[COM40]

Originally Posted by abbike18

TLDR:

All of the 'VDC1' parameters are set at 400, whereas the VDC2 are set at 900. So VDC2 = Sport and VDC1 = Comfort. I changed all the VDC2 values to 1100.

Then I went for a drive, and you can see the last plot with the 1100ma target current. Much more dampening applied from the data, and felt firmer as well. Felt flatter in corners, and like it had less understeer.

Does that mean you could go the other way as well? I.e. reduce VDC1 for less damping/more comfort on rough roads.

I wonder if modifying these values significantly from the factory setting has an impact on shock longevity.

[abbike18]

Originally Posted by COM40

Does that mean you could go the other way as well? I.e. reduce VDC1 for less damping/more comfort on rough roads.

I wonder if modifying these values significantly from the factory setting has an impact on shock longevity.

I didn't try going the other way, but that's an interesting thought and worth trying! Let us know what you find.

The only longevity concern that I could think of is heat. Increasing the damping means the oil is being forced through a smaller hole, which increases heat of the oil. I don't think it would be that dramatic though.

[COM40]

Originally Posted by abbike18

I didn't try going the other way, but that's an interesting thought and worth trying! Let us know what you find.

The only longevity concern that I could think of is heat. Increasing the damping means the oil is being forced through a smaller hole, which increases heat of the oil. I don't think it would be that dramatic though.

The problem is the car is good enough factory I'm not particularly motivated. But if get bored one day I might give it a shot.

Do you think the amperage target/damping curve is roughly linear? I.e. in your case did adjusting the sport setting from 900 to 1100 feel like it got ~20% stiffer?

[abbike18]

Originally Posted by COM40

The problem is the car is good enough factory I'm not particularly motivated. But if get bored one day I might give it a shot.

Do you think the amperage target/damping curve is roughly linear? I.e. in your case did adjusting the sport setting from 900 to 1100 feel like it got ~20% stiffer?

Maybe less than linear. The 20% increase didn't feel like 20% more damping. Which probably makes sense because a setting of 0 is more than 0 damping. It was def noticeable though.

I think where the limit lies is in the fact that you are just turning up the knob with those levels. The logic for when to increase the current remains the same. That's the added benefit of the Dinan Shockware - they change the actual algorithm as well. But in the absence of that offering, this is pretty good. Especially for $0!

[prototyp]

Originally Posted by abbike18

TLDR:
Code your VDC module fields AusgabeSollstromVA_Zug_VDC2, AusgabeSollstromVA_Druck_VDC2, AusgabeSollstromHA_Zug_VDC2, AusgabeSollstromHA_Druck_VDC2 to a value of 1100 (from 900), or even higher if you want, to stiffen the sport setting of your adaptive suspension.

This is such an unlock, thank you. It's been a question I've had since I got my X3... Great work digging into it, great research. I'm stuck at "Android-only' for now (mac and ios-based), but stoked that it seems possible...

[abbike18]

Originally Posted by prototyp

This is such an unlock, thank you. It's been a question I've had since I got my X3... Great work digging into it, great research. I'm stuck at Android-only for now, but stoked that it seems possible...

I did it with an Android using Bimmergeeks ProTool.

[ASAP]

Originally Posted by abbike18

TLDR:
Code your VDC module fields AusgabeSollstromVA_Zug_VDC2, AusgabeSollstromVA_Druck_VDC2, AusgabeSollstromHA_Zug_VDC2, AusgabeSollstromHA_Druck_VDC2 to a value of 1100 (from 900), or even higher if you want, to stiffen the sport setting of your adaptive suspension.

Long Version:
After Dinan released the springs for our car, I was curious if they would be working on a Shockwave software upgrade. This upgrade essentially tunes the adaptive damping algorithm. Turns out they aren't, so naturally I tried to figure out what I could do myself.

I did some logging on the adaptive damper valve in our car, and found that it seemed that higher currents led to a stiffer shock. Look at the "comfort" mode and "sport mode 900ma target" plots below. That is the same road driven with the same aggressiveness. It's clear visually as well as from the average current that sport mode has more current.

I did some research, and found that historically the BMW EDC system was the opposite - no current was stiff and more current was softer. Hmmm...so I found a press release saying that Tenneco is the supplier for BMW X3: https://www.businesswire.com/news/ho...hicle-Platform

It is their CVSAe platform, so I scoured around for an explanation on how they work. Found this video:

Check out the 2 minute mark - 1.6amps for sports driving and 0.29 amps for comfort. Brilliant - exactly what I was seeing in the data.

So I looked at the VDC module, and it turns out you can increase the current target (but it is still capped at 1.6 amps) for the EDC system with the following coding parameters:
AusgabeSollstromVA_VDC1
AusgabeSollstromVA_Zug_VDC2
AusgabeSollstromVA_Druck_VDC2
AusgabeSollstromHA_VDC1
AusgabeSollstromHA_Zug_VDC2
AusgabeSollstromHA_Druck_VDC2

All of the 'VDC1' parameters are set at 400, whereas the VDC2 are set at 900. So VDC2 = Sport and VDC1 = Comfort. I changed all the VDC2 values to 1100.

Then I went for a drive, and you can see the last plot with the 1100ma target current. Much more dampening applied from the data, and felt firmer as well. Felt flatter in corners, and like it had less understeer.

I used Bimmergeeks ProTool for all the logging, investigation and coding: https://www.bimmergeeks.net/protool

I found a specific engineering reference in German wrt Druck and Zug, seems to be compression/rebound, respectively. Which might make sense: https://www.proz.com/kudoz/german-to...zug-druck.html

VA seems to be front, where HA seems to be rear: https://www.air-suspension-parts.de/...-1-F20-M-140-i

Anyone else want to try and comment on what it does for them?

this is interesting to say the least... can BC expert mode do this? I would set it at X3M stiffness lol

[abbike18]

Originally Posted by ASAP

this is interesting to say the least... can BC expert mode do this? I would set it at X3M stiffness lol

I tired to get BC to do it, and it doesn't seem to allow access to the VDC module.

You can sure stiffen things up, but obviously recognize that the actual dampers are different on the M version, so it won't be exactly the same. But I've got mine about as stuff as I would actually want it, set at 1300 (0514) all around on sport mode.

[ASAP]

Originally Posted by abbike18

I tired to get BC to do it, and it doesn't seem to allow access to the VDC module.

You can sure stiffen things up, but obviously recognize that the actual dampers are different on the M version, so it won't be exactly the same. But I've got mine about as stuff as I would actually want it, set at 1300 (0514) all around on sport mode.

Yes, I am well aware... its an entirely different car... hmm... wish I still had Esys or INPA from back in the day.

[abbike18]

I installed the X3M rear strut brace a few days ago.

First picture is the required parts:
Rear strut brace, 51718077347. I got mine from eBay, used off a crashed car for $190.
Left and right brackets, 33308077349/350. I had to order these from Germany, and they are required for the install. They replace parts on the M40i that are smaller and don't have the bottom screw holes/mounting area for the actual strut brace.
Rear subframe mounting bolts (2x), 33326760340. The BMW instructions say to renew these screws. I don't always renew when the BMW instructions say to, but the torque on these is 100nm plus 90 degrees and they are major structural bolts, so I replaced them.
Strut Brace to brackets (4x), 51718082205. You need these, there is no equivalent on the M40i. Torque is 38nm.
Strut brace to chassis bolts (8x), 07149390155. These are optional. There is an equivalent on the M40i chassis, but what comes on our cars are class 8.8 and the X3M uses class 10.9 bolts. Also, the torque on the M40i is 25nm and on the X3M is 38nm. So I decided to upgrade these bolts given the increased stress the brace will see.

Install is pretty straight forward and obvious. You do have to remove the torsion link (torque on the big bolts is 100nm plus 90 degrees). I did have to make one small modification to the heat shielding to get the brace to fit through, you can see it in the second picture. A little tin snip action and it was all done.

Driving impressions - well first off the sunroof doesn't make a creak anymore every time I back out of my driveway and off the curb. So it is definitely adding some rigidity. Drive wise yes the back end feels tighter and more rigid, possibly making the car feel more balanced as the rear wheels are more where they would be expected to be. Keep in mind I am heavily tuned, turbo upgrade and with the locking diff. I haven't really sent it yet, but if I have thoughts on it will comment here.

[mattsheng]

Originally Posted by abbike18

I installed the X3M rear strut brace a few days ago.

First picture is the required parts:
Rear strut brace, 51718077347. I got mine from eBay, used off a crashed car for $190.
Left and right brackets, 33308077349/350. I had to order these from Germany, and they are required for the install. They replace parts on the M40i that are smaller and don't have the bottom screw holes/mounting area for the actual strut brace.
Rear subframe mounting bolts (2x), 33326760340. The BMW instructions say to renew these screws. I don't always renew when the BMW instructions say to, but the torque on these is 100nm plus 90 degrees and they are major structural bolts, so I replaced them.
Strut Brace to brackets (4x), 51718082205. You need these, there is no equivalent on the M40i. Torque is 38nm.
Strut brace to chassis bolts (8x), 07149390155. These are optional. There is an equivalent on the M40i chassis, but what comes on our cars are class 8.8 and the X3M uses class 10.9 bolts. Also, the torque on the M40i is 25nm and on the X3M is 38nm. So I decided to upgrade these bolts given the increased stress the brace will see.

Install is pretty straight forward and obvious. You do have to remove the torsion link (torque on the big bolts is 100nm plus 90 degrees). I did have to make one small modification to the heat shielding to get the brace to fit through, you can see it in the second picture. A little tin snip action and it was all done.

Driving impressions - well first off the sunroof doesn't make a creak anymore every time I back out of my driveway and off the curb. So it [...]

I was thinking about doing this as well. My sunroof makes a popping sound every morning when driving over/off ramp. Maybe this can help with that.

[dinan5m3]

Originally Posted by abbike18

I installed the X3M rear strut brace a few days ago.

First picture is the required parts:

Left and right brackets, 33308077349/350. I had to order these from Germany, and they are required for the install. They replace parts on the M40i that are smaller and don't have the bottom screw holes/mounting area for the actual strut brace.

Great, ever-growing mod backburner...




I'm sure it is, but from these pictures, the #1 bolts position seem bit off between g01 and f97...

So, renew bolt #3's

[abbike18]

Originally Posted by dinan5m3

Great, ever-growing mod backburner...




I'm sure it is, but from these pictures, the #1 bolts position seem bit off between g01 and f97...

So, renew bolt #3's

#1 bolts are exactly the same location. Otherwise this mod wouldn't have worked.

Technically #1 bolts are also high torque, but I reused them because a failure in #1 bolts still keeps the sub frame on the car, but a failure in #3 bolt and your subframe is flapping in the breeze.

[dinan5m3]

Thinking some more about this logistically,

Originally Posted by abbike18

Strut Brace to brackets (4x), 51718082205. You need these, there is no equivalent on the M40i. Torque is 38nm.

Strut brace to chassis bolts (8x), 07149390155. These are optional. There is an equivalent on the M40i chassis, but what comes on our cars are class 8.8 and the X3M uses class 10.9 bolts. Also, the torque on the M40i is 25nm and on the X3M is 38nm. So I decided to upgrade these bolts given the increased stress the brace will see.

38nm, is that correct? Or, am i reading all wrong from the document?

The 10.9 M8 bolts, are 28mm versus 25mm on g01 8.8 M8 bolts. Observation that the extra 3mm is needed due to the extra thickness of the f97's rear strut?

Originally Posted by abbike18

I did have to make one small modification to the heat shielding to get the brace to fit through, you can see it in the second picture. A little tin snip action and it was all done.

I'm guessing the f97 rear strut just can't be placed "below" the fuel tank heat insulation without the need for snipping. But even with that snipping looks like the fuel tank plastic cover in that area would screw not to the heat shield but to the rear strut.

Almost tempted to just go with f97 heatshield, but ...

Lol, had to look up what that mean by angle of attack after the torque. Looks like need to pick up a breaker bar.

[abbike18]

Originally Posted by dinan5m3

38nm, is that correct? Or, am i reading all wrong from the document?

The 10.9 M8 bolts, are 28mm versus 25mm on g01 8.8 M8 bolts. Observation that the extra 3mm is needed due to the extra thickness of the f97's rear strut?

Yes that's correct. It definitely felt low to me too, but it was 50% more than the M40i. The 3mm seemed like it wasn't need - the threaded collar in the body wasn't that long. For me it was more about the increased yield strength. The torque shouldn't matter too much because the primary force will be shear, not compression or tension.

Originally Posted by dinan5m3

I'm guessing the f97 rear strut just can't be placed "below" the fuel tank heat insulation without the need for snipping. But even with that snipping looks like the fuel tank plastic cover in that area would screw not to the heat shield but to the rear strut.

Almost tempted to just go with f97 heatshield, but ...

Lol, had to look up what that mean by angle of attack after the torque. Looks like need to pick up a breaker bar.

Oh nice find in the pictures. It looks like the F97 heat shield is molded slightly differently to just go above. I also double checked and the p/n is different between the G01 and F97.

I will say that the 100nm plus 90 degrees took some muscle, even with a larger bar, when I was on my back under the car.

[dinan5m3]

Urgh, this place is bad for my wallet...

Ordered (some optional parts but ...)

Strut, rear 51-71-8-077-347
Hex bolt with washer 07-14-9-390-155 QTY 8
Hex bolt 51-71-8-082-205 QTY 4

Push rod left 33-308-0-773-49
Push rod right 33-30-8-077-349
Torx-bolt with washer 33-32-6-760-340 QTY 2
Multi-purpose bolt ASA 07-14-6-878-392 QTY 6
Expanding nut 07-14-7-306-224 QTY 4

Combination Allen bolt 07-14-7-413-212 QTY 7

[dinan5m3]

Originally Posted by abbike18

I will say that the 100nm plus 90 degrees took some muscle, even with a larger bar, when I was on my back under the car.

Even with a larger bar? What size bar do i need to get?

[JJJBlackSaph86]

Originally Posted by abbike18

I installed the X3M rear strut brace a few days ago.

First picture is the required parts:
Rear strut brace, 51718077347. I got mine from eBay, used off a crashed car for $190.
Left and right brackets, 33308077349/350. I had to order these from Germany, and they are required for the install. They replace parts on the M40i that are smaller and don't have the bottom screw holes/mounting area for the actual strut brace.
Rear subframe mounting bolts (2x), 33326760340. The BMW instructions say to renew these screws. I don't always renew when the BMW instructions say to, but the torque on these is 100nm plus 90 degrees and they are major structural bolts, so I replaced them.
Strut Brace to brackets (4x), 51718082205. You need these, there is no equivalent on the M40i. Torque is 38nm.
Strut brace to chassis bolts (8x), 07149390155. These are optional. There is an equivalent on the M40i chassis, but what comes on our cars are class 8.8 and the X3M uses class 10.9 bolts. Also, the torque on the M40i is 25nm and on the X3M is 38nm. So I decided to upgrade these bolts given the increased stress the brace will see.

Install is pretty straight forward and obvious. You do have to remove the torsion link (torque on the big bolts is 100nm plus 90 degrees). I did have to make one small modification to the heat shielding to get the brace to fit through, you can see it in the second picture. A little tin snip action and it was all done.

Driving impressions - well first off the sunroof doesn't make a creak anymore every time I back out of my driveway and off the curb. So it [...]

Holy shit I just did this as well yesterday lol

Anybody who is interested in this conversion please make sure to buy the bolts listed. It’ll save you a big headache.

Pics attached showing before and after.

[TonM3]

Originally Posted by abbike18

I installed the X3M rear strut brace a few days ago.

First picture is the required parts:
Rear strut brace, 51718077347. I got mine from eBay, used off a crashed car for $190.
Left and right brackets, 33308077349/350. I had to order these from Germany, and they are required for the install. They replace parts on the M40i that are smaller and don't have the bottom screw holes/mounting area for the actual strut brace.
Rear subframe mounting bolts (2x), 33326760340. The BMW instructions say to renew these screws. I don't always renew when the BMW instructions say to, but the torque on these is 100nm plus 90 degrees and they are major structural bolts, so I replaced them.
Strut Brace to brackets (4x), 51718082205. You need these, there is no equivalent on the M40i. Torque is 38nm.
Strut brace to chassis bolts (8x), 07149390155. These are optional. There is an equivalent on the M40i chassis, but what comes on our cars are class 8.8 and the X3M uses class 10.9 bolts. Also, the torque on the M40i is 25nm and on the X3M is 38nm. So I decided to upgrade these bolts given the increased stress the brace will see.

Install is pretty straight forward and obvious. You do have to remove the torsion link (torque on the big bolts is 100nm plus 90 degrees). I did have to make one small modification to the heat shielding to get the brace to fit through, you can see it in the second picture. A little tin snip action and it was all done.

Driving impressions - well first off the sunroof doesn't make a creak anymore every time I back out of my driveway and off the curb. So it [...]

This is what I was looking for.
Is there any reason these would not fit a 2022 M40i?

[abbike18]

Originally Posted by TonM3

This is what I was looking for.
Is there any reason these would not fit a 2022 M40i?

Not that I can think of...I would be surprised if they updated those parts as part of the LCI

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by cky

I have installed the following and I'd say most of them improved the handling but in different %:
1. MSS lowering springs
2. Spacers
3. Lighter wheels and PS4S tires
4. X3M/ X4M sway bars & lower strut bar
5. CPM strut plate: http://cpmtech.jp/product/?cat=1#%EF%BC%9CCSRP-B401
6. Dinan tension strut ball joint (G20 one works on on my MY21 G02): https://www.dinancars.com/products/s...arts/D280-0022

I would say spacer, X3M/X4M lower strut bar, CPM strut plate and dinan kit improved the steering handling feeling quite a lot

Good to know cross compatibility of g2x tension strut monoball works for G01/02 tension strut.

Has anyone had success in retrofitting monoballs into Lower Control Arms for G01/02 ?

[Burr001]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

Good to know cross compatibility of g2x tension strut monoball works for G01/02 tension strut.

Has anyone had success in retrofitting monoballs into Lower Control Arms for G01/02 ?

I used these since it is installed already with new ball joints.
https://syncrodesignworks.com/produc...nt-thrust-arms