground to check is the starter motor ground. That one bit me in the butt, and required a tow truck with a dolly to get it to the dealer. My F25 wouldn't start, and there was no way to take it from Park to Neutral to load it on a truck. It presented as a Transmission error, but the 2nd dealer tech (yes, it cost me a few bucks) identified it as the starter motor ground.
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      06-17-2019, 07:09 PM   #15
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I had previously fixed the hatch ground cable when I first purchased the car. It was fine for six months before any electrical problems started. I did get at the battery starter ground cable. It read zero ohms in the car and I removed it and cleaned it up and put it back on the car. Unfortunately, that did not do the trick. I don't see a starter motor ground as the motor itself is grounded when it is mounted to the engine. There is a brown ground wire for every coil pack and that I haven't looked at.
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      06-23-2019, 11:53 PM   #16
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Yeah the ground cables can be a pain to get to, I always get a friend to help me out to make life much easier. One person on the ground/under the car, the other above. Person on top aligns/tightens the bolt, person on the ground holds/aims the socket extension. Be sure to make sure your IBS cable shows no signs of corrosion, rust, oxidation, or has any melted plastic on it. My 325xi IBS cable was completely melted, and I have a bad cable on my '11 335xi showing some rusting and is causing electrical issues.

Also, remove any non OEM interior bulbs/headlight bulbs. If you have any interior LED's, they are a known cause for electrical issues if they do not have CANBUS modules on them and most people are not bothered to get the right ones. My '10 N54 has this issue thanks to the previous owner who bought ebay LED's and cause the car to go nuts sometimes. Biggest issue is that it causes interference with comfort access and kills radio transmission from my key fobs.

Good luck!
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      07-11-2019, 03:24 PM   #17
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does anybody know where is the ground for the DME unit? I just replaced an engine and it wouldn't start because the ground was not in the proper location now I tested it with the probe I need to find the proper location. I have a 2011 x3 28i
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      07-16-2019, 12:07 AM   #18
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Forgot to post this, its part #2 on the diagram.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=12_1641
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      08-12-2019, 09:19 PM   #19
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Smile Major Eectronics Malfunction

I've found a bad ECU which was giving my car various electronic problems. This is the ECU that is bad; Part number - 9359011 5WK50820HBR. It is located under the dash near the steering column. I tried to repair the module with a low heat solder pencil because these modules now use the low temperature low lead solder. I thought I had it repaired but today it started again with some intermittent problems. I do have the exact replacement module but it will not work because it is not married to the cars VIN. Does anybody know how to initialize the new model board to the car? Will any of the software programs do the programming?

Thank you,

Ronco21
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      08-13-2019, 03:53 PM   #20
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Hi, sorry to move this thread but does anyone have a diagram of how to remove a fuse from the fuse box or access the rear fuse box off ISTA. I need to show the dealers how access the fuse panel without breaking the cut out in the mat.
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      08-13-2019, 08:02 PM   #21
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Smile ECU Malfunction

I've found a bad ECU which was giving my car various electronic problems. This is the ECU that is bad; Part number - 9359011 5WK50820HBR. It is located under the dash near the steering column. I tried to repair the module with a low heat solder pencil because these modules now use the low temperature low lead solder. I thought I had it repaired but today it started again with some intermittent problems. I do have the exact replacement module but it will not work because it is not married to the cars VIN. Does anybody know how to initialize the new model board to the car? Will any of the software programs do the programming?

Thank you,

Ronco21
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      08-20-2019, 01:37 PM   #22
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Ronco21, how you determined the problem? What did you repair inside of ECU?
The ECU you posted is CAS system, which the center "brain" of the car that controls access, security, OBDII and I believe inter-buss transfers. Coding it will be not as simple, it should have VIN number coded and on mismatch with engine VIN will not work.
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