[RAKLAW]

Originally Posted by Kevin_The_Clean1

I'm glad this still works for the 2021 models.

So I have a silly question. If the console switch is on and the light is green are not the valves open all the time if preset open in M1 and M2 settings

[Sarg33]

Originally Posted by RAKLAW

So I have a silly question. If the console switch is on and the light is green are not the valves open all the time if preset open in M1 and M2 settings

Short answer no.

Long answer...read the thread.

[Bestle]

A more expensive option perhaps, but what about something like this?

https://asr-component.de/bmw/49-1051...1_mit_schieber

[Kozumasbullitt]

Originally Posted by Bestle

A more expensive option perhaps, but what about something like this?

https://asr-component.de/bmw/49-1051...1_mit_schieber

I bought a flap controller from Dahler and it works the same as the one in the link provided, I just paid a whole lot more. For what it's worth, Dahler's communication and customer service is amazing.

I programmed the controller buttons to my mirror buttons so I can open the valves and return them to stock programming from the Homelink.

The install is straight plug and play but securing the controller box in the inside of the cargo bay takes a lot of time and effort. I had to remove nearly every panel and insert to get to the wire passthrough.

[LimeRock]

I’ve had an eisenmann mid pipe on the car for a few months now, and it really accentuates flap behavior. That said, the flaps are all over the place. Even in sport plus, at around 4k RPM and at heavy throttle, the flaps aren’t fully open. It creates this raspy / rattle sound. If I get on the throttle earlier in the RPM range, they will stay open and that sound doesn’t exist.

I’m going to verify by pulling the fuse, but I really wish flaps were a simple on/off ordeal. Makes me hesitant to get aftermarket axle-back solutions, as this sound / behavior still may exist.

[Kozumasbullitt]

Originally Posted by LimeRock

I’ve had an eisenmann mid pipe on the car for a few months now, and it really accentuates flap behavior. That said, the flaps are all over the place. Even in sport plus, at around 4k RPM and at heavy throttle, the flaps aren’t fully open. It creates this raspy / rattle sound. If I get on the throttle earlier in the RPM range, they will stay open and that sound doesn’t exist.

I’m going to verify by pulling the fuse, but I really wish flaps were a simple on/off ordeal. Makes me hesitant to get aftermarket axle-back solutions, as this sound / behavior still may exist.

I am on the latest rev of the Dahler controller and I have it set to always open by default. It's a game changer how much better the car sounds with the flaps open and I have the option to go to the stock configuration at the push of a button.

[LimeRock]

Originally Posted by Kozumasbullitt

I am on the latest rev of the Dahler controller and I have it set to always open by default. It's a game changer how much better the car sounds with the flaps open and I have the option to go to the stock configuration at the push of a button.

Exactly what I'm looking for…how involved of a process is the install for that?

[Kozumasbullitt]

Originally Posted by LimeRock

Exactly what I'm looking for…how involved of a process is the install for that?

Well..... it's literally plug and play but the complications of install is routing the connectors from the controller box placed in the cargo area to the exhaust flaps under the car.

It took me an hour or so each time. The longest part of the install is taking all the cargo panels out to access the pass-through grommets.

I also have the gen 1 controller on-hand still. The difference between the two controllers is the memory function on the upgraded controller. The last used flap state, open or stock, will be the default mode. The gen 1 defaults to stock in start up and you need to push the open button to open the flaps.

[S1ngl3t0n]

I installed yesterday the exhaust valve controller from PEEM Solutions in Germany:
https://www.peem-solutions.de/exhaust_valve_controller

The advantage is that you can open and close the valves by pressing the RES button for 1.5 seconds on the steering wheel.

The disadvantage is that it is not that easy to install. You have to pinout some cables of the BDC module and so on. So it's really not easy to do the installation.

Here a video of the functionality:

And some impressions of the installation

[Kozumasbullitt]

The beauty of the Dahler controller is it is technically plug and play. I have the control buttons programmed to my mirror homelink buttons.

[brs0123]

So just to ensure that the flaps are fully open when pulling 203 fuse.
1. start car
2. place into sport +
3. do I need to Rev while in neutral to get them 100% open?
4. If yes, does this mean that when the engine settles down the flaps will stay open or will they close.
5. If they close, I guess I would need someone to rev the engine while in neutral then at the same time I pull the fuse?

thanks in advance

[Kozumasbullitt]

Originally Posted by brs0123

So just to ensure that the flaps are fully open when pulling 203 fuse.
1. start car
2. place into sport +
3. do I need to Rev while in neutral to get them 100% open?
4. If yes, does this mean that when the engine settles down the flaps will stay open or will they close.
5. If they close, I guess I would need someone to rev the engine while in neutral then at the same time I pull the fuse?

thanks in advance

Different people have different results. Before I bought a controller, I had to drive hard in Sport + mode to ensure the flaps were open before pulling the fuse. I hated having the flaps always open because sometimes it's nice to quite things down on the freeway or in the early AM/late evening.

[kzg1969]

Originally Posted by brs0123

So just to ensure that the flaps are fully open when pulling 203 fuse.
1. start car
2. place into sport +
3. do I need to Rev while in neutral to get them 100% open?
4. If yes, does this mean that when the engine settles down the flaps will stay open or will they close.
5. If they close, I guess I would need someone to rev the engine while in neutral then at the same time I pull the fuse?

thanks in advance

if you do this on cold start, then you dont need to rev it

[Sniper260687]

Does this still apply on a 2020 x3m?

I tried all the steps for the fuse route, however the valves still open and closes when pushing the exhaust button, is this the correct fuse? trunk 7.5 red?

Am i missing something?

Trying this on Dinan exhaust

20210730_154047 by Diego Pinto, on Flickr

[LloydP]

Originally Posted by Kozumasbullitt

The beauty of the Dahler controller is it is technically plug and play. I have the control buttons programmed to my mirror homelink buttons.

Did you order directly from Dahler?

[Kozumasbullitt]

Originally Posted by LloydP

Did you order directly from Dahler?

Yes.

[King_Vo]

Originally Posted by ONLYA6

I replied with this info in another post but figured I would start a new thread since I've seen the topic arise a few times.

To keep the valves open:

- Start and put in Sport +
- Blip throttle to open
- Crawl under and unplug both actuators

They will remain in their last position until hooked back up.

You can buy a connector plug (or just seal the end up with tape) to keep dirt from getting it it, then just zip tie harness out of the way.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/18302411427/

UPDATED:

Found plug blanks for the actuators

https://www.wildwext.com/search?cont...h&s=7549032-02

I've done this on my M2 and X3M

I just did this on my 21' X3MC & it worked great! Taped up the plugs & used a zip tie to tuck the remaining wires from hanging down. It doesn't void any warranty does it? It hasn't been to the dealership yet, only have 2,300 miles on it. Just wanted to make sure before I take it into the dealership one day.

[Bimmersurfer]

Originally Posted by King_Vo

I just did this on my 21' X3MC & it worked great! Taped up the plugs & used a zip tie to tuck the remaining wires from hanging down. It doesn't void any warranty does it? It hasn't been to the dealership yet, only have 2,300 miles on it. Just wanted to make sure before I take it into the dealership one day.

just to add some more information here, i had a check engine light come on last year, i had posted this before. I forgot that i had unplugged the flapper valve solenoids and went to the dealer. they said that it looked like the car had been modded and would not cover it under warranty to do the diagnostic. I left the dealer with the check engine light still on and had to pay for 1hr of labor, i was quite ticked. i recently had another check engine light on and before going to another dealer i plugged the flappers back in and the check engine light cleared on its own the next time i started the car. As long as the car is all ok the flappers can be left unplugged. if you get a check engine light or the drivetrain trouble message, the car runs some sort of test and detects the flapper valves are not doing what they are supposed to be doing. Plug them back in then get the car diagnosed before unplugging again.

[King_Vo]

Originally Posted by X4dude

just to add some more information here, i had a check engine light come on last year, i had posted this before. I forgot that i had unplugged the flapper valve solenoids and went to the dealer. they said that it looked like the car had been modded and would not cover it under warranty to do the diagnostic. I left the dealer with the check engine light still on and had to pay for 1hr of labor, i was quite ticked. i recently had another check engine light on and before going to another dealer i plugged the flappers back in and the check engine light cleared on its own the next time i started the car. As long as the car is all ok the flappers can be left unplugged. if you get a check engine light or the drivetrain trouble message, the car runs some sort of test and detects the flapper valves are not doing what they are supposed to be doing. Plug them back in then get the car diagnosed before unplugging again.

Okay great, thank you for this info.

[MMnut]

I did a simple mod, everything stayed plugged in as the way from factory so no worry about engine light as such, and the valves are fully open all the time. Enjoy the sound

[Gsavarese]

I backed my car into garage and for the laugh revved the engine in sport plus to hear the echo. I gotta say the competition exhaust cracks and pops pretty good

But I noticed something odd playing with the M settings. My car is a 21 competition. I have M1 set in sport +/sport/comfort. Sound control is ON. If you put sound control OFF you can hear valves in the exhaust close. The exhaust is more tame. Set it ON and you hear the valve open and the crackles reappear. So the sound control in M settings seems to control the exhaust valves

Moral of the story for max exhaust volume make sure your Sound control in M setting is ON.

[Vale5846]

Originally Posted by aliwtsn

In the boot, right hand side. Lift out the small compartment and then behind the sound proof material

Are the fuses the same for a 2022