[Hemertwv]

Hello, I've done lots of front hubs in the past but never on this car, had to have some front end work done and dropped it off at mechanic with a brand new tinken front wheel hub, complete with new bolts.

He phones me and says he can't do it as he doesn't have the puller.

I would have thought the procedure would be
1. remove the centre bolt
2. Remove the 4 mounting bolts from the back
3. Pull the hub, beat on a bit till you get a gap and then pry it off

Installation is reverse except making sure axle and hub line up when installing and tightening

Am I wrong is there a puller needed or are these just like other hubs just the different spline on back of hub rather than center

Thanks in advance
WALTER

[heticor]

here is a video about it

[Hemertwv]

Thank you but the x3 bearing is different it doesn't use the centre axle spline it uses the rear face spline

[heticor]

[Hemertwv]

Awesome thanks just what I thought

[383vett]

I just did my 2012 X3 35i left and right front hubs. It's very easy with no puller required. After the axle nut is removed and the 4 bolts in back, it just falls off. Find a new mechanic or do it yourself.

[chrispitude]

In case anyone needs the torque values for the F25/F26 front hubs:

Hub mounting bolts, BMW-style:
80 Nm + 90° (31206855906, M12x1.5 coarse-thread, Torx 60)

Hub mounting bolts, Shaeffler-style:
20 Nm + 120 Nm + 90° (M12x1.25 fine-thread, Torx Plus TP60)

Axle bolt w/ compression spring (31206795249, M16x1.5):
210 Nm + 90°

[chrispitude]

I completed this repair. Here are some notes that might be helpful to others.

If needed, the Neiko 10083A kit provides the T60 and TP60 bits and the Neiko 10288A kit provides the 17mm male hex bit.

Make sure both front wheels are off the ground so the steering wheel and axle can be turned freely.

Two of the four hub bolts are inconveniently near suspension bits. A flex-head breaker bar and torque wrench helps get past the suspension bits and out of the wheel well with usable rotation. Having the steering wheel turned close to (but not at!) full lock also helps get the right angle on them.

After the axle bolt is removed, you can push inward on the axle's spline face and reposition it to keep the boot from interfering with the bolts.

The four hub bolts are recessed into the carrier just enough to make them difficult to access without an extension. But even my shortest extension pushed me inconveniently close to the suspension bits. I strongly recommend getting a 1/2" mini-extension, which would make access much easier.

Getting the extra 90 degrees on the hub bolts is a pain if you don't have a full lift and can't see what you're doing from underneath the car. The four bolt ends are visible from the exterior; you can make a paint marker witness mark to help clock the 90 degrees.

When seating the new hub's splines on the axle splines, I found it easiest to turn the axle by hand, then watch for the hub to turn. You can also pull the axle away from the hub a bit to feel the splines skip; this will help you feel for engagement. Make sure the steering wheel is straight so there's no steering angle on the axle.

When tightening the new axle nut, make sure the small rotor retaining screw is not installed. It's not meant to handle that torque, and the lug bolts won't hold the rotor tightly enough to keep it from seeing that force.

Having occasional access to a helper is nice. They can turn the steering wheel left and right to help with hub bolt R&R, and they can press on the brake pedal to hold the rotor during axle bolt R&R.

FCP Euro's video for the F30 also applies to the F25/F26, but see the torques I posted above.