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      10-08-2018, 06:23 PM   #1
StrayCatNOR
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Replace rear brake pads and sensor

I know how to do this, done it before on different cars. And I will use youtube to doublecheck before I start.
But I have a very important question.
I am unsure of which size of the pads.
I have search and I find different ones. My x3 is an xdrive 20D 2012 model with e-brake.
And is it just ONE sensor for the brakes?
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      10-08-2018, 06:35 PM   #2
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Yes only one sensor, at least on mine
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      10-08-2018, 09:37 PM   #3
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BMW brakes sensors setup is L-Front and R-Rear on all their cars.

If you want to double-check the part number for brakes pads, etc. put the last 7 of your car's VIN in here http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select and you can locate the components.

You already have experience with the job, but you might check this site for future DIY work procedures; The BMW TIS provides install procedure, look here https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
again, input your car's VIN info then drill down in the brakes.

Good Luck/Bill

Last edited by Wgosma; 10-08-2018 at 11:41 PM..
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      10-09-2018, 08:54 AM   #4
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Except M cars which use 2 front and right rear sensors.
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      10-09-2018, 09:07 PM   #5
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Brake sensor location

Our X3 has sensor passenger rear
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      10-24-2018, 03:03 PM   #6
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Did replace pads on both rear calipers and changed the sensor successfully.
Reset the brakes pads on board computer also went ok.
Did press the brake pedal 5 times so it got hard before starting engine.
BUT my brakes feel mushy when driving.
I did not bleed the brakes.

I have changed brake pads on my other cars. Never had to bleed them, except when i replaced the calipers.

Any suggestions?
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      10-24-2018, 06:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StrayCatNOR View Post
Did replace pads on both rear calipers and changed the sensor successfully.
Reset the brakes pads on board computer also went ok.
Did press the brake pedal 5 times so it got hard before starting engine.
BUT my brakes feel mushy when driving.
I did not bleed the brakes.

I have changed brake pads on my other cars. Never had to bleed them, except when i replaced the calipers.

Any suggestions?
No bleed necessary.

Did you check the fluid level before and after? Sometimes people will fill up the fluid incorrectly, and when you put new pads the fluid overflows.

But my first thought was really pads needing to be beded in.
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      10-24-2018, 07:52 PM   #8
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I am uncertain what you mean by "beded in".
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      10-24-2018, 07:56 PM   #9
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      10-24-2018, 08:14 PM   #10
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For a car driven on the street it generally takes 150-200 miles of driving to get the brakes bedded in - after that the brakes will provide best stopping power going forward (in time, not 'direction');Pad/rotor friction is optimized, pedal feel may firm up a bit.

Try to brake moderately, no panic type stops during bedding in miles.
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      10-29-2018, 11:24 AM   #11
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I havent done any panic brake yet. Driving normal or more carefully now.
When I push the brakes, it feel like its starting at the normal point, but its not enough pressure before it goes further in. It goes almost all in. There has not been any leakage.

I followed this vid
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      10-29-2018, 02:34 PM   #12
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If you didn't trip the sensors, you don't need to replace them and just wasted $80.

The brake life service estimator in iDrive is generated by driving style not actual pad wear. The sensor is there as a failsafe so if the computer calculated wrong you'll wear the tip of the sensor off tripping the "you need to change your brake pads now" light.
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      10-30-2018, 02:46 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riick View Post
If you didn't trip the sensors, you don't need to replace them and just wasted $80.

The brake life service estimator in iDrive is generated by driving style not actual pad wear. The sensor is there as a failsafe so if the computer calculated wrong you'll wear the tip of the sensor off tripping the "you need to change your brake pads now" light.
The pads was indeed worn down to the minimum and the sensor was activated normally.
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      10-30-2018, 08:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riick View Post
If you didn't trip the sensors, you don't need to replace them and just wasted $80.

The brake life service estimator in iDrive is generated by driving style not actual pad wear. The sensor is there as a failsafe so if the computer calculated wrong you'll wear the tip of the sensor off tripping the "you need to change your brake pads now" light.
This is not the case on the newer F series cars. On the E series it was a simple trip sensor, but on the F series they started using a resistive sensor that measure pad thickness under 2 or 3mm remaining pad life. If the sensor starts to get worn at all it needs to be replaced now or the pad service indicator will not be able to be reset.
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      10-30-2018, 09:07 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subieworx View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riick View Post
If you didn't trip the sensors, you don't need to replace them and just wasted $80.

The brake life service estimator in iDrive is generated by driving style not actual pad wear. The sensor is there as a failsafe so if the computer calculated wrong you'll wear the tip of the sensor off tripping the "you need to change your brake pads now" light.
This is not the case on the newer F series cars. On the E series it was a simple trip sensor, but on the F series they started using a resistive sensor that measure pad thickness under 2 or 3mm remaining pad life. If the sensor starts to get worn at all it needs to be replaced now or the pad service indicator will not be able to be reset.
Coming from old E39 to F25 recently- this is good info that I was not aware of- thanks for clarification.
Bill
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      10-30-2018, 02:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
Coming from old E39 to F25 recently- this is good info that I was not aware of- thanks for clarification.
Bill
So even tho I did not see any leakage when I replaced both rear pads, it had gotten air
Inside the system.
After driving after install the new pads, the pedal had excessive travel. I drove the car for some days to see if it got better. It didnt.

Today I power bleeded the calipers, all 4. No special order.
I started on the back since it was there I changed the pads.
Did see small bubbles only on the right rear caliper.
While I hade the power bleeder stil on the car, I pumped the brakes 4-5 times, trying to feel
If its got better. It was little better, but then I saw bubbles coming from the fluid reservoir.
I pumped a few times more, then it was clear. Then I released the pumped up air in the power bleeder.

Put all 4 wheels on the car. Now its completly normal!
Next time I change pads, I'm gonna bleed the calipers aswell
Thanks guys
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      10-30-2018, 02:51 PM   #17
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Glad it's working properly. If you never cracked a bleeder open when you changed the pads it seems a bit odd to me that air was entrapped simply by pushing the caliper piston 'in' so you could install new pads, tho I suppose that is what may have occurred.

One thing you might try next time you do brakes - pads and/or rotors - is to attach clear tubing (and feed lose end into plastic bottle, etc.) to the caliper bleed port and crack that bleed valve open a bit right before you push the caliper piston. That way there is no fluid pressure being pushed back thru the system into the main reservoir. The result is twofold: (1) no change in fluid level in reservoir and (2) it lessens the force required to push the piston.

Good luck/Bill
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Last edited by Wgosma; 10-30-2018 at 02:58 PM.. Reason: add pic
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      10-30-2018, 03:03 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgosma View Post
Glad it's working properly. If you never cracked a bleeder open when you changed the pads it seems a bit odd to me that air was entrapped simply by pushing the caliper piston 'in' so you could install new pads, tho I suppose that is what may have occurred.

One thing you might try next time you do brakes - pads and/or rotors - is to attach clear tubing (and feed lose end into plastic bottle, etc.) to the caliper bleed port and crack that bleed valve open a bit right before you push the caliper piston. That way there is no fluid pressure being pushed back thru the system into the main reservoir. The result is twofold: (1) no change in fluid level in reservoir and (2) it lessens the force required to push the piston.

Good luck/Bill
Thats a great advice. Thanks Bill. 👍
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      10-30-2018, 09:46 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subieworx View Post
This is not the case on the newer F series cars. On the E series it was a simple trip sensor, but on the F series they started using a resistive sensor that measure pad thickness under 2 or 3mm remaining pad life. If the sensor starts to get worn at all it needs to be replaced now or the pad service indicator will not be able to be reset.
Yes, if you didn't trip the sensor, exactly like I said.
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      11-03-2018, 04:41 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subieworx View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riick View Post
If you didn't trip the sensors, you don't need to replace them and just wasted $80.

The brake life service estimator in iDrive is generated by driving style not actual pad wear. The sensor is there as a failsafe so if the computer calculated wrong you'll wear the tip of the sensor off tripping the "you need to change your brake pads now" light.
This is not the case on the newer F series cars. On the E series it was a simple trip sensor, but on the F series they started using a resistive sensor that measure pad thickness under 2 or 3mm remaining pad life. If the sensor starts to get worn at all it needs to be replaced now or the pad service indicator will not be able to be reset.
Do you have the technical documentation as source for this?
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