[darrylo]

Originally Posted by RCtennis3811

I believe the iPhone 8, X, and XS can only fast charge when using USB PD, which only comes with certain types of USB type C outlets. The X3 uses the older style USB type A.

Yes, you have to go to USB C to get anything higher than 12W. Apple only supports these charging rates with type A ports:

• 12W (2.4A). Charger needs to support the Apple charging protocol on D+/D-.
  
  
• 10W (2A). Charger needs to support the Apple charging protocol on D+/D-.
  
  
• 5W (1A). This is what's used if the charger does not support the Apple charging protocol on D+/D-. This is the case with the X3 USB ports, as well as the cheap USB cigarette lighter port charger that everyone gets (even though android devices can supposedly draw 12W/2.4A on one port).
  
  
• 2.5W (0.5A). Nothing modern uses this. AFAIK, only the ancient iPods used this.

If you have Apple devices, here is a good flush-fit charger for USB type A connectors. If you want to save a little money, amazon also has a nice deal on a 2-pack.

I'm still looking for a good USB C solution.

[teaston]

Originally Posted by RCtennis3811

I believe the iPhone 8, X, and XS can only fast charge when using USB PD, which only comes with certain types of USB type C outlets. The X3 uses the older style USB type A.

Oh I see, is that why the new 3 Series, X5 & 8 Series have USB C ports?

[m235hou]

Originally Posted by darrylo

Yes, you have to go to USB C to get anything higher than 12W. Apple only supports these charging rates with type A ports:

• 12W (2.4A). Charger needs to support the Apple charging protocol on D+/D-.
  
  
• 10W (2A). Charger needs to support the Apple charging protocol on D+/D-.
  
  
• 5W (1A). This is what's used if the charger does not support the Apple charging protocol on D+/D-. This is the case with the X3 USB ports, as well as the cheap USB cigarette lighter port charger that everyone gets (even though android devices can supposedly draw 12W/2.4A on one port).
  
  
• 2.5W (0.5A). Nothing modern uses this. AFAIK, only the ancient iPods used this.

If you have Apple devices, here is a good flush-fit charger for USB type A connectors. If you want to save a little money, amazon also has a nice deal on a 2-pack.

I'm still looking for a good USB C solution.

Here's a good adaptor for usb-c

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZHKF4I..._Rq9oCbQE8WCX0

[nogren]

Originally Posted by darrylo

Yes, you have to go to USB C to get anything higher than 12W. Apple only supports these charging rates with type A ports:

• 12W (2.4A). Charger needs to support the Apple charging protocol on D+/D-.
  
  
• 10W (2A). Charger needs to support the Apple charging protocol on D+/D-.
  
  
• 5W (1A). This is what's used if the charger does not support the Apple charging protocol on D+/D-. This is the case with the X3 USB ports, as well as the cheap USB cigarette lighter port charger that everyone gets (even though android devices can supposedly draw 12W/2.4A on one port).
  
  
• 2.5W (0.5A). Nothing modern uses this. AFAIK, only the ancient iPods used this.

If you have Apple devices, here is a good flush-fit charger for USB type A connectors. If you want to save a little money, amazon also has a nice deal on a 2-pack.

I'm still looking for a good USB C solution.

Strange that I get 7.5W from the USB port under the front sliding cover then. Must be a 1.5A limit and support for Apple devices added there.
The Aukey cig plug give me higher current, about 12W, and the included BMW branded cig plug gives 5W.

All tested using the same USB tester, Exibel MFI cable, and a thirsty iPhone XR at 40% charge.

Perhaps it got something to do with build date? (Sept 2018)

[Rhidium]

I'll have to try this on the US version to see if it's similar results. I just ordered a tester for myself.. Amazon is taking a lot of my money this month.

[supersebbo]

It might be build date related. I have noticed the wireless charging pad on my 2019 model is very good (which is in contradiction to most people's previous experience here). It charges my iPhone 8 at about 1% every 2-3 mins.

I don't have a tester to verify the USB however... though it does look like a cool gadget and I do love cool gadgets... so next time I have some Amazon vouchers, I'll probably get one!

[MechX3M40i]

Originally Posted by titomi

I discovered that through the app I can unlock the car, honk, turn the headlights on, but cannot locked the vehicle - although the app says it locked it. Makes me wonder, how reliable the app is in giving remote information about the car

If your App has the option of remote locking the car, but it did not happen in reality, then the malfunction could be an issue with the server and I would suggest you try again. If it fails repeatedly, then an email to BMW genius and see if they can correct that remotely before wasting a trip back to dealer. Good luck.

[MechX3M40i]

Originally Posted by BatMeoW

You can put HUD in demo mode by going in Display Settings -> HUD and checking/unchecking the HUD Display 4 times. I saw this the first time when in a car that was on display at a mall (before I bought it). It's a neat feature that comes handy when you want to show this to a friend who does not have an experience with the HUD in BMW.

Good to know! There is also a demo video about HUD that you can download as part of your Operation manual App, and you can show those videos on your iPad or smart phones.

By the way, nice moniker and avatar!

[HampshireUK]

I wish the area that the seat belts retracts to in the front was covered in a softer material to stop the passenger one knocking, unless you ensure it’s twisted correctly.

Anyone covered these areas in Alcantara ?

[titomi]

Originally Posted by HampshireUK

I wish the area that the seat belts retracts to in the front was covered in a softer material to stop the passenger one knocking, unless you ensure it's twisted correctly.

Anyone covered these areas in Alcantara ?

Try this, that helped me.

Originally Posted by skier219

Mine rattled from the passenger seatbelt too, and I simply used the clip on the belt to force the buckle to sit higher where it would not rattle. You could also use adhesive felt material to remedy this if you need to let the buckle sit lower.

From Creaks and rattles? thread.

[darrylo]

Originally Posted by nogren

Perhaps it got something to do with build date? (Sept 2018)

Interesting. Mine is early April 2018. Newtis doesn't show any part changes, also.

[SROC3]

Originally Posted by titomi

Try this, that helped me.



From Creaks and rattles? thread.

or just get some felt stickys and place it there.

[SROC3]

I discovered that the pull-down cover over over the cup holders is a great place to put your glasses/shades (on top of).

I discovered that the "Adaptive" suspension setting works really well.

I discovered that I like "sport Individual" a lot better than "Comfort." (Everything "sport" or "sport plus" & transmission set to "comfort")

I discovered that Logic 7 works better ON than OFF.
Here are my HK EQ settings - https://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1572720

I discovered that my Lane Keep Assist doesn't work....LAME. I turned it off so I wouldn't have to see the green light on the left side of the center console. It's annoying.

[Rhidium]

Originally Posted by SROC3

I discovered that the pull-down cover over over the cup holders is a great place to put your glasses/shades (on top of).

I discovered that the "Adaptive" suspension setting works really well.

I discovered that I like "sport Individual" a lot better than "Comfort." (Everything "sport" or "sport plus" & transmission set to "comfort")

I discovered that Logic 7 works better ON than OFF.
Here are my HK EQ settings - https://x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1572720

I discovered that my Lane Keep Assist doesn't work....LAME. I turned it off so I wouldn't have to see the green light on the left side of the center console. It's annoying.

Your lane assist doesn't work? Mine works fine. I use it all the time.. though sometimes it like to lock on and track the car instead of the lines.. so if they are a bad driver.. you are a bad driver.

[supersebbo]

Originally Posted by SROC3

I discovered that my Lane Keep Assist doesn't work....LAME. I turned it off so I wouldn't have to see the green light on the left side of the center console. It's annoying.

Same!! I was under the impression it was supposed to rumble the steering wheel if you cross the center line, it does not do this, nor does the light ever change from green. How old is your car?

[Rhidium]

Originally Posted by supersebbo

Same!! I was under the impression it was supposed to rumble the steering wheel if you cross the center line, it does not do this, nor does the light ever change from green. How old is your car?

I think your talking about Lane Departure Warning. He's talking about Lane Keep Assist (DA+). My Lane Keep Assist kinda of keeps me in.. depending on the road conditions it can read.. but the Lane Departure Warning I don't think I've ever heard it go off. So I'd say Lane Departure Warning possibly sucks.. but then again I haven't been going over lines that often. (crossed over bike lane before so shouldn't that have set it off?)

[darrylo]

Originally Posted by Rhidium

.. but the Lane Departure Warning I don't think I've ever heard it go off.

There is no audible alert for LDW. It's a steering wheel vibration that many people can't feel or have a hard time feeling.

[Rhidium]

Originally Posted by darrylo

There is no audible alert for LDW. It's a steering wheel vibration that many people can't feel or have a hard time feeling.

I have felt push back in the wheel before.. when my Lane Keep Assist was off. Possibly that was LDW then.

[titomi]

Originally Posted by supersebbo

Same!! I was under the impression it was supposed to rumble the steering wheel if you cross the center line, it does not do this, nor does the light ever change from green. How old is your car?

be aware - LKA (active steering to keep you in lane) s different than LDW (departure warning, wheel vibration when lane line crossed without indicating with stalk). LKA is part of DA+ and LDW is in DA.

[darrylo]

Originally Posted by Rhidium

I have felt push back in the wheel before.. when my Lane Keep Assist was off. Possibly that was LDW then.

Probably. On mine, it's a very subtle thing, and can easily go unnoticed. To me, it feels like a slight stiffening of the steering wheel, but LKA is off.

[nogren]

It's only when you have DA+ you can also have steering intervention for LDW. Otherwise it's just a steering wheel vibration to warn you, that even when set to maximum level of vibration (in iDrive), is quite subtle. And for some people with earlier builds, there was a design flaw in the steering wheel, so that there was only some noise from the vibrator, but no vibrations.

If the green LDW symbol is lit, you have the right speed for the system to warn you (it won't help for city speeds usually). Check your manual for you country specific speeds.

[MechX3M40i]

Originally Posted by darrylo

There is no audible alert for LDW. It's a steering wheel vibration that many people can't feel or have a hard time feeling.

The severity of vibration triggered by Lane Departure warning can be adjusted through iDrive. For me, I just need to learn and remember how it feels at the beginning so I can tell the difference between this and normal steering wheel feedback from the road.