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      07-18-2020, 05:34 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by wxm View Post
Thanks for the information. I am about to order the Foxwell and do the diff and transfer fluid change.
Completed the front diff and transfer case fluid change. Try to do the transfer case reset using the Foxwell NT-530. But just could not find the option. For those of you successfully reset/recalibrate the transfer case using the foxwell, do you mind the share the menu option? Appreciate it.
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      07-18-2020, 06:07 PM   #68
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Completed the front diff.
did you skip doing the rear diff?
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      07-18-2020, 09:15 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by evilchargerfan View Post
did you skip doing the rear diff?
Yes, I did not want to use the same pump that used for the transfer case (to avoid cross contamination). Many members here reported rear was not too bad. I guess it can wait until I get another pump.

Anyway, I think I did find the option “initialize transfer electronics” or something like that.
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      07-20-2020, 03:58 PM   #70
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I used the same pump and hose for the front/rear diffs (used the same fluid).

Started at the front, where the hose only touched clean / new fluid.

Then after doing rears, it was pretty darn dirty.

After I was finished for the day, I trashed the hose, and cleaned the pump with rubbing alcohol. I'll attempt the Transfer case soon
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      07-23-2020, 04:12 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxm View Post
Completed the front diff and transfer case fluid change. Try to do the transfer case reset using the Foxwell NT-530. But just could not find the option. For those of you successfully reset/recalibrate the transfer case using the foxwell, do you mind the share the menu option? Appreciate it.

Main Menu -> BMW
Select A Vehicle -> BMW
SmartVIN -> follow prompts/select your car
Main Groups -> Service
Service Function -> Drive
Drive -> Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit
Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit -> Repair
Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit -> [4] = Initialization Of Transfer Box Control Unit
Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit -> "calibration necessary - start engine" -> Start Engine -> OK
Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit -> WAIT
Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit -> "unitialization procedure completed" -> OK
Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit -> "end service function" -> OK






















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      07-23-2020, 04:14 PM   #72
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*NOTE*
I lost track of where these 2 steps go, but they were not critical.

Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit -> "to check initilization switch on terminal 15" -> OK
Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit -> "coding matches vehicle data" -> IIRC, just wait for next prompt









optional step, I kept my car on charger while doing this









*IMPORTANT*
upon first start up, car will throw CEL's. I cleared it using the following steps:

Main Menu -> BMW
Select A Vehicle -> BMW
SmartVIN -> follow prompts/select your car
Main Groups -> Diagnosis
Quick Scan
Erase
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      07-23-2020, 05:05 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilchargerfan View Post
Main Menu -> BMW
Select A Vehicle -> BMW
SmartVIN -> follow prompts/select your car
Main Groups -> Service
Service Function -> Drive
Drive -> Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit
Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit -> Repair
Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit -> [4] = Initialization Of Transfer Box Control Unit
Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit -> "calibration necessary - start engine" -> Start Engine -> OK
Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit -> WAIT
Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit -> "unitialization procedure completed" -> OK
Transfer Box Transmission Control Unit -> "end service function" -> OK


With ISTA+ there are separate functions for "Repair" and "Transfer Box (VTG) Calibrate". AFAIK, "Repair" is when you're replacing the transfer box or major components, while "Calibrate" is when changed fluid or other minor repairs. I only performed the "Calibrate" and didn't have to clear any errors.

Just realized, since this is a diff fluid change thread, we should have made these posts in the "DIY: Let's change our transfer case fluid" thread.

Name:  ista transfer case.JPG
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Last edited by pungo; 07-23-2020 at 06:55 PM..
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      07-26-2020, 01:46 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxm View Post
Yes, I did not want to use the same pump that used for the transfer case (to avoid cross contamination). Many members here reported rear was not too bad. I guess it can wait until I get another pump.
So picked up another fluid transfer pump from Harbor Freight. It is like $5. Went home and replaced the rear diff oil. Like everyone else's experience, the oil from the rear diff was not as bad.
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      08-21-2020, 09:19 PM   #75
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Not a big fan of condition-based-maintenance and lifetime fluids. If you are only going to keep a car for 3-6 years and get a new one when your lease runs out or you have finished paying off the loan, then there should be minimal service visits until that point in time. They do not base maintenance cycles upon owners who may keep a car for 10-15 years or where it faces "severe service".

The definition of severe service can include just about every type of driving we do at some point in our lives. Towing a trailer, temperature extremes (hot or cold), dusty environments, etc... Almost every car should be considered severe service unless it was a hangar queen and was plugged in to a float charger except for weekends or Friday nights out on the town.

BMW is a business, they make money from selling cars, the dealers make some more money by maintaining cars, either under (warranty) repairs where the manufacturer eats some of the cost of from non-warranty where the owner is footing the bill. They do not over-design for cars to last too far beyond that warranty period or the first owner. It is not profitable to manufacture anything that lasts forever.

It is interesting to see how the //M cars have a more stringent maintenance schedule than the non //M variants. They are still essentially the same vehicles and if you look at the common wear components it just does not make sense to declare something a lifetime fluid in a baseline car, but to do regular fluid changes in the //M variant.

Personally I own cars for a long time; The one that the X3 is replacing as my daily driver was a 2005 C350-4Matic with 180,000 miles. It had finally reached the point of dramatically increasing maintenance costs on things that would of been considered lifetime. I expect that this one too will be a +10 year ownership (I am holding out for Star Trek transporter technology). To get to that point without horrible issues I will be doing more than the bare minimum of BMW maintenance.
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      08-22-2020, 09:07 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by Tishers View Post
Not a big fan of condition-based-maintenance and lifetime fluids. If you are only going to keep a car for 3-6 years and get a new one when your lease runs out or you have finished paying off the loan, then there should be minimal service visits until that point in time. They do not base maintenance cycles upon owners who may keep a car for 10-15 years or where it faces "severe service".

The definition of severe service can include just about every type of driving we do at some point in our lives. Towing a trailer, temperature extremes (hot or cold), dusty environments, etc... Almost every car should be considered severe service unless it was a hangar queen and was plugged in to a float charger except for weekends or Friday nights out on the town.

BMW is a business, they make money from selling cars, the dealers make some more money by maintaining cars, either under (warranty) repairs where the manufacturer eats some of the cost of from non-warranty where the owner is footing the bill. They do not over-design for cars to last too far beyond that warranty period or the first owner. It is not profitable to manufacture anything that lasts forever.

It is interesting to see how the //M cars have a more stringent maintenance schedule than the non //M variants. They are still essentially the same vehicles and if you look at the common wear components it just does not make sense to declare something a lifetime fluid in a baseline car, but to do regular fluid changes in the //M variant.

Personally I own cars for a long time; The one that the X3 is replacing as my daily driver was a 2005 C350-4Matic with 180,000 miles. It had finally reached the point of dramatically increasing maintenance costs on things that would of been considered lifetime. I expect that this one too will be a +10 year ownership (I am holding out for Star Trek transporter technology). To get to that point without horrible issues I will be doing more than the bare minimum of BMW maintenance.
Interesting opinions . . .
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      01-15-2022, 11:04 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Sure, it's possible. But then I would counter with, why just change the specification for the front diff and not both front and rear diffs altogether?

The other interesting thing is the part number that shows up in BMW ETK/RealOEM.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0932

If you click on Item 14, it lists the following as the front diff oil for your VIN:

83222413511
Hypoid axle oil G2
0,5L
BMW Group

Oddly enough, it doesn't say any history on BMW Synthetics OSP 83 22 9 407 768 used in the past and it being switched out to Hypoid axle oil G2 which it normally would if a fluid spec/part number was changed/updated.
Ok revisiting my thread here as it's time to change my differential fluids already again. So I have 75000 on the Redline 75w90 Fluid on both the front and rear with no issues. However I'm pleased to announce that I have found that Redline has named the expensive front BMW Hypoid Axle Oil G2 by number on their 75w85 fluid on their data sheets along with what is called for the rear (after 07/2011)!

So as of model year 07/2011 the Rear diff fluids recommended are BMW:
83 22 2 413 512 Hypoid Axle Oil G3 (Fuchs Titan EG 4218)
83 22 2 295 532 Hypoid Axle Oil G1 (BOT448)





And the Front diff fluid BMW recommends:
83 22 2 413 511 Hypoid Axle Oil G2

Which is also covered by the same:



https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/f..._PROD_INFO.pdf

Last edited by ThomasR; 01-15-2022 at 02:33 PM..
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      01-15-2022, 12:20 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by ThomasR View Post
So I have 750000 on the Redline 75w90 Fluid on both the front and rear with no issues. /tech/75W85_GO_PROD_INFO.pdf
I'd say you got your money's worth out of that fluid and vehicle, that has to be a record
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      01-15-2022, 02:34 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by pungo View Post
I'd say you got your money's worth out of that fluid and vehicle, that has to be a record
Good catch. I fixed it.
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      01-22-2022, 08:51 PM   #80
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This is a great thread. I'll be replacing the front diff fluid on my 35i at 36.5K miles because I was really dumb and ended up draining my front diff when attempting to change the engine oil today. I knew I was expecting a 17 mm drain plug but grabbed my 14 mm allen and proceeded to crack it loose and open her up... I smelled it as soon as it started flowing but I dropped the drain plug into my oil drain pan and about 5 seconds later it was all out. It was pretty dirty so I'm not too mad.

I do have some Redline 75w90 GL 5 that I incorrectly bought for my E46's rear diff last time I changed it that I'm going to pump into it temporarily while I wait for the right stuff so I can drive it.

I guess a bonus is that I noticed an oil leak around a hard line going into the turbo and dripping down on to my passenger side axle shaft and belly pan so yay?
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      01-23-2022, 10:29 AM   #81
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Trans part of service

There were several comments throughout this thread that temperature was the key for the transmission fill.

Certainly that is, but getting the fluid level correct, trans fluid temp in range and vehicle running in PARK. That ensure the fluid in the trans is at the right temp and density (not viscosity) and that the pump, torq converter and other components are full. Please do your research, if you don't fill in this fashion the trans is underfilled and could cause you problems down the road.

I did mine last a year ago and I pumped in over another bottle. If you remove the fill plug before the drain plug, you should get over a litre of fluid out; if you don't then it is not full enough.

The procedure on ZF's website is the correct one to follow, as well as the change interval.

https://aftermarket.zf.com/sea/en/af...on-oil-change/
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