[Dawgz]

Are people still using 0w20 and 0w30 on these? why not 5W40?

0w30 seems so light.

[JB20DGM]

The S58 wants 0w30 oil which is in theory spec'd for the clearances of the rotating assembly and etc. A thicker oil may give more oil pressure but that can be coming at the expense of actual oil flow through the system and between the parts that matter. A high quality 0w30 (or maybe 5w30) matters more than anything.

You think 0w30 is light...there are engines out there running 0w16 now.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by JB20DGM

The S58 wants 0w30 oil which is in theory spec'd for the clearances of the rotating assembly and etc. A thicker oil may give more oil pressure but that can be coming at the expense of actual oil flow through the system and between the parts that matter. A high quality 0w30 (or maybe 5w30) matters more than anything.

You think 0w30 is light...there are engines out there running 0w16 now.

Your "argument"doesn't make any sense.
First and foremost, your 0W30 oil can be up to 200 times thicker at extremely low temperatures then at 100c. So how does engine survives that?
Second, all these engines are specd. for LL04 in EU and in some markets (Russia, Belarus, Mongolia, many African markets, with high sulfur gas) to LL01 oils. LL01 and LL04 are HTHS min. 3.5cP oils.
Basically, grade or KV100 is irrelevant. What REALLY matters is High Temperature/High Shear (HTHS) which is resistance of oil to temporary or permanent loss of viscosity. Higher HTHS more resistance to loss, but also more resistance in general hence more consumption. In S58 engines you want to have HTHS between 3.5 and 4. You could go higher, but it is not necessary and performance suffers.BMW uses LL01 FE with min. HTHS of 3cP to bump mpg and with that be CAFE compliant.
Going thicker is not an issue. It NEVER is. Going thinner on other hand is. Because HTHS, because oil could wash faster of pistons, because variable timing etc.
Good example: Toyota recommends for 2GR-FE and 2GR-FKS engines in US 0W20 oils. In EU, they recommend ACEA C3 oils that are usually XW30 or XW40 with minimum HTHS of 3.5 (like LL04). In Australia, they recommend in certain areas 20W50!

[DBU]

Old thread, but a good DIY for oil and filter change on the S98 motor, although I disagree on some of the points the OP made.

I have attached a document that appears to be the official BMW instructions for how to change the oil and oil filter.

In the document, you will see some yellow annotation boxes I have added with my personal experience and tips. Just hoover your mouse over the boxes to see the text.

I recommend removing the strut brace and air filter box. It take about 5 minutes and improved the access to the oil filter housing tremendously.

[Gsavarese]

If a dealer oil change doesn’t include removing oil cooler, and the BMW instructions suggest they don’t, there’s another liter of that mucky oil left over after the drain?

[Dawgz]

Originally Posted by PALOWKE

Remove the oil cooler and release 1L of used oil。

Wow

[DCC]

The routine oil change for the S58 can be performed without removing the strut brace or the air box or any vacuum lines.
This is assuming you have medium size or smaller hands LOl

Don’t forget to seat the oil filter into the oil housing before attaching the screw on cap (not the other way around).

Happy motoring

[DBU]

Originally Posted by PALOWKE

Remove the oil cooler and release 1L of used oil。

Curious how much oil you then put back in? An extra liter would mean 8 liters, yes?

[DBU]

Originally Posted by DCC

The routine oil change for the S58 can be performed without removing the strut brace or the air box or any vacuum lines.
This is assuming you have medium size or smaller hands LOl

Don’t forget to seat the oil filter into the oil housing before attaching the screw on cap (not the other way around).

Happy motoring

I know that is what the instructions says, but why??

[dmanb2b]

I'll stick with a 5k oci and worry less about the oil left in cooler 🤓

[edycol]

Originally Posted by dmanb2b

I'll stick with a 5k oci and worry less about the oil left in cooler 🤓

5k is way to go and not to worry about oil in oil cooler.
That is good report, though flash point is down which means you do have some fuel in oil.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by PALOWKE

经销商的换机油操作不包括拆卸油冷器，但是油冷器中的机油的确要在机油温度高于105℃时才参与循环，拆卸 油底壳螺丝无法放出油冷器中的机油。这旧机油通常很黑。

The distributor's oil change operation does not include removing the oil cooler, but the oil in the oil cooler does not participate in the cycle until the oil temperature is higher than 105°C. Removing the bottom shell screws cannot release the oil in the oil cooler.This old oil is usually very dark.

There is bit of flow between cooler and rest if system. You cannot 100% block flow as you really don't want cold oil rushing into hot engine.

[Kevin_The_Clean1]

Originally Posted by DCC

The routine oil change for the S58 can be performed without removing the strut brace or the air box or any vacuum lines.
This is assuming you have medium size or smaller hands LOl

Don’t forget to seat the oil filter into the oil housing before attaching the screw on cap (not the other way around).

Happy motoring

I have medium sized hands. But... still can't figure out how I'm going to get back there to install the new oil filter.

[DCC]

Originally Posted by Kevin_The_Clean1

I have medium sized hands. But... still can't figure out how I'm going to get back there to install the new oil filter.

The hardest task is to loosen and tighten the oil filter cap due to insufficient space for a wrench.
So the need for some flex joints and extensions becomes necessary. And we all know such a setup is always never smooth operating and can lend a false sense of tightness of the oil filter cap…

Can you reach the filter cap with your hand? If so, you just need to loosen with wrench/extensions, then hand turn the cap off. The install is reversed starting the cap by hand then tighten with wrench/extensions at the end.

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by DCC

The hardest task is to loosen and tighten the oil filter cap due to insufficient space for a wrench.
So the need for some flex joints and extensions becomes necessary. And we all know such a setup is always never smooth operating and can lend a false sense of tightness of the oil filter cap…

Can you reach the filter cap with your hand? If so, you just need to loosen with wrench/extensions, then hand turn the cap off. The install is reversed starting the cap by hand then tighten with wrench/extensions at the end.

This is my experience as well. Definitely doable, quite a bit more involved from past straight six layouts, other than the b58. Makes me wonder if BMW placed it there on purpose to persuade the DIY crowd to come back for dealer service

[Dawgz]

Originally Posted by dmanb2b

This is my experience as well. Definitely doable, quite a bit more involved from past straight six layouts, other than the b58. Makes me wonder if BMW placed it there on purpose to persuade the DIY crowd to come back for dealer service

I thought exactly the same.

Also thought that most dealership techs will likely avoid the filter and pretend it was done lol.

[DBU]

Originally Posted by Dawgz

I thought exactly the same.

Also thought that most dealership techs will likely avoid the filter and pretend it was done lol.

I have every intention to put a mark of some kind on the oil filer housing before I have my next oil change done at the $tealership. Snap a picture and it better look different when I get the car back...

[Dawgz]

Originally Posted by DBU

I have every intention to put a mark of some kind on the oil filer housing before I have my next oil change done at the $tealership. Snap a picture and it better look different when I get the car back...

Haha keep us updated!

[JB20DGM]

My dealership has a huge loft with windows that looks directly out over the shop, so I usually just wait for the car when I bring it in and work from there. The more major services when they did plugs, air filters and oil the intake came off. When it was just the oil change I could see them fishing a couple extensions down to get the filter out and pull it...from my vantage point it seemed more annoying than just the few extra nuts and clamps to pull the intake and have a clear shot at it.

[Dawgz]

Originally Posted by JB20DGM

My dealership has a huge loft with windows that looks directly out over the shop, so I usually just wait for the car when I bring it in and work from there. The more major services when they did plugs, air filters and oil the intake came off. When it was just the oil change I could see them fishing a couple extensions down to get the filter out and pull it...from my vantage point it seemed more annoying than just the few extra nuts and clamps to pull the intake and have a clear shot at it.

Even with the intake off it's a pain.

[Kevin_The_Clean1]

Originally Posted by Dawgz

Even with the intake off it's a pain.

I fully agree. This weekend I may be attempting this fun oil & oil filter change job.

[DCC]

The air filter doesn't need to come off.
You take a few minutes to see how the cap sits and then you do it by feel.
Good lighting is critical.

Note: the filter has to go in first and sit in a specific location within the cannister, then screw the cannister cap on.