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      01-22-2019, 02:58 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersebbo View Post
I've been looking through a few technical docs related to this system. I believe it should be possible to keep the flap open a with a fuse-pull rather than disconnecting the module entirely.

This document describes the function of module Y42a (Electrical Exhaust Flap). According to the fuse board wiring, module Y42a is the only circuit serviced by fuse F203.

Now, as the unit is a PWM driven servo, it will fail in its current state if the power is removed. So you would need to use BimmerLink or another method to make sure the flap is opened when you pull the fuse.

Upon fuse replacement it should revert to the commanded position.

The document also confirms the flap position is driven by the following inputs (and not strictly driving mode):
  • Engine speed
  • Load
  • Driving speed

I was looking into the fuse solution and it looks like this is another method used on other BMW chassis (primarily F series - if you google search) and seems to be safe. Have you tried this yet?
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      01-23-2019, 07:59 PM   #68
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Had a chance to pull fuse 203 today with positive results. Steps: start and warm up, drive for 10-15min in sport mode, stop and turn off, pull fuse 203 or disconnect the valve connector to get a permanent open valve.
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      01-23-2019, 08:52 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therealtk View Post
Had a chance to pull fuse 203 today with positive results. Steps: start and warm up, drive for 10-15min in sport mode, stop and turn off, pull fuse 203 or disconnect the valve connector to get a permanent open valve.
Wouldn't the valve be closed when you turn off the car?
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      01-23-2019, 09:03 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kozumasbullitt View Post
Wouldn't the valve be closed when you turn off the car?
If you close the doors and lock the car it will return to default closed in comfort mode.
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      01-24-2019, 01:39 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therealtk View Post
If you close the doors and lock the car it will return to default closed in comfort mode.
Sorry for the noob question but where is that fuse box?

In the meantime I started the car drove for 5 mins confirmed the driver side was open and not closed and with the car on pulled the plug. It threw a code on my JB4 saying exhaust flapper disabled so I assume the fuse method would be the same. I put a single layer of electrical tape over it and push it back on snug enough not to fall out till I pull the fuse once i find it. Starts up with both sides open so far so good. Haven’t Driven with it yet. Thanks everyone very helpful info!
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      01-24-2019, 06:56 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808ron View Post
Sorry for the noob question but where is that fuse box?

In the meantime I started the car drove for 5 mins confirmed the driver side was open and not closed and with the car on pulled the plug. It threw a code on my JB4 saying exhaust flapper disabled so I assume the fuse method would be the same. I put a single layer of electrical tape over it and push it back on snug enough not to fall out till I pull the fuse once i find it. Starts up with both sides open so far so good. Haven’t Driven with it yet. Thanks everyone very helpful info!
The fuse panel for 203 is located in rear right interior. If you open the hatch it’s immedately to the right behind a panel that pulls out and some sound deadening material.
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      01-24-2019, 07:22 AM   #73
supersebbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therealtk View Post
Had a chance to pull fuse 203 today with positive results. Steps: start and warm up, drive for 10-15min in sport mode, stop and turn off, pull fuse 203 or disconnect the valve connector to get a permanent open valve.
Awesome!! Glad you were able to validate this

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kozumasbullitt View Post
Wouldn't the valve be closed when you turn off the car?
Not necessarily, the 'default' position of the flap is open. The documents say that if the PWM signal is lost from the ECU, the flap will default open (to avoid damage to the engine under load). So it would have to be commanded shut again, which probably only happens when the engine cools down or the car restarts in Comfort.
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      01-24-2019, 08:36 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therealtk View Post
Had a chance to pull fuse 203 today with positive results. Steps: start and warm up, drive for 10-15min in sport mode, stop and turn off, pull fuse 203 or disconnect the valve connector to get a permanent open valve.
Just to add - there is no real issue with pulling this fuse while the car is running so you can be sure of the flap position. The load through that fuse will be minimal (close to zero while the valve is static) so the chance of a shock is low.

Pulling a fuse is electrically the same as the fuse 'popping' which is exactly what they are designed to do and the car system is designed to deal with that.

Just be aware there will be other high-current loads on that fuse panel, so take care and use the fuse-puller.
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      01-24-2019, 11:55 AM   #75
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So I think the default position is open until power is applied to the circuit. I peaked inside my exhaust pipe with a light and could visually see the flap open. I then unplugged the connector and plugged in part# 18302411427 and started the car, the valve stayed open (obviously). The plug cover has a resistor inside of it and I assume it "tricks" the computer to thinking the flap is operational.
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      01-24-2019, 12:22 PM   #76
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Can`t wait to hear to see if it`s as simple as pulling fuse 203 and that there are no adverse effects.
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      01-24-2019, 12:25 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kozumasbullitt View Post
So I think the default position is open until power is applied to the circuit. I peaked inside my exhaust pipe with a light and could visually see the flap open. I then unplugged the connector and plugged in part# 18302411427 and started the car, the valve stayed open (obviously). The plug cover has a resistor inside of it and I assume it "tricks" the computer to thinking the flap is operational.
Makes sense, if the BDC is just measuring the resistance across the servo motor as proof the servo is operational, then this will work.

Did you get chance to get a close up photo of the resistor? I'd be interested to see the value and the pins (then I can get one for £0.10 from RS components!).
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      01-24-2019, 12:51 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvestr View Post
Can`t wait to hear to see if it`s as simple as pulling fuse 203 and that there are no adverse effects.
I haven't seen any suggestion anywhere that failure of the module with the flap open in any way adversely affects the engine. The tech docs state it's done purely for noise reduction when idle and low speed.

Quote:
The exhaust flap is integrated within the rear silencer. The exhaust flap reduces the noise level when the engine is idle and when the engine speed is close to idle. The exhaust flap guarantees active noise control and reduces the output by approximately 8 dB.
In fact the document state the only adverse effects occur if the flap fails closed (over pressure), or half open (resonance).

Quote:
If the exhaust flap is defective the exhaust system will emit a hissing noise a high engine speeds when it is closed. If the exhaust flap is defective and partially open a humming noise will be generated at idle.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/g...tem/1VncDbzsg2
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      01-24-2019, 02:28 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersebbo View Post
Makes sense, if the BDC is just measuring the resistance across the servo motor as proof the servo is operational, then this will work.

Did you get chance to get a close up photo of the resistor? I'd be interested to see the value and the pins (then I can get one for £0.10 from RS components!).
The resistor is blacked out but I ordered a spare and can OHM it out for you when it comes in.
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      01-24-2019, 02:41 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kozumasbullitt View Post
The resistor is blacked out but I ordered a spare and can OHM it out for you when it comes in.
Thanks! I would appreciate it.
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      01-25-2019, 02:14 AM   #81
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Pulled fuses F203 (Open Flap) and F218 (Disable ASD) this morning. No adverse effects.

Love the sound now. No head-pounding ASD drone in Sport mode, just pure sexy engine noise. It's really how the car should have been configured from stock, you get lovely raw noise at low speed acceleration and a nearly silent cabin at cruise speed.

The fuse panel is under the right rear trunk side panel. The panel lifts out and up easily with the handle, then underneath there is a pad of sound dampening material. There are two circular clips on the rear edge of this, use a flat bladed screwdriver to pop the middle pin out of each clip, then the clips remove easily without any damage. The material is also attached at the top but I couldn't see any way of easily removing this, so just fold the material diagonally up out the way towards the front of the cabin.

Note that the F218 (ASD) mod only works with the Harmon Kardon top hifi.
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      01-28-2019, 09:22 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersebbo View Post
Thanks! I would appreciate it.
2.2K OHMs

Pins 2 and 4.


Calling this pin #1:



Resistor position:

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      02-05-2019, 01:46 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersebbo View Post
Pulled fuses F203 (Open Flap) and F218 (Disable ASD) this morning. No adverse effects.

Love the sound now. No head-pounding ASD drone in Sport mode, just pure sexy engine noise. It's really how the car should have been configured from stock, you get lovely raw noise at low speed acceleration and a nearly silent cabin at cruise speed.

The fuse panel is under the right rear trunk side panel. The panel lifts out and up easily with the handle, then underneath there is a pad of sound dampening material. There are two circular clips on the rear edge of this, use a flat bladed screwdriver to pop the middle pin out of each clip, then the clips remove easily without any damage. The material is also attached at the top but I couldn't see any way of easily removing this, so just fold the material diagonally up out the way towards the front of the cabin.

Note that the F218 (ASD) mod only works with the Harmon Kardon top hifi.
Sweet! Followed your instructions and it worked. Love the cold start! I'm so glad the drone sound is gone. Thanks all!
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      02-07-2019, 11:30 PM   #84
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Anyone else here pull the fuse recently? Does it still stand that the car needs to be driven around in sport mode for 10-15 minutes and then pull the fuse? Or can I just go out to the garage and pull it one morning and it will have defaulted to open?
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      02-08-2019, 03:27 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicagofan00 View Post
Anyone else here pull the fuse recently? Does it still stand that the car needs to be driven around in sport mode for 10-15 minutes and then pull the fuse? Or can I just go out to the garage and pull it one morning and it will have defaulted to open?
Look in your tailpipe to see if it is open or closed.
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      02-08-2019, 03:45 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicagofan00 View Post
Anyone else here pull the fuse recently? Does it still stand that the car needs to be driven around in sport mode for 10-15 minutes and then pull the fuse? Or can I just go out to the garage and pull it one morning and it will have defaulted to open?
It is my belief that the flap defaults to open when the engine is switched off. I think you should be good to go.

In any case it is easy to check, just pull the fuse and start the car, it's pretty easy to see/feel if exhaust gas is coming out of the left pipe.
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      02-08-2019, 03:46 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kozumasbullitt View Post
2.2K OHMs

Pins 2 and 4.


Calling this pin #1:



Resistor position:

Thanks very much!

Studying the wiring charts to work out if there is an easier place to insert this fuse rather than under the vehicle.
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      02-08-2019, 04:00 AM   #88
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I think this connector is reverse numbered, meaning the resistor is actually between pins 1 and 3. This would make sense as pin 4 is n/c.

Name:  connector.JPG
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Size:  36.3 KB

That means it's between switched 12v and the PWM signal wire from the DME.

Name:  diagram.JPG
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Size:  31.7 KB

That PWM is wired straight back to the engine compartment, so the only other place you could jumper it would be at the DME connector, which is not going to be easy.

Seems under the car is best if you want to do this.
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